Show us the status of your 14/14A project

[rockitdoc]

Originally Posted by MED

I permanently attached my wheel pant leg fairings to the wheelpants, splitting them along the separation line between the front and rear pieces. Makes it much easier to remove the wheel pants. Something to consider.

That's a great idea! Do you have photos?
Thanks,
S

[MED]

Before and after. Note the little flap installed to close the gap before painting.

[MED]

Another thing to consider.

[rockitdoc]

Originally Posted by MED

Another thing to consider.

Yes. That hole is needing closure. Im considering a complete cover.

[MED]

Originally Posted by rockitdoc

Yes. That hole is needing closure. Im considering a complete cover.

You need to leave easy access for a towbar. I put the SS washer to protect the paint. I also extended the bolts to make it easier to align with the towbar. Inside, I permanently attached the aluminum pyramid things to the brackets with countersunk screws. This allows you to remove the rear portion of the nose wheel fairing by simply removing the bolts and sliding it aft - after removing the screws holding the front and rear pieces together, of course.

[rockitdoc]

Originally Posted by MED

Another thing to consider.

I was thinking of making the hole just big enough to access the hex key bolt by closing it in with glass and epoxy. Yes. No?

[MED]

Originally Posted by rockitdoc

I was thinking of making the hole just big enough to access the hex key bolt by closing it in with glass and epoxy. Yes. No?

If you are going to paint the epoxy, you will likely damage the paint eventually. That is why I put the SS washers. Make sure to allow enough clearance for a towbar, too.

[rockitdoc]

Laid on the SW epoxy primer surfacer today. Filling sand scratches and pinholes next, sanding, more epoxy, then PAINT!

[rockitdoc]

The #80 sand scratches from shaping the epoxy/micro and pinholes in the factory fiberglass don't get filled with the SW epoxy primer surfacer very well, so I used some 3M putty from the body shop to fill those. Tomorrow, I will sand the putty off and shoot the second epoxy coat. #320 sanding of that coat should get the bits ready for paint....I hope.

[rockitdoc]

Sanded the first epoxy primer and spot filler and applied the second, and last, epoxy primer coat. Tomorrow, sand the primer with P320 to smooth out the orange peel, finish sanding the oil door bodywork, prime the oil door cowl surround.

The gray SW primer looks just like the original fiberglass, so not real satisfying, but knowing how many hours went into the bodywork and what's under the primer, it feels pretty good. Since the paint will be white, I didn't want to use the SW white primer. I find it makes determining paint coverage easier if the primer and paint are not the same color.