Scott's RV14A: N52XL

[rockitdoc]

This is version 2.8, and counting:



I abandoned the 'hot' bus after much discussion in favor of just two bits (baggage light and stall horn) on the hot side of the master contactor protected with fusible links.

I also eliminated one of the Hall Effect sensors since only one alternator will be working at a time.

[rockitdoc]

I got the Reiff preheater installed yesterday and today with my son Bryan's help. The bands going around the cylinders would have been MUCH easier to install before the baffles went on. The baffles cling to the cylinders pretty well, so there is not enough room to sneak the band heaters through. Some filing and bending was required with little room to work. But, we got it done. The oil cooler heater was much simpler. Just glued it to the side of the cooler and ran the wires.

I opted for positioning the 110v plug at the rear with access from the oil inspection door. Because this requires cutting a hole in the baffle at the rear, I decided to remove the what-looked-to-my-untrained eye Molex connectors. This allowed a smaller hole be cut in the baffle. But, the connectors were in fact AMP connectors I found out upon calling Reiff. I ruined one with my Molex extraction tool. Ordered several more from Digikey. Turned out I wouldn't have needed to remove the connectors. I had to shorten the 110v wires to make it fit better. So, routing the wire through the baffle was easy once it was cut. I spliced it back together with butt connectors, sealed it with shrink tubing, and wrapped it with fire sleeve.

This system is going to work out well on cold winter flying days. I plan to set up a wifi system so I can call the heater to turn on the unit a couple of hours before starting the engine.

[rockitdoc]

Did some preliminary wire routing today, but mostly fabricated a support for the fuse block on the sub panel, mounted the voltage regulator for the backup alternator, mounted the stall warning horn, the dimmers for the panel and the USB extension from the back of the PFD.





Oh, yeah, I also removed the right Pmag in order to gain better access to the backup alternator lower left mounting nut. I will tackle the backup alternator mounting tomorrow. It's supposed to be a bear to access the lower left nut. Bought the special SnapOn crow's foot, just in case.

[rockitdoc]

This wasn't as bad as some have described. But, it did require that the starboard P Mag come off to gain better access to the nut at the lower/port corner holding the alternator on. Without removing the P Mag, this would be nearly impossible to accomplish.

It still requires a bit of ingenuity. I put a small magnet on the nut to hold it against the stud. Then, VERY CAREFULLY, turned the nut with a long screwdriver until one thread grabbed. This took a few attempts, but I finally got it. About 30 minutes after the P mag was off.

The photos below show the magnet/nut/stud, then the nut on the stud.





Once the nuts are on the studs, they still have to be torqued to 90-110 in-lbs. This is tricky since a socket won't fit in the tight space. But, Snap-on makes a crow's foot especially for this application. And, although this could probably be done without this tool, the job is significantly easier with it.

[rockitdoc]

Yes. I decided against an alternator switch. Instead, using a circuit breaker. One for each alternator. Also, no avionics switch. This meant designing a new panel.

Try this out:

[rockitdoc]

Flew with a buddy in his -14 yesterday (Thanks, again, Jason).

Based on this experience, I changed the layout of the panel again.

Moved everything away from below the center of the PFD becuz of potential interference with stick. Moved light switches to lower starboard of PFD and grouped them, accordingly.

Moved ELT to starboard of MFD.
Moved CBs and pitot heat to below MFD.

Simple. Nothing in front of pilot that is not needed for flight.

This has been the hardest part of the build, to date. But, the canopy awaits....!

As usual, if there is something obviously stupid about this, chime in, please. This is the third piece of AL I've cut up. Getting good at it.

[bjdecker]

Originally Posted by rockitdoc

Flew with a buddy in his -14 yesterday (Thanks, again, Jason).

Based on this experience, I changed the layout of the panel again.

Moved everything away from below the center of the PFD becuz of potential interference with stick. Moved light switches to lower starboard of PFD and grouped them, accordingly.

Moved ELT to starboard of MFD.
Moved CBs and pitot heat to below MFD.

Simple. Nothing in front of pilot that is not needed for flight.

This has been the hardest part of the build, to date. But, the canopy awaits....!

As usual, if there is something obviously stupid about this, chime in, please. This is the third piece of AL I've cut up. Getting good at it.

Attachment 34727

You must be exceptionally tall, like 8' or so.

Most of us have cut the stick down so the top of it doesn't interfere with the bottom of the panel...

[rockitdoc]

Originally Posted by bjdecker

You must be exceptionally tall, like 8' or so.

Most of us have cut the stick down so the top of it doesn't interfere with the bottom of the panel...

Think Avatar.

[rockitdoc]

I had my switches all mounted directly to the panel and kept thinking that making them more readily removable might make sense.

So, today I started the process of fabricating a panel-on-top-of-the-panel scheme.

Basically, I just fabbed a smaller panel to mount the switches on that could be screwed to the main panel. That way, in case of maintenance issues or alterations in the switch arrangement, ie, new switches, added switches, only the outer panel that screws to the main panel needs to be modified, not the whole panel.











The strip on the back is drilled for the 'keeper' that is needed to keep the Honeywell switches from rotating. This way, a hole doesn't show through the front of the panel.






I also fabricated a copper bus bar for the two alternator circuit breakers. I used a piece of copper pipe from a local (ferguson) plumbing shop. Cut it, straightened it, pounded flat and cut it into a strip for the CBs.





I made it longer in case more CBs are added later.

[rockitdoc]

I mounted the switches below the PFD on their removable panel today. Tomorrow I will fabricate a similar removable panel for the switches to port of the PFD.

This shows how the removable panel is fabricated. It's a bit more complicated because of the Honeywell switches which have that little washer with the pin to keep the switch from rotating. The narrower aluminum strip being drilled is the piece that has a hole drilled in it to accept the special 'keeper' washer in back of the switch.

By drilling both pieces together it assures alignment.

I made the removable panel longer to accommodate four more switches, just in case.... But, I can't imagine wanting to modify this someday!