Dimpling HS-801PP - forward hole matching center nose rib

So - I was dimpling my HS-801PP skins today. I started using the hand squeezer for all the outer holes where it would reach. Then started with the Avery Tools C-Frame Arbor. Unfortunately, the arbor bottom with the female die is too thick to reach the forward most hole in the center line. It can reach the rest, but the clearance near the nose bend is too tight. Any thoughts on how to dimple this hole?

I thought about pulling the metal plate that the die sits in off the arbor and using it on the end of a strong board cantilevered off the end of the table, but the clearance is still too tight. I also tried holding the female die in hand and whacking the male end with a hammer, but that didn't do much to deform the metal so.... open to suggestions.

Thanks,

Do yourself a favor and buy some of these pop-rivet dimple dies

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/3_32-Close-Quarters-Die-Set/productinfo/DIE4263CQ/#.WHwG67YrLVo

They sell them in both sizes, and you will find them useful many times during your build, especially when you find holes that you forgot to dimple (and you will). I also have a set of the vise-grip dimplers that come in handy.


Chris

This might work

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/popgripdimp.php

I didn't use mine much, but when I needed it, I really needed it.

Oh. So that's what that is for.... A set of the 3/32 pop rivet dimpler came in my Aircraft Spruce RV tool kit. I just didn't know what it was for so I set it aside in a labeled container. Cool! Thanks!

Edit: Used this tool on the holes in question and it worked like a charm! Very cool!

One thing with those. Don't squeeze the rivet gun like your putting in a rivet. Just squeeze enough to make the dimple. Over squeezing will just break the nail. Also after the nail is all chewed up, replace it or de-burr it lightly with your 3m scotch-brite wheel.

Another trick is 'make your own tools'. You can make a female die using scrap steel that will fit in the space. Drill #40, countersink to the right depth. Put the mail die in your die holding rivet set that fits your rivet gun. *Lightly* tap the stackup using the gun at low pressure. If you don't have that type set, you can use a rivet in the hole, the shop-made female behind, & a mushroom set in the gun.

If you have a no-hole yoke for your squeezer and the pop-rivet dies, you can also use this technique, which is handy for thicker skins (the pop rivet puller doesn't make real crisp dimples in thicker skins):

Start the dimple with the pop-rivet puller.
Then, use some double sided tape to stick the pop rivet dies to your no-hole yoke and squeezer arbor.
Stick the male die to the ram, then put some tape on the female die and mate it with the male die, then close the squeezer to fix them in the proper position.
Use the dimple started with the pop rivet puller to get the squeezer in the right place (centered) and squeeze it.
You can also use a real short rivet for the male die, or a regular die if it doesn't bottom out against the no-hole yoke.

Takes longer to explain than to do it!

I went against conventional wisdom and put the male die on top. By mounting the C-frame on a plywood base with a bit of overhang clamped to a WorkMate portable bench, and flipping the HS-801PP over, I was able to dimple the leading edge nose rib rivet holes without a lot of hassle.

https://youtu.be/i6ljOVNIGoI

I was able to get those forward holes by getting help. One person to hold the skin open one to dimple. It worked.