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Cockpit paint over priming?

Blisshouse2

I'm New Here
First time builder and VAF poster here:eek::

To those who have primed internal pieces...what has been your method for painting the cockpit? Specifically i have the following dilemma:

I am going to prime (i know...huge opinions both ways), and very likely do it with a 2 part epoxy. One of the downsides of epoxy is that the available colors are very few, AND, my understand is that not much paint sticks to cured epoxy (even another epoxy coat) without sanding which doesn't seem feasible on a finished fuse. ....so, if i prime all parts during building process, i need some guidance on how to handle the painting of the cockpit over the already primed epoxy surface?

I am starting my -10 project in the next 3-4 weeks, and the priming obviously starts with the very first part so I ask this question because I'm trying to make sure i set out on the right track and don't have to unnecessarily switch methods mid-build and then have an inconsistent look when it's all said and done.

Thanks for any insight, critiques, suggestions etc that anyone has the time to provide.

Adam Bliss
Jacksonville, FL
 
What I do for interior paint:
- Do not prime anything during the build that later gets a topcoat. This means that you may need to mask off some stuff before priming, then assembly.
- Any "build primer" that remains gets cleaned with Coleman Fuel and Scotchbrite before interior paint.
- All interior powder coated stuff gets first sanded with 200 grit paper, then cleaned with Coleman Fuel.
- All bare aluminum stuff gets cleaned with Alumiprep (if feasible) or Coleman fuel. Both using Scotchbrite pads.
- Interior paint is PPG DP-40LF primer (one coat) and PPG urethane single stage paint topcoat. Follow the time requirements. One coat of urethane is adequate.

The first plane interior was painted 20 years ago and still looks brand new.

I do the same process for painting the panel and the baffles.

Carl
 
Just me

I used the sherwin williams wash primer P60G2; same as what the factory uses on the quick builds.
I sprayed Sherwin Williams jet flex over that. I used the conventional technology paint.

I painted everything before assembly.

The results are impressive. Very easy to spray and get a good finish. Tough as nails once dry. I used a standard Boeing color so that it will always be match-able in the future. (I figure Boeing is not going out of business anytime soon)

I plan to do the same on my next build, the RV 15!
 
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I alodined and epoxy primed all the parts of my -4 prior to riveting. When the fuselage was mostly completed, I sprayed the cockpit with with a water-based topcoat from System Three (without sanding). I probably solvent wiped the surfaces with acetone or MEK, or similar. 21 years later, it still looks good.
 
Interior paint

I used the sherwin williams wash primer P60G2; same as what the factory uses on the quick builds.
I sprayed Sherwin Williams jet flex over that. I used the conventional technology paint.

I painted everything before assembly.

The results are impressive. Very easy to spray and get a good finish. Tough as nails once dry. I used a standard Boeing color so that it will always be match-able in the future. (I figure Boeing is not going out of business anytime soon)

I plan to do the same on my next build, the RV 15!

I did the same. Rivets look really cool.
Next build will be Kirker Enduro Prime. 2K Epoxy. Almost exactly the same color and no need for a final interior coat.
 
When you say you painted everything before assembly..I assume you mean cockpit pieces? I.e primed all pieces that are visible sitting in the cockpit, then painted them with your choice of finished interior color, then riveted/assembled the fuse ? Did this not leave rivet set marks/ scratches on your fresh paint?…and unpainted rivets?

Out of curiosity….what sheen (semigloss /satin…etc) are you guys using for cockpit paint?
 
I did the same. Rivets look really cool.
Next build will be Kirker Enduro Prime. 2K Epoxy. Almost exactly the same color and no need for a final interior coat.
When you say you painted everything before assembly..I assume you mean cockpit pieces? I.e primed all pieces that are visible sitting in the cockpit, then painted them with your choice of finished interior color, then riveted/assembled the fuse ? Did this not leave rivet set marks/ scratches on your fresh paint?…and unpainted rivets?

Out of curiosity….what sheen (semigloss /satin…etc) are you guys using for cockpit paint?
 
Just me

I used satin finish.
The jet flex paint is really tough so it doesnt get marred during riveting. I did go over it with some car polish in a few areas that showed scuff marks.
 
Interior paint

When you say you painted everything before assembly..I assume you mean cockpit pieces? I.e primed all pieces that are visible sitting in the cockpit, then painted them with your choice of finished interior color, then riveted/assembled the fuse ? Did this not leave rivet set marks/ scratches on your fresh paint?…and unpainted rivets?

Out of curiosity….what sheen (semigloss /satin…etc) are you guys using for cockpit paint?

Technically, everything is primed with P60G2. Visible interior parts were primed with P60G2 then sprayed with Jet Flex SB within a 30 minute cure window. After a full cure, they were riveted. That included side skins. It was a mental game trying to keep track of visible paint areas.

No damage.i always use tape to protect. Jet Flex is pretty tough although it will scratch with pointy objects.

Paint is all flat. Black is only available flat so I ordered the gray flat as well.

That's why I would use one paint. Kirker Enduro Prime comes in white, gray and black. Any neutral color can me mixed and only one paint to spray. Cheap too. Jet Flex is expensive.
I sprayed the wheels on my 4x4 white several years ago. They still look new in Colorado snow, salt and off road abuse.
 
Southern Polyurethanes

I'm not an advertiser just a recommendation here.

That company sells an epoxy primer that lays between eggshell and satin depending on your gun distance and their grey matches Aero Classic Interiors leather grey really well. No need for a topcoat: 1. Their primers are really UV stable 2. the canopy is a UV blocker anyway

Prime anything you want that you won't be able to get to later. Shoot the cockpit area as a final step. Scotch brite scuffing is just fine for adhesion on both bare and painted surfaces. As a side note, that company also sells a water based oil/grease remover to use as a final cleaner. I was very skeptical, but it really is a superior clean. Wipe with your favorite thinner, then wipe a section again with the waterbased stuff and feel the difference! It has something to do with really well de-ionized water and the purity of the organic solvents.
 

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