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Dehydrator

wirejock

Well Known Member
I'm assembling an engine dehydrator and a thought occurred. Yea, I know, pretty scary but it happens! :D
If I understand the system, air is sucked from the crankcase vent into the canister then out to blow back in the engine through the oil filler tube.
Here's my idea.
I would prefer one gadget to dry and heat.
How about heating the air so the dryer acts as an engine heater. I was thinking of running the supply through a section of metal conduit wrapped with a pipe heater and insulation. It wouldn't supply much heat but if running 24x7, it might be enough to keep the engine at a stable temp.
Totally wacky or potential good idea?
 
Is your energy free?

In that case, whatever floats your boat!

But warm air holds greater moisture.

(Not the critic, just points that popped up on quick reflection) :D
 
Warm air

Is your energy free?

In that case, whatever floats your boat!

But warm air holds greater moisture.

(Not the critic, just points that popped up on quick reflection) :D

Tiny 20A circuit in the rental T hangar.
Actually not concerned about the electricity.
Just seemed like a way to kill two birds.

Maybe heat the air coming out of the overflow and insulate the circuit supplying the filler tube. Dryer will do its part and hopefully dry warm air will flow back in. Probably get stone cold before passing back up.
 
Heat

At your elevation and winters I can appreciate why you want heat. Perhaps adding a removable cowling blanket like some do in Alaska would help. I have a heat pad attached to the oil sump. Maybe these two items will give you the engine block heat you are looking for.
 
Heat

At your elevation and winters I can appreciate why you want heat. Perhaps adding a removable cowling blanket like some do in Alaska would help. I have a heat pad attached to the oil sump. Maybe these two items will give you the engine block heat you are looking for.

I can get the heat using any of the cool ideas on VAF. Sump heater, cyl heater, forced air, heating blanket, etc. Cellular switch. All great solutions.

This excercise is just a game. I like tools with more than one purpose. It seemed like a neat way to dry and heat at the same time.
 
Air isn't really the best conductor of heat. How hot would you have to get it to keep the engine internals toasty on those cold Colorado nights?

Seems like it might be a lot, and not exactly energy efficient to leave it running full time.

So, I'll say yes, it might be a wacky idea...of course, plenty of wacky ideas work great, so good luck :)
 
Engine Dryer

I have the green one from ACSpruce. It pushes dry air into the oil blow off tube. That dry air fills crankcase and then exits through an open exhaust valve(s). I use rubber stoppers with 1/4 inch hole drilled in each to let the air exit the pipes while not letting a bunch of outside air, in. So maybe this is air path you want to use. I stay away from heat. Hot air holds a lot of moisture. Cold dry air would be ideal.
 
Wacky ideas

Air isn't really the best conductor of heat. How hot would you have to get it to keep the engine internals toasty on those cold Colorado nights?

Seems like it might be a lot, and not exactly energy efficient to leave it running full time.

So, I'll say yes, it might be a wacky idea...of course, plenty of wacky ideas work great, so good luck :)

Thx. Appreciate the support.
I'm building the dehydrator now. Pump is done. I had to disassemble the pump and install a 1/4" fitting where it sucks air then sealed it with RTV. Even with a fitting the pump wasn't sealed.
Waiting on other stuff. Cheapo clear gallon jug. Stealing Sweetie's metal strainer to put in the bottom. Already bought her a new one. Fittings I have already. The line from the crankcase vent will feed the bottom of the dehydrator. Any gunk will collect at the bottom of the jug. Strainer keeps the pellets clean. Top fitting feeds the intake of the pump. Output of the pump is two 1/8" lines combined to one 1/4" then to a tube feeding the oil dipstick tube.
It's not a huge CFM but leaving it on 24x7 will provide a constant dry flow.

The heat concept comes next. I still think a 24x7 flow of dried and warmed air will have some effect. Planning to run it in the shop and shoot some temps and humidity readings.
I know it won't counter our serious cold but if it takes the edge off and maintains a stable temp, that's good for the engine. I don't see "toasty" as a good thing unless it stays toasty. If the metal goes through repeated warm/cold cycles, that's not good. Stable temp, even if it's not warm is where I'm heading.
 
FYI, Larry, recirculation will contaminate your beads in a year. And stink badly when regenerating. I recommend a 20 l/min purge with ambient before going on the desiccant, then a 2-3 l/min flow will purge the engine with dryer air in about 40 min - I use a 60 min timer to be sure.

You would need much greater mass flow to actually heat the engine, and would still not overcome the external cooling from the oil. Do a few calculations based on the Tanis or Reiff wattage and the truth shall be revealed.
 
I use 15 lbs of silica gel beads, don’t bother to recirculate anymore…I just pump in dehydrated air through the dipstick and it exhausts out the separator. I have to change the beads about twice during the winter and 5-7 times during the rest of the year. I pull the beads when the humidity in the chamber gets to about 12%.
 
Recirculating system I made.
Beads last about 4 weeks in the summer and 8 weeks in the winter.
 

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Recharge

FYI, Larry, recirculation will contaminate your beads in a year. And stink badly when regenerating. I recommend a 20 l/min purge with ambient before going on the desiccant, then a 2-3 l/min flow will purge the engine with dryer air in about 40 min - I use a 60 min timer to be sure.

You would need much greater mass flow to actually heat the engine, and would still not overcome the external cooling from the oil. Do a few calculations based on the Tanis or Reiff wattage and the truth shall be revealed.

Hmmm. Sounds like a cheapo thrift store toaster oven may be on my Christmas List.
 
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