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Ideas on lubricating throttle cable.

istrumit

Well Known Member
My throttle cable (a quadrant mount) is stiffer than I like.

I suspect that it needs grease in the cable sleeving.

Ideas on how to do that without a big removal job ?
 
I used a motorcycle doohickey that clamps on the cable and allows you to spray lube into the cable. It wasn?t a perfect solution but it got the job done as my throttle cable was sticking and this solved it.
 
Choose your lubricant carefully. The cable may freeze in the cold winter till you fully preheat the cabin.
 
New is good

If you have the vans green cables lubricating probably won?t work typically they start to fray inside and get harder and harder to move, best solution replacement , On the new install try not to have the cable rubbing up against anything that seems to accelerate the Fraying process
 
Might as well replace it.

You?ll be better off replacing it. It's an easy job. Undo the engine end. Loosen lock nuts on throttle, including the lock nut on the clevis that attaches it to the throttle arm. Chuch up the loosened engine end in your electric drill and back it loose from the clevis. Attach a line on the cockpit end and pull it out. (After all the adells, etc. are free. Attach the new cable to the string and pull it back in. Reverse process to thread it all back together. Really a pretty job.
 
Sure it?s the cable?

I recently discovered that the stiffness I felt at the throttle lever, which I assumed to be caused by the cable, was originating at the accelerator pump plunger (and easily fixed with a squirt of lube).

So I’m inclined to suggest that before procuring a new cable, if you haven’t already checked, it may be worthwhile disconnecting the cable at the engine end to verify that it’s the cable causing the stiffness and not your fuel metering device.
 
Not so fast....

You’ll be better off replacing it. It's an easy job. Undo the engine end. Loosen lock nuts on throttle, including the lock nut on the clevis that attaches it to the throttle arm. Chuch up the loosened engine end in your electric drill and back it loose from the clevis. Attach a line on the cockpit end and pull it out. (After all the adells, etc. are free. Attach the new cable to the string and pull it back in. Reverse process to thread it all back together. Really a pretty job.

Not necessarily easy depending on your firewall penetration method. I used the eyeball style pass throughs and getting those tiny screws in place in the confines of the firewall recess behind the 540 (which is what I and the OP have) is enough to give you nightmares. So much so, cable replacement would be my option of last resort. YMMV....
 
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