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Rv3 advise

cpfeifer

Member
Hi guys, I’m looking at buying a rv3 kit from 1995. It the empennage, wing, and fuselage, kits. They’ve been in the crate and not touched this whole time. How is the build on this older kit compared to the newer ones? I’m currently building a rv7 and this would likely sit till I’m done with that one. The price is right I’m thinking so just looking for thoughts on it. Thanks
 
It definitely is worth it if it’s not corroded. Still in the crates, I would be concerned about the coatings and corrosion. How and where was it stored?
 
Things to Consider

In addition to the afore mentioned wing considerations, you should also be comfortable with the fact that this kit is basically formed "raw materials" where you do all the (read make) jigging necessary to make all the larger pieces - it's only as "square" as you make it. A lot of work just in doing that.

In addition, all hole position, size & spacing is up to you - all skins come "bare", no holes - a lot of work there, including interpreting the plans, which, from that time point can appear more of an "advisory" than mandate.

When you get done, you'll be a "builder" instead of an assembler of the newer models.

You're getting a lot for your money, but a lot of work on your part is required to get the maximum benefit.

I've built -4, Harmon Rocket II and am currently building a -3, so I know about what's necessary to build these "old school" kits.

Best of luck - HFS
 
I say ditto to everything that HFS has said. There is a tremendous amount of work to be done including building your own spars from raw stock which is the way it was done in the '90's.

Plus, since this is a '90's vintage kit, you will need to incorporate the CN-1 and CN-2 mods into your wings as you build them. Check our website for more information regarding them.

However, having built an RV-3 in the early '90's, and flown every RV model there is (except the -4 and -15), it remains my favorite as the best flying RV of them all. In the 18 months that I owned it, I flew it 275 hours. Only sold it because I was tired of flying alone.

If you have the skills and the time, go for it. It will not disappoint in the end.

All the best.
 
HFS and MLock have covered it very succinctly, you will need to jig every part of the airframe and the flight control surfaces. Every hole will have to be lined, spaced and drilled.
The plans and drawings are very basic but your current project experience will be beneficial.

These early kit builds are becoming a lost art and as an almost complete kit it sounds like a real treasure. I say you should go for it with pride and much satisfaction.

Russell
 
I might be wrong about one or two things so please don't take this as gospel.

The empennage, control surfaces on the wings and the fuselage haven't changed. However, the engine mount now has six attachments to the fuselage instead of the original four, so that might be something to swap out if necessary. It's only the wings that have those changes. And another change to the wings is that now they have wing tanks like the other RVs. Nothing wrong with the fuselage tank, if this kit has that, although it will reduce the useful space between the panel and the firewall, as well as access to the rudder and brake pedals.

Although the construction is not as easy as the later models, especially the double-digit ones, I've personally found it thoroughly interesting and often fun. I confess to several mods, and as for those, they not only weren't necessary they added huge amounts of time to my project. Keep it simple and build to the plans, and you'll have lots of fun.

I think the price is great, a long as you understand what you're getting. In SD there probably won't be much corrosion, but check, because otherwise you could be surprised.

Dave
 
As others have said, those kits are a whole different world from the new matched hole, CNC kits. You will be laying out every hole and blind-drilling into the ribs, really fabricating parts from raw stock, and such. Jigs are not an option, lol. I built an RV-4 empennage in that era and it is not for the tentative types who get upset if the proper rivet isn't called out on current kits. I think this is why you tend to see these kits change hands a lot. I tip my hat to anyone that finished a kit from that era start to finish.

If you like a challenge, that is a great price. The old Tony Bingellis books are relevant to this era kit. Plan on at least six to seven years if you can work on it with regularity. If Van's ever refreshed the 3 to matched hole, it would be great, but there is almost no market for a single seat, when a two seat is about the same finished cost.

I think the biggest con of the 3 is that the prices are really impacted by the single-seat. Build cheap and light because it will be really hard to even get your material costs back.
 
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What is your mission ?

A 160HP 3B is a pretty hot toy. By contrast, an 0200 3A would be light and nimble for safe fun flying without CN1 and CN-2 mods. Wing tanks are not required for simple short trip fun flying. Space for lots of avionics is VERY limited. What is your mission ?
 
A 160HP 3B is a pretty hot toy. By contrast, an 0200 3A would be light and nimble for safe fun flying without CN1 and CN-2 mods. Wing tanks are not required for simple short trip fun flying. Space for lots of avionics is VERY limited. What is your mission ?

That’s a great question. I think it would be great to have a flying rv3. I’m worried about the skills that it would take to build it though. The price of the kit keeps pulling me back in though hahaha. There has been some great advise in this thread though so thank you everyone for that. The parts a corrosion free and I really think I could get it for less than $2000.
 
I would not consider building an RV-3 without the wing mods.
The mods were incorporated for a reason.
 
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Old kits

The old kits are a lot of work, as others have said, and not for everybody.
$2,000 is cheap for the kits compared to current prices and 18 month wait times.
How much will it cost you to complete the plane including jigs, new wing spars, finishing kit, engine, prop, FWF, panel, paint etc? I'm guessing at least $50K depending on choices. Is it all worth it to you?
 
My experience is that the jigs are not all that expensive, compared to so many other things.

And the old spars are fine, as long as you do the wing mods. But if you decide to build wing tanks, then contact the factory for advice as to whether you need new spars too.

Dave
 
Should we ground all Cessnas with standard category 4.4g wings ? What am I missing ?

I don't think anyone said that unmodified RV-3s should be grounded. I simply firmly believe that when building, the mods are not that difficult to include and should be incorporated. How many people want a non-aerobatic RV-3?

Before the mods, there were several fatal accidents due to wings departing the aircraft in flight. Not all of these occurred during acro.
 
Mel’s point well taken.

Wing mods are no big deal when building.
My point was there have been a lot of fun hours flown with standard category aircraft. I suspect a lot of RV’s become poorly conceived (engine and electrical) and overpriced due to unrealistic mission definition.
 
Should we ground all Cessnas with standard category 4.4g wings ? What am I missing ?

Cessnas don't lend themselves to having quite as much "fun" as RV's do. Sure, you can loop an original RV-3 and keep the G's below 3.5. But if you screw up, and it happens, you'll be over 4.5 in a heartbeat. You wouldn't be trying to do that in a Cessna, it's just not the plane for it. The RV just screams "take me upside down" every time you fly it.

At least mine does... :p
 
Wing mods

Absolutely do the wing mods. This shouldn’t even be a question on a project of this magnitude. The 3 is a great plane that is a lot of fun to fly. There are a few areas I would focus on during the build to make it more enjoyable once finished. First, do the wing mods. Second, spend time on the gear and put serious dampers on the back of the legs. The shimmy is exceedingly annoying. Third, even the original wings can have wing tanks, at least I see that as an option in our old plans. A little extra fuel, more space behind the panel, and not having to worry about spilling fuel onto the windshield or dripping into the fuselage would make the extra time building wing tanks worth it in my opinion. Fourth, I’d recommend 160 horsepower and a lightweight fixed pitch prop. Fifth, and probably most important, is to build it light.

Here is why you need to build it light:

If you don’t list your own maximum weights, which you’ll have to do if it’s heavy, Van’s weights are as follows. Max is 1100 and Max aerobatic is 1050. It’s very easy to get to 850 pounds empty if you’ve got paint, IFR instruments, smoke tank, and a big engine. The B wing is heavier still. At 850 pounds, plus a 200 pound pilot, you’re already at aerobatic Max and haven’t even put any fuel in yet.

Keep it light!
 
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