What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

cleveland brake maintenance

sblack

Well Known Member
The cleveland brakes on my airplane (other airplane - RV not done yet) are 50 yrs old. There seems to be a lot of play between the 2 pins that the calipers slide on (called anchor bolts) and the bushings that they run in on the torque plate. Does anyone know what sort of tolerances are allowed before replacement is required? I have some evidence that these are jamming in the bushings. They say that you can't buy bushings for the torque plate, you have to buy a new plate for $500CDN. Yes, five hundred, not a typo. When I regained consciousness... Anyway I would like to know if I need to replace that or not, or the anchor bolts. I downloaded a maintenance manual from Cleveland but it did not provide that specific info. Any suggestions?
 
Brakes

I don't have an answer as far as tolerance. If you feel the brakes are dragging polish the pins with some fine emery and then apply some dry lube.
If you still have concerns you might consider reaming the bushings enough to allow a custom made sleeve to be pressed in place. The sleeve could be a bushing made from 4130 tubing and would only need to be approximately .035 wall thickness, maybe a bit less.
Another option would be to check Grove price for the plates or even a salvage yard.
 
The cleveland document says that the torque plates (at least on some of their brake assemblies) are castings and the bushings are integral and can't be replaced. If I had more info I could machine bushings and press them in. I am fully equipped for that. But I don't want to proceed without knowing exactly what the fits should be. I don't want to have a brake lock up and ground loop because I got it wrong. But paying $500 for a small casting just seems like a total ripoff.
 
Plate

My Cleveland 500 x 5 appear to be all steel with the bushings brazed or silver soldered to the flat plate.
 
Scott, I just checked my unused Cleveland calipers. The PIN to bushing clearances vary between 001" to .0025" clearance.

Charlie
 
If this is a certified airplane you can not re-bush the piece. You can make a brand new piece from scratch if you do it yourself, but you can not re-bush if the OEM does not approve of that.
 
I have ONE Cleveland torque plate in my shop somewhere. How I ended up with one is anybody's guess.

Nonetheless, I'd be happy to sell it to anyone who needs it. How's $50 plus $10 for Priority Mail sound?

The OP gets first shot at it, since he's the one with the possible problem.

Contact me at [email protected] No PMs please.
 
I have the same issue as Scott.

Was a solution to a worn torque plate found?

I can find better uses for $1000 than a couple of new ones...
 
For those of you with the pin/bushing clearance issue: Are the brakes working properly, or not?

The calipers need to "float", and need some clearance.
 
The cleveland brakes on my airplane (other airplane - RV not done yet) are 50 yrs old. There seems to be a lot of play between the 2 pins that the calipers slide on (called anchor bolts) and the bushings that they run in on the torque plate. Does anyone know what sort of tolerances are allowed before replacement is required? I have some evidence that these are jamming in the bushings. They say that you can't buy bushings for the torque plate, you have to buy a new plate for $500CDN. Yes, five hundred, not a typo. When I regained consciousness... Anyway I would like to know if I need to replace that or not, or the anchor bolts. I downloaded a maintenance manual from Cleveland but it did not provide that specific info. Any suggestions?

You can get a Match wheels and breaks for about the same cost. A pressure plate (Flat plate with holes) on my Cleveland caliper started at under $200. By the time I decided I needed one, it was up to $286.
 
Back
Top