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Scott's RV14A: N52XL

Flaps Painted!

The instructions say to paint the flaps then install the hardware. So, yesterday and today, that's what I did.

Process is pretty simple:

Maroon Scotchbrite the shiny AL

Painting Flaps Maroon Scotchbrite.jpg
Painting Flaps Scotchbrited.jpg

Degrease

Painting Flaps SEM Degreased.jpg

Apply Wash Primer

Painting Flaps Wash Primer.jpg

Painting Flaps Wash Primer Applied.jpg

Wait 2 hours, apply Urethane Primer

Painting Flaps Urethane Primer.jpg

Painting Flaps Epoxy PRimer Applied.jpg

Wait 16 hours, sand urethane primer to get rid of nubs, bugs and any bad peel

Painting Flaps Epoxy Primer Sanded.jpg

Hang back up in better painting position and paint

Painting Flaps Paint.jpg

Painting Flaps PAinted.jpg

Easy peasy
 

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Very nice work! Similar to my paint area of the future.

Painting indoors is best, but the overspray gets EVERYWHERE and is a real PITA. I find that outdoors under a roof is acceptable if not windy. I have done it in my driveway, but it's more exposed to the elements which can be a problem. So far, my roofed porch works well. Wheel pants, fairings, wingtips and now, flaps all painted and ready for install. Ailerons and tail feathers next. I find the wash primer and urethane primer difficult to apply without lots of orange peel. Although I used the fast reducer because it was all I had. And, with ambient temps at 90+ yesterday, that probably contributed to the issues. #320 got rid of the peel, though and the paint looks very good with little peel and NO RUNS!
 
SPinner and Panel Progress

Cut my spinner today.

Spinner Trial Mounted.jpg

While waiting for the epoxy to cure and for assistance mounting the prop, I finished cutting my panel and installing the BO'd Dynon HDX1100's. Thanks to this forum, my countersunk holes in the 0.060" are not all sloppy and raggy looking.

Panel w:HDX1100's.jpg
 
Prop Mounted!

This seems like a simple task. However, like most things airplane; don't be fooled.

1. Make sure the starter ring gear is oriented correctly on crankshaft flange. My flange was marked with a '0' in black marker. The ring gear was stamped with a '0'. This is important for proper mounting of the prop and for timing later.

2. Remove the steel plug in the front of the crankshaft for constant speed props. Otherwise, your prop pitch can't be varied. Lycoming told me many builders have forgotten to do this.

3. There are six mounting bolts for my prop (Hartzell 2 blade AL constant speed/no feathering). The flange on the prop where the six mounting bolts protrude have recesses to accept the four locating bushings on the crankshaft flange. One bolt does not have this recess. Make sure this bolt is mounted to one of the female threaded inserts without a locating bushing or the prop flange will not fully mate to the crankshaft flange.

4. Get a 3/4" crowsfoot wrench to attach to your torque wrench since the prop mounting bolts cannot be accessed with a socket. Use the formula provided by Hartzell to determine what setting your wrench should be set to to make up for the longer wrench length created by adding the crowsfoot.

Prop Torquing Bolts.jpg

Prop Mounted.jpg

Prop Mounted w:Spinner Primed.jpg
 
Prop Spinner Done

Painted the spinner and got it mounted. I might replace the phillips 8-32 machine screws with socket hex. I think the socket hex are a bit slimmer in profile, much easier to install with a motorized driver and less likely to get bunged up.

Prop Spinner Painted Installed Front.jpg

Prop Spinner Painted Installed Side View.jpg
 
Skybolt Install

I am using Skybolts for the upper cowl attachment in lieu of hinges. I will use a hinge on the lower cowl at the firewall since this pin is easily accessed once the upper cowl is removed.

The first step, as I am doing it, locates the lowest Skybolt on the upper cowl at the firewall by positioning it in line with the Skybolts at the split line of the two cowl halves. The only issue with this is the second Skybolt above the last one on the upper cowl interferes with the upper engine mount if the Skybolts are positioned at the 'stock' 3-1/2" spacing. So, the second Skybolt up from the bottom must either be positioned farther or closer to the last Skybolt. Farther means a distance of 4", so I decided to make the second 'bolt' closer.

Skybolt Install Port Side at Split.jpg

Skybolt Install Port Engine Mount.jpg
 
Skybolt Install Ch 1

Now that the Skybolt flange has been located that will hold the port side lower corner of the top cowl the rest of the flanges can be located. The second one up from the corner is dependent on the upper engine mount as previously described and is 2-1/2" away center to center. Locating the rest depends on spacing to the centerline of the cowl. Since I want closer than 'stock' at 3-1/2" to help prevent bulging of the cowl in flight, I spaced mine at 3-1/8". This makes it so there is one Skybolt dead center on the cowl.

Port side complete, except for riveting. Tomorrow, starboard side. BTW, I put a 0.032" shim under the Skybolt flanges all along the firewall to account for the carbon fiber tape I will bond to the outside and inside of the aft cowl for stiffening purposes (more bulging protection as some have reported even with the 3-1/8" Skybolt spacing)

Skybolts port side spaced at 3-1:8%22.jpg
 
Firewall Skybolts Ready to Rivet

I located all the Skybolts for the firewall today. Countersunk all holes and anoldined all 19. I will rivet tomorrow.

One thing slowed me a bit. You should be careful that all rivets see full thicknesses of aluminum. Since the Skybolt flanges have a bent end to accommodate the next flange, if you cut the flanges too short, there could be 'air' between the firewall and the flange. This happened on three for me. Not too bad, but cost me and hour or so.

Skybolts Firewall Anoldined Countersunk.jpg
 
Firewall Skybolts Riveted -4

Got them all riveted except four. These are shown below and I cannot figure a way to buck them. The one I did only got halfway in. Just can't get a buck bar in there. Might have to fabricate a bar that just fits so it reacts against the engine mount. Blind rivets don't seem to come in -3 sizes that are one enough. This location requires an AD3-4.5.

Skybolt Flanges riveted -4.jpg

Skybolt Flange Blind Rivets.jpg
 
Cowl Forward Fitment

I started trying to get the cowl to fit in accordance with the plans today. Lots of on and off, sanding, on and off, sanding....

But, even with virtually no gap at the aft end of the cowl and firewall with everything centered left and right, the gap between the cowl and the spinner mount at the top (red arrow) is double the gap at the bottom (green arrow). But, the plans say this should be reversed, ie, bigger gap at the bottom so when the engine droops the gap evens out. I can't figure out why the gap is larger at the top or how to reverse the situation.

Any ideas appreciated. Oh, the spinner mount is square and flat.

Cowl Foreward Fit Initially.jpg
 
Cowl Fitting

My cowl doesn't fit the firewall exactly on the port side. So, by heating it to 200F or so, hopefully, it will submit while strapped down. We'll see. Getting it to a uniform 200F has not been easy. Light bulbs inside the cowl of up to 250w got it to 125F. A heat gun (1100F max at the outlet) stuck in the air inlet in front got it to 110F. A heat gun stuck in the port exhaust outlet got it to 116F. So, the Rube Goldberg arrangement below is what I settled on. Not pretty, but it worked. Those are two 250w lamps and a heat gun at max output of 1100F and max blow. Well, it got the temp of the cowl in the area where the fit was a problem to 200F-ish. We'll see if it conforms to the firewall shape after cooling.

Cowl Heating System.jpg
 
Carbon Fiber Reinforcing Cowl

I don't want my cowl to 'bulge' between the Skybolts, so I decreased the spacing to 3" and now am reinforcing the edge with carbon fiber.

Got the fiber today from Spruce.

Epoxied in place and tomorrow I will fit and drill holes!

Carbon Fiber Cowl Reinforcement.jpg

I triangulated the Skybolt flange holes onto the fuse so that if the magnets don't work, triangulation will. Magnets are where the arrows point.

Skybolt Triangulation.jpg
 
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Skybolt Holes Drilling Begins

The triangulation technique for drilling the opaque cowl exactly where the Skybolt flanges are located works the trick! So far... The Cleko alignment discs that come with the Skybolt kit are working perfectly. Not only do they locate the holes for drilling, but by putting a 6D nail in the center of the disc with magnet, it allows for very precise marking for the triangulation. The three pairs of parallel lines provide a precise location for drilling the holes. I can't wait to see if the 3 inch spacing of the Skybolts combined with the carbon fiber reinforcement prevents bulging between the flanges in flight.

Skybolt Holes Drilling Begins.jpg
 
When adding carbon (any cloth really) in thin strips it is often beneficial to cut the cloth on the 45 as half the cloth you have added is not doing much to prevent bulging. Also add a layer of peel ply to the outside of the carbon as it greatly improves the finish. Be sure to add a layer of glass to the outside (as the last layer) to prevent an electrolytic corrosion cell from forming.
The proof of the pudding of your triangulation technique will only be apparent when all of the holes are drilled full size, be prepared for some disappointment ...
 
When adding carbon (any cloth really) in thin strips it is often beneficial to cut the cloth on the 45 as half the cloth you have added is not doing much to prevent bulging. Also add a layer of peel ply to the outside of the carbon as it greatly improves the finish. Be sure to add a layer of glass to the outside (as the last layer) to prevent an electrolytic corrosion cell from forming.
The proof of the pudding of your triangulation technique will only be apparent when all of the holes are drilled full size, be prepared for some disappointment ...
Pete,
Where were you before I cut and epoxied the carbon cloth? :eek: I should have realized this myself, though.

I guess we'll never know how much better it would have been had I done it the way you describe, cuz there's no going back, now. Well, I could grind it all off (not), or get another top cowl (not). My hope is that the modulus is sufficiently increased (7 times that of the fiberglass according to D.Paule's calculations) and the reduced spacing of the flanges (3" vs 3-1/2") that bulging will be minimal. If not, I will just concentrate on looking beyond the cowl for bogeys.

Also, I forgot to start the drilling in the center of the cowl at the top and work my way to the outside like I did for every other set of holes on the plane. Duh. The first hole drilled was at the bottom on the port side. But, at least I realized my mistake before drilling the rest. The hole was off by about one diameter. Epoxy closed and drill again.

Skybolt Hole Wrong Location.jpg
 
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First Five Skybolts Installed

Got the first five on top installed, but not adjusted for height, yet. But, I figured out a process that seems to keep them aligned with the pilot holes so the next 14 should be a breeze. :rolleyes: Yes, I'm sitting on a wood floor. :D

I also figured out that the little springy retainers better be hard in the groove of the cylinder. Otherwise, the cylinder just spins when the quarter turn fastener is rotated. This could be a huge problem as the quarter turn fastener would not be removable!

Skybolts Top 5 Installed.jpg
 
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Upper Cowl Skybolts Installed

Installed the remaining Skybolts for the top cowl today. All the holes lined up perfectly, but I did use the floating 'keepers' on the three side bolts each side just in case things did not line up, but I probably didn't need to. However, for reference I would not drill the pilot holes all at once. I would do the top five, then drill the rest from center out. This is because the Skybolts hold the cowl tighter than the clekos and the alignment could slip a bit. I didn't find this to be a problem, but for safety sake, I would do it this way if I did it again.

Upper Cowl Kybolts Installed Port Side.jpg

Upper Cowl Skybolts Installed Front 3:4.jpg

But, now I have another problem: I was planning to use the hinges to fasten the lower cowl to the firewall and upper cowl. But, the firewall hinge pin is trapped by the Skybolt flanges. I know I have seen ships with this arrangement and wonder how the pin is extracted. Any clues welcome.

Lower Cowl Hinge Pin Captured.jpg

Lower Cowl Hinge Pin Trapped.jpg
 
Lower Cowl Hinge Pin Solution

I didn't think the firewall hinge pin for the lower cowl would be removable with the Skybolts installed near the engine mount. But, it can be removed since there is clearance between the second Skybolt from the bottom and the engine mount.

Lower Cowl Hinge Pin Removal 7.jpg

It helps to relieve some of the flange for the two Skybolts where the hinge pin slides past. The pin can be removed without this, but it makes for less chance bending the hinge pin.

Lower Cowl Hinge Pin Removal 5.jpg

Lower Cowl Hinge Pin Removal 6.jpg
 
A Satisfying Day-Upper and Lower Cowls Clekoed

Got the upper and lower cowl's piano hinges drilled and clekoed today. Very satisfying!

Cowls Upper and Lower Clekoed.jpg
 
That’s great looking work. Just curious, how does the weight of the Skybolt system compare to the hinge system?

Thanks! Got real good at removing replacing cowl! On off 30 times, at least.

Good question. I’ll weigh the assemblies and compare to hinges.
 
That’s great looking work. Just curious, how does the weight of the Skybolt system compare to the hinge system?

So, I put on 19 Skybolts on the top cowl firewall at 3" spacing. Of course if you space them at 3.5" there would be fewer. They weigh 13.8 grams each or 262.2 grams total

The hinge and pin weighs 195.8 grams

The difference is 66.4 grams or 0.146 lbs

For the convenience of the Skybolts I will gladly diet the 0.146 lbs off!

Glad you asked.

S
 
Cowl Horizontal Hinge Pin Cover Install

I decided not to use the OEM horizontal cowl hinge pin attachment method. Aerosport makes a very tasty oval billet aluminum cover that I saw on a fellow builder's plane and decided I had to have it.

Fabrication is pretty straightforward.
1. Cut a hole in the cowls so the billet cover fits snug/loosely.
2. Wax the back of the cover
3. Tape it into position flush with the outside of the cowls
4. Wipe a goodly amount of flox onto the back of the cover and about 1" onto the cowls around the perimeter. After this hardens, this will be the recess the cover fits into.
5. Lay on three layers of carbon fiber onto the back to create a support for the cover. Cure.
6. Remove waxed cover (This may take some doing depending on your waxing skills)
7. Do bodywork to make the cover fit the cowls exactly.

Cowl Hinge Pin Cover ROughed In.jpg

Cowl Hinge Pin Cover Trial Fit.jpg

Cowl Hinge Pin Cover Buried in Flox.jpg

Tomorrow I will sand off the excess flox, remove the covers, and cut the upper and lower cowls apart and get ready to rivet the piano hinges on to the upper and lower cowls, then complete the bodywork on the cowl inlets.
 
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Cowl Hinge Pin Cover, contain

Sanded the bodywork down and mounted nut plates.

Cowl Hinge Pin Cover Sanded.jpg

Cowl Hinge Pin Cover Intake View.jpg


Had a need for some bling so I got the fuel drain covers from JDAir. Very tasty, well engineered items, as usual, from JD. Thanks JD.

Fuel Drain Uncovered.jpg

Fuel Drain Covered.jpg
 
Cowls Sealed

Finished match drilling the piano hinges that mate the upper and lower cowls and sealed the inner surfaces of both upper and lower cowls with epoxy.
Tomorrow, I will rivet the hinges to the cowls and prep them for paint.

Cowl Lower, Epoxy Sealed.jpg

Cowl, Upper Epoxy Sealed.jpg
 
Top and Bottom Cowls Installed

Got the hinges riveted to the top and bottom cowls today. No biggie, but getting it all on the front of the plane was a worry. Shouldn't have been. Used my lift to hold the rear of the bottom cowl in position while I lifted the nose and pushed a table underneath to hold it. Pinned the rear of the bottom cowl to hold. Then, placed the top on top and lo and behold the pins went in to the horizontal hinges with no issues at all. Nice. Time for a beer. This was a two week project.

Cowls Top and Bottom Installed Front.jpg

Cowls Top and BOttom Installed Port 3:4.jpg
 
Top Cowl Inlet Ramps Day 1

Glued the inlet ramps to the top cowl today and started the bodywork.

Cowl Top Inlet Ramp Epoxied.jpg

Did I say this was a two week project? Not quite. Started the Skybolts on 8-3-22 and not done with the cowls, yet. Prolly more like a six week project! The cowls are fairly challenging to get them right. Oh, I forgot the 4 weeks I spent getting the Cessna oil door customization done. So, cowls were 2-1/2 months sans paint. That will be another two days.

Whatever it takes.
 
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Cowl Bodywork Completed

Got all the bodywork done on the cowls with the side pins hidden under the RV14A plaque. Everything fits well and the pins and Skybolts all go in with no issues.

Cowl Finished with Bodywork.jpg

Attached the baffles.

Baffles Attached.jpg

Cowl Lower Baffles.jpg

Started fitting the snorkel. It was too wide by 3/4". So, I cut it in half and took a section out in the middle and epoxied/floxed it back together. After some bodywork, it looks pretty good. Primed it today and will paint it tomorrow.

Snorkel Puttied.jpg
 

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Snorkel Finally Ready for Paint

I sanded the filler off today and found more imperfections, so the anal in me had to prime it again and fill the remaining voids before painting. I know, can't see this thing unless the cowl is off, but I'd know it wasn't right.....right? Hey, it's a handbuilt, custom, hot rod airplane.....why skimp?



Snorkel Primed.jpg
 
I know, can't see this thing unless the cowl is off, but I'd know it wasn't right.....right? Hey, it's a handbuilt, custom, hot rod airplane.....why skimp?

Because you have a finite number of days left to fly, and they are quickly dwindling? :eek: (Just kidding, just kidding! It looks great!)
 
Snorkel Finally Painted!

I forgot to show the interior of the snorkel. I smoothed out the rough fiberglass at the joint in the center and also at the alternate air intake. Laminar flow in here should get me an additional 70-80 hp, at least. ;)

Snorkel Interior.jpg

Paint applied. Snorkel is fit for duty.

Snorkel Painted.jpg
 
Snorkel Mounted!

After shaving some glass from inside the snorkel, the K&N filter fit nicely. All mounted up and ready to flow some air!

Snorkel Mounted Front.jpg

Snorkel Mounted Side.jpg
 
Exhaust Roughed In

Got the exhaust mounted today. The plans are a bit rough in this section and could use some work IMHO. For example, the length of the hangars on the aft end of the exhaust are dependent on where the Adel clamps go on the engine mount. So, exhaust should be put together first, then the distance from the aft end of the exhaust to the Adel clamp can be measured and the mount appropriately sized. Van's has the builder assemble the mounts before doing this and this can lead to an incorrect mount length. Ask me how I know.

Also, the spring loaded exhaust pipe attachment should be connected to the exhaust header on the plane rather than on the bench. This way the clearances to stuff that might get in the way of the three spring loaded bolts can be seen before assembly.

Exhaust Roughed In.jpg

Found a 'gotcha' today as well.

The plans have you modify the heater vent on the starboard side to close off the bottom of the vent that was mounted to the firewall way back when the FWF construction began before the engine was mounted.

The problem with this is that the two rivets that are supposed to be drilled out cannot be reached now that everything is in the way. Also, even if these two rivets are drilled out somehow, getting new ones in will be impossible or nearly so.

My solution was to glue the cover onto the outside of the vent with fuel tank sealant and after that cures, RTV. It's not structural, and even if the glued on cover comes loose, it can't hurt anything down there and the result is more heat going to the starboard side until glued back again.

Vent Heater Pass.jpg
 
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Exhausts Mounted Finally

Got the exhausts mounted with the heater muffs today. Reamed out the EGT holes in each header before mounting just to make sure the filings didn't go anywhere they shouldn't. Attached the two rear EGT probes.

Exhausts w: Heat Muffs Starboard.jpg

Exhausts Port.jpg
 
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Heater Scat Tubes Installed

No real issues with these scat tubes, except I recommend not cutting them to length according to the plans, instead cut to length based on the location of the muffs. I found that most are the lengths the plans specify, but not all. Some need to be longer and if they are cut too short, there's not enough extra to fix the problem.

Heater Scat Tubes Starboard.jpg
 
Adel Clamping Today

Adel clamped a bunch today. Hooray! I love these things....Not! Actually, not so bad with a the right tools. The JIS phillips style screwdriver works pretty good and doesn't cam out too much if one takes it nice and slow.

Got one oil line to the cooler clamped and the fuel line to the red cube clamped and RTV'd.

Tomorrow, I will Adel clamp the other oil cooler line.

Oil Line to Cooler Adel Clamped.jpg

Fuel Line to Red Cube Adel Clamped.jpg
 
Could not Adel clamp the other oil cooler line today. Ran out of correct size clamps. Ordered more.

Instead, I fitted lower cowl to see if baffle seals were going to cover the gaps required. Nope.

The starboard side lower baffle seal doesn't reach the baffle on that side. I will fab another one when the silicone seal material arrives from Spruce.

The additional reach needed is shown on the photo below in 32nds inches. Quite a gap. Unusual for Van's to miss by this much. First time, really.

Baffle Seal Lower Cowl Starboard.jpg
 
'Closed Cell Foam' glued to top cowl

Here it is bonded in position ready to do duty blocking air from going over the top of the governor.

BTW, I had to buy a 12" x 16" piece of this foam and have enough left over to do another 3 or 4 cowls for anyone interested. PayPal me $10 + the shipping cost and it's yours.

Cowl Upper CLosed Cell Foam Sealer.jpg
 
Wire Routing Progress

Started routing the ignition leads, CHT and EGT wires from the sources to hook ups.

Wire Routing Starboard.jpg

Wire Routing Port Side.jpg
 
More Adel Clamps!

It has been noted that when using the sleeved hoses to the oil cooler, these hoses should be firmly Adel clamped to avoid vibration causing fatigue failure of the oil cooler fittings and catastrophic oil dumps in flight.

Dooly noted!

Hence the Adel clamps shown on the lower and upper oil cooler lines.

Oil Cooler Lower Clamp.jpg

Oil Cooler Line Upper Clamp.jpg
 
It has been noted that when using the sleeved hoses to the oil cooler, these hoses should be firmly Adel clamped to avoid vibration causing fatigue failure of the oil cooler fittings and catastrophic oil dumps in flight.

Use steel fittings. They are unlikely to suffer fatigue failure, rarely gall the threads in the cooler bungs, and they are fireproof.
 
Use steel fittings. They are unlikely to suffer fatigue failure, rarely gall the threads in the cooler bungs, and they are fireproof.

I’m not sure the fittings are what fail but the male AN fittings on the cooler. I could be wrong.
 
Cowl Intake Adjustment

My port cowl air intake was below the air filter. So, today I adjusted it upwards with epoxy/401 so when the silicone seal is attached the seal will lie flat on the air filter housing. Of course I will need to grind/sand away some of the fiberglass underneath to make room for the seal and aluminum keeper.

Cowl Intake Port Side .jpg
 
Oil Door Bodywork

The elevation of the cowl to oil door was good on the forward side, but on the aft side the cowl was lower by enough to bug me every time I checked my oil (read every flight). So, today I adjusted the elevation to match the door better. Now, I'm happy. After all, it's the details.

Cowl Oil Door Aft Elevation Bodywork.jpg
 
Cowl Seal Port Side

I added some epoxy/401 to the cowl on the port side to accommodate the silicone seal and keeper as I mentioned in my post a couple days ago. But, I didn't add enough and the seal still bulges upward when installed. So, I added six layers of carbon fiber cloth so I can grind away another 3/32" of material from underneath.

I hope this does the trick.

Cowl Intake Port Side Carbon Layers Front.jpg

Cowl Intake Port Side Carbon Layers Rear.jpg
 
Cowl Seal Port Roughed In

The added carbon fiber epoxy layer did the trick to get the elevation of the port cowl intake raised enough. I ground off another 3/32" from underneath and now the seal lays flat on the baffle once installed. This is the rough look before doing the bodywork to make it pretty. That comes tomorrow.

Cowl Installed with Baffles and Seals Front.jpg

Cowl INtake Port Seal Roughed In.jpg

The starboard intake seal doesn't lay as flat as the port seal, but it takes almost no downward force to move it down against the baffle. I will leave it alone as I think the force of incoming wind will lay it down on the baffle. I tried heating the seal and clamping it to make it straight, but that did not work.

Cowl Starboard Intake Seal.jpg
 
Building Up Starboard Intake Elevation

I decided that the starboard intake might benefit from 4 layers of carbon fiber to increase the elevation of the silicone seal. This might allow the seal to lay flatter as I noticed the elevations of the cowl and baffle were at about the same elevation. This makes the seal bend upward as it overlaps the baffle, possibly creating the fold. I'll find out tomorrow.

Cowl Starboard Intake Carbon Fiber Build up.jpg
 
Lower Cowl Bodywork Completed

I attached the lower cowl with baffle seals in place yesterday. The change in elevation of the seal on the starboard side improved the way the seal lays on the baffle. Nice and flat, now. However, this had more to do with changing how the seal was attached to the cowl.

Cowl Lower Bodywork Primer.jpg

I ordered some more silicone seal material from Spruce because I didn't like the way the port side fit. It comes today, so 'tomorrow' the lower cowl should be finished re fit of the seals. We'll see.
 
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