What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Boot Cowl blues

Freemasm

Well Known Member
Location = Boot cowl to fuse side skin joint

Having a b*&%! of a time getting the fuse skin to "lay down" after installing the doubler for the boot cowl. Any knowledge that can be shared would be appreciated.

Looking forward. What methods/materials did you use to WX proof the boot cowl along the top of the firewall and Instrument panel bulkhead? A bunch of expensive avionics/electronics will be underneath, obviously.

Much thanks.

Views looking (mostly) down.
 

Attachments

  • boot cowl1.jpg
    boot cowl1.jpg
    516.8 KB · Views: 384
  • Boot cowl2.jpg
    Boot cowl2.jpg
    540.5 KB · Views: 350
The boot cowl is certainly a tricky piece of sheet metal to form. I used a sheet metal shrinker in a few strategic places which allowed to conform nicely. If you go to www.aero-kids.com there are some photos of when I did mine.
 
Using a roller is the best way to go from what I have seen. If you can find someone with a 48” roller that knows how to roll sheet metal would be the ticket.
 
I took my boot cowl to my local heating and air conditioning shop, they rolled the sides and edges, great fit. Also, I located some 100 degree stainless "pull" rivets that has a higher shear strength than driven rivets. I then filed the center holes of the pull rivets with glazing compound, and after primer and paint, it looks great!!! Trying to crawl under the dash and get a bucking bar on the rivets with wiring, venting, and ^^%%$@*%^% in the way, I am really glad to use the blind rivets!

Regards,

GAry
 
Thanks

Thanks for the replies. Making the boot cowl is pretty easy. My issues was the side skin at the boot cowl joint. Got a "quick build" fuse and the skin laid down OK until I installed the BC doubler. I've improvised, made a tool, etc. and the skin edge doesn't quite lay down all the way. Can't edge roll it without semi-major de-riveting. I'm sure others have lived through this.

Did any of you previous builders use any weather stripping along the top of the panel and firewall bulkheads?

Thanks.
 
How is the boot cowl doubler (attach strip) attached to the upper longeron? I am thinking of doing it this way on my 4 so I have a nice flush seam and not the overlap.
 
What windscreen type?

Thanks for the replies. Making the boot cowl is pretty easy. My issues was the side skin at the boot cowl joint. Got a "quick build" fuse and the skin laid down OK until I installed the BC doubler. I've improvised, made a tool, etc. and the skin edge doesn't quite lay down all the way. Can't edge roll it without semi-major de-riveting. I'm sure others have lived through this.

Did any of you previous builders use any weather stripping along the top of the panel and firewall bulkheads?

Thanks.

Is your machine a speed slope windscreen or the bubble nose? A good percentage of the speed slope windscreen rockets get nut plates and removable skins from the firewall back to the front edge of the windscreen. Counter sunk flush head screws from the outside. Is it water tight? not perfectly, but you can make a very effective and thin seal every time you close it by making a tube seal of renfrew tape or electrical tape. It goes under the skins and on top of the nut plate flange before you set the skins back in place.
One time use and very replaceable.
 
Is your machine a speed slope windscreen or the bubble nose? A good percentage of the speed slope windscreen rockets get nut plates and removable skins from the firewall back to the front edge of the windscreen. Counter sunk flush head screws from the outside. Is it water tight? not perfectly, but you can make a very effective and thin seal every time you close it by making a tube seal of renfrew tape or electrical tape. It goes under the skins and on top of the nut plate flange before you set the skins back in place.
One time use and very replaceable.

Any photos available of this tube seal from tape method?
 
I had my HVAC roll the boot cow, also found some 100 degree countersunk stainless pull rivets, rated stronger than bucked rivets, saved a lot of contortion, cuss words, and heat stroke!

DAR Gary
 
How is the boot cowl doubler (attach strip) attached to the upper longeron? I am thinking of doing it this way on my 4 so I have a nice flush seam and not the overlap.

Still looking for info or photos if anyone has it.

TIA.
 
Can’t speak for the 4

On Rockets (based on the 4), the doubler is between the side skin and the top longeron/cockpit rail. Pick up existing holes between the aforementioned.
 

Attachments

  • D019CC04-4C75-49FE-BB67-E967B73FA501.jpg
    D019CC04-4C75-49FE-BB67-E967B73FA501.jpg
    232.5 KB · Views: 132
  • A4F95314-96AB-4C93-BE3F-73280A5A77BC.jpg
    A4F95314-96AB-4C93-BE3F-73280A5A77BC.jpg
    293.1 KB · Views: 122
Back
Top