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Fuel Sender Questions

thoma015

Well Known Member
Hi all,

I missed the part in the directions where it says "DO NOT" install the rubber gasket that came with the fuel sender unit. Well...i missed that and i did install the gasket and already covered it in proseal.


Has anyone else put the rubber gasket in there? Why the emphasis from vans to not include it?

Thanks
 
Hi all,

I missed the part in the directions where it says "DO NOT" install the rubber gasket that came with the fuel sender unit. Well...i missed that and i did install the gasket and already covered it in proseal.


Has anyone else put the rubber gasket in there? Why the emphasis from vans to not include it?

Thanks

The emphasis is because you're likely (not guaranteed) to get a leak.

I'd remove it, scrape off the proseal, and install the sender directly to the tank using proseal to seal it...
 
Actually you may be OK with the rubber gasket. The cork one is the one that gives the most trouble. Over time the cork gets saturated and begins to leak.
 
Toss the cork for certain, and take a long look at the rubber one like a snake that hasn't bitten you yet.

A good thick layer of proseal can be broken up if you ever need to remove the access plate again, I've done it twice, just use one of the 6" stainless steel rulers like a knife and it works great.
 
I just replaced the black rubber seal under the sender due to a very small leak.... it had deteriorated over 9 years and was installed originally using proseal on both sides. I have subsequently, after a few hours of goop removal, reinstalled the sending unit using only proseal (flamemaster cs3204) and no gasket.....
 
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I usually do use the rubber gasket with no proseal. If it leaks a little, I tighten e screws until it stops. When that stops working, I will usually proseal around the edge.
 
after pro-seal, how long before adding av gas?

Fixing a leaky fuel sender. Once I apply the pro-seal and assemble, how long do I wait before adding fuel to the tank?
 
While working on a 9a, I removed the leaky rubber gasket and used Pro-seal. However now the EFIS is not getting a signal. I ran a separate ground wire to one of the screws to make sure we had a good ground, still no go. Ohm reading between the sender and ground is 1ohm and should be 250, tank is full. The unit worked fine until I got ahold of it. What could I have done wrong? Good news is that the leak is fixed.
 
Removing a fuel sender

OK, I admit it, sorry, I don't have an RV, but you guys are my great hope in solving a problem. I need to remove one of my fuel senders, Proseal-ed to a fiberglass rib, which is the inner end of the tank, inside the wing, accessed only via a 6" access cover, about 1 foot away from the sender and rib. The sender won't let go from the rib for love or money! And it's a huge pain getting to it with tools and seeing what you are doing at the same time. Tried various prying, twisting, etc., but Proseal is tough stuff. And of course, for various reasons, heat isn't a good idea for this situation :) Any ideas?
Here's a picture of the situation....Picture is before the screws and safety wire were removed....

Reinhard Metz
N49EX
[email protected]
 
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