What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Solo wing rivet (rv7)

FlyGuy65

Well Known Member
For those of you who riveted your wings solo, did you have them vertical in the jig, or flat on a bench? Particularly interested in bottom outboard skin.

Also, did You use Vans pattern (Inboard to outboard, somewhat L pattern), or entire aft spar first, or something else altogether?

Had great help on top skins. Solo on bottom inboard, which really was not an issue. Now planning how to do outboard bottom so I can hit the ground running when I get back to the shop.

Thanks!
 
I did the 10 bottom skins solo. I had them vertical in the holder. There was one row of rivets that was particularly challenging and recall having my son operate the gun on a handfull of rivets. Still have two smiley's under my wing to remind me. I thought the vertical orientation helped, as reaching up under the skin was more comfortable than if I had to reach in horizontal.

I followed Vans guidance on those and satisfied. Can't say if the 7 instructions would be similar.

Larry
 
Last edited:
I had a helper when I back rivet the top skin of my RV8. I did the bottom skin solo. For the outboard skin, I hung the wing vertical and peeled back the skin far enough to slide my arm inside to buck the rivets. I did a dry run using clecos and mark the sequence on the blue vinyl plastic so I won't forget.
 
I just did my right wing bottom skins solo. I basically followed Van's advice as far as pattern. I will say it is definitely a long sleeve job. I didn't think much of it at the time, but the next day I had some nice bruises on my forearms.

I used a table top and and the floor as far as placing the wing on to get my body in the right position to be able to hold the rivet gun and the bucking bar in the right place.

Good Luck
 
Wing jig

Wing jig.
I read lots of builder say it wasn't necessary. Maybe not but I could twist the wing in the jig even after top skins were riveted. Not much, but it would move. Glad I used it. Even bucking moved the wing a tiny bit. I checked it often riveting the bottom skins. In the end, they were perfect. Less than I could meausre with the 64th scale.

I used a helper whenever needed. My arms are big and short.

L pattern

Old tube sock. Cut the toe off and slide it on your bucking arm.

Tungsten bar. Make a shim so the bar will be perpendicular to the rear spar rivets. Tape a lanyard to it so it won't make a dent when you drop it.
 
Last edited:
Riveted the whole -4 solo, save for 10 rivets in the rear fuse... wings riveted in the jigs, sometimes using unorthodox methods ;)
Picture dated 1989...
 

Attachments

  • F0FDB52F-A112-42B0-B131-4A8669A3B890.jpeg
    F0FDB52F-A112-42B0-B131-4A8669A3B890.jpeg
    285.7 KB · Views: 140
Riveting the bottom wing skins, solo or with a partner, is surely The Test of how thoroughly the rib lightening holes were deburred. :D
 
What I did

I riveted my -4 wings entirely solo except a few..same as DeeCee. I like working solo , and most of my riveting was late evening so help wasn't easy to find then anyway. The leading edges were the most difficult, as I reached up through the spar holes and rib holes. I made one piece upper skins in lieu of the 2 piece. Upper skin first , lower inboard second, then the outboard last.All done in the jigs. My pic is 1994ish and my helper in the backround was best at sorting rivets, not yet ready for the bucking bar.
 

Attachments

  • Wing.jpg
    Wing.jpg
    303.5 KB · Views: 117
Back
Top