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Flap Limit switch

D

DMFenster

Well Known Member
Searched the forum and most links are broken. I want to put in flap limit switches using the limit switches and diodes. Can someone explain how to wire this? Email me a schematic, perhaps?

Thanks,
Dave
Woodbridge, VA
RV-8
[email protected]
 
Check out the PHAviation products for this task. They are very helpful with the any questions you might have as well.

If you already have a relay, you would put the limit switch inline with flap up switch such that it opens the connection to the relay, which is typically a ground.
 
Better flap motor

Dave forget adding a separate limit switch, change the flap motor assembly.

Get one of these.

http://www.aeicomp.com/Detail.asp?P...eed+1/2"+per+Sec)+w/10K+Ohm+Pot++"IP65+Rated"

They are built and sealed better than what Vans puts in their kits. They have both up and down limit switches built in and they have a variable pot also for flap position for your EFIS, and they are only $124.

They also come in different throws lengths if you want. Check it out.

Brian
 
Brian is right, forget all those actuators without built in limit switches and feedback. Simplify your entire install with an actuator with built in limit switches to stop the motor from running on and feedback position for your EFIS display.

If you dont have the VP-X system this is the next best way.

They work great and solve many, many issues.
 
Carl Froehlich said:
This is as dirt simple as it gets - and works perfectly.
http://vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/store.cgi?ident=1498681003-410-162&browse=electrical&product=fps

I've installed this on an 8A, a 10 and a 14A. It will go into the new 8 project as well.

Carl
Click to expand...

This looks interesting. Is the switch (ON)-OFF-(ON), by any chance? If so, that will work with my current installation (I'm loathe to change anything at this point).

Does it have a position signal that can feed into an EFIS? Somebody have the schematic available?
 
It's actually even more simple using an actuator with the feedback built in. That setup, although may work just fine, uses external feedback that you have to mount on your existing actuator and get everything lined up properly so you get the feedback travel you need.

Why not use an actuator that has feedback AND limit switches built in?

The controller itself is good because of the "automatic" flaps. I built my own version that uses 4 LED lighted pushbuttons for each flap position rather than a toggle. I have at a quick glance visual indication of the flap position or movement of the flaps. With the toggle you have to look over your shoulder or at the tiny Ray Allen LED indicator to see where they are. I simply push UP, 10°, 20° or 30° and they go there. I glance at the switches and the 10° is lit up and I know they are at 10°. I can go to any position with one touch.

I know everyone has their preference and there really is no wrong way but keeping things simple in a complex flying machine has it's advantages. I'd rather focus on flying. :D
 
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The replacement actuator mentioned above I believe is a TOP-A6104TP 4" Stroke. I checked the one I have from Van's for my RV-8 has a travel of 5". Is the 4" travel enough? Also I can't tell if this one has internet threads on one end to screw in a rod end to allow adjustment. What modifications did you have to do to adapt it?
 
Tommy,

I'd first check to see if you are using all 5 inches of the Vans actuator. If you are still building check to see how much travel you need for the flaps to operate fully, if possible at this stage of your build. If 4" is enough then this would work. The next option of this type actuator is a 6 inch actuator. But of course it's physically 2" longer than the 4".

As you can see in the link you posted the actuator closed is 9.75" long and 4" longer when extended. The actuators with built in position feedback are a bit longer (about 1.25") than the ones without as these have a Bourn's pot inside the base to provide the feedback to your EFIS or flap controller.

If you need more than 4" of travel you could buy the 6" version and of course only utilize the 5" like the Van's actuator. But keep in mind the 6" version is 2" longer when closed. Just a guess.:D

If the 4" will be enough I have an extra 4" that I could sell you. If you need detailed specs I can give them to you as I can physically measure anything you might need.

These units only have 1/4" cross drilled holes in each end for mounting. They make brackets specifically for these to use as pivot points.

The end of the actuator does not have a threaded hole for a rod end. The actuator end is aluminum so you could drill and tap the end if you desire. Or simply machine a steel "U" shaped bracket that you could bolt to the existing hole on the actuator and then secure the rod end to your bracket with some jamb nuts.

The mounting options are endless and limited only to your imagination. Very easy to adapt to any mounting location or linkage.

Hope this helps.

Shawn
 
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Shawn

Thanks for the quick reply. It will be a few months before I have the wings on again. Will check the travel then.

Thanks
 
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