Wire Splicing Methods

[Roadjunkie1]

Originally Posted by Aluminum

Seconded. Regular PVC electrical tape from 3M works just fine to insulate these FWF instead of heat shrink, and is much easier to remove ten years later.

I used heat shrink FWF and in many other connections for several reasons. It keeps the connections together with some compression from being shrunk....shrank?.... It stays put. Places I had PVC electrical tape started to come unraveled due to temperatures and time. The stickum on even the 3M tape seems to have a half-life that causes it to come undone. And heat shrink just seems to look better and we all know what looks can mean......IMHO

[jliltd]

Molex connectors are clunky, cheap, unreliable, wires rattle inside them and they are not designed for the type of environmental conditions seen in aircraft systems. They get yellowish and brittle over time and are a PITA to de-pin even with plunger extractors. Anybody who has been around them over time cringes when they see them.

Here is another vote for Deutsch DT (larger wire) and DTM (smaller wires). They are weatherproof with silicon seals and snap together and remove very easily while having complete positive lock when connected. They are a pleasure to deal with. I always use the closed barrel type contacts, never the open crimp style. There are less expensive crimpers available in kits on major web sites. Most regular DSub crimpers will work as long as the position is set. Here is one example:

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Deutsch-C.../dp/B01N3P2S17

Deutsch also do not require and special tools for insertion or extraction. Push the contacts in to set. A small blade screwdriver will release the contacts for easy extraction.

For the specific question of using 22 gauge wire for one connector and 16 gauge wire on the opposite connector Deutsch makes pins with barrel ID for different gauges of wire. For that combination I would use the larger DT connector and instead of getting special sized pins for the 22 gauge I would simply strip the smaller wire 2 to 3 times longer than the required depth and merely fold over the exposed wire to make it thicker inside the connector barrel. Strain relief is provided by silicon rubber seals so that is not an issue.

[Rick_A]

Your basic crimp type butt splices work very well. There are some special connectors for EGT & CHT. Vendors usually provide them with their engine gauges.

Butt splices are simple, secure and easy to replace. Just leave yourself a bit of a service loop. Cover them with heat shrink if you like but it’s probably not necessary.

[TASEsq]

I’ve used a few Deutsch DTM connectors (like for the trim in the tail where I thought water could get in) - they use DTM size 20 pins which are good for 7.5 amps. You can crimp them with the same crimper as Dsub pins.

For higher pin counts or higher amps I have used CPC connectors.

I was very confused about all the connector options and proper pins etc so made a reference document. Link below if it’s helpful to anyone and I would be grateful to any criticism if I’ve made any errors etc.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cw7...w?usp=drivesdk

[Thermos]

Originally Posted by PilotjohnS

I recommend and I used the Deutsch series. They are readily available from Digikey or Mouser.

+1, I really like Deutsch connectors. I found the connector kits and an inexpensive crimper that handles the larger pins at https://theelectricaldepot.com.

ds

[Webb]

For the CAN Buss, use #24 and put in one pin. Set crimper for #20.

[Steve Crewdog]

My old electronics sensei (22 years as a USN ET) is obsessive about being able to easily remove things.

Molex microfit connectors. http://seareybuild.blogspot.com/2021...ng-up.html?m=1

[jliltd]

Originally Posted by TASEsq

I’ve used a few Deutsch DTM connectors (like for the trim in the tail where I thought water could get in) - they use DTM size 20 pins which are good for 7.5 amps for each contact position. You can crimp them with the same crimper as Dsub pins.

For higher pin counts or higher amps I have used CPC connectors.

The Deutsch DTM are the minature versions (that's what the "M" at the end of DTM stands for). The DTMs use size 20 contacts good for 7.5 amps usable with 16 to 22 gauge wires. DTMs are great for avionics and signal wires and low amp power circuits. DTMs come in 2, 3, 4, 6, 8 and 12 position connectors.

For step up in amp capacity you can get the Deutsch DT connectors (no "M" on the end). DTs use size 16 contacts accommodating 14 to 20 gauge wire and are rated at 13 amps continuous for each contact position. DTs come in 2, 3, 4, 6, 8 and 12 position connectors.

For higher amperage capacity yet Deutsch has DTP connectors ("P" standing for power in reference to the higher power capacity). DTPs use contact size 12 and are rated at 25 amps continuous for each contact position. DTPs can accomodate 10 to 14 gauge wires. DTPs are only available in 2 and 4 cavity connectors.

Finally Deutsch also makes what they call Jiffy Splices which come in 13, 25 and 100 amp sizes. The contacts are 16, 12 or 4 sized. These are single butt connectors consisting of one pair of male and female contacts with a protective boot. Jiffy Splices can easily be disconnected and reconnecfed in the field.

[Steve Ashby]

Dave and Jim,

I think I am sold on the Deutch connectors. Would either of these be a good connector kit to start?

https://theelectricaldepot.com/deuts...-connector-kit

Also, I have the Stein barrel pin crimper. Would that work, or is it worth it to get the Deutch crimper?

Thanks!

[Draker]

Originally Posted by Steve Ashby

Dave and Jim,

I think I am sold on the Deutch connectors. Would either of these be a good connector kit to start?

https://theelectricaldepot.com/deuts...-connector-kit

Also, I have the Stein barrel pin crimper. Would that work, or is it worth it to get the Deutch crimper?

Thanks!

Instead of getting a kit, I calculated exactly which connectors I needed and ordered them and the pins/sockets from Digikey. No leftovers