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SW Fuel Sender Install Question

O

osaleh

Active Member
Hi,

Does anyone have exact measurments of SW float type fuel sender arm length and bend length for an RV7A tank? i tried to follow van's instructions of total arm length of about 6", 3" then then bend then another 3" (according to DWG 16A), but the OHMS measurment does not come to the 32 Full -240 empty. Mine is approx 247 empty (basically it bottoms out) and 29 full (top out). I tried bending this arm that holds the float several times, but no success. Also, when had the tank up in the jig, the float rotates (falls) to the side. it will not stay as it should. How are we suppposed to make it stay in place and not rotate?

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I think you missed the second bend in the wire. You bend 3/4" or so and it is supposed to go through the sender to stop it from rotating. It is easy to miss...but it is on the drawings. Have another look if I am not being clear. I am pretty sure you can get a new wire from Vans...you will need one because yours will be too short.
hope this helps..
 
Nylon Bushing!

There is a 90 degree bend where the sender rod extends out of the sender axis.
It is clearly visible in your second picture, the little nylon bushing is empty.
That 90 degree bend will keep it from rotating sideways and will extend out of that bushing.
 
Ahhhh. thank you.

man, the things I miss. Thank you. BTW, did you get the correct OHMS reading VANs calls out for, having bent like they show? 3" from float then 90 degree bend then another 3" for the main rod that goes into the slot?
 
Ohms are relative

What kind of fuel gauge to you plan on using? If it's an electronic gauge or one integrated into an EFIS, the exact Ohms don't matter. You will go through a calibration routine to set your fuel gauge to match you sender's actual resistance. Since your range is 29 to 247, you have plenty of range to use for calibration.

On the other hand, if you plan to use Van's gauges, you will need to find out if they can be calibrated.
 
I have an RV-7 and I have a few leak, looks like it is coming form a few of the screws that hold that round plate on where the sending unit attaches to. I discovered some of the screws were loose and I tightened them, anyhow i found this on my annual, does anyone think that I should replace the gasket or just keep an eye on it since the screws were loose? Thanks for any advice.
 
If it wasn't leaking from the gasket, you are probably Ok. Use a dab of Fuel Lube in the screw holes to keep fuel from seeping past the screws. That said, I'd replace the gasket anytime I remove the plate or if the screws had loosened enough to let it leak under the gasket.

However, I think you have another concern. How did you get loose screws? The nutplates should lock them so that they won't back out under normal conditions. If you tapped the nutplates, then you should replace them; this is one place where you don't want screws backing out for any reason.
 
Thanks for the advice from everyone, i will replace the gasket and also use some fuel lube on the screws, I ordered the gaskets from Vans.
 
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