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Scott's RV14A: N52XL

rockitdoc

Well Known Member
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My build progress has been scattered among various threads (most recently, the RV14 Build Progress Thread) over the past 18 months. But, it was wisely suggested that I consolidate the progress in one place (here). Wish I had done it earlier, but since the EXP119 is arriving today (yeah, baby!) this thread will have a logical beginning.
 
Nose Gear Fairing Screwup

I hate to advertise my mistakes, but this might help someone else not make the same one as I.

The piano hinge that holds the nose fairing together is specified as a 0.063 hinge. That's the pin diameter, not the thickness of the hinge flange. Duh. Shoulda read the Chapter 5 stuff better describing this.

Anyway, I used a 0.125 piano hinge. Thought it would be ok, if a bit stout, but getting the big 0.125" pin into the hinge is tough as it doesn't bend easily, and needs to to be inserted.

So, I removed the 0.125 hinge, epoxied up the holes (no, they won't line up with the 0.063 hinge), did the bodywork, and assembled it correctly with the 0.063 hinge. About a 12 hour mistake, all in. Oh yeah, had to order another 0.125 piano hinge. All in all, not too bad a goof up. And, the new slenderer pin will go in and out Much easier.

Nose Gear Fairing ReRiveted.jpg

Nose Gear Fairing w:Correct Hinge.jpg

Prime and paint next....again.
 
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BIG Day Yesterday.....YIO-390-EXP243 Arrival

My Lycoming arrived!

Engine Arrives.jpg

Removed boxtops immediately to see the beauty! Haven't been this excited since I soloed!

Engine in Box.jpg

Sides and top of box removed.

Engine with Box Removed.jpg

Modified the pallet so I can roll him around the shop. But, on second thought, I might hook up a belt drive, put a seat on top and scoot around the neighborhood. Kind of a super modified, experimental Soapbox Derby car.

Engine on Roller Cart.jpg
 
Fuel Transducer Mount

One of the first things to do when starting to mount the engine is to mount the fuel flow transducer (red cube). The plans call for hose clamps and a plate with cube mounted on the intake runners. I am changing this and am not the first to do it. There has been discussion regarding the wisdom of mounting the transducer on the vibration-prone engine. The way the plans would have you do it, adds some vibration resistance through the adel clamps on the intake runners. So, my plan is to isolate the transducer, somewhat, using rubber or silicone gasket material between the transducer and bracket and between the bracket and the sump. So,to document the process, here goes.

Prototype I:
First, fabricate the support out of 2x2x1/8" AL angle to fit the two 1/4-20 tapped holes on the left side of the sump. I called Jeff Schans at Lycoming re the purpose of the 1/4-20 tapped holes in the sump. He said they are for mounting baffles or other sundry thingies that end-users might need, so they will be 'red cube' mounts for me.

Red Cube Mounting holes on Sump.jpg

Second, get some 1/8" rubber gasket material. (1/4" would provide better isolation)

Rubber Isolator Material.jpg

Third, cut #6 holes for the cube and 1/4" holes for the 1/4-20 bolts to attach bracket to tapped holes in the sump.

Fourth, put it on the engine and see what changes are needed.

Cube Mount Mockup Full.jpg

Cube Mount Mockup Side.jpg

Changes for Prototype II:
1. Get some silicone gasket material 1/4" thick to replace 1/8" rubber purchased at Ace 'Aircraft Supply' (which might degrade because of heat). 1/4" provides more isolation, too.
2. Get aircraft 1/4-20 bolts with holes in heads for safety wiring to sump.
3. Use #10 hex head bolts with holes for safety wire to secure cube to tapped holes in angle. (I countersunk the bracketI for some flat head machine screws with washers and lock nuts like the plans indicate, but the bolts can't be put in from the bottom of the bracket due to interference with intake runner.



The red Thunderbolt engine block matches the "red cube" rather nicely, don't you think? That is why I ordered the red block, of course. Those of you with grey blocks have a nice contrast, though.
 
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Wheel Pants Completed!

It took over 220 hours, but the wheel pants are finally completed and mounted on the legs. Hooray. More detail appears in the RV-14 area under "Show Us the Status..."where the bodywork is described. On to mounting the engine!

Wheel Pants Completed Front.jpg

Wheel Pants Completed Rear.jpg
 
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Air Wolf remote oil

Made a longer doubler to counter firewall flex. The one supplied by AW is prolly fine because it is about 1/3 longer than mount, but I plan to use the larger Champion filter, so extra stiffness can’t hurt.

8BF96FEA-F27D-4DA9-B02F-6C541E51F334.jpg

Sealed all bolts thru wall. Yuk. Having a partner required.

55609D87-1960-489B-9608-1696FDBA7F6E.jpg

Havent figured out how to get AN fittings at oil filter to clock in correct direction yet but havent really cranked them yet with sealant which will lube some.

4D3F2E45-7722-4A33-ABFC-C4671A442033.jpg

AW customer service has been the best. Great company. Highly recommend. The more convenient filter locAtion will make filter changes super easy and WAY less messy. Yes, it costs. Yes, the convenience, to me, is worth it. A clean engine compartment matters. And, at ~1/2 AMU compared to a 150AMU airplane, good value IMHO.
 
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Don't want to highjack this thread but for anyone having messy oil changes and can't install a remote filter I found this trick here on VAF and found it works really well. This is on a stock -390 Thunderbolt. I was surprised how easy it was to set up and oil changes are accomplished without spilling a drop. I do have experience on other airplanes with the AirWolf remote filter and they have a fantastic product.
 

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Vertical Power PPS Mount

Fabricated a mount for my PPS to firewall today. Actually, this is prototype III. A charm, I hope.

PPS Mounting Plate Rear.jpg

Anyway, there isn't much room and I wanted to mount it where the OEM contactors are mounted using the same four 1/4-28 nut plates. That way, fewer holes in the firewall and then the ground can be attached at the same place.

PPS Mounted on Firewall.jpg

The mount is 0.063" bent to create a platform, then stiffened with another 0.063". This does two things: 1) stiffens the platform and 2) makes the mount thick enough to accept countersinks for the 1/4-28 flathead machine screws that mount the platform.

I will add 1/4" thick silicone between the platform and the PPS and between the PPS and firewall to help isolate vibrations to the electronics.

Pretty happy with this, so far. Only thing I don't like about the PPS is how easy the 38 pin connector on the PPS unthreads. Gonna have to come up with a way to positively secure it. Coming loose in flight would be no bueno.

PPS Mockup Mounted on Firewall.jpg

PPS Clearance to Engine Mount.jpg
 
Panel Progress

Finally cut the holes for the two Dynon HDX1100s. Still trying to decide if I have all the switches I need on the panel. I was going to locate the baggage and panel light switches on the panel, but I think I will move them elsewhere to keep the panel as uncrowded as possible. Still thinking about it, though. If you guys see anything that is obviously missing, chime in.

Panel w:EFIS Cutout.jpg

Just when I had eliminated nearly all of the blue covered AL on my shop tables the QB Wings arrived! Time to start unpacking, inventory, and reading plans again. Nothing stopping us, now! Well, I still need one more E Mag and two EFIS screens, but that's IT!

Wings Arrived.jpg
 
Wings in Repurposed Cradles

Built the cradles for the wings out of the foam board, plywood and 2 x 4's that Van's uses to pack the QB wings. Very well packed, I might add. ABF Freight brought them with no issues. Off loaded right behind my shop.

Wings in Cradles 1.jpg

I sandwiched the foam between the plywood so the wings are cushioned on the foam. Seems to be working, so far.

Wings in Cradles 2.jpg

Ailerons and flaps in the two boxes on the wall.
 
Red Cube Mount

Here is what I finally ended up with after three prototypes.

Angle mounted with foam between sump and angle on two ¼-20 tapped holes on the port side sump. Then, red cube mounted to bracket with foam between bracket and cube.

Red Cube Mount Front.jpg

Gotchas:

Cube has to be mounted with bolts (AN3-20), washers and nuts. I suppose the bracket could be tapped so a machine screw could be attached from the top, but then safety wire would be needed, or red locktite. But, it cannot be mounted with countersunk screws from the bottom and locknuts on top because the intake runner underneath will not allow the screw to be inserted from the bottom (ask me how I know).

Cube has to be mounted far enough from the sump so the cube does not touch the drilled bolts going into the sump (otherwise, all the effort to isolate the cube is lost because of vibration from bolt heads to cube).

Red Cube MOunt Rear Closeup.jpg

The pads are fabricated from a product called Poron (https://www.stockwell.com/data-sheets/poron-4790-92-extra-soft-slow-reb.pdf). It is the most vibration absorbing stuff I could find. Used for isolating really sensitive electronics from vibes. Highly temperature resistant.

I plan to mount my Vertical Power PPS to firewall with this stuff as well.
 
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Now, it's Final

The Red Cube mount in the previous posts had issues, so today I changed it. The Poron high temperature limit is only 194F. Since the oil sump is likely to exceed this, another material had to be found. Turns out the white silicone on Adel clamps will go to 450F before bad things happen. So, I pirated some from one of my clamps. Also, since the bracket is bolted directly to the sump, any isolation material sandwiched there is of no use. But, if the Cube sits on some white silicone and washers are fabricated out the silicone, less vibration will get to the Cube through the AN3 bolts holding the cube to the bracket.....I think.

The whole reason for this exercise was to get the cube more parallel to the sump. On the EXP119 a mount atop the intake runners according to plans does not allow this and it makes for less than smooth hose alignment.

Red Cube Final MOunt.jpg
 
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P Mag Wiring

So, I finally decided I wanted the P mags wired so one switch on the panel controlled the Off-Test-On function for each P mag. This would not be difficult for someone schooled in the art of wiring. But, for me, more at home around anvils, this is intimidating. I discovered (thanks Larry) that the Honeywell 2TL1-10 DPDT switch would work for this task even though it is an On-On-On switch (which confused Mr. Flintstone, here) since I thought I needed an Off-Off-On switch. Turns out, not true. The photo shows how the switch will be wired to accomplish the Off-Test-On function.

Honeywell switches for Pmags.jpg

Basically, when down, the P-lead connects to ground, killing the P mag.
When up, the output from the VP-X circuit breakers connects to ground powering the P mags.
When in the center position, the P mag is disconnected from VP-X power and testing of the internal alternator occurs.

Here's the cartoon I came up with to explain all of this to myself next month when I forget all of this.

P Mag Wiring Sketch 2.jpg
 
Locking Honeywell TL Switches

Today I assembled my Honeywell TL switches on the panel. I wanted to be able to lock them so they wouldn't rotate. Others have figured this out (Thanks again Larry) so I gave it a try. Cut some little coupons with the locking hole so the Tls wouldn't rotate and glued them with ProSeal behind the panel. Works the charm.

Switches Front.jpg

Switches Rear.jpg

Switches Locker Closeup.jpg
 
Step by Step Switch Lock Rings Fab

The steps to getting the Honeywell switches locked in place:

Draw where the cuts will be

Switch Locker Coupons.jpg

Make sure the lock rings will fit

Switch Locker Coupons w:Lock Ring.jpg

Drill and separate

Switch Locker Coupons Separated.jpg

Cement lock rings to rear of panel with Pro Seal

Switch Locker Coupon ProSealed.jpg

Now, the Honeywells will not rotate. Not a critical issue, really, unless you are OCD, like me.
 
Best Laid Plans ....

So, I was really happy with the way the various components were fitting in behind the panel. Made foam models of all the stuff going back there, and placed the 'real' stuff where planned. All was right with the universe. Then, I decided to move one of my switches. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Turns out, this move, having not been first tested using the foam models, created interference between the moved switch and my remote USB socket. Ugh. Good news is I am getting really good at building little shelves for stuff behind the panel.

Here is the interference problem:

Switch Interfering with USB.jpg

Switch Interference with USB.jpg


And, here is the new shelf with the USB port moved back a bit so as not to block the wiring to the two panel LED dimmer switches.

Switch Interference w: USB Removed.jpg

Best laid plans....
 
Port Side Panel Completed...

Well, maybe.

Anyway, got the port side completed, I think. Until I discover something else that needs to be there.

Panel-Completed Port Side.jpg

Those Honeywell 2TL1-50's for the PMags are rather large, but I like that they are different from the other switches. Also, they lock into the center position so they can't be turned off inadvertently.

Start procedure will be:

0. Pilot EFIS on using EFIS battery. Wait for it to boot so oil and fuel pressure can be seen when start button is activated.
1. Master on
2. Alternator on
3. PMag L on
4. PMag R on
5. Fuel pump on until peaks
6. Start
7. Look for oil pressure
8. Avionics on
9. Strobes and Nav lights on
10. ELT on

I tried to get the sequence to be a left to right operation, but I like the idea of having the fuel pump switch above the throttle as part of the final approach checklist, so my right hand will have something to do during start.
 
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Fused the Ground Power Outlet

I wanted my ground power outlet on the sub panel, so I wired a 30 amp fuse in line of the circuit at the battery. Any short in the +12v line coming into the cabin will cut power.

Ground Power Plug on Subpanel.jpg

I had a 30 amp breaker on the sub panel for this task, but of course, this would not have protected the cabin from a fire, hence the fuse on the firewall.

Fuse for Ground Power Plug.jpg

Fuse for Ground Power Closeup.jpg
 
Engine Mounted Milestone!

Got the engine onto the fuse today. My 17 and 19 yo sons learning critical life skills.

Still maneuvering while attached to hoist.

Engine Mounted with Addam.jpg


Done. Torquing is all that remains! 2 hours. Start to finish. Aligning to four bolts is hardest part, but not too bad.

Engine Mounted with Adam and Bryan.jpg
 
AeroSun VX and Pulsar Installs

I am putting the AeroLEDs AeroSun and Pulsar lights on my wingtips. This requires modifying the wingtip with a larger cutout.

Wingtip Mod for AeroSunLX.jpg

Reinforcing the interior with glass and epoxy

Wingtip Mod Inside Tip.jpg

The AeroSun instructions are very detailed. However, there is one operation that is critical to getting the large triangular light to fit. That is the angle which two mounting holes need to be drilled so machine screws inserted from the outside match the threads in the AeroSuns. If the holes are drilled parallel to the face of the wingtip the screws will not line up with the threaded AeroSuns and the holes will have to be filled with epoxy and redialed. Wonder how I know this?

Wingtip Drill Angle.jpg

Once the light is roughly fitted, the gap around the light must be adequate so the light can be adjusted up and down, left and right. My gaps shown are ok, but the next light will be more even.

Wingtip AeroSun Gap to Opening.jpg

The instructions have you drill the adjustment holes first, then attach the pivot mount which is rubber mounted. I found this problematic since the pivot mount did not fit tightly against the inside of the wingtip doing it this way. So, on my second try I fitted the light inside the holes the pivot mount was tight against the inside of the tip, drilled and clecoed it, then drilled the adjustment holes from the inside out with a No. 38 drill so as not to damage the threads in the AeroSun. This method allows for the angle of the hole to be accurate enough so the machine screws will meet the threads in the AeroSuns without cross-threading.

Wingtip AeroSun Pivot Mount.jpg
 

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Let There Be LIGHT!

The AeroSun landing/taxi light and the nav/strobes roughly mounted on the new wingtips.

Wingtip AeroSun and Pulsar .jpg

I may be mistaken for some alien spacecraft on final when these are turned on!

Wingtip AeroSun and Leading Edge Light.jpg

I just hope the forward thrust of these lights doesn't lead to a stall when they are activated! Sort of reminiscent of what happened to the A10 Warthog when the gatling gun in the nose was first tested!
 
funny

The AeroSun landing/taxi light and the nav/strobes roughly mounted on the new wingtips.

View attachment 24541

I may be mistaken for some alien spacecraft on final when these are turned on!

View attachment 24542

I just hope the forward thrust of these lights doesn't lead to a stall when they are activated! Sort of reminiscent of what happened to the A10 Warthog when the gatling gun in the nose was first tested!

Yes, pushing all those photons would have an equal and opposite force.
When I tested my new retrofit LED lights in my darkened hanger I made the mistake of looking at them.
I stumbled around for a few minutes.
Daddyman
 
Wingtip Lens Fitment

I started fitting the lens on the left wingtip yesterday and found that exact fit to the fiberglass was not going to be possible. Also, I decided that using only two nut plates in the corners for attachment seemed less than robust (although many have reported highly successful installations this way).

So, I fitted four additional nutplates and filled the gaps between the wingtip and the lens with epoxy and 401. Bodywork to smooth everything will begin tomorrow.

I marked the lens while in position on the wingtip:

Wingtip Lens Fitment  Initial.jpg

Then cut it out with my SawMax:

Wingtip Lens Rough Cut.jpg

As you can see, the gap between the lens and the wingtip is rather wide.

Wingtip Lens to Tip Gap Top.jpg

After sanding the rough cut on a belt sander and recutting to fit better I mounted the six nut plates on the wingtip and taped up the wingtip and the lens to separate them from the epoxy.

Wingtips Epoxied.jpg

After epoxy sets I will proceed with bodywork tomorrow.
 

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Second Epoxy Coat Wingtips and Wiring

First sanding of the wingtips from yesterday revealed some low spots, of course, so a second coat was applied today.

Photo below shows the gap between the lens and the surrounding fiberglass filled with epoxy and 401. This gap will be completely invisible when all bodywork is completed and the lenses should fit tight to the fiberglass all around.

Wingtip First Epox Coating.jpg

The second coating of epoxy and 401 hopefully will complete the rough bodywork.

Wingtips Second Epoxy Coating.jpg

While the epoxy was setting up I did some 'loose ends' work. Finished mounting the fuse to protect the external power plug on the sub panel.

External Power Fuse.jpg

This allows me to simply raise the canopy and connect external power/battery charger to the plug on the starboard sub panel.

External Power Subpanel Plug.jpg

I also ran my shielded wires for the strobes in the wingtips and connected the Molexes.

Strobe Wires L Wing Tip.jpg

Finally, I ran the single 20 ga wire needed for my taxi lights. I am using the Van's position lights wires from the main harness for my AeroLEDs landing lights, but the Van's harness does not provide a taxi light power wire.

Taxi Light Power Wire .jpg
 
Wingtip Lens and Wiring

Put the 'final' third coat of epoxy and 401 on the wingtip. Will sand smooth tomorrow and get ready for primer/surfacer and paint.

Wingtip Lens Third Epoxy Coat.jpg

My pitot heat and strobe wires were too close to the future location of the ADAHRS module in the left wing (lower) so I rerouted them to a location along the top of the wing. Here's where they exit at the root.

Pitot Heat and Strobe Wires at L Root.jpg

Then, I assembled my first dSub female connector to the harness at the ADAHRS mount for the future ADAHRS module.

ADAHRS dSub Connector.jpg

The ADAHRS mount was already installed in my QB wing but getting the Dynon 200 ADAHRS module inserted is flummoxing me. I can't figure out how the module is secured in the mount. Any pictures of how this looks would help me a lot!

ADAHRS Mount.jpg
 
Thanks all who helped me realize how to do this

Finally, figured it out. Thanks. Easy once you know how. Right?


Assembled the roll servo in the right wing today.


Autopilot Roll Servo Installed.jpg


Also worked on the wingtips getting the webs installed and bodywork done.

Wingtip Web Riveted.jpg

Wingtip Webs Epoxied and Filled.jpg
 

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Wingtips First Primer Coat

Finished the body work on the tips today and got the first primer surfacer laid down. Tomorrow, wind permitting, I will put the second primer surfacer coat on after filling and sanding pinholes and deep #80 scratches. I love covering up the bodywork for the first time. Makes the all the effort worth it for me.

It looks like I could have set two of the nut plates' rivets deeper in the foreground tip. Funny how the photo picks up stuff I missed in person.

The lens really didn't fit the tip in the foreground very well as is evident by all the epoxy needed to fill the gap at the top of the landing light window.

Wingtips First Primer.jpg
 
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Couldn't Sleep

Had to get the glazing putty on so I could sand it off later today and lay on the second primer surfacer coating. Two coats 'should' do it, but there were a lot of deep #80 scratches from all the bodywork, so we'll see.

Wingtips First Glaze.jpg
 
...if the Cube sits on some white silicone and washers are fabricated out the silicone, less vibration will get to the Cube through the AN3 bolts holding the cube to the bracket.....I think.

Scott, if concerned with vibration you may wish to re-think this mount.

Of the six available degrees of freedom, the white silicone cushions only one, vertical, aligned with the bolt axis. I say "cushions" rather than "isolates" because vibration isolation means having some knowledge of natural frequency. In any case, there is very little vibratory motion along that axis. The silicone is something like the lifeguard at an Olympic swim race...not doing much.

The powerful forcing frequency is an angular displacement around the crank center in response to combustion events. The amplitude is a function of the radius from that center. So, three points.

One, as applied here, the aluminum angle has little stiffness or fatigue strength to resist that motion. It's a poor application of the extruded shape, and will be inclined to crack near the elbow. Remember, it is also supporting some of the hose mass, likewise vibrating.

Two, for least amplitude, shorten the radius...if possible, mount closer to the crank center.

Three, if you wish to stay with the current position, a steel bracket may be a better material choice, given aluminum has no knee in its S-N curve. A good one might be something like the sketch below, three pieces light gauge 4130 and a few minutes with a TIG machine. Forget the rubber.
.
 

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Scott, if concerned with vibration you may wish to re-think this mount.

Of the six available degrees of freedom, the white silicone cushions only one, vertical, aligned with the bolt axis. I say "cushions" rather than "isolates" because vibration isolation means having some knowledge of natural frequency. In any case, there is very little vibratory motion along that axis. The silicone is something like the lifeguard at an Olympic swim race...not doing much.

The powerful forcing frequency is an angular displacement around the crank center in response to combustion events. The amplitude is a function of the radius from that center. So, three points.

One, as applied here, the aluminum angle has little stiffness or fatigue strength to resist that motion. It's a poor application of the extruded shape, and will be inclined to crack near the elbow. Remember, it is also supporting some of the hose mass, likewise vibrating.

Two, for least amplitude, shorten the radius...if possible, mount closer to the crank center.

Three, if you wish to stay with the current position, a steel bracket may be a better material choice, given aluminum has no knee in its S-N curve. A good one might be something like the sketch below, three pieces light gauge 4130 and a few minutes with a TIG machine. Forget the rubber.
.

Thanks Dan. Excellent analysis, as usual. I agree, the AL would fatigue much faster than 4130 or probably any other steel. Steel, it is. And, no cushion.
 
Wingtips Getting Closer to Finish Line

Applied the glazing putty early this morning so I could sand it and apply the second primer surfacer coat. Tomorrow, I will sand this layer down with P320 in prep for paint.....as long as there aren't still major scratches.

Wingtips Glaze Sanded.jpg

Wingtips Second Primer Surfacer.jpg
 
Almost Paint Ready

Spent the weekend getting my BMW R90S ready for sale on Bring-a-Trailer. So, did the sanding of the second primer surfacer application this morning and filled minor pinholes and small scratches that were left from first primer surfacer app.

Wingtips will be ready for paint tomorrow, temperature and wind permitting. Then, Wed I will attach all the nut plates and lights. Depending on the quality of my painting, I will decide whether to cut and buff the paint.

Wingtip Second Primer Sanded.jpg

Wingtip Second Primer Sanded&filled.jpg
 
Tips Painted!

Another step completed. I painted the wingtips today. Conditions were good. They came out nice except for one small run which I will be able to cut and buff out in a few when the urethane has cured completely. So, tomorrow the nut plates go on and lights can be attached.

Wingtips Painted.jpg

Oh, and my 20 year-owned BMW R90S sold on Bring-a-trailer for $21,500! Third highest price paid for this model. Well worth funding for my two Dynon HDX1100's + cushion. I was a rider for 52 years, owned-restored 30+ bikes, but cell phones and texting while driving made the hobby too risky for me any longer. Impossible to defend against. A chapter ended.

R90S Right Side.jpg
 
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Wingtips Completed!

Riveted all the nut plates on this morning and attached the position/strobe and landing/taxi lights with lenses. Feels good to have this bit completed.

Wingtip Left Lights Installed.jpg
 
Wire Harness Management in Right Wing

I wanted a positive means of keeping my harness away from the aileron pushrod in the right wing where it crosses over the pushrod. So, I fabricated a 'bridge' out of 0.020" AL riveted to each web, then epoxied a wire mount onto it and zipped the harness to it. Not real elegant, but it should work.

Wire Harness 'Bridge' Inboard of Roll Servo.jpg

I also terminated all the wires for the AeroSun VX's at the tips and installed some wire mounts to keep the harness tidy in the tips.

AeroSunVX Wire Harness in Tips.jpg

Keeping the harness away from the aileron pushrod at the wing root required shrink wrapping and a wire tie.

Wire Harness at Wing Root.jpg

Then, I attached all the wires at the P-Mags.

PMag Left Wires.jpg

PMag Right Wires.jpg
 
Aileron to Bellcrank Pushrods

The ST4130 0.35 x 1/2 powder coated tube used to fabricate the aileron to bell crank pushrod was BO'd when my wings came with no indication of when the material would be available. So, I got with Online Metals and ordered a 6' stick of 4130 steel alloy. After a 5 month wait, the material got here today and the pushrods are done! I powder coated them myself so all should be good.

Aileron to Bellcrank Pushrods.jpg
 
Solution to Wires Crossing Pushrods?

I think a re-route of wires is in order. Maybe something like this with red lines indicating new servo route and blue indicating new lighting route:

Servo Wiring Right Wing.jpg

Requires larger holes to be drilled, but it eliminates any possibility of wires getting tangled in aileron pushrod. Probably a good thing.
 
Can you add a flange to the existing bridge? Won't need to be much, and if you have a structural glue like 3M's 2216 B/A or West System's g/flex, you could just glue it, with proper prep, of course. If you rivet it, 3 or 5 blind rivets are plenty.

Dave
 
Can you add a flange to the existing bridge? Won't need to be much, and if you have a structural glue like 3M's 2216 B/A or West System's g/flex, you could just glue it, with proper prep, of course. If you rivet it, 3 or 5 blind rivets are plenty.

Dave
A flange? I guess I need a picture.
 
This shows a cross-section, in blue, of what you have now. The red is a notional concept of an added flange. I expect that just one half would be fine (imagine just the left half of the red part)... you probably don't need both flanges but with my simplistic drawing program it was easier to draw than a single flange would be.

eMe9GMh.jpg


You could use .020, and if the flanges were 1/4" high, that might suffice. But I'd make them 3/8" or even 1/2" or so. And of course, you could make it thicker. Whatever you have material for.

It could be on the non-wire side of the bridge if there's room.

Dave
 
This shows a cross-section, in blue, of what you have now. The red is a notional concept of an added flange. I expect that just one half would be fine (imagine just the left half of the red part)... you probably don't need both flanges but with my simplistic drawing program it was easier to draw than a single flange would be.

eMe9GMh.jpg


You could use .020, and if the flanges were 1/4" high, that might suffice. But I'd make them 3/8" or even 1/2" or so. And of course, you could make it thicker. Whatever you have material for.

It could be on the non-wire side of the bridge if there's room.

Dave
Got it. Just stiffen the 0.020” so it doesnt bend.
 
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