What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Flyboys Accessories Delrin Rudder Stop

TTaylor

Member
I've checked as well as I can in the forum to see if this question has been answered, and I'm coming up empty, so gonna give this a whirl. Prior to receipt of my kit when doing research on the great VAF, I'd decided that I wanted to upgrade to the delrin rudder stop due to prior issues that had been encountered. As I'm nearing completion on my VS and arriving at the step where the plans call for it to be installed, I realize that the material on the Flyboys rudder stop is too thick to fit between the upper and lower flanges of the rudder hinge bracket. It seems to me that this accessory is only helpful for kits that have the pre-SB-00002 rudder hinge bracket and stops.

Am I crazy in thinking I should just set the Flyboys stop aside and build on with the parts from the kit? Has the redesigned bracket and stops alleviated most of the prior issues?
 
I can't talk about the new bracket since I've been flying for over nine years. You do want to install this piece, you just may need to adjust it a bit to fit.

Just ask all the people that had rudder issues at OSH this year.
 
There was talk about these internal stops making stress on the hinge area.. I would stick with the factory external style.. seems to me that it wouldn’t pull on the lower bearing as much.
 
Thanks for all of the responses. I think I'll try to cut down the thickness of delrin to make it fit. Not sure how great it will turn out given I have to reduce it by about 1/3; if it doesn't turn out well I'll revert to the stock option.
 
It has a reduced moment arm between the hinge axis and the stop, compared to the factory design. Its loads are going to be greater than for the stock stop. For that reason, I did not use one on my RV-3B project.

Dave
 
It has a reduced moment arm between the hinge axis and the stop, compared to the factory design. Its loads are going to be greater than for the stock stop. For that reason, I did not use one on my RV-3B project.

Dave

The RV10 factory design already has an internal rudder stop. Im pretty sure it’s the only RV that does. As far as I can see it looks almost identical in dimensions to the flyboy one.

Anyway…. This internal stop cracked the rudder brackets so there’s now a SB and beefed up brackets. Probably tells you everything you need to know about internal vs external.
 
That interested me, so I looked up my set of RV-10 preview plans and saw this:

RV-10 Rudder Stop..png

The R-1007B are the stops. What struck me is that they are separate pieces. I don't know if the revised version is the same, but as pictured, the loads would be considerably lower if the two stop pieces were joined together so that they act as a single unit. The rivet loads on the hinge would be lower, too.

Dave
 
That interested me, so I looked up my set of RV-10 preview plans and saw this:

View attachment 29790

The R-1007B are the stops. What struck me is that they are separate pieces. I don't know if the revised version is the same, but as pictured, the loads would be considerably lower if the two stop pieces were joined together so that they act as a single unit. The rivet loads on the hinge would be lower, too.

Dave

That is the old style. Pictured is the new bracket and stock stops along with the Flyboys aftermarket stop. To make the aftermarket stop work with the new bracket I will have to mill it’s thickness down about .120.
 

Attachments

  • E9C16F52-5D03-4768-8AA7-CAB343EC579D.jpg
    E9C16F52-5D03-4768-8AA7-CAB343EC579D.jpg
    386.6 KB · Views: 131
Flyboy stop

That is the old style. Pictured is the new bracket and stock stops along with the Flyboys aftermarket stop. To make the aftermarket stop work with the new bracket I will have to mill it’s thickness down about .120.

I have the new Flyboy stop on my 7A. I had to make a shim to take up the extra space between the hinge brackets.
 
When I was at Airventure this year there were at least 3 RV10’s with rudder damage after the storm the Saturday night before Airventure opens. The one next to me had banged the stops so hard the rudder was hitting the trim tabs and they punctured the rudder skin. One time the rudder swung so hard to the left that the counter weight at the top kept going and twisted the top of the rudder.:(
Mine was fine. I built an internal control that holds the rudder pedals forward and locks the stick with the elevator in the neutral position. I never leave it outside without putting it in, even to go to lunch on a nice day.
 
That interested me, so I looked up my set of RV-10 preview plans and saw this:

View attachment 29790

The R-1007B are the stops. What struck me is that they are separate pieces. I don't know if the revised version is the same, but as pictured, the loads would be considerably lower if the two stop pieces were joined together so that they act as a single unit. The rivet loads on the hinge would be lower, too.

Dave

The new bottom hinge mount and stops are really tough, but they won’t prevent rudder damage. The RV10 next to me at Airventure had the top of the rudder twisted due to the rudder swinging to the stop so fast that the counter weight at the top kept going when the rudder hit the stop and twisted the top of the rudder.
 
When I was at Airventure this year there were at least 3 RV10’s with rudder damage after the storm the Saturday night before Airventure opens. The one next to me had banged the stops so hard the rudder was hitting the trim tabs and they punctured the rudder skin. One time the rudder swung so hard to the left that the counter weight at the top kept going and twisted the top of the rudder.:(
Mine was fine. I built an internal control that holds the rudder pedals forward and locks the stick with the elevator in the neutral position. I never leave it outside without putting it in, even to go to lunch on a nice day.

I would be interested in seeing your design. Do you have any pics?
 
Back
Top