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VERY bad day

Just talked to Darren. They have a crankshaft that they can send in to be ground. The bottom line is that the whole engine repair is going to be about $30,000CAD (plus tax and about $850 more for shipping). A new engine would be about $50,000CAD and would be 12-18 months. I should have the repaired engine back sometime in May.
Unfortunatley he's completely booked-up for build school until June, so I won't be doing that (I'll just take the lycoming school one of these days).
He said that because of all the metal that was in my oil i should replace my oil cooler. Could someone tell me the standard Vans part number for the oil cooler for an RV-9A O-320? Are they still selling the same unit that i would have gotten with my FWF kit about 13 years ago?
 
Don’t want to keep adding to your repair cost but now would be a good time to replace hoses and upgrade to PMags. Just a thought.
 
In terms of re-mounting, is it generally ok to re-use my engine bolts, those big rubber mount disks, and my prop bolts? My bolts all appear it be in good condition except for the gold surface coating worn off in spots.
 
The people who are repairing my RV7A from the prop strike I had last summer are, I believe, going to reuse my engine mounts and bolts since they appear to be in good condition. I’m pretty sure they are using new propeller bolts since a new propeller is being installed. I would talk to whoever you are getting your new propeller from or whom ever is overhauling the old one. Personally, I’d install new bolts.
 
In terms of re-mounting, is it generally ok to re-use my engine bolts, those big rubber mount disks, and my prop bolts?

This would be an ideal time to replace your rubber engine mounts (the "disks").
 
In terms of re-mounting, is it generally ok to re-use my engine bolts, those big rubber mount disks, and my prop bolts? My bolts all appear it be in good condition except for the gold surface coating worn off in spots.

I would jump on the opportunity to replace the engine mounts (big rubber disks) as the labor is the same and they sag over time. Why not?

If your hoses are 303 rubber you might want to get a whole new set made up by TS Flightlines for similar reasons.
 
Parts

Bolts are relatively cheap. Replace them. No need to replace mount rubbers unless they have visible defects. 460 hours is very low time for mounts unless HARD aerobatics is involved-not the case with any RV.
 
I hope you were still running a F/P prop. It can't get contaminated......
Yes I've always run a FP Catto 3-blade, with Nickel leading edges. I love that prop.

In terms of flushing out possible contamination from my oil lines and oil pressure sensor, would just running some gasoline through these be a suitable method?
 
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update - engine in assembly!

Hi all,
There was some interest here in my saga, so i thought i'd provide an update. My engine is now in assembly. My crankshaft was below limits and was too far gone to be repaired. Aerosport had another used 320 crank that was available for reconditioning, which saved me having to buy a brand new one. But there was a significant back-log in getting crankshafts reground, so that took about 3 months. Finally the crank came back. My engine has been repainted, reconditioned cylinders and other parts repaired as necessary, and is now in assembly. I expect it to ship in a couple of weeks. I'm nervous about the reinstall process (since it has been about 14 years since i did this the last time!), but I'm optimistic to be back in the air by mid-june.
It's been a VERY expensive episode, but i will say that Aero Sport have been fantastic to work with, as always.
I just read Mike Busch's new book "On Engines" and learned a tonne. I'm going to switch from Aeroshell 15W50 to single-grade W100 now, on his advice. I've also resolved never to start my engine when the OAT is below 0 degrees Celcius.
P.
 
I've also resolved never to start my engine when the OAT is below 0 degrees Celsius.
P.

Is preheat an option for you? If so, your is problem solved and your self-imposed restriction (but one I support 100%) could be lifted.
 
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i have an oil sump preheater but I never had proper cylinder heaters, which Busch says is critical. In fact, my ad-hoc home-cooked method of cylinder preheat may have contributed to the failure of my piston ring. Here in Ottawa winter flying comes with other hazards (runway contamination, freezing to death in the even of off-field landing, plowing the hangar ramp etc), so I have decided that i am finished with winter flying. it's just not fun for us up here.
 
another thing i took away from Busch is that i'm going to start sending my oil for analysis regularly. I never did this before. I want to get a borescope, but i worry that i won't know what to look for or won't know how to interpret what i see. I wonder if Savvy have a service to examine borescope images for you.
 
Hi all,
...
I just read Mike Busch's new book "On Engines" and learned a tonne. I'm going to switch from Aeroshell 15W50 to single-grade W100 now, on his advice. I've also resolved never to start my engine when the OAT is below 0 degrees Celcius.
P.

I have not read that Mike recommends W100 over a good multi-grade. Here is I believe his current advice:

https://resources.savvyaviation.com/client-resources/savvy-oil-recommendations/

For an airplane exposed to the worst of both worlds—sub-freezing cold starts and high corrosion—we recommend using Phillips 20W-50 plus one pint of CamGuard.

An engine preheater that heats the whole engine compartment with warm air, will ensure that the oil and cylinders are at whatever temp you want. I use a pair of cheap 100w personal heaters stuffed in the cowl to get mine to 20c before startup. It's not nearly as cold here as in Canada, so you might need something more powerful.
 
OIL

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There are two basic types of FAA-approved aviation oils used in general aviation aircraft piston engines.



1. Straight mineral



2. Ashless dispersant (AD)



Many Lycoming engines use straight mineral oil for “break-in” purposes with a new, rebuilt or overhauled engine. The operators should then switch to AD oil after “break-in” has been accomplished. In those engines that use straight mineral oil beyond the normal break-in period (25 to 50 hours), a later switch to AD oil should be done with caution as loosened sludge deposits may clog oil passages. Oil screens must be checked after each flight until clots of sludge no longer appear.



Those Lycoming engines that are to be broken in with AD oil include all turbocharged models, the O-320-H and the O/LO-360-E.



Since modern FAA-approved ashless dispersant oils already include additives that make them superior to straight mineral oil, the use of additional oil additives in Lycoming engines has been very limited. The only additive approved by Lycoming is Lycoming part number LW-16702, an anti-scuffing, anti-wear oil additive. The policy governing use of this oil additive is spelled out in the latest revisions of Service Bulletins 446 and 471, and in Service Instruction 1409. These publications approve the use of LW-16702 for all Lycoming reciprocating engines except those that utilize a friction-type clutch and a common engine oil system for the transmission and clutch assembly. The use of LW-16702 is required in certain engine models. These models are the 0-320-H, O-360-E, LO-360-E, TO-360-E, LTO- 360-E, TIO and TIGO-541.



Clean engine oil is essential to long engine life, and the full-flow oil filter is an added improvement over older methods of filtration. Generally, service experience has shown that the use of external oil filters can increase the time between oil changes provided filter elements are replaced at each oil change. However, operation in dusty areas, cold climates and where infrequent flights with long idle periods are encountered will require proportionately more frequent oil changes despite use of the oil filter. The oil and oil filter element should be routinely replaced after each 50 hours of engine operation, and the filter should be cut open in order to examine the material trapped in the filter for evidence of internal engine damage. In new or recently overhauled engines, some small particles of metallic shavings might be found, but these are not dangerous. Metal found after the first two or three oil changes should be treated as an indication that a serious problem is developing and a thorough investigation should be undertaken. The oil filter does not remove contaminants such as water, acids or lead sludge from the oil. These contaminants are removed by changing the oil.



The oil filter is even more important to the high compression or higher-power engine. Some of the aircraft manufacturers have had good success in the small, lower-compression, four-cylinder engines without using a full-flow filter. Generally speaking, these engines are also able to achieve their expected overhaul life as long as oil is consistently changed, and operation and maintenance is accomplished in accordance with the airframe and engine manufacturer’s recommendations.



The latest revision to Lycoming Service Instruction 1014 gives recommendations for lubricating oils, oil change intervals and engine break-in. Pilots and mechanics should know what weight, type and brand of oil is being used in the engine being serviced. At each oil change, this specific information should be recorded in the engine logbook. Except as a temporary measure in an emergency, different oils should not be mixed. Consistent indiscriminate mixing of oils may create high oil-consumption problems or clogged oil control rings and oil screens.



Oil consumption is a very important engine health trend to monitor. The operator and maintenance people should know the general history of oil consumption during the life of the engine. It is typical of an engine during seating of new piston rings that oil consumption may be erratic or high; but after the rings are seated, generally within the first 25 to 50 hours, oil consumption should level off below the maximum limits established by the manufacturer. Later, during the life of the engine, if there is a noticeable increase of oil consumption within a 25-hour period, this could be a possible danger signal and calls for an investigation. The oil screens and filter should be carefully observed for signs of metal. Maintenance personnel should take a compression check of the cylinders, using differential pressure equipment and also look inside the cylinders with a borescope or gooseneck light to detect any unusual conditions.

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Savvy has an excellent owner maintenance advice service. I send them my oil analysis results, borescope photos, and ask them all kinds of stupid questions. It's a great service and I'd never be without it as long as I'm an aircraft owner.

https://www.savvyaviation.com/savvyqa/

It's money well spent.
 
I am sure that Shell will be thrilled with Mr Busch. He has some common sense ideas, but on others he is way off the mark in my opinion.

I have run Aeroshell W 15-50 for hundreds and hundreds of hours - change every 6 months or 25 hours.

Multigrade does not run off internals, if anything, it sticks better, gets back on surfaces faster and offers more protection - Thick oil does not provide better protection, it is the lubricity and design of the oil that gives protection.

Anyhow, as ever - opinions vary.....:D
 
Savvy has an excellent owner maintenance advice service. I send them my oil analysis results, borescope photos, and ask them all kinds of stupid questions. It's a great service and I'd never be without it as long as I'm an aircraft owner.

It's money well spent.
How much for their service. What do you get besides the analysis statistics (what is in the oil). Thank you.
 
another thing i took away from Busch is that i'm going to start sending my oil for analysis regularly.

If you’d been getting oil analysis before, here’s how that would’ve played out: You’d have had elevated aluminum and iron in a couple of samples, and nothing else. You wouldn’t have had any idea what to do about it, and VAF and Blackstone would both say “cut the filter, fly another 25 hours, and send another sample.” This would’ve happened repeatedly, giving you free-floating anxiety until you finally got the metal-laden filter you had in the OP. Then you would’ve done what you wound up doing without oil analysis.

Or maybe yours would’ve worked like mine. Twice I’ve had to get major engine work within weeks of a perfect oil analysis. “This Continental is aging like a fine wine,” Blackstone told me, four weeks before I had to get a major overhaul.

You did everything right. And your mechanic’s broken hip (hope he’s ok by now) saved you several months of fooling around with half measures by making you do early what you would’ve done eventually.

Busch has some good things to say, but he leaves the impression that most overhauls and almost every top overhaul is unnecessary. Once that narrative is established, it hinders further open conversation. For instance, he overhauled both of his engines on the 310 fairly recently. Why? I’ve heard rumors that are inconsistent with the narrative, and no discussion about it from Mike.

On the borescope, you’re headed in the right direction. Get the “anatomy of a valve failure” poster from AOPA, put it on the hangar wall, and you’ll already know more than most A&Ps.

Sorry so long, but I’m sick of people being made to feel like failures because they did a tear down.
 
Excellent post, Stu. Totally agree. Have been biting my tongue about some of the SAVVY stuff. Not dissing them here. SAVVY has some good tools and helps quell the low confidence level of newly-minted owners. I just think SAVVY advice should be treated as another tool to be cross-checked and verified. Rather than an unquestioned cult led by a sage upon the mount.
 
I am sure that Shell will be thrilled with Mr Busch. He has some common sense ideas, but on others he is way off the mark in my opinion.

I have run Aeroshell W 15-50 for hundreds and hundreds of hours - change every 6 months or 25 hours.

Multigrade does not run off internals, if anything, it sticks better, gets back on surfaces faster and offers more protection - Thick oil does not provide better protection, it is the lubricity and design of the oil that gives protection.

Anyhow, as ever - opinions vary.....:D

I am no fan of Busch. I have at least as much actual experience as he claims. And I'm not trying to sell anything as Mr. Busch is.
What really got me is his claim that any maintenance is likely to cause a engine failure. Don't get me started on Camguard, the STP of airplane engines.
 
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I know I might sound like a Mike Busch stan, but I think his advice comes down to stuff we all learned early in life:

  • fly a lot
  • if it ain't broke, don't fix it
  • don't believe everything you read
  • get it in writing in advance
  • communicate with your customer/supplier

No doubt, as a human, he's got some things wrong over the years, and probably makes some mistakes.

I think overall he's helping the community. I know his books and articles have helped me learn a lot.
 
n the borescope, you’re headed in the right direction. Get the “anatomy of a valve failure” poster from AOPA, put it on the hangar wall, and you’ll already know more than most A&Ps.
One of the reasons i never bought a borescope before is that I would have no idea what to look for. I have no experience looking at borescope images, and so i would have no way of recognizing problems. Any advice on how i could get this education? Savvy does offer borescope image analysis as part of their paid subscription service which is a bit expensive but tempting because it brings experienced eyes to the table.
 
Don't get me started on Camguard
Are you skeptical of the value of camguard? I have been using camguard but on such matters i am also generally skeptical. I mean, what are the chances that hte inventor of camguard has a secret sauce that Shell is unable to discover or reproduce (or reverse-engineer). If this stuff is so amazing, why aren't equivalent ingredients being put into the oil itself by Shell or Philips? I've been using it anyway, figuring it's not that expensive and is unlikely to do any harm.
 
One of the reasons i never bought a borescope before is that I would have no idea what to look for. I have no experience looking at borescope images, and so i would have no way of recognizing problems. Any advice on how i could get this education? Savvy does offer borescope image analysis as part of their paid subscription service which is a bit expensive but tempting because it brings experienced eyes to the table.

Like the quote said - get the “anatomy of a valve failure” poster (you can find it online) and that will give you a great start - it isn’t all that complicated.
 
Hey Paul, this is a bit off-topic, but if i recall correctly you are/were a mission specialist for NASA. Are you involved with Artemis at all? Jeremy Hansen is a Canadian Astronaut who is on the Artemis II crew. Great to see a Canadian get a seat. I learned to fly gliders in the summer of 1992 with Jeremy - we were both in the Canadian Air Cadet program and had very similar early paths (except a car accident and head injury when we were both on our power flying scholarship in 1993 stopped my dreams dead in their tracks - and for the record, i was not driving - it was an air cadet instructor officer being reckeless).
 
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Hey Paul, this is a bit off-topic, but if i recall correctly you are/were a mission specialist for NASA. Are you involved with Artemis at all? Jeremy Hansen is a Canadian Astronaut who is on the Artemis II crew. Great to see a Canadian get a seat. I learned to fly gliders in the summer of 1992 with Jeremy - we were both in the Canadian Air Cadet program and had very similar early paths (except a car accident and head injury when we were both on our power flying scholarship in 1993 stopped my dreams dead in their tracks - and for the record, i was not driving - it was an air cadet instructor officer being reckeless).

I was a Lead flight Director for NASA - not an astronaut - and ran space shuttle and ISS missions. Most of my Canadian astronaut buddies are long since retired (Chris Hadfield, Marc Garneau, etc) , but I think I met Jeremy as he was coming in and I was leaving the program. So I am watching Artemis from afar (well…I do have plenty of inside contacts…), and hoping they have some good missions.

Paul
 
Like the quote said - get the “anatomy of a valve failure” poster (you can find it online) and that will give you a great start - it isn’t all that complicated.

Exactly. Take out the plug, stick the scope in the hole, and look around. The plug hole is between the valves, so you have to bend it back 180 degrees to see them. The hand-eye coordination of it isn’t intuitive at first, so be patient.
 
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