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RV-9a: Cal’s build

Baffles coming along

Lots of trimming. Front baffle ramps were a little perplexing initially. Looked on web for pictures of other’s build on the “baffling baffles”. A little hard to figure out how much to trim.
 

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Trimming mostly done

I over-trimmed the front ramps as I thought the cowling is straight across- it isn’t. I might build new ramps but will plow ahead with my patches. They mainly support the air seal material. I did add a cross angle brace to the oil cooler corner as I can see how it flexes a lot with engine shake. Thanks Vlad and Vic who have posted a lot on this (or as Bill Repucci said “cracks happen”).
 

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Baffles almost done

Threading the tensioner rods was fun.
 

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Thanks Jerry

I should’ve done your mod. But I didn’t, so am using plan B mod:
(It has rubber tubing attached to absorb vibrations and not be quite so rigid of a brace). Thanks for your tip. Should have listened to Vlad off the bat. 😩
Cal
 

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Also added

Added small brace to also help. Easy add. See over time how it does. Bolts are long enough to add after the fact.
 

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On my two RV-8s the the oil cooler mount baffle cracked at around 350 to 400 hours. My current RV-8 has a brace from the engine to the aft baffle, and that did not prevent the cracking from occurring. On both RV-8s we replaced the cracked parts and added a skookum angle there (a technical term!). The cracks have not reappeared on either RV-8, and my first RV-8 now has about 2300 hours on it and my current RV-8 has 1165 hours.

Cracks:

i-g7bmgBz-XL.jpg


Fix:

i-3Gx5HZR-XL.jpg



I'm surprised that Van's has failed to address this well known issue that many have suffered from.
 
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Hey Carl

Thanks so much for the great photos- this seems like the best solution-agree the plans could be updated. Thanks again.
 
Thanks so much for the great photos- this seems like the best solution-agree the plans could be updated. Thanks again.

You're welcome.

BTW, in looking at your photos I don't see any washers at each end of the oil cooler flange spacer tubes to provide a bearing surface. May want to add those. See the bottom photo in my post above and you will see one.
 
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Another plans update would be helpful

Agree Carl. I debated this but then followed the plans. See attached:
 

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CHT and EGT probes

Pretty fun attaching these guys.
 

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Installed red cube

Man, what a controversy. Oh well. At least up hill. Will add heat shield to exhaust tube. I don’t use the boost pump much, so this location should be ok (pre- mechanical pump). So much better than the old days of dip stick only fuel data. Also will add Firesleeve to added hose.
 

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Airworthiness saga

After calling two different DARs, I found out I should have registered my “plane” months ago given the standard FAA lag. I ended up paying $200 for a title company in Ok (Aerospace reports) to help expedite my aircraft. You can’t really begin the airworthiness saga without a formal registration certificate. Oh well. Now to actually finish the build (wings fully on and everything wired), and do all the pre-DAR tasks such as fuel flow testing, formal condition inspection, weight and balance, and the proper FAA forms. Not really as much fun as the actual build phase. But important, I know. Hopefully will try to get my AW approval in early June. Whether I can get phase 1 done by Oshkosh is hard to say. 😔
 
itch

Man, what a controversy. Oh well. At least up hill. Will add heat shield to exhaust tube. I don’t use the boost pump much, so this location should be ok (pre- mechanical pump). So much better than the old days of dip stick only fuel data. Also will add Firesleeve to added hose.

That red cube seems to be itching for an Adel clamp to the engine mount. That's how i did mine. Personally, I would not leave it hanging by the hoses. JMHO
 
Hey John

Thanks. I did add several step-off clamps. A broken fuel line would be major bad juju. You look close to first start too- cool.
Cal
 
Spar bottom bolts

Man. What a take down battle. The bottom four main spar bolts are tough. Very hard to torque and keep the nuts from turning when torquing the bolt head. 40 foot pounds for the main 7/16th bolts (an7). Really like my flyleds wingtip lights. So cool when they wig wag.
 

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Wing spar bolts

After reading lots of VAF posts on those pesky bottom spar bolts, I finally got torque success with a modified 5/8 crowsfoot jammed/held in place on the nut side. On the 9a the bottom bolt nuts are stuck in a small gearweld area, and most tools can’t get in. But you just have to trap the nut while you torque the bolt head side to 40 foot pounds or so.
I actually just held the crowsfoot down on the nut with my thumb, while I torqued with the other hand. You have to grind the sides of the crowsfoot to get it to slide in between the other bolts.
 

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Flap pushrod

Made the small fuselage cut for the flap pushrod- may have to adjust when all hooked up. Also finishing wingtips.
 

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Bottom spar bolts

Now doing right side. Wish I was younger. Still very hard bending over the side and head down in the gear well. An angle grinder helped a lot to thin out a cheap 5/8th wrench to trap the nut. Also a EAA teach counselor advised standoffs for my FWF wiring.
 

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DAR wanted pitot static test

Not formal and not IFR certification, but simple test of pitot/ airspeed before first flight.
 

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Bottom spar bolts

Still took on hour per bolt. Not fun. this modified tool helped a lot.
 

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Made the small fuselage cut for the flap pushrod- may have to adjust when all hooked up. Also finishing wingtips.

That’s really a nice small opening. You may have to enlarge it a little. Mine ended up maybe 4 times that size to accommodate clearance on the rod, but I assume you have a more modern prepunched kit, so your opening may a bit smaller than mine. Take it a little at a time, and don’t get too far into it until you have your flaps configured in their final place. You might end up enlarging more than you need to until the final flap configuration is set.
 
Made the small fuselage cut for the flap pushrod- may have to adjust when all hooked up. Also finishing wingtips.

That’s really a nice small opening. You may have to enlarge it a little. Mine ended up maybe 4 times that size to accommodate clearance on the rod, but I assume you have a more modern prepunched kit, so your opening may a bit smaller than mine. Take it a little at a time, and don’t get too far into it until you have your flaps configured in their final place. You might end up enlarging more than you need to until the final flap configuration is set.
 
Thanks Scott

Yes. I was being too conservative and the flap pushrod didn’t clear when hanging the flap. So a deeper hole and will trying to fit it without rubbing in full Range. Thanks for the comments. Wing looks better with flaps but harder to lean over into the cabin and do more wiring. The hole is now thumb deep- sorry about the rotozip rash- will have to finely sand and spot prime.
 

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Flyled controller in

Wiring to both wings and fuse box/ switches done. Not quite ready to try out. Still have to hookup left wingtip.
 

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Getting closer

4weeks to DAR inspection- still need to hang flaps, wire EMS (engine sensors) to G3X and put on brakes. Then the fuel flow and w/b and first engine start. Feels like the rapids.
 

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Seats and seatbelts

Seats in. Can sit in plane and daydream.
 

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Final wiring

Got seats in. Now just engine sensor wiring to the garmin system. Close to first engine start. Pretty exciting.
 

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Hey Jared

The seats are cloth, and are from classic Aero Design (they advertise on VAF splash page). I chose cloth due to lower cost and weight. They are might comfy on trial sitting so far. Their wait/ lead time is about 9 months so you do have to order ahead of time. Quite happy- they also have lots of color choices.
 
Fuel flow test

Got 27 gallons an hour on my electric pump. Hurray. You need 1.5 times full power take off fuel burn; about 16 gph on the o-360 a1a.

The first run dropped fuel all over my landing gear. Turns out I never torqued fully the line from the gascolator to the mechanical fuel pump. Oh my.

Still have to test with it’s tail tied down and nose up I climb position and repeat the test. 🤓
 

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We got oil pressure

Took several crank attempts on preoiling the pressure sensor- likely had to fill the filter first- then came gushing out sensor line. Quick connect to the kavlinko sensor and we got oil pressure- getting closer to real start. Pretty darn exciting.
 

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Still 28 gph with head up

With climb attitude I still got 28 gph. No leaks this time.
 

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Blade tracking

Got 2/16 difference on my Sensenich composite ground adjustable blade. Spec is 3/16 or less so acceptable.
 

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Bleeding (filling) the brakes

Kept making a mess until I clamped the 3/8 tube onto my squirt gun and the nylon hard tubing (same used for pitot static)
 

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Hey Mike

I like to only deal in high end tools:
 

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Aileron travel problem

My rudder and elevator and L aileron were all in spec on travel, but my R aileron was up 34 degrees, with max of 32 recommended by Vans per spec. Tech advice was a do over- drill out “bad” aileron stop and rivet in a stop with a longer leg. Not really a big deal. Thanks to my EAA chapter last night for going over my plane- lots of useful suggestions prior to DAR visit.
 

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Wingtip alignment

I found my right wingtip to be 3/8 inch lower than my aileron and flaps when all was rigged properly. I missed the memo of NOT drilling the wingtips until the flaps and ailerons are fully fitted and rigged to the chord line. As other before have done, you can dremel split the fiberglass and adjust it and reglass, you can drill out and shift/tweak it’s position and reattach, or fly and see how it behaves. I am doing the latter for now but did order a new right tip as I want a do over anyway given mild rib positioning issue on my first tip. I don’t want a heavy wing but lots of variables to this.
 

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Rpm likely off

Pmags have options for setting rpm off their electric signal. I probably did the 2 setting and it doubles actual rpm on display- will read through the manual again.
 
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G3x config

I was reading double actual rpm. Default pmags is 2 impulses per revolution- default G3x is 1 impulse per revolution. Was ten second fix under gea 24 configuration of rpm 1.
 
Canopy woes

On final assembly my front tip-up canopy lip was catching. Attempts at fixing it resulted in a thin, wavy, deformed edge- I cried a little and then trimmed it back. Then I had to add on top a thicker reinforcement aluminum strip and faired it out with lightweight epoxy. I probably went too far in gap allowed, but I am using trim rubber to compensate and give extra rain protection- I was never going to get a Lindsay award- just shooting for safe.

Should have photoed the deformed and catching front edge but I was too embarrassed and heart broken.😊
 

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Thanks Jereme!

Awaiting DAR inspection- nervous🫣
 

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Awaiting DAR inspection- nervous🫣

Eh DAR inspection was no big deal, don't sweat, sounds like most of them are very reasonable (mine even took my word that I fixed a simple "mistake/omission" of some labels).

Your data plate must be on the left side of the aircraft? ;)
 
Hurray- “airworthy”

After a long 5 hour aircraft inspection- got the magic certificate papers. Hurray. My DAR was excellent and very thorough- he had “his boss” from Seattle FAA there watching him. So yes, a little intimidating. Overall plane is ok. Thanks to all my VAF friends who have taken the time to offer suggestions and tips. Now onto phase 1 flying and engine break-in!
 

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After a long 5 hour aircraft inspection- got the magic certificate papers. Hurray. My DAR was excellent and very thorough- he had “his boss” from Seattle FAA there watching him. So yes, a little intimidating. Overall plane is ok. Thanks to all my VAF friends who have taken the time to offer suggestions and tips. Now onto phase 1 flying and engine break-in!

Heck ya dude! Congrats!

You will love flying the phase 1. They find any squawks during the inspection?
 
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