VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

-POSTING RULES
-Advertise in here!
- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

Keep VAF Going
Donate methods

Point your
camera app here
to donate fast.






VAF on Twitter:
@VansAirForceNet

  #11  
Old 12-08-2022, 10:45 AM
Roadjunkie1's Avatar
Roadjunkie1 Roadjunkie1 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Erie, Colorado
Posts: 412
Default Tape FWF

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminum View Post
Seconded. Regular PVC electrical tape from 3M works just fine to insulate these FWF instead of heat shrink, and is much easier to remove ten years later.
I used heat shrink FWF and in many other connections for several reasons. It keeps the connections together with some compression from being shrunk....shrank?.... It stays put. Places I had PVC electrical tape started to come unraveled due to temperatures and time. The stickum on even the 3M tape seems to have a half-life that causes it to come undone. And heat shrink just seems to look better and we all know what looks can mean......IMHO
__________________
Michael
RV-4 2860 SuzieQ
1946 C-90-8 J-3 Cub
The adventure begins when things stop going as planned - Glen Heggstad
Exempt but still a happy Subscriber! 2022-2023
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 12-08-2022, 11:31 AM
jliltd's Avatar
jliltd jliltd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Rancho San Lorenzo
Posts: 1,390
Default

Molex connectors are clunky, cheap, unreliable, wires rattle inside them and they are not designed for the type of environmental conditions seen in aircraft systems. They get yellowish and brittle over time and are a PITA to de-pin even with plunger extractors. Anybody who has been around them over time cringes when they see them.

Here is another vote for Deutsch DT (larger wire) and DTM (smaller wires). They are weatherproof with silicon seals and snap together and remove very easily while having complete positive lock when connected. They are a pleasure to deal with. I always use the closed barrel type contacts, never the open crimp style. There are less expensive crimpers available in kits on major web sites. Most regular DSub crimpers will work as long as the position is set. Here is one example:

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Deutsch-C.../dp/B01N3P2S17

Deutsch also do not require and special tools for insertion or extraction. Push the contacts in to set. A small blade screwdriver will release the contacts for easy extraction.

For the specific question of using 22 gauge wire for one connector and 16 gauge wire on the opposite connector Deutsch makes pins with barrel ID for different gauges of wire. For that combination I would use the larger DT connector and instead of getting special sized pins for the 22 gauge I would simply strip the smaller wire 2 to 3 times longer than the required depth and merely fold over the exposed wire to make it thicker inside the connector barrel. Strain relief is provided by silicon rubber seals so that is not an issue.
__________________
Jim Ivey
RV-8
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 12-08-2022, 02:33 PM
Rick_A's Avatar
Rick_A Rick_A is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,637
Default Butt splices

Your basic crimp type butt splices work very well. There are some special connectors for EGT & CHT. Vendors usually provide them with their engine gauges.

Butt splices are simple, secure and easy to replace. Just leave yourself a bit of a service loop. Cover them with heat shrink if you like but itís probably not necessary.
__________________
Rick Aronow,
Flying 7A Slider;
RV-12 SOLD
Jacksonville, FL
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 12-08-2022, 04:12 PM
TASEsq TASEsq is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 502
Default

Iíve used a few Deutsch DTM connectors (like for the trim in the tail where I thought water could get in) - they use DTM size 20 pins which are good for 7.5 amps. You can crimp them with the same crimper as Dsub pins.

For higher pin counts or higher amps I have used CPC connectors.

I was very confused about all the connector options and proper pins etc so made a reference document. Link below if itís helpful to anyone and I would be grateful to any criticism if Iíve made any errors etc.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cw7...w?usp=drivesdk
__________________
___________
Trent Stewart
Melbourne, Australia
http://www.tasrv14.blogspot.com.au/
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 12-08-2022, 06:04 PM
Thermos's Avatar
Thermos Thermos is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: KASH
Posts: 667
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PilotjohnS View Post
I recommend and I used the Deutsch series. They are readily available from Digikey or Mouser.
+1, I really like Deutsch connectors. I found the connector kits and an inexpensive crimper that handles the larger pins at https://theelectricaldepot.com.

ds
__________________
Dave Setser
CFII/MEI, Consultant DER
EAA Technical Counselor/Flight Advisor
RV-7 N701ED Flying!
Nashua, NH (KASH) / Plymouth, NH (1P1)

Last edited by Thermos : 12-10-2022 at 02:14 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 12-08-2022, 06:32 PM
Webb's Avatar
Webb Webb is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jackson, MS
Posts: 1,500
Default

For the CAN Buss, use #24 and put in one pin. Set crimper for #20.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	BBE04F5D-5575-4E0B-8031-131EA6636BA4.jpg
Views:	58
Size:	196.4 KB
ID:	34917  
__________________
Webb Willmott
Jackson, MS
RV8 - Current Build
V35B - Flying
RV7A - N32WW (Sold)
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 12-09-2022, 12:11 AM
Steve Crewdog's Avatar
Steve Crewdog Steve Crewdog is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: KBVS
Posts: 298
Default

My old electronics sensei (22 years as a USN ET) is obsessive about being able to easily remove things.

Molex microfit connectors. http://seareybuild.blogspot.com/2021...ng-up.html?m=1
__________________
SeaRey builder lurking to get ideas to make his plane better, and keep his build from stopping like a gear down landing in water.
Dues paid for 2023
http://seareybuild.blogspot.com/

Last edited by Steve Crewdog : 12-09-2022 at 12:14 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 12-09-2022, 02:09 AM
jliltd's Avatar
jliltd jliltd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Rancho San Lorenzo
Posts: 1,390
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TASEsq View Post
I’ve used a few Deutsch DTM connectors (like for the trim in the tail where I thought water could get in) - they use DTM size 20 pins which are good for 7.5 amps for each contact position. You can crimp them with the same crimper as Dsub pins.

For higher pin counts or higher amps I have used CPC connectors.
The Deutsch DTM are the minature versions (that's what the "M" at the end of DTM stands for). The DTMs use size 20 contacts good for 7.5 amps usable with 16 to 22 gauge wires. DTMs are great for avionics and signal wires and low amp power circuits. DTMs come in 2, 3, 4, 6, 8 and 12 position connectors.

For step up in amp capacity you can get the Deutsch DT connectors (no "M" on the end). DTs use size 16 contacts accommodating 14 to 20 gauge wire and are rated at 13 amps continuous for each contact position. DTs come in 2, 3, 4, 6, 8 and 12 position connectors.

For higher amperage capacity yet Deutsch has DTP connectors ("P" standing for power in reference to the higher power capacity). DTPs use contact size 12 and are rated at 25 amps continuous for each contact position. DTPs can accomodate 10 to 14 gauge wires. DTPs are only available in 2 and 4 cavity connectors.

Finally Deutsch also makes what they call Jiffy Splices which come in 13, 25 and 100 amp sizes. The contacts are 16, 12 or 4 sized. These are single butt connectors consisting of one pair of male and female contacts with a protective boot. Jiffy Splices can easily be disconnected and reconnecfed in the field.
__________________
Jim Ivey
RV-8
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 12-09-2022, 07:43 AM
Steve Ashby's Avatar
Steve Ashby Steve Ashby is online now
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Stone Mountain, Georgia
Posts: 508
Default Connector kit

Dave and Jim,

I think I am sold on the Deutch connectors. Would either of these be a good connector kit to start?

https://theelectricaldepot.com/deuts...-connector-kit

Also, I have the Stein barrel pin crimper. Would that work, or is it worth it to get the Deutch crimper?

Thanks!
__________________
Steve Ashby
Stone Mountain, GA
N184RW (reserved)
RV-8A
YIO-360 180 hp Lycoming
Hartzell Blended Airfoil Prop
Engine Hung
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 12-09-2022, 01:30 PM
Draker's Avatar
Draker Draker is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Cameron Park, CA
Posts: 790
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Ashby View Post
Dave and Jim,

I think I am sold on the Deutch connectors. Would either of these be a good connector kit to start?

https://theelectricaldepot.com/deuts...-connector-kit

Also, I have the Stein barrel pin crimper. Would that work, or is it worth it to get the Deutch crimper?

Thanks!
Instead of getting a kit, I calculated exactly which connectors I needed and ordered them and the pins/sockets from Digikey. No leftovers
__________________
Ryan Drake
Cameron Airpark, CA
https://stiletto.smugmug.com/RV7
Donated 12/16/2022
RV-7A (N12VD): Flying RV in Phase 1
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:23 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.