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VERY bad day

Since you have verified these cylinders are ECI/Titan, with the associated trouble with them, if it were me I would replace all cylinders with new Superior of Lycoming. I was in your very same position 3 years ago and had I known about the trouble with ECI/Titan cylinders I would have done it immediately and saved lots of heart ache and expense. Unfortunately I did not have any idea bout Titan cylinders and by the time I addressed the issue I had to do a full TDI after the nickel coating went through the whole engine. Mid 2000's ECI Titan cylinders are little ticking time bombs ready to sluff off the improperly installed nickel coating. Just my opinion.

i have these 2000's ECI/Titan nickel coated cylinders running well for 200 hours... yet. but i am mentally prepared when the time bomb explodes. :)

is there any source that addresses the typical problems associated with these cylinders and what we can do to avoid them?
 
My engine was built in 2008. The cylinders are listed in my engine log as TISN04.1CA ECI Cylinder Assembly. The serial numbers are listed as:
51883-09
51805-14
51848-25
51990-06
How can i determine if these particular ones are indeed the among those that are known to be problematic?
 
My engine was built in 2008. The cylinders are listed in my engine log as TISN04.1CA ECI Cylinder Assembly. The serial numbers are listed as:
51883-09
51805-14
51848-25
51990-06
How can i determine if these particular ones are indeed the among those that are known to be problematic?

i do believe that this is the applicable document:

https://www.federalregister.gov/doc...-eci-reciprocating-engine-cylinder-assemblies

according to that your cylinders do not belong to neither Group A nor Group B and are therefor not affected.

as i understand this document is adressing the urgent problems with these cylinders appearing back in 2009 dur to errors in the manufacturing process. but in addition to that the nickel coated cylinders from ECI can have others problems that this document does not refer to.
 
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If I pull the jug now, and the engine may be sitting for the winter until i can get a replacement sourced and installed, how can i protect the engine from further corrosion while it sits? I won't be able to run preservative oil through it with a cylinder off.

Depending upon what has failed and what damage it caused, you can get the cylinder overhauled instead of replacing it. There are several shops that will send you a fresh OH cyl today and you return the core. Just call them and ask if they will accept a cermanil core. Don't assume they will and there will be extra charges if the core doesn't meet their standard.

Once #1 is replaced, you can start flying while waiting for new jugs for the other cylinders. This eliminates your worry about rust. I have heard that it can be many months to get a new cylinder these days and when overhauled correctly, these can live just as long as new ones. I am not sure that I would replace with another cermanil cylinder though. I have several 360/540 cylinder cores that I would sell for cheap and could use that as a core.

While these exotic cylinders are difficult to hone, I suspect there is a shop or two out there that will do the work. We have the same issue with the nikasil cylinders in the porsche world and there are several shops that will do the work. It just requires different stones for the honer and the skill to use them.

Larry
 
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i do believe that this is the applicable document:

https://www.federalregister.gov/doc...-eci-reciprocating-engine-cylinder-assemblies

according to that your cylinders do not belong to neither Group A nor Group B and are therefor not affected.

as i understand this document is adressing the urgent problems with these cylinders appearing back in 2009 dur to errors in the manufacturing process. but in addition to that the nickel coated cylinders from ECI can have others problems that this document does not refer to.

I am not at all familiar with these ECI issues, but will say that I thought the issue you are seeing was not with the cylinders themselves, but was a problem with delamination of the coated rings that are used with these cylinders. I don't believe they ever issued an AD for delaminated rings. Just a quality problem that has bitten several folks. Once the cylinder is off you will know what your problem is.

While I recommend get some assistance pulling the cyl, if you call me, I will walk you through the process. Send me a PM. You'll need to buy or borrow some wrenches for the hold down bolts.

Larry
 
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This, by the way, explains the observed behavior described in the Savvy story where the mechanic insisted the metal was steel and disregarded the lab analysis. It stuck to his magnet. But the lab said it was aluminum.

Given the interest, I'll describe how I got around this. An old salt taught me a neat trick for identifying Aluminum vs steel in small particles. Clean them off with something and place in a glass jar and add muriatic acid. The acid does absolutely nothing to a steel particle (at least not in the short term we're dealing with here), BUT an aluminum particle will begin to fizz like alkaseltzer and will disappear in a few seconds. This was how I ultimately confirmed all the particles were Al. If you don't clean the oil off the particle, you need to wait a bit for the acid to eat through the oil and start to do it's work on the metal itself. Don't let this confuse you into thinking it is steel.

Not a chemist, so can't say what happens to materials other than alum or steel and I have no idea what ECI uses to coat their rings, but suspect it is similar to the plasma coating used on rings in the hot rod world. I have no idea what materials are used in that coating.

Larry
 
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In addition to the Lycoming OH manual if you search YouTube for O-360 overhaul you will find 2 channels that have a series of videos on the teardown and rebuilt of a Lycoming. The Overhaul manual from Lycoming goes step by step on the teardown process. 2 links below, if I recall correctly the Channel Hangarats (2nd one below) is managed by the A&P in the video, he follows the Lycoming manual, I watched a couple videos and went to the manual just to confirm his process.

Some links:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhl79AQpE4s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcBBMC6d-o8&list=PLk0V_fOE0e9Qmu9dX6-vfbxIxkY4ROyoD
 
It may take longer than that

Just got off the phone with the Air Power guy. I need two cylinders for an O-320 (05K2100). Lycoming currently says they'll be available May 2023 (!) but even that may be optimistic. Per the Air Power guy, "Lycoming told us last year that we'd get some -540 cylinders delivered June 2022 and we still haven't received them."

The cost to repair my existing cylinders was going to be in the same ballpark as buying new, but it looks like repair is going to be the only thing that can happen (relatively) quickly. Assuming the required parts are available.

These supply chain disruptions suuuuuuuck.

If I pull the jug now, and the engine may be sitting for the winter until i can get a replacement sourced and installed, how can i protect the engine from further corrosion while it sits? I won't be able to run preservative oil through it with a cylinder off.
 
in this case, would it hurt to spray a bunch of engine fogging oil into the opening after i remove the cylinder? And fog the remaining cylidners?
 
Phil - if it were me, I’d pull the #1 cylinder just to see what the rings look like - if they are delaminating, it will be fairly obvious. If not…then yeah, you’v e got a weird problem. Of course, before that, just put air into the cylinder and see where it comes out - intake, exhaust, or crankcase. That will tell you a lot about what you need to plan.

If you have ring delamination (the thin coating will be flaking off), then you really should be planning on pulling all four jugs, because if of one is letting go, they will likely all do so soon.

just how I’d approach it if it were mine….

Paul
 
Thanks all,
Yes I'm thinking that replacing all four jugs is the way to go, plus having the engine opened-up and replacing the bearings. There is a shop about an hour from me who is well-known in the area - they do all our club airplanes. To repair the engine (new cylinders, new bearings, plus thorough examination of everything inside) they are quoting about half of the cost of a full overhaul through Aero Sport.
How do i tell if my engine is "Narrow deck" or "Wide deck" and what does this mean? If I get 4 new cylinders, will the specific cylinder choice depend on whether i have narrow-deck or wide-deck?
 
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Metal in oil

I am not an engine pro but have my 540 in pieces in the garage for a cam failure.

Narrow deck engine will have hex type cylinder hold down nuts, wide decks use regular nuts. Yes it matters which you have and no they are not interchangeable.

As to splitting the case, it is a subjective call that increases cost in both parts and labor exponentially. It is hard for metal to lodge in the bearings as the filter usually stops most of it. The larger pieces sit harmlessly in the oil pan and anything picked up by the pump has to go through the suction screen and the main oil filter. With my motor, about 1/2 of a cam lobe was ground down and there was no appreciable wear in the main bearings when split.

I will attach a pic of the metal in my oil pan.
 

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Cam lobe

These lobes should all look like the far one. Even with all this, the bearings looked fine.
 

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My engine had suddenly started consuming oil at an alarming rate and running a bit rough at high power settings. I took it to a very experienced AME at my airport today. He opened the oil filter and saw a significant amount of steel in it (picture below). The oil in the filter was black, after only 15 hours since new oil and filter.
His recommendation with this much steel in the filter and the black oil, is that the engine needs to be torn-down, inspected and re-built.
460 hours hobbs time, 12 years flying. In winter i pickled with 2F, fogged cylidners. Flew every 2 weeks on average, never longer than 4 weeks (except when pickled for winter). Engine was purchased as an overhauled engine from Aero Sport about 13 years ago (new cylinders).

Just to ask to make sure assumptions weren't made. Was the metal checked with a magnet to make sure it is all steel?
As others have said, the oil consumption (assuming no massive external leaks) leads one to cylinders not the core engine. At a minimum, you might want to borescope the cylinders.
 
I must have misunderstood this. Hex nuts different from "regular nuts"?

Narrow-deck engines (and also wide-deck 390's) have internal hex nuts on the 1/2-20 studs. Well, actually they have 12-point nuts, but an Allen key works.

s-l1600.jpg
 
Thanks all,
Yes I'm thinking that replacing all four jugs is the way to go, plus having the engine opened-up and replacing the bearings. There is a shop about an hour from me who is well-known in the area - they do all our club airplanes. To repair the engine (new cylinders, new bearings, plus thorough examination of everything inside) they are quoting about half of the cost of a full overhaul through Aero Sport.
How do i tell if my engine is "Narrow deck" or "Wide deck" and what does this mean? If I get 4 new cylinders, will the specific cylinder choice depend on whether i have narrow-deck or wide-deck?

That sounds like a very good idea, and good deal. For cylinders you can go with Lycoming factory or Superior. I didn't give Continental Titan cylinders a thought based on the original cylinder history and more importantly how they blew me off when I called them on the phone. So on my Titan/ECI experimental engine TDI/rebuild I went with 4 through-hardened Superior steel cylinders with a 9:1 compression ratio. I like steel cylinders and since I live in the dry desert wasn't as concerned about fancy nickel coatings. Plus those coatings were what caused the whole TDI on my engine. So I felt a lot better going steel and liked the fact Superior offers though-hardened steel. Lycoming is case hardened which mean the metal is locally hardened at the cylinder walls for wear. Honestly I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference as long as the wear areas are hardened. If you live in a moist corrosive area you might consider the fancy cylinder coatings.

One of the advantages of my TDI was we found some case fretting and corrosion on the cam while it was down. A little polishing on the cam and Divco resurfacing of the case halves all under the Barrett Precision boutique engine shop and my engine totally rocks.
 

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Does anybody know a part number for compatible Superior cylinders for a wide-deck O-320-D2A?
SL32006W-A20P ?
 
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I am not an engine pro but have my 540 in pieces in the garage for a cam failure.

Narrow deck engine will have hex type cylinder hold down nuts, wide decks use regular nuts. Yes it matters which you have and no they are not interchangeable.

As to splitting the case, it is a subjective call that increases cost in both parts and labor exponentially. It is hard for metal to lodge in the bearings as the filter usually stops most of it. The larger pieces sit harmlessly in the oil pan and anything picked up by the pump has to go through the suction screen and the main oil filter. With my motor, about 1/2 of a cam lobe was ground down and there was no appreciable wear in the main bearings when split.

I will attach a pic of the metal in my oil pan.

+1

I would not have the case torn down solely due to metal found in the filter, especially when you don't even know what the metal is. If the problem is found in the cylinders and can be confirmed to be limited to the cylinders, the only reason to tear the case apart is to deal with potential damage to the bearings and IMHO this is a low probability. Yes, it can happen but the odds are that the filter caught most or all of it. If the problem was in the jugs, I would replace the jugs and move on. If the bearings were damaged, you will see that in short order via an inability to reach the oil pressures levels that you used to. If that happens, tear it down then. Removing the cylinders again is a SMALL portion of the of the overhaul cost, so no economy in "doing it while I am in there."

Larry
 
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I guess i was looking at the wrong nuts? The nuts holding the cylinder to the crankshaft look like hex nuts to me?

The other poster said hex nuts but really meant 12 point internal nuts. It is a not technically a hex, but it is a female and a 12 pointed version at that (looks just like a 12 point socket). A normal nut is male hex with a female socket (6 or 12 points can be used). The narrow deck uses a female 12 point on the nut and a male 6 point hex on the wrench.
 
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If i replace one cylinder, is there any consideration about matching to my existing cylinders in terms of piston weight or any other factors?
 
If i replace one cylinder, is there any consideration about matching to my existing cylinders in terms of piston weight or any other factors?

Not in my opinion, given your situation. While many of us make an effort to match piston weights, the Lycoming tolerances allow any combination of parts that weigh anywhere in the specified weight range of each part. You have no idea what the other pistons weigh and the only way to figure it out is to removing all the pistons and clean them. I doubt that Lycoming is even matching pistons when they built that engine. I suspect they pull any old piston out of a bin and put it on. If replacing all four at once, then yes it is easy to have superior ship a set of matching parts. However, in today's supply chain this may cost you months of waiting.

It is however important to match the piston pin / plug style with the others. The newer integral pin plug units are heavier than the standard pin plus two of the three different styles of plugs. You must match this or the weights of the rotating assembly will be out of tolerance. IIRC, you must install the same style of pin plug as well, due to weight differences. You'll want to confirm that as my memory may be fuzzy. There is an SI or SB detailing it. The extra weight is fine, as long as the other pistons also use it. It is the imbalance of the weight that is the issue.

The superior piston will come with the new style integral unit. You will want to chuck that and replace with what came out of the old piston UNLESS it was the same style, then it is ok to use the new one. This is why Lycoming doesn't include the pin with the cylinder. They want the mechanic to make a conscious choice of which pin to use. When the new pin comes with the cylinder, there is a strong temptation for the mechanic to think "this is a good idea to use it." While ok to reuse the integral style, it is NOT recommended to re use dedicated pin plugs.
 
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Aero Sport told me yesterday that the piston pins were "fully floating" i think. He said i should be able to push it out when the piston is removed.
 
Aero Sport told me yesterday that the piston pins were "fully floating" i think. He said i should be able to push it out when the piston is removed.

Maybe if your lucky! while technically that is correct, coked oil typically forms on the ID of the piston bore outiside of the pin, requiring significant force to press it out. Coked oil has a pretty strong adhesion to metal. At 400 hours it MIGHT be possible to just push it out with your fingers.
 
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Might be simpler to just pull the whole engine and ship it to an engine shop of your choice to get all of the work done.
 
Phil, no disrespect, but you should find/hire/beg/bribe someone who is experienced in this work to assist and train you in this process. I admire your willingness to learn, but the outcome here is important to your future safety.
Absolutely. There is someone very experienced here who has agreed to help me with the cylinder removal, probably tomorrow.
QUestion - I understand that i need some 1/2" fender washers or spacers to maintain tension on the bolts after the cylinder comes off. What thickness should these be?
 
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Absolutely. There is someone very experienced here who has agreed to help me with the cylinder removal, probably tomorrow.
QUestion - I understand that i need some 1/2" fender washers or spacers to maintain tension on the bolts after the cylinder comes off. What thickness should these be?

Just buy a pack of washers and use what is required. Will need around 3/8" - 1/2" of thickness for each stud. However, only the through studs need this treatment (2 studs per cylinder.
 
Absolutely. There is someone very experienced here who has agreed to help me with the cylinder removal, probably tomorrow.
QUestion - I understand that i need some 1/2" fender washers or spacers to maintain tension on the bolts after the cylinder comes off. What thickness should these be?

Fly Boy Accessories makes a nice holdown plate made specifically for this purpose at a reasonable price.
 
Fly Boy Accessories makes a nice holdown plate made specifically for this purpose at a reasonable price.

Use a plate like this, or make one! Washers can spin and scratch the surface where the cylinders mount, creating a potential leak party. Lycoming recommends torque plates for this, and they are pricey - but DIVCO uses a steel strap that connects to two studs at the same time so it can’t spin. That’s much cheaper than real torque plates!
 
Use a plate like this, or make one! Washers can spin and scratch the surface where the cylinders mount, creating a potential leak party. Lycoming recommends torque plates for this, and they are pricey - but DIVCO uses a steel strap that connects to two studs at the same time so it can’t spin. That’s much cheaper than real torque plates!

While I don't disagree that a strap like this is a better approach and scratches are never welcome. However It is not a perfect fit up of those flat parts that prevents leakage. It is the cylinder base O-ring that does this and it seals against the bevel machined at the edge of the bore in the base and not the flat portion of the base. Any damage to that bevel will create leak paths and is why Lyc gives guidance to support the rods after the cylinder is removed. If they hit the bevel, it easily creates damage to that bevel (soft aluminum) and produces a leak path. You can't realistically expect two flat metal parts to create a seal without sealant or a gasket between them, at least without VERY precise machining and polishing.

Larry
 
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While I don't disagree that a strap like this is a better approach and scratches are never welcome. However It is not a perfect fit up of those flat parts that prevents leakage. It is the cylinder base O-ring that does this and it seals against the bevel machined at the edge of the bore in the base and not the flat portion of the base. Any damage to that bevel will create leak paths and is why Lyc gives guidance to support the rods after the cylinder is removed. If they hit the bevel, it easily creates damage to that bevel (soft aluminum) and produces a leak path. You can't realistically expect two flat metal parts to create a seal without sealant or a gasket between them, at least without VERY precise machining and polishing.

Larry

I don;t necessarily disagree with anything you said Larry….but since it is clear that Phil is new to this, I am passing on the factory recommendations, and what the manual says. Start folks off “right” I figure…. ;)
 
Well, just to close this thread off and put it to bed, here's where I ended-up. The guy who was going to help me with cylinder removal broke his hip on Fri :(. Nobody else in the area was available to help, and I just wasn't comfortable trying to do it by myself.
I had a long chat with AeroSport late in the day on Fri, and they agreed to do something short of an overhaul for me. They're going to take it back and do a thorough inspection, similar to what they'd do for a prop-strike, including crack detection and re-painting. They will install new bearings and four reconditioned Lycoming cylinders. He said that after the repair, the engine will be assessed as expected to make the remaining 1500 hours to overhaul. The cost is much less than a full overhaul - this seems to me to be the right approach to balance safety and cost.
Of course he warned me that they almost always find unexpected problems that will add to the cost, but I'd rather know about any problems in my engine than continue to operate it naively.
The engine removal is about half-done. I expect to have it completely removed by today or tomorrow.
Many thanks to you here for all your help and advice!
 
Well, just to close this thread off and put it to bed, here's where I ended-up. The guy who was going to help me with cylinder removal broke his hip on Fri :(. Nobody else in the area was available to help, and I just wasn't comfortable trying to do it by myself.
I had a long chat with AeroSport late in the day on Fri, and they agreed to do something short of an overhaul for me. They're going to take it back and do a thorough inspection, similar to what they'd do for a prop-strike, including crack detection and re-painting. They will install new bearings and four reconditioned Lycoming cylinders. He said that after the repair, the engine will be assessed as expected to make the remaining 1500 hours to overhaul. The cost is much less than a full overhaul - this seems to me to be the right approach to balance safety and cost.
Of course he warned me that they almost always find unexpected problems that will add to the cost, but I'd rather know about any problems in my engine than continue to operate it naively.
The engine removal is about half-done. I expect to have it completely removed by today or tomorrow.
Many thanks to you here for all your help and advice!

That's effectively an IRAN and trust me, it'll help you sleep better at night. I have personal experience to support this notion.
 
Well, just to close this thread off and put it to bed, here's where I ended-up. The guy who was going to help me with cylinder removal broke his hip on Fri :(. Nobody else in the area was available to help, and I just wasn't comfortable trying to do it by myself.
I had a long chat with AeroSport late in the day on Fri, and they agreed to do something short of an overhaul for me. They're going to take it back and do a thorough inspection, similar to what they'd do for a prop-strike, including crack detection and re-painting. They will install new bearings and four reconditioned Lycoming cylinders. He said that after the repair, the engine will be assessed as expected to make the remaining 1500 hours to overhaul. The cost is much less than a full overhaul - this seems to me to be the right approach to balance safety and cost.
Of course he warned me that they almost always find unexpected problems that will add to the cost, but I'd rather know about any problems in my engine than continue to operate it naively.
The engine removal is about half-done. I expect to have it completely removed by today or tomorrow.
Many thanks to you here for all your help and advice!

Aerosport will take good care of you. They did a tear down for me a couple years ago and they were great to work with. Be sitting down when prices start rolling around (if you haven't already seen it), especially if your engine has rollers. Could not believe how much more expensive rollers were.
 
Good decision!

I had a long chat with AeroSport late in the day on Fri, and they agreed to do something short of an overhaul for me...
...this seems to me to be the right approach to balance safety and cost.

That's effectively an IRAN and trust me, it'll help you sleep better at night. I have personal experience to support this notion.

I agree that you made the right call - especially with the ECI/Titan cylinders. Please let us know what Aerosport finds with your cylinder(s).
 
Hi again everyone. I thought i'd post an update for anyone who is interested in the latest on my engine saga. I got the report from Aerosport last night. Broken piston ring and piston damage causing a signficant amount of aluminum in the oil. Aluminum imbedded in the camshaft and significant camshaft corrosion. Crankshaft is below tolerance and looks like it needs to be replaced. All my accessories are fine. Crankcase has to be sent for thrustface repair and worn lifter bore. At least all this has validated my decision to send the engine in for tear-down.
I will be talking to Aerosport early next week to discuss options, but i'd welcome any advice here. I'm wondering at this point whether in the long run i'd be better of throwing-in the towel and ordering a new engine, or whether this engine is still well within what folks would typically consider to be worth repairing? Below is a link to the report from Aerosport. Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated.
https://1drv.ms/b/s!Ai6PWykPTN6oqoxFIrU7P6Oz3-lIbw?e=Tsgq7b
 
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Hi again everyone. I thought i'd post an update for anyone who is interested in the latest on my engine saga. I got the report from Aerosport last night. Broken piston ring and piston damage causing a signficant amount of aluminum in the oil. Aluminum imbedded in the camshaft and significant camshaft corrosion. Crankshaft is below tolerance and looks like it needs to be replaced. All my accessories are fine. Crankcase has to be sent for thrustface repair and worn lifter bore. At least all this has validated my decision to send the engine in for tear-down.
I will be talking to Aerosport early next week to discuss options, but i'd welcome any advice here. I'm wondering at this point whether in the long run i'd be better of throwing-in the towel and ordering a new engine, or whether this engine is still well within what folks would typically consider to be worth repairing? Below is a link to the report from Aerosport. Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated.
https://1drv.ms/b/s!Ai6PWykPTN6oqoxFIrU7P6Oz3-lIbw?e=Tsgq7b

Shops like divco do a great job on the cases. When dealing with problems, they just weld on new material and machine back to tolerances. As long as Divco or any other reputable shop sends you back a case, I would have absolutely no issue trusting it just as much as a new case. It is pretty binary. Either they can get it back to new condition or they red tag it. They have pretty high standards for releasing a case. Given it is getting a new crankshaft cam and cylinders, it is really not that far off from a new engine. Really the only thing getting re used is the stuff in the accessory case and the connecting rods. Even if they plan to overhaul the cylinders instead of replace, that wouldn't change my opinion, assuming they are using a reputable shop to do it. Based upon what I have read here, a new engine is like a one year wait.
 
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Super nice job of documentation by Darren and the gang at ASP. You made the right choice going back there for your work. Best of luck with the rest!
 
ASP rebuild

+1 on Bill’s comment. I went to Camloops to build my engine with Darren. They have all the capability to salvage what they can from your engine and do the work for a rebuild. Would definitely recommend going up there for “build school” to do a rebuild on your engine. Super nice bunch of folks and super experienced and knowledable.

KT
IO360 B1B experimental.
 
Oh wow I assumed the build school was only for new builds. If i can go and do it for the reassembly of my engine, that would be a very appealing educational experience. I'll ask Darren when i talk to him next week. Do you know if they charge for the build school (above and beyond the cost of them just doing the work)?
 
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Phil, thanks for sharing this - really interesting and I've learned a lot. Do you have any idea what might have caused the ring to break?

Image from U576 INSPECTION REPORT  W PHOTOS , page 23.png
 
Do you have any idea what might have caused the ring to break?Do you have any idea what might have caused the ring to break?

My best guess is that it was the way i had started pre-heating my engine this past fall. I had the not-so bright idea of setting up a small desktop space heater to blow warm air into the cowl inlet at the #1 Cylinder. My thinking was that this would circulate warm air in around the engine compartment, in addition to pre-heating with my reinf sump heater. The fact that my #1 cylidner broke shortly after adoptiong this pre-heating procedure makes me think that maybe the #1 cylinder was getting too much heat on only a portion of it, leading to a significantly asymmetric temperature distribution in/on htat cylinder before starting.
The fact that the crankshaft is below limits seems like it must be unrelated though - I don't know why the crank would be below limits after less than 500 hours.
 
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i think that desktop heater throws a miniscule amount of heat to one cylinder and not nearly enough to cause a problem.what could it heat it up to? 150 deg. f. above oat max?
 
Crankshaft is below limits because it was machined down a few times before you got it in your engine overhaul. That’s unfortunately how these things go. Unless you know you have a new crankshaft, most of them are turned down and some of them are on their last turn down before scrap.
 
I doubt your preheat caused this. Power Sport is top notch. Interesting report. Damage is way more than I would think.

Have you priced new engines? Ouch. Also the lead times on a new engine is long. What is cost of tear down, clean, IRAN (inspected and repaired as necessary) vs new. It depends on how much can be salvaged. Up to you and your wallet. The inspection and documentation is thorough.
 
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