Van's Air Force
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Need an oops rivet
- Thread starter md9680
- Start date
Just buy the “oops rivet kit” they will have the #30 and #40 rivets of various sizes. The NAS1097AD-4.something is what you need for the oversized hole, yet the NAS1097AD-3.something are awesome for nutplates. Google “Oops Rivet Kit” and spruce has the kit for $25.
An NAS1097AD4-X is an 1/8" diam. rivet with a head sized the same as that of an AN426AD3-X rivet.
That allows for it to be used as a replacement for an enlarged #40 hole by up sizing it to #30.
For an over sized #30 hole you would have to be enlarging to a #21 for a 5/32 diam rivet. I have never seen this size in an Oops rivet kit but they are available.
If you are replacing an AN470AD4-X rivet, that is not what you need though. You need another round head rivet (the NAS1097 is a flush rivet) and should just go up one size to an AN470AD5-X. Do not try and drive that large of a diameter rivet with anything less than a 3X gun.
Thanks for the response. It looks like the Ooops Rivet Kits I've found are for flush rivets. I'm trying to replace a AN470AD4-6 which has the round head.
Thanks for the info.
Perhaps it's possible to try another AN470AD4-6 rivet in the hole as it exists now. Either that or I'll order some AN470AD5-6 rivets from Van's if they're available for future use. I do have a 3X gun, etc. I had used a pneumatic squeezer which I somehow allowed to split the manufactured head. Perhaps I need to place the manufactured head on the forward side of the RV-14 HS Rear Spar instead of the back. The instruction on page 08-12 Step 2 of the plans says, "NOTE: Place the manufactured head of all inspar rib to Rear Spar Assembly rivets on the spar for clearance when the elevators are installed." There might be more clearance for the elevators if I place the shop head on the rear of the spar.
HFS
Well Known Member
NAS1241 & NAS1242 - "oops" Rivets Baby Brothers
Nobody seems to talk about these - Solid Rivet, Oversize Shank, per MilSpec, as listed in Genuine Aircraft Hardware, Inc catalog, Page 213 (Ref. Book 7).
These are rivets that have a standard size head (for the same "dash" number), but the shank is upsized by 1/64" (approx. .015"). As noted in the title block, they do come in both Universal Head & Countersunk Head shapes - which makes them suitable for repairing slightly oversized holes requiring a universal (domed) head.
Although a .015" diameter increase in size doesn't sound like much, in some cases it can make all the difference.
Example: You have a rivet location that is difficult to "buck", and because of the required "stick out" of the shank, you are having trouble keeping rivets from "clinching" over.
The standard pilot hole for a -3 rivet is a #40 drill bit - nominal diameter = .098", when you dimple that hole, with a similarly sized pilot on your dimple die, that hole diameter increases to somewhere between .104 - .105". With the -3 rivet diameter of .092" (typical - checked with micrometer), there is a significant "volume" that needs to be filled in the joint before any shop head can be formed. Ergo, the rivet shank needs to be quite a bit longer (microscopically) to both fill the annular void around it, as well as developing an acceptable shop head.
Since the enlarged, dimpled hole, is already (call it) .104" and the shank diameter of the NAS1241/1242 rivet is .107" (by msmt.) - by reaming out the hole (approx. .003") to .107-.108" to accommodate these rivets you get a "zero" clearance fit at the outset, and all of the rivets protruding length can be used for setting the shop head. In some cases, this will allow a shorter rivet (maybe only a 1/2 length reduction - but that may be enough).
Whenever I have these situations where clinching, or unacceptable shop head development is a possibility, I go the reaming route and shorter NAS 1241/1242 rivets.
Just my perspective - YMMV
HFS
Nobody seems to talk about these - Solid Rivet, Oversize Shank, per MilSpec, as listed in Genuine Aircraft Hardware, Inc catalog, Page 213 (Ref. Book 7).
These are rivets that have a standard size head (for the same "dash" number), but the shank is upsized by 1/64" (approx. .015"). As noted in the title block, they do come in both Universal Head & Countersunk Head shapes - which makes them suitable for repairing slightly oversized holes requiring a universal (domed) head.
Although a .015" diameter increase in size doesn't sound like much, in some cases it can make all the difference.
Example: You have a rivet location that is difficult to "buck", and because of the required "stick out" of the shank, you are having trouble keeping rivets from "clinching" over.
The standard pilot hole for a -3 rivet is a #40 drill bit - nominal diameter = .098", when you dimple that hole, with a similarly sized pilot on your dimple die, that hole diameter increases to somewhere between .104 - .105". With the -3 rivet diameter of .092" (typical - checked with micrometer), there is a significant "volume" that needs to be filled in the joint before any shop head can be formed. Ergo, the rivet shank needs to be quite a bit longer (microscopically) to both fill the annular void around it, as well as developing an acceptable shop head.
Since the enlarged, dimpled hole, is already (call it) .104" and the shank diameter of the NAS1241/1242 rivet is .107" (by msmt.) - by reaming out the hole (approx. .003") to .107-.108" to accommodate these rivets you get a "zero" clearance fit at the outset, and all of the rivets protruding length can be used for setting the shop head. In some cases, this will allow a shorter rivet (maybe only a 1/2 length reduction - but that may be enough).
Whenever I have these situations where clinching, or unacceptable shop head development is a possibility, I go the reaming route and shorter NAS 1241/1242 rivets.
Just my perspective - YMMV
HFS
NAS 1242 AD4-7 Oops Rivets (Universal Head)
I have some of these on hand, more than I will use, which is what I believe you are looking for. They are standard size universal head AD4 rivets, 1/64” oversize shank, used as “oops” rivets.
The length is -7, meaning you might need a rivet cutter or other method to cut them to the shorter length you want, but that is easily done. I ordered a quantity of them in this length so I could cut them shorter as necessary to avoid having to keep different lengths on hand.
If you PM me your address, I will be happy to mail some to you, no charge, if you think they can be of use.
I have some of these on hand, more than I will use, which is what I believe you are looking for. They are standard size universal head AD4 rivets, 1/64” oversize shank, used as “oops” rivets.
The length is -7, meaning you might need a rivet cutter or other method to cut them to the shorter length you want, but that is easily done. I ordered a quantity of them in this length so I could cut them shorter as necessary to avoid having to keep different lengths on hand.
If you PM me your address, I will be happy to mail some to you, no charge, if you think they can be of use.
I've slightly "pre-squeezed" rivets as well. Often takes a couple attempts. The first few attempts, with the rivet being being squeezed alone often start to tip over. They get stored in the circular bin in the corner. Sometimes, I'll "pre-squeeze" the rivet too much and it won't fit as well.
