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McMaster-Carr Door Seals

Blizzard

Active Member
Does anyone have a source for exactly trimming the door openings? Instructions, video showing the process, exact dimensions , etc. From what I have been able to find.....it looks like they are trimmed so much that the 3 stage process for fitting the doors in the plans pretty much goes out the window. (no pun intended). I initially trimmed one door opening to the scribe line that was present and just doing that removes any possibility of achieving a 1/8 to 1/16 gap between C1002 and C1002B. Many people seem to have there door opening trimmed before they even started working on the doors. How did they know how much to trim? Is there a step by step process for this somewhere that I'm missing?

Thanks
 
I've reviewed his many times but I can't find a good step by step description of how he got to the finish trim. Lot's of pix and some measurements from picture and a vid that shows some dimensions. Hoping to find a step by step description ..something along the lines of "How to Trim Your Cabin Top for Idiots"!! LOL

Also If anyone is in Southwest Ohio...Dayton, Columbus, Cincinnati area with a -10 that has the Mc-Carr seals I would really appreciate the chance to look at your plane to see how you did it.

Thanks
 
seals

Pretty sure you won't find a better description of how to do the seals than Ivan's unless there is something recent...

As for having a -10 in the CVG area, I do, and it is based at I67, Harrison Ohio.

You are more than welcome to come take a look If you want...
 
I've reviewed his many times but I can't find a good step by step description of how he got to the finish trim. Lot's of pix and some measurements from picture and a vid that shows some dimensions. Hoping to find a step by step description ..something along the lines of "How to Trim Your Cabin Top for Idiots"!! LOL

Also If anyone is in Southwest Ohio...Dayton, Columbus, Cincinnati area with a -10 that has the Mc-Carr seals I would really appreciate the chance to look at your plane to see how you did it.

Thanks

There are at least three of us in the Columbus area. I’m based at DLZ.
 
McMaster

Here's what I posted several years ago, after viewing numerous other posts, as you are doing now. I remember scratching my head a lot about the process before figuring out how to do it.


https://tasrv10.com/?p=1996


Hope the pictures here help. Also, if you don't yet own a Perma-Grit wedge block, buy one because it'll save a lot of time and sandpaper. A smaller size one helps as well for working across the top of the door opening, between the hinges etc.

A.
 
Here's what I posted several years ago, after viewing numerous other posts, as you are doing now. I remember scratching my head a lot about the process before figuring out how to do it.


https://tasrv10.com/?p=1996


Hope the pictures here help. Also, if you don't yet own a Perma-Grit wedge block, buy one because it'll save a lot of time and sandpaper. A smaller size one helps as well for working across the top of the door opening, between the hinges etc.

A.

Thanks a ton for that build log! Your description is easy to follow and the pictures are very illustrative. Ivan's pictures are quite useful, too, but it takes a lot of background to interpret them, IMO.

Do you recall what your initial trim on the door frame was? Did you trim to the scribe line, or did you know a different set of dimensions to start with?
 
Thanks a ton for that build log! Your description is easy to follow and the pictures are very illustrative. Ivan's pictures are quite useful, too, but it takes a lot of background to interpret them, IMO.

Do you recall what your initial trim on the door frame was? Did you trim to the scribe line, or did you know a different set of dimensions to start with?

i have no log or pics. However, I posted about clearances and optimum bulb compression. I used Ivans clearance #'s but they didn't work for me.

Larry
 
Scribe lines

Thanks a ton for that build log! Your description is easy to follow and the pictures are very illustrative. Ivan's pictures are quite useful, too, but it takes a lot of background to interpret them, IMO.

Do you recall what your initial trim on the door frame was? Did you trim to the scribe line, or did you know a different set of dimensions to start with?

As I recall (a big caveat these days), I largely ignored scribe lines. In general the (pink) cabin top was terrible and required plenty of work to make it all right, and I trimmed the doors to fit them to the cabin top. You want the side transitions pillar->front door frame->door window->rear door frame->rear pillar->rear window->rear cabin top to be smooth and that doesn't happen without putting in the work; for example, I had to put several layers of glass on parts of the rear pillars to bring the surface level up to match the doors.

Also, don't try and set the paint gap around the door edge until "later", when you're ready to paint. I set mine so that a piece of sandpaper would "just" pass through the gap all the way around the door, and left it at that until paint time. I've had builders contact me that have set their final (paint) gap early on, only to find after taking the doors off and putting them on several times that the gap is no longer uniform. I haven't personally experienced this, but I'd hate to have to build up a door edge after the fact...

Regards,

A.
 
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