What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

RV-9A, pilotjohns

Think i am getting the hang of this

I think i am getting the hang of fiberglass stuff.

I have been working on the windscreen fairing.
In the las post, I was final sanding the edges to the proper width using the impression of the electrical tape as a guide. this worked out well. the fiberglass picks up every fine detail of the mold, so two layers of electrical on the plane to define the windscreen edge produces a very clear line to sand/trim to.

I am now following DanH's excellent post right here of VAF for the fiberglass finishing. I covered the outside in epoxy (epoxy straight with no fillers or additions) and covered the outside with peel ply (Dacron fabric). This produced a very nice even finish that has grip for the next layer. The next layer was a covering in epoxy and microballons, like DanH suggested.

I started sanding down the micro mixture. I was doing this on the bench, but there it was hard to hold the windscreen and get a good sanding perch. (first picture below). Today I laid down some vinyl tape on the plane, and set the windscreen on the plane to hold it while I sanded. This worked out much better. It was like the holding fixture (the plane) was custom molded to the fixture (uh it actually was) (sarcasm)

Seems this will work out well. This method doesn't seem so bad, I just need to be very careful with sandpaper next to canopies.

I still have to do the rear skirt. But I learned that neatness counts; the better the mold (in this case the placement of the packing tape) the much less work the finishing becomes.
 

Attachments

  • B744BCC3-ED6F-4360-8453-EDE17555DD20.jpg
    B744BCC3-ED6F-4360-8453-EDE17555DD20.jpg
    362.6 KB · Views: 245
  • 9A2E36C6-3B01-4288-82DA-0EC594DC7E7D.jpg
    9A2E36C6-3B01-4288-82DA-0EC594DC7E7D.jpg
    388.7 KB · Views: 255
Last edited:
Progress

So the front windscreen is coming along, but turns out fiberglassing resin is back ordered. So decided to move on to the rear skirt to make the best use of my precise supply.
After several false starts I found a method to bridge the gap and make a nice base for the first layer of fiberglass. I am using thin styrene sheets, with a small bent over lip for support. The orange tape defines the finished edge position. I ended up making a doghouse form out of styrene too.
 

Attachments

  • 649B5056-AB3A-4A6D-92E2-40956EFD38C0.jpg
    649B5056-AB3A-4A6D-92E2-40956EFD38C0.jpg
    353.3 KB · Views: 226
  • 0B1022DF-35C5-49F3-8D25-0785788C76FA.jpg
    0B1022DF-35C5-49F3-8D25-0785788C76FA.jpg
    348.2 KB · Views: 247
I just got the windscreen glued in with sikaflex. What a mess.
First, I made up spacers that go on the roll bar to set the height of the windscreen to match the canopy.
Second, I used 1/2” 3m fine line tape to mark where I wanted the glue on the plane and then matched to the windscreen when in position. I then added fine line tape to each side, and removed the original tape marking the bonding location on both. This left a double line on the windscreen and fuselage defining where the primer and glue would go.
Lastly, I applied activator and primer to canopy and windscreen. Then applied sika to the fuselage (rollbar) and carefully positioned the windscreen on fuselage and clamped.

Once I started breathing again, I pulled off the fine line tape, leaving a nice, clean fillet.

After the sika dries and I get all the stuff out of my hair, I will remove the spacers and fill in the fillet to make it look pretty.

Update: Next time I will remove the tape on the inside, between the windscreen and the glare shield prior to marrying the windscreen to the fuselage/roll bar; it is very difficult to remove once assembled. This means care must be taken in applying the glue to the fuselage and roll bar because the tape will no longer save a messy install.

I might have missed it but what primer did you use on the bare aluminum? Was it the 209D?

The reason I ask is that an old thread brought up the issue that 209D was for painted surfaces and not for bare aluminum. That old post thread came to light just after I sika'ed my windshield in with 209D.
 
Primer

I might have missed it but what primer did you use on the bare aluminum? Was it the 209D?

The reason I ask is that an old thread brought up the issue that 209D was for painted surfaces and not for bare aluminum. That old post thread came to light just after I sika'ed my windshield in with 209D.

The windscreen is in and will also be held in by the fiberglass windscreen fairing which I also will glue in with 209d and sika. I dont think it is going anywhere.
 
Last edited:
Rear skirt

Rear canopy skirt is glassed. I only used 4 layers because I ran out of cloth. But I am using the Aeroepoxy2032, which has a higher glass transition temperature than West Systems, so after a week, this thing is stiff; it appears there was no need for a thicker layup. (if one is using West System epoxy resin, I think a fifth layer will be needed for strength)

The glass transition temperature is the temperature when the fiberglass starts to go soft once fully cured. West Systems is around 140F and the Aeropoxy 2032 is about 194F. The Aeroepoxy resin with the higher glass transition temperature also seems to be more rigid at room temperature too, and I know it will not go soft when I am out in the desert and the canopy pieces get up there in temperature. Seriously Death Valley gets to 130F
 

Attachments

  • 7ECCF5D3-C124-4879-BD07-8B98A6C8848C.jpg
    7ECCF5D3-C124-4879-BD07-8B98A6C8848C.jpg
    413.5 KB · Views: 225
Last edited:
Fiberglassing - Final Stretch

This week I got the front and rear skirts smoothed out enough with microballons / epoxy mixture to shot the first coat of primer.

I am using the Sherwin Williams sandable primer that builds up about 0.001" per layer. This stuff is really sweat. It goes on easy, sands well and produces a really smooth finish with 320 grit dry.

After first sanding, I found lots of defects in my fiberglass microballons / epoxy coat. For the final finish coat, I am going to shot over the primer with an Sherwin Williams aircraft paint, not so much to provide a finish painted surface, but rather to protect the primer and my final surface finish for the eventual aircraft painter. This paint and primer is compatible with the glazing compound one finds in the auto parts stores; making filling the pinholes and imperfections much easier and quicker.



For the windscreen, I squeegeed on a pure epoxy coat to fill the imperfections, but this didn't turn out so well. I ended up sanding most of the epoxy away to get it smooth again. The rear skirt I just smoothed with micro and epoxy, but I tried adding cab-o-sil to thicken it, and this was also a mistake. If I ever do this again, I will probably just do two coats of micro and epoxy; the first coat being thick to fill the big gaps, the second being thinner to fill the pinholes and remaining imperfections.
 

Attachments

  • 285AF5D1-A452-45CD-A5A6-64E6ABEADB4E.jpg
    285AF5D1-A452-45CD-A5A6-64E6ABEADB4E.jpg
    448 KB · Views: 208
Done?

So I think my windscreen frame and aft skirt is done for now. They are primed and (nearly) ready for the painter. I say nearly because it was perfect until I tried a quick repair and ended up making a depression when trying to fix a small pinhole; the prep for paint will have to take care of it.

I plan to have them glued on this week using Sikaflex.

Commenting from a earlier post, the fiberglass using the Aeroepoxy is plenty strong with only 4 layers of 9 oz. I had 5 on the front canopy windscreen frame so if a passenger grabs it it would not crack. the aft skirt is 4 layers and it is plenty strong enough. I really like the Aeroepoxy. I only had one batch that didn't set up properly (possibly operator error?). I found waiting 3 days after the layup was necessary to sand properly.

I am already starting the cowl, which I expect to be easier since that is just fitting an existing part, as opposed to creating the windscreen frame and aft skirt from scratch. I learned a lot, but I wish I can stop learning and get finished.....

I thought this would take me a month, it took me three. A non-removal windscreen and aft skirt would have been faster, but would not be as easy to get nice. I am glad I took the time to make them glue on pieces; so much easier to finish.
 

Attachments

  • 764D277A-7434-4C03-B514-3A2CC41FF7A0.jpg
    764D277A-7434-4C03-B514-3A2CC41FF7A0.jpg
    430.4 KB · Views: 182
Last edited:
Cowling continuing

I glued on the windscreen and aft canopy skirt with Sikaflex; This went as planned with no real drama.

I am working on the cowling now. I have the new nose gear, so the bottom is attached not with hinge material, but rather with screws into a plate. The sides and top still use the hinges.

I decided long ago that I would get the cowling and baffling done before putting the plane on the gear. So far the plan is working out well.

Today I drilled the bottom attachment screws 1/8" for cleco's. I will up drill for the 8-32 screws once every thing fits.

I found getting the front of the top and bottom sections trimmed and fitted was the secret to making the rear part line up correctly.

Attached is a picture of how I used a bottle jack to push everything into position to drill the bottom screw holes. Having the plane on a low stand, and not on the gear, really paid off.

I just need to do final trim on the fuse sides and the cowling sides, then install the hinges.

I will probably finish the baffles, the flap motor, elevator control linkages, and all the stuff inside before putting it on the gear.

It is starting to fell like a real airplane in pieces, just ready for some Krazy Glue and baking soda to finish up.
 

Attachments

  • DB279D48-13CC-4238-9A62-FF8EB4B3CB59.jpg
    DB279D48-13CC-4238-9A62-FF8EB4B3CB59.jpg
    504.3 KB · Views: 252
  • 49071425-543E-4655-BB0E-06FBA5DEF64D.jpg
    49071425-543E-4655-BB0E-06FBA5DEF64D.jpg
    311.8 KB · Views: 215
Last edited:
“I followed the plans and drilled the holes in the F-713 longeron on the center line, this puts the hole in the F-9101 close to the edge. But there is also a 3/16" bolt that goes thru this longeron for the front tank mount; everything must be dead nuts on. The F-9101 needs to have the edges radius per the plans, otherwise the holes in F-713 are pushed pretty far off as shown in the picture.”

PilotjohnS I’m up against this problem. Drilled on the F-713 centerline now it seems impossible for F-9101 holes to be 2D from edge. Were you able to meet edge distance in F-9101?
 
Remember

“I followed the plans and drilled the holes in the F-713 longeron on the center line, this puts the hole in the F-9101 close to the edge. But there is also a 3/16" bolt that goes thru this longeron for the front tank mount; everything must be dead nuts on. The F-9101 needs to have the edges radius per the plans, otherwise the holes in F-713 are pushed pretty far off as shown in the picture.”

PilotjohnS I’m up against this problem. Drilled on the F-713 centerline now it seems impossible for F-9101 holes to be 2D from edge. Were you able to meet edge distance in F-9101?

I dont remember what the final edge distance was, but it was pretty close. I did the best I could and called it done. If there is any doubt, I would recommend you call Vans support.
 
I dont remember what the final edge distance was, but it was pretty close. I did the best I could and called it done. If there is any doubt, I would recommend you call Vans support.

Thanks, that’s pretty much where I am. Wish they hadn’t cut it so close.
 
Status

Well cowling hold down pins are in and done.

I cleaned up the inside fuselage area, like tying up wires, adjusting flap mechanism, installing alternate static switch, etc

Also re installed all instruments and completed panel.

Started on the wheels and brakes, hoping to get this thing to stand on its legs soon.

The brakes and wheels installation really took some research. Thanks to those who came before for posting.

And the second picture: Gear On!
 

Attachments

  • 08DA3992-58D6-4C5B-8FBA-DAEB73C1D1E9.jpg
    08DA3992-58D6-4C5B-8FBA-DAEB73C1D1E9.jpg
    519 KB · Views: 187
  • 6BFE012B-2CB6-4EB6-8945-9B658D224AE9.jpg
    6BFE012B-2CB6-4EB6-8945-9B658D224AE9.jpg
    497 KB · Views: 206
Last edited:
Funny

Congratulations. I'm certain that Spongebob Squarepants is so happy to finally be standing on his own three feet!

Funny you mentioned that. I was thinking of painting the wheel pants like a Vans tennis shoe, with the checkerboard and everything.
 
Flight Panel

My panel is done, ready for first flight

I was impressed with how much light the led strip on the glare shield throws onto the panel.
 

Attachments

  • 77CFD998-692F-4ADD-A409-5A0AB083629D.jpg
    77CFD998-692F-4ADD-A409-5A0AB083629D.jpg
    315.3 KB · Views: 711
Super cool

Great job John. On my g3x fuel calibration I was fooled by “in flight” and/versus” on the ground” calibration. Next time for my level nose-wheel tri-gear plane I will only use in flight and fill in one gallon increments on each tank to get it as accurate as possible (the on ground is really for tail wheels). I called garmin and they agreed I could skip the on the ground calibration for the A model. Just maybe raise the tail a couple inches to get the most accurate “in flight” calibration. Looking great.
Cal
 
Ideas for consideration

HI John -

My panel is similar to yours, but yours is nicer. Here are a few configuration ideas to consider...
* The parameter bar can show all kinds of neat navigation data. Don't waste that space with too many frequencies! I have the GTN comm frequencies on the left screen so I can use database tuning or key pad tuning -- both of which I only occasionally do. I doubt that you'll need those features for both of your comm radios.
* I put the GTN NAV frequencies on the left end of the right screen. At my home field, with two ILSes, this makes it super easy to swap them.
* Not sure why you've got transponder both on the GTN and the PFD.
* On the PFD, note that there is lots of unused space to the left of the airspeed and to the right of the vertical speed. For this reason, I fly with split screen almost all the time, so that whatever else I want to see can be half screen, not inset window.
* On the MFD, notice that almost all of the information is contained in the center of the screen. If the MFD goes to split screen, you can move that most useful information to the left, where it will be more readable. You can also use the other half screen for whatever, although it will be far away.
* On my plane, I put an additional set of engine instruments on the right side of the MFD, so that the right seater has a readable set. The theoretical downside is that if the left screen fails, those engine instruments are far away. Like I said, theoretical.
* The G3X already has programmable low voltage and Hobbs functions. Not sure why you duplicated those. Good to see you have an IDENT button, that will probably be handy.

I've probably got some details wrong from not reading the photo correctly, but you get the idea.

Be well!

Ed
 
Thank you

Ed,
Thank you for the post, it is very helpful.
I was going to wait till first flight to configure my screens, but I will do the changes you recommended. It would be nice to start flight test with a configuration that works for other, more experienced pilots.
 
Water for tank calibration

I don’t know. Using avgas was a hassle in the hanger- I read Dan H’s and other warnings about causing hanger fires if you don’t ground your fill/drain 5 gallon jugs. For the brief time water would be in the tank I doubt it would hurt. You are supposed to flush the system several times with avgas anyway. You would have to make sure you keep sumping for water for a bit. Not sure if anyone in the brain trust has tried this.
Cal
 
Nice panel. It seems to be similar to my configuration, but for some reason I have a lot more switches.

I'm curious about your thoughts on having a separate Hobbs. The G3X has some engine timer capability so I'm curious about your thoughts on the need for a separate meter. I had a conversation with Draker about this and I realized I didn't have a separate Hobbs, but I could easily add one. I'm curious if this just something you are used to or if there is actually a shortcoming of depending on the G3X.
 
Water is 40 percent more dense than gasoline implying the float on the sender would ride higher in the water than gas at the same level.
Yes you are correct, but higher based on the mass of the float as compared to water it displaces to support it. I dont think that will matter unless the air is absolutely smooth and my tank gauges are trying to measure 0.1 gallons. So I am going to go ahead and calibrate with water; I will check the accuracy once I get to the airport.
 
Just me

Nice panel. It seems to be similar to my configuration, but for some reason I have a lot more switches.

I'm curious about your thoughts on having a separate Hobbs. The G3X has some engine timer capability so I'm curious about your thoughts on the need for a separate meter. I had a conversation with Draker about this and I realized I didn't have a separate Hobbs, but I could easily add one. I'm curious if this just something you are used to or if there is actually a shortcoming of depending on the G3X.

The Hobbs on the dash gives me a way to check how many hours my son or daughter "borrowed" my plane for, without me having to fire up the G3X.
 
Well done! What an accomplishment. I am plugging along and it seems insurmountable at times...
Proof there is an end to this!
 
No more skinny legs

I was able to get the wheel pants and the leg fairings on this last week. No more skinny legs.

Using two laser levels from Harbor Freight made it easier than the factory instructions. One level kept it aligned, the second was used to mark where to drill the holes in the brackets when the pants were placed on.

As you can see in the picture, I did it before the wings were on. I can not see doing this with the wings on. I pity the fool...Mr T
 

Attachments

  • 08D2A7D7-9E02-4AD7-9FBA-FA3CE39F4A57.jpg
    08D2A7D7-9E02-4AD7-9FBA-FA3CE39F4A57.jpg
    517.9 KB · Views: 242
Last edited:
Just when you thought....

Well done! What an accomplishment. I am plugging along and it seems insurmountable at times...
Proof there is an end to this!

Several months ago, when I was finishing the canopy, I too thought I would never get done. Then I made a list of everything I need to do, and started to see the list get smaller a little at a time. Now I can see the end is near....
 
Several months ago, when I was finishing the canopy, I too thought I would never get done. Then I made a list of everything I need to do, and started to see the list get smaller a little at a time. Now I can see the end is near....

That is a very good idea! I will make a list too.
I have waited to get it on its gear but with the wing tips finally complete, it is time.
Great work John!
 
Holy mackerel John!
An Aero eng. physicist!? I bet the wiring was easy for you...
I guess I know who to call when I see smoke in my system HAHA
 
Gear leg stiffeners

I followed Paul Dye’s lead and used adel clamps, one of each size and one layer of gorrilla tape instead of the rubber inserts. I wanted some adhesive that would grip the legs and not let the clamps wiggle down the tapered leg.

I bent the adel clamps so the gap was centered on the hoop, if that makes sense. I ended up putting the metal between the adel clamps to align the metal with the centroid of the legs.

For screws I used steel button head allen type 10-32s and thin (shear) self locking nuts.

The clamps worked out to be exactly the same distance apart with the total distance between top clamp and lowest about 20.25”

I am really happy with the way it turned out, but proof is in the first flight. Tell then….
 

Attachments

  • stiff3.jpg
    stiff3.jpg
    844.6 KB · Views: 280
  • stiff2.jpg
    stiff2.jpg
    673.3 KB · Views: 213
  • stiff1.jpg
    stiff1.jpg
    625.7 KB · Views: 236
Wheel pants completel

Wheel pants are on and complete, ready for first flight. What i thought would take me a week took four.
 

Attachments

  • 6D7B1139-9C9A-40A8-8316-10FFDC8777CE.jpg
    6D7B1139-9C9A-40A8-8316-10FFDC8777CE.jpg
    489.4 KB · Views: 199
Ranps ugh

It appears my ranps were trimmed too much at factory, like by a lot. I am having to add fiberglass to give a perch for the baffle material. Ugh.

The center section needs more trimming and glass laid over to make a smooth ramp for the center baffle material.

Jcarne built a 7a a year ago and his ramps were much better and seemed to not require the stuff i am doing. YMMV
 

Attachments

  • BBD52676-F030-440C-93D1-D7CDF42D16AA.jpg
    BBD52676-F030-440C-93D1-D7CDF42D16AA.jpg
    545.3 KB · Views: 143
Last edited:
It appears my ranps were trimmed too much at factory, like by a lot. I am having to add fiberglass to give a perch for the baffle material. Ugh.

The center section needs more trimming and glass laid over to make a smooth ramp for the center baffle material.

Jcarne built a 7a a year ago and his ramps were much better and seemed to not require the stuff i am doing. YMMV

Ya man, mine definitely didn't need all that build up on the sides. Looks like you got unlucky on that one. Kind of like I did on my emp. gap cover that I eventually threw in the trash. haha

Looking forward to seeing that thing fly man!
 
In spite of

In spite of Santa Claus, I was able to get the ramps glassed and the baffle bypass for the #2 and #3 cylinders in. The bypass is needed to get cooling air to the cylinder fins underneath the intake port; normal baffles have these fins in stagnant air. I am going to paint the baffles white as soon as I finish obsessing the fit to the cowling, so I pre-painted the bypass areas.
 

Attachments

  • F42740A7-7911-4C5B-AF8C-22DA3F0626E5.jpg
    F42740A7-7911-4C5B-AF8C-22DA3F0626E5.jpg
    456.3 KB · Views: 152
  • 4FF8282D-BC3A-44B9-B26C-57F446541BD1.jpg
    4FF8282D-BC3A-44B9-B26C-57F446541BD1.jpg
    521 KB · Views: 172
  • ED3938A3-358C-40DC-8FF4-82A1BE20DAB0.jpg
    ED3938A3-358C-40DC-8FF4-82A1BE20DAB0.jpg
    466.5 KB · Views: 213
  • D444A722-4E9F-473F-A19B-EE9A83159914.jpg
    D444A722-4E9F-473F-A19B-EE9A83159914.jpg
    378 KB · Views: 177
  • C6605829-5466-4F26-A915-E2F25A9C20FA.jpg
    C6605829-5466-4F26-A915-E2F25A9C20FA.jpg
    807.7 KB · Views: 142
Baffle final instal

I am doing final install on baffles.

I am already regretting painting them white……
 

Attachments

  • EFAA03D0-D6CA-49E7-9E60-C0EF8B7693F9.jpg
    EFAA03D0-D6CA-49E7-9E60-C0EF8B7693F9.jpg
    496.9 KB · Views: 279
Reasons

Why is that? I'd thought of doing the same, but also considering leaving them bare...
I painted the engine baffles white for three reasons. I hate looking for dropped washers with everything black. I had white paint left over from interior, and I was planning on using white or clear RTV to seal up gaps.

But they get dirty quick, and I found a missed rivet thats really going to show up now.
 
Status Update

Just an update, Baffles are on for good, just need to air seal fabric attached. In the pictures there is some purple tape on the lright front and left rear baffle. This covers the air bypass holes that brings air to the lower fins near the intake tubes that normally is stagnant.

Working air box, nearly ready for final install. I had to use the clearance blister and also a straight arm from the throttle body. The stock bent arm from the throttle body still hit the side of the cowl. Also, the blister supplied by Vans wasn't deep enough, so I added 2 pieces of 0.062" aluminum spacer to make the blister even more intrusive into air filter.

(Yes I wrapped the alternator with a paper towel to keep all the metal shavings out)
 

Attachments

  • 3B32DD07-BC3D-4457-883F-D8393FFDE921.jpg
    3B32DD07-BC3D-4457-883F-D8393FFDE921.jpg
    447.3 KB · Views: 192
  • 93F2867B-BF49-421B-B488-959470179F54.jpg
    93F2867B-BF49-421B-B488-959470179F54.jpg
    427.4 KB · Views: 204
  • 003614AE-EE0A-4585-81B5-F2DDD3887E7A.jpg
    003614AE-EE0A-4585-81B5-F2DDD3887E7A.jpg
    359.8 KB · Views: 232
  • EF5CA371-0179-4B95-8D11-AFC7C455B9DE.jpg
    EF5CA371-0179-4B95-8D11-AFC7C455B9DE.jpg
    446.3 KB · Views: 188
Last edited:
Exhaust Install complete

Exhaust install complete. This was not hard, but took a while to figure out the support positions to clear the newer version of the nose gear, get the pipes to clear the cowl, and allow for engine “wet dog” shakes. It seemed flimsy until all the screws were tight.
I had to modify the exhaust pipe brackets because they stuck inboard too far and hit the new nose gear mount. I just found some stainless strap and made two more angle clips that brought the vertical supports outboard more.

( pictures to follow)
 

Attachments

  • 9DDBE5B3-E8D8-4B59-9BA2-BBA33257DA5B.jpg
    9DDBE5B3-E8D8-4B59-9BA2-BBA33257DA5B.jpg
    282.7 KB · Views: 227
  • 05CB8397-13C1-4DB7-BF1D-F8EF7F16A3F3.jpg
    05CB8397-13C1-4DB7-BF1D-F8EF7F16A3F3.jpg
    293.1 KB · Views: 250
  • EF9DAEE7-7592-4EA9-99EB-F741552B4AEB.jpg
    EF9DAEE7-7592-4EA9-99EB-F741552B4AEB.jpg
    357.9 KB · Views: 259
  • 14913C96-0F7F-4418-BF6D-E27172F1F432.jpg
    14913C96-0F7F-4418-BF6D-E27172F1F432.jpg
    290.3 KB · Views: 236
  • DB20F79F-8A03-40AD-AC2B-689902A63389.jpg
    DB20F79F-8A03-40AD-AC2B-689902A63389.jpg
    261.9 KB · Views: 206
Last edited:
Exhaust install complete. This was not hard, but took a while to figure out the support positions to clear the newer version of the nose gear, get the pipes to clear the cowl, and allow for engine “wet dog” shakes. It seemed flimsy until all the screws were tight.
I had to modify the exhaust pipe brackets because they stuck inboard too far and hit the new nose gear mount. I just found some stainless strap and made two more angle clips that brought the vertical supports outboard more.

( pictures to follow)

Sponge Bob didn't offer any good ideas?
 
Funny fact

Sponge Bob appeared in my early pictures by accident, but he loved the fame so now he bombs some of my photos.

It is interesting to see the photos on VAF. When i started building, i thought I would never get to this stage, yet here I am, months away from first flight. Amazing effort. Could not have done it without VAF and all the people on here supporting me.
 
Last edited:
Rolling, rolling, gotta keep them rolling

As I continue to finish up the little projects….

Cabin heat is done. Had to make special mounts to keep it away from throttle.

Alternate air is done. The factory method of attaching the cable didnt work for me. So here is my alternate method. I might replace the terminal with a stainless version….after I sleep on it.

(I post the pictures and then find a mistake. Anybody else catch it?, answer in next post)
 

Attachments

  • DA67B2BD-1EC5-421A-9518-6771447BE493.jpg
    DA67B2BD-1EC5-421A-9518-6771447BE493.jpg
    310 KB · Views: 178
  • 5033DF24-E7C4-438C-939E-7E50A7A95924.jpg
    5033DF24-E7C4-438C-939E-7E50A7A95924.jpg
    395 KB · Views: 143
  • 2EA8E206-8714-4D16-B1DB-10C2097DF370.jpg
    2EA8E206-8714-4D16-B1DB-10C2097DF370.jpg
    443.7 KB · Views: 156
Last edited:
Back
Top