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Cylinder 3 baffling has me baffled

Sam_B

Well Known Member
Sponsor
Hi everyone, I’ve been picking away at baffling my O-360 A1A on my RV-8, and can’t seem to get the hole in the case to line up with the hole in the CB-1007B bracket.

I’ve attached a photo of the pertinent part of OP-40, which generates another question that makes it look like there is a tube ‘standoff’ between the CB-1007B and the case, though I don’t think there is.

Anyway, the real problem I’m having is that the boss for the oil pressure relief valve seems to interfere with the baffling and the corner of the CB-1007B bracket, and I can’t get the bolt hole that is pre punched in the CB-1007B bracket to line up with the threaded hole in the case. I’m off a little more than half a hole low and aft. A Google image search of Lycoming O-360s almost makes me think that my oil pressure relief boss is bigger or different than most.

Usually when something on this project seems difficult, it means that I’m doing something wrong, and usually a study of the plans and a bit of VAF research gets me pointed in the right direction. That said, I can’t find anything on here, and the rest of the cylinder 3 baffling lines up with holes, and generally fits the way one would expect, with different features of the piece lining up with stuff on the engine where it makes sense to me.

So has anyone had this issue before? If so, how did you overcome it? I could fabricate a new piece, center drill a threaded rod (I own a lathe) that I’ve screwed into the case, and then use a hole duplicator to get the bolt hole in the right spot, but I’m just wondering if I win the VAF bonehead award today. If anyone has advice, fire away, I’d like to claim this small victory before heading to Oshkosh Wednesday night.
 

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There are some small differences in the narrow deck compared th wide deck engines, baffles can be adapted to work on either. Just takes some fitting 'adjustments'. Your file is your friend here:)
If you haven't already done this - temporarily remove the oil dip stick tube to make it easier to work in there.
Grind/file the baffle plate to get around the oil reg valve, all this will be sealed with silicone later.
Don't forget to insure airflow between that #3 baffle plate and the rear of #3 cylinder. (lots of descriptions for this on VAF)

I have had to fab some of those brackets on some stubborn engine baffle installations too....
 
Thanks

Mine is a narrow deck engine, which may explain the difference in the oil relief valve from others I’ve seen. I have a plan forward now, I just question my methods and interpretation of the plans when things seem too challenging.
 
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