Oil change question

[dmattmul]

I do have the quick drain show in post above and highly recommend.

[agent4573]

Originally Posted by MarkCFI

I went to change the oil in my RV-4 O-320 E2D today and after warming it up and pulling the cowl I didn’t have an appropriate tool to remove the 1/2” square oil plug.

This would be the first time I’ve changed the oil myself so was caught a bit empty handed.

Is there a socket available for that? Or is it usually done with a 1/2” open ended wrench? I didn’t have that in the hangar either.

Mine takes a 9/16" open ended wrench. If you don't keep a set at the hanger, be sure to bring both sizes. Also, with the appropriate sealant, there doesn't need to be a crazy amount of torque on that plug. Due to the exhaust placement, I can't fit a quick drain plug, so I've resigned myself to removing and installing that plug 40-50 times before the engine goes in for overhaul. I'm hoping the threads last that long.

[RV8JD]

Originally Posted by agent4573

Due to the exhaust placement, I can't fit a quick drain plug, so I've resigned myself to removing and installing that plug 40-50 times before the engine goes in for overhaul. I'm hoping the threads last that long.

The builder of my airplane (with an IO-360-M1B) replaced the oil drain plug with this fitting:

AN816-10D NIPPLE - FLARED TUBE AND PIPE THREAD

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ickkey=8366273

and cap:

AN929-10 FLARED CAP ASSEMBLY # 10 ALUMINUM

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ickkey=8497184

Just remove the cap to drain the oil. Will save the oil sump drain plug threads. A buddy saw my setup and installed those components to his engine too.

I tried to fit a Fumoto quick drain, but the intake pipe was in the way so couldn't do it.

[GregMac]

Take any two half inch drive sockets, weld em together (just rod welding is Ok) then you can use you socket ratchet or extensions etc

[agent4573]

Originally Posted by RV8JD

The builder of my airplane (with an IO-360-M1B) replaced the oil drain plug with this fitting:

AN816-10D NIPPLE - FLARED TUBE AND PIPE THREAD

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ickkey=8366273

and cap:

AN929-10 FLARED CAP ASSEMBLY # 10 ALUMINUM

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ickkey=8497184

Just remove the cap to drain the oil. Will save the oil sump drain plug threads. A buddy saw my setup and installed those components to his engine too.

I tried to fit a Fumoto quick drain, but the intake pipe was in the way so couldn't do it.

That's a pretty good idea. I'll get a steel one on order and see if it fits during the next oil change. It's way too close to the exhaust for me to feel comfortable putting an aluminum fitting there.

[RV8JD]

Originally Posted by agent4573

That's a pretty good idea. I'll get a steel one on order and see if it fits during the next oil change. It's way too close to the exhaust for me to feel comfortable putting an aluminum fitting there.

FWIW, I have the AL fitting and cap and it's worked well for 1280 hours so far. No signs of any heat damage with the IO-360-M1B.

I have a loop of safety wire wrapped around the cap, as seen in the pic below. It takes many turns of the cap before any oil begins to leak out. I've always found the cap tight when removing it for oil changes. Use two wrenches when removing the cap, one to hold the fitting and one to remove the cap.

[agent4573]

Pic shows what I'm working with. The half-raven return is too close as well, but I was able to fit a heat shield in there so there's some comfort level there. The other drain dumps basically onto the exhaust. I'll do some test fitting during the next oil change and see if it's worth pursuing.

[rockwoodrv9]

Originally Posted by agent4573

Pic shows what I'm working with. The half-raven return is too close as well, but I was able to fit a heat shield in there so there's some comfort level there. The other drain dumps basically onto the exhaust. I'll do some test fitting during the next oil change and see if it's worth pursuing.

After looking at your picture, you probably have a nice smoke system after each oil change for a few minutes.

Thats tough to make work. I would suggest putting an elbow on to move it outside the exhaust but it looks pretty tight to be able to spin the elbow on. I know there are some pretty small brass fittings that may work but may be more trouble than it is worth. Good luck.

[OKAV8r]

similar conflict on my 4 pipe exhaust. I replaced the plug with a 45 deg street-ell, then was able to put a quick drain into that.

[agent4573]

Originally Posted by OKAV8r

similar conflict on my 4 pipe exhaust. I replaced the plug with a 45 deg street-ell, then was able to put a quick drain into that.

I tried putting a 90 degree elbow in when I first noticed the quick drain wouldn't fit, only downside is I have to drop the exhaust to install it. Maybe at annual.