What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Fuel tank Access Kits, screws or rivets?

edclee

Well Known Member
Patron
Looks like I have to go into the tank on my 9. I have the back baffle leaking through the rivets which are OUTSIDE the tank, so it is coming under the lip of the baffle. Question is, after reading probably 100 posts on tank repair, there appears to be some choices. The "Kit" that vans sells for $11.50 per hole is a flat round plate with 25 closed end blind rivets, which seems easy enough, but I have seen pics of access holes with a doubler riveted in with the cover plate held on by screws. Any input on which is better? I guess if future invasion of the tank is needed the screwed on cover is easier than drilling out 25 rivets? Has anyone done both?
Ed
 
Make sure you're comparing apples to apples. There is a tank access plate as part of the RV tanks which holds the fuel sender. This access plate has a doubler ring and is held in place with screws so you can access the fuel sender if needed. It's located on the inner end rib.

The repair kits are different. They are holes you cut in the rear baffle of a completed tank to make the leak repair, and then you patch the hole with the round plates from the kit. I guess you could make that repair patch removable again by adding a doubler and screws, but that seems excessive.

Also, don't give up the ship too soon on making a repair without cutting into your tank. If it's just a single specific leak along the baffle to skin joint, you may be able to drill out 3-5 rivets at that location and coax some proseal back into the joint there.

I had massive leaks all along the baffle to skin joint. I drilled out ALL the baffle rivets and removed both baffles entirely. Cleaned out the whole joint and re-did both tanks entirely. I still ended up with one small leak on one tank along the baffle. I drilled out 5 rivets and pried the skins apart by inserting a popsicle stick in there. Added some thinned proseal, and then added an extra layer of sealant on the outside after it was done. Tight now. And my repair kits are still in the box from Van's.
 
I prefer using the AD-41H pop rivets on those repair cover plates, they are quick, easy, & seal more predictably than screws. & they are super simple to drill out if you have to go back into the tank later. Don't over complicate the repair any more than you have to.
 
The repair kits are different. They are holes you cut in the rear baffle of a completed tank to make the leak repair, and then you patch the hole with the round plates from the kit. I guess you could make that repair patch removable again by adding a doubler and screws, but that seems excessive.

Actually, you can drill out the sealed rivets and use a thin putty knife to remove a repair disc/plate. It's a little work but do-able. If you have to do that just install an new plate instead of trying to clean the proseal off of the old one. The plates are cheap and you'll be $$$ ahead doing it that way.

-Marc
 
Clay, I think you might have the best idea. No holes to cut, no access covers to fit with rivets. Just remove the entire baffle. I am thinking that might be the best solution. I have three rivets leaking on the outboard end and one leaking on the inboard end and have confirmed in at least one place fuel is seeping completely through the proseal under the lip of the baffle bottom. An inspection through the gas filler cap hole shows up some soft proseal along the vertical seam of the baffle at the outboard rib. Poking it softly with a long chop stick easily moves the proseal. These are factory quick build wings and tanks, but I am thinking there is a proseal mix problem and I may never get that baffle sealed properly without removing it.
Ed


I had massive leaks all along the baffle to skin joint. I drilled out ALL the baffle rivets and removed both baffles entirely. Cleaned out the whole joint and re-did both tanks entirely. I still ended up with one small leak on one tank along the baffle. I drilled out 5 rivets and pried the skins apart by inserting a popsicle stick in there. Added some thinned proseal, and then added an extra layer of sealant on the outside after it was done. Tight now. And my repair kits are still in the box from Van's.
 
What portion of the baffle is that? Is it possible to gain access from the access plate on the side of the tank. I believe the RV9 has the same access panel on the side as RV6,7 and 8.

I have not done any repairs on the tank but based on what I have learned in talking with others the best repair/seal is from inside and cutting a hole on the baffle does not seem to be that difficult.

BTW, if I was going to cut a 5" hole, my way would be to use a hole saw cutter which is rather cheap and run it backward with your drill. The tooth are coarse but running it backward will do a OK job.

Good luck
 
Clay, I think you might have the best idea. No holes to cut, no access covers to fit with rivets.
Ed
Not what I would recommend.
Installation of the rear baffle is where most people end up with a leak (if they have one).
Removing the baffle would force you to walk that path again with the potential for a new leak.
 
Leaking Baffle

So a tank access hole is your recommendation Scott?
Ed

Not what I would recommend.
Installation of the rear baffle is where most people end up with a leak (if they have one).
Removing the baffle would force you to walk that path again with the potential for a new leak.
 
Back
Top