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Trailing Edge Dies - Need Both?

dstates

Well Known Member
I see that these trailing edge dies are recommended. Do you need both of these for an RV-14 or just the RV-14 specific ones? The RV-14 specific ones only mention the elevator so I'm wondering if I need both.

Thanks,
Doug
 

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I see that these trailing edge dies are recommended. Do you need both of these for an RV-14 or just the RV-14 specific ones? The RV-14 specific ones only mention the elevator so I'm wondering if I need both.

Thanks,
Doug

I used both - the RV-14-specific one for the elevators, and the "regular" one for ailerons, flaps, and rudder, all of which have a more normal trailing edge taper to a sharp edge.

_Alex
 
I used both - the RV-14-specific one for the elevators, and the "regular" one for ailerons, flaps, and rudder, all of which have a more normal trailing edge taper to a sharp edge.

_Alex


Thanks, that is the info I was looking for!!
 
I see that these trailing edge dies are recommended. Do you need both of these for an RV-14 or just the RV-14 specific ones? The RV-14 specific ones only mention the elevator so I'm wondering if I need both.

Thanks,
Doug

Got a link to these?
 
The first picture looks like ATS, https://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=AESSF-679

I got mine from Cleveland Aircraft Tool. Yes both are needed for 14, rudder will use the AEX, the elevator will use the RV14 specific one. I recommend the Cleveland ones, as they have a slight rough finish so they grip, the pictures of the ATS look like they don't, so could slip. But that's just from looking at a picture.

https://www.cleavelandtool.com/products/flat-squeezer-sets?variant=31588459905086
 
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I purchased both of mine from Aircraft Tool Supply. They were less expensive, especially if you are not getting the kit discount from Cleaveland Tool. Neither of them have a polished surface.

Both are marked as made by Avery Tools. I would guess that Cleaveland and Aircraft Tool Supply are selling the exact same items.
 

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Just offering an alternative. I built per the plans and section 5 and did not use any special tools. I partially set the rivets with a squeezer and carefully back riveted to finish them off. All of my trailing edges are dead straight and I am really happy with how they look….especially my rudder.
 
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Just offering an alternative. I built per the plans and section 5 and did not use any special tools. I partially set the rivets with a squeezed and carefully back riveted to finish them off. All of my trailing edges are dead straight and I am really happy with how they look….especially my rudder.

Not that I've seen a ton of RV-14 builder YouTube videos yet but I did do a search for rv-14 elevator and didn't find one that seemed to use either of the pre-configured specialty squeezer sets and I also haven't found a good one yet that really goes over any details on the elevator trailing edge closeout.

Haven't seen any builder video yet either discuss the need or use of the modified #40 countersink or using modifying the ends of the trailing edge wedge to match the thickness of the elevator tip fairing. Buy I've got 18 months to worry about it according to my kit status page, lol.
 
Not that I've seen a ton of RV-14 builder YouTube videos yet but I did do a search for rv-14 elevator and didn't find one that seemed to use either of the pre-configured specialty squeezer sets and I also haven't found a good one yet that really goes over any details on the elevator trailing edge closeout.

Haven't seen any builder video yet either discuss the need or use of the modified #40 countersink or using modifying the ends of the trailing edge wedge to match the thickness of the elevator tip fairing. Buy I've got 18 months to worry about it according to my kit status page, lol.

The modified #40 countersink is necessary for the Elevator trailing edge "wedge" because of its shape and thickness. I also used the Cleaveland special "wedge" template to make the countersinking super easy. (see https://youtu.be/2NQ-017kxGE?t=20 ) I believe I used the modified #40 countersink on the rudder trailing edge as well.

I'm about to close out my elevators and trim tab (tank sealant on the foam ribs going in tomorrow) and can take some special care to add detail to my videos of it, but in all honesty it's not a big deal, especially with the special squeezer sets. I used the AEX squeezer set on my rudder and it was super simple.

The key IMO is to cleco the trailing edge to something rigid and let either the tank sealant or VHB tape cure before doing any riveting.
 
Just offering an alternative. I built per the plans and section 5 and did not use any special tools. I partially set the rivets with a squeezer and carefully back riveted to finish them off. All of my trailing edges are dead straight and I am really happy with how they look….especially my rudder.

This, exactly, on all of the surfaces on my -10. I will point out that I glued them with proseal, cleco'd to an angle iron jig, before riveting them..
 
I did not use any special tools for any trailing edges. After prepping everything I put everything together with ProSeal and let it cure for a week. I used a back rivet set to bend the rivets and start them and finished with a flat set. They are all straight.
 
The modified #40 countersink is necessary for the Elevator trailing edge "wedge" because of its shape and thickness. I also used the Cleaveland special "wedge" template to make the countersinking super easy. (see https://youtu.be/2NQ-017kxGE?t=20 ) I believe I used the modified #40 countersink on the rudder trailing edge as well.

I'm about to close out my elevators and trim tab (tank sealant on the foam ribs going in tomorrow) and can take some special care to add detail to my videos of it, but in all honesty it's not a big deal, especially with the special squeezer sets. I used the AEX squeezer set on my rudder and it was super simple.

The key IMO is to cleco the trailing edge to something rigid and let either the tank sealant or VHB tape cure before doing any riveting.



I can’t stress the part about letting the adhesive set before riveting enough! I used Proseal on my 14 elevator trailing edge and used the Cleveland specialty dies to squeeze the rivets (while the proseal was still wet). I ended up with a big mess. The proseal acted like a lubricant and as I squeezed, the wedge “pushed” out from between the skins and actually warped the wedge and elongated the holes in both the wedge and skins. I had to drill the rivets out, cleaned off all of the proseal (YUCK!) and will have to replace the wedge (I am hoping I can salvage the skins!!!!) Going to consult an EAA tech advisor today.
 

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We used the pro-seal, cleco to a long (straight) angle stock, let cure for a few days, then squeeze with the Cleveland special squeezer set. We bought both sets for the rudder and elevator. Very nice results.
 
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