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Old 04-13-2014, 04:34 PM
Aerosporty's Avatar
Aerosporty Aerosporty is offline
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lawrenceville GA
Posts: 94

Would love to borrow someone's modified parts when they are done.
2014 Dues proudly paid!
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Old 04-13-2014, 08:04 PM
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ppilotmike ppilotmike is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,018
Default No need for modified dies..

I decided not to modify my dies as some have suggested. I was worried that the die would rotate slightly, biting into the surface, or I'd find another equally good way to screw it up. I also didn't want to buy more dies.

Instead, I set my pneumatic squeezer depth so that it would only partially squeeze the rivets (enough to set the factory head nice and flush and hold the rivet in). Then, once I had all the trailing edge rivets partially set with the squeezer, I flipped the piece over and used a back-riveting plate and my rivet gun (with swivel flush set), set at a slightly lower pressure. The double flush rivets come out perfectly due to a good initial set and then a back-rivet quality finish set. I guess there's lots of ways to skin this cat.
Mike Rettig
EAA Chapter 301
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RV-10 - Working on engine / prop installation
F-14 (Pedal Plane - Daughter's Project) "Flying"
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:34 PM
rv8pilotpaul rv8pilotpaul is offline
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: martinsburg, wv
Posts: 63
Default Good Method

I just used the above described method and it works great. Didn't use any tape or bonding, just clecoed the wedge and riveted away.
RV-8: Still Flying since 2001
RV-3 Sold: Flying now in England!
Starduster Too: Sold
RV-12: Sold
RV-14: Sold
Carbon Cub: N471CC
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:41 PM
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BillL BillL is offline
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 6,842

Wow, I wish you guys had posted this 5 years ago! I would have thought the dies would slip, but results tell us differently!

I will just fill in my little smilies. (or go crazy and make a new one)

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Old 05-07-2014, 08:10 PM
NorrisAir NorrisAir is offline
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Veradale, WA
Posts: 26
Default Squeezing worked great

I'm a new builder and was worried about my ability to rivet the rudder TE. Using a piece of scrap I tried riveting the rudder trailing edge using a rivet gun as described by Van's. It worked but was easy to make a mistake. Decided to try grinding down a flat die for my pneumatic squeezer to the same angle as the wedge that goes between the skins. Ran a little tape on the edge of die and up to the squeezer frame so that the die wouldn't rotate. Then tried squeezing the rivets. It worked GREAT!
Vans said to "set" the rivets on the rudder TE first, so set the squeezer a little more open which worked fine for "setting". Once they were all set then closed up the squeezer and finished all the rivets with one squeeze each.
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Old 09-26-2022, 04:07 PM
skelrad skelrad is offline
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 356
Default Agree, this works great!

Visiting an old thread just to say squeezing trailing edges works very well, although I didn't use only squeezing like some people do. For my flaps, I kept every other hole in the trailing edge clecoed, slid the trailing edge a few inches off of the bench, then weighted down the flap skins/ribs to keep everything flat against the bench. I set the squeezer so it would bottom out just above the skin, partially setting the rivet. Once done with the "pre-squeeze" on all of the rivets, I flipped the flap over onto my back rivet plate and used a mushroom set to do the final set. I was astonished at how straight the edge ended up and how much cleaner it looked than the normal method (where I admittedly had some rookie educational moments and dinged the skins with the back rivet set when doing the first partial rivet sets). With the clecos still in and everything held flat against the table with weights, there's no need for proseal or VHB tape either, which was a bonus.

The normal back riveting method obviously works fine. The squeezer method is a great alternative though. I haven't tried grinding down a squeezer set to match the trailing edge angle, only because using the mushroom set and a back rivet plate to finish setting the rivets is so fast and simple.
RV-9A: Fuselage in progress

Last edited by rv7boy : 09-26-2022 at 07:58 PM. Reason: “Bump” is a four letter word on VAF.
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Old 09-26-2022, 04:30 PM
MED MED is offline
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 958

FYI - Cleveland Tool sells a die set specifically made to squeeze this trailing edge. Works great.
Miss March 2020
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Old 09-26-2022, 08:51 PM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,680

Originally Posted by MED View Post
FYI - Cleveland Tool sells a die set specifically made to squeeze this trailing edge. Works great.

Turner Billingsley

RV-14A built/sold N14VB
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