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Stainless Heater Valves

Mconner7

Well Known Member
While I have my motor off I am thinking it’s a good time to replace the original aluminum heater valves with Stainless.

Spruce lists them for $235, anyone have a better source?

Does Aircraft Innovations sell them directly?
 
I've got one on the shelf I'm not going to use. I'll take $125 for it and include snail mail shipping conus if you want it.

Full disclosure, The reason I'm not using it is that I didn't like the way you had to control it with a cable on the firewall side. I went with the triangle shaped one that you can control from the cold side.
 
While I have my motor off I am thinking it’s a good time to replace the original aluminum heater valves with Stainless.

Spruce lists them for $235, anyone have a better source?

Does Aircraft Innovations sell them directly?

Spruce list the pair ( for the -10) as $235. But individual ones cabin side controlled are 105 each.
 
I've got one on the shelf I'm not going to use. I'll take $125 for it and include snail mail shipping conus if you want it.

Full disclosure, The reason I'm not using it is that I didn't like the way you had to control it with a cable on the firewall side. I went with the triangle shaped one that you can control from the cold side.




Interested but would love more info on that you used….any links?

Mark
 
Sure, The one I used is just the triangle one from Spruce.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/heaterbypass2.php?clickkey=89272

It seems to have a couple of drawbacks compared to the square one;

the flapper valve isn't really as robust and I'm pretty sure the seal isn't going to be as good

You can't really direct the waste air where you want it when it's closed, it just pukes air out opposite where it goes in with no flange to connect a scat tube or anything else to deflect it. Based on that, I definitely wouldn't orient it so the discharge is pointed at a battery or magneto or whatever.

But like I said, the plus that made me want to use it is that the control cable attached to the cold side so you don't have to mess around with yet another cable routing through the firewall.
 
SNIP>>>

You can't really direct the waste air where you want it when it's closed, it just pukes air out opposite where it goes in with no flange to connect a scat tube or anything else to deflect it. SNIP

What I did with the triangle type valves. I used a piece of Kool Mat between the valves and the firewall, holes cut out to match the valve outlet. I left the mat long with the excess going vertical above the valves. This excess then laps over the front of the valves, directing the hot air (valves closed to the cabin) down to the bottom of the cowl. This solved the problem of summer time dumping heat muff air directly at the engine - and engine driven fuel pump. It also reduces tunnel heat in the summer as it provides insulation between the hot valves and the firewall.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/koolmat.php

Carl
 
What I did with the triangle type valves. I used a piece of Kool Mat between the valves and the firewall, holes cut out to match the valve outlet. I left the mat long with the excess going vertical above the valves. This excess then laps over the front of the valves, directing the hot air (valves closed to the cabin) down to the bottom of the cowl. This solved the problem of summer time dumping heat muff air directly at the engine - and engine driven fuel pump. It also reduces tunnel heat in the summer as it provides insulation between the hot valves and the firewall.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/koolmat.php

Carl

Thanks Carl, I want the insulation too.
 
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