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RV-4 info request

harleyl

Active Member
I've been asked to reskin the left elevator on an older RV-4 non PP. Does anyone have the plans page for the elevator they could scan and email to
me ? I've done RV 8 emps but they were all PP. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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My -8 empennage was non pp, so I have a little experience in this.. here’s what I did, you can take it or leave it.
I first marked out where the stiffeners go, then made them to length, tapered them, then drilled them to #42 or 41. Don’t go to final #40 yet. Then I laid them into the skins on their marks and matched them to the skins with #41, clecoed in place. Then I final drilled them to #40. Be careful not to debur too much.. the thin skins are easy to over do it.
 
Thanks for the info...the owner is not the builder and he doesn't have the plans or builder number. I was really looking for the trim tab cutout dimensions and it looks like the spar may need replacing so that part number is needed also. The original skin was cracked and the trim cutout was poorly done.
 
I would just build a new set of elevators.. don’t bother just reskinning.. just build the whole thing new. Plans from Vans are $10 on a thumb drive. You can print what you need at an office store and have them print the big 3 foot plan pages
 
A couple of thoughts, I recently built new elevators for my -4. You can build a new elevator easier and with better results than attempting to re-skin one. The original skin is .016, I used .020 skins which are less susceptible to cracking especially on bigger hp engines (180+). Proper trailing edge radius and application of rtv or pro seal to the area around the rear of the skin stiffeners and the trailing edge will lessen the likelihood of future cracks. You can re-use the control horn, hinges and the tips. You can match drill the hinge attach points on a new spar so your new elevator will fit exactly as the replaced one. You can easily add the elevator spar doublers per SB 14-02-05 when building a new one. You will need to build a jig if you want a straight part, the dimensions and jig plans are described in the builders manual. You will also need to make a squeezer from lumber and door hinges to get the proper trailing edge radius. There are also differences between the manual and electric trim versions. A full size trim tab skin template is necessary, if you are replacing the trim tab. I highly recommend getting the serial number registered with Vans and getting access to the builders manual and preview plans.
 
Yes, if it was up to me I would rebuild both elevators but unfortunately the owner wants to sell and only wants the cracked skin replaced. I have all the tools from building my 8. I just finished rebuilding my horizontal stabilizer for the SB so I'm pretty much up to speed. It would be nice to have the RV 4 drawing for that section.
 
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