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Common Deviations / Modifications from Plans

skyfrog

Well Known Member
I was wondering if anyone has compiled a list of modifications or deviations from the plans that are popular for the RV-9A or other models.

I would like to anticipate these modifications and perhaps make notations in the plans as I get to those sections. I don't mean engine or prop choices, but instead modifications from the plans that make life easier for the builder, or provide for future enhancements.

For example, adding the quick release pins to the canopy sounds like a modification I would want. I also understand there are: air intake choices; running wire considerations (XM antenna); built in ER tanks; detachable instrument panel; etc.

Eventually I'd like to have a list modifications to consider by section. For example:

Canopy:
- Quick Release pins for emergency.
- Tip-Up/Slider combination mod

Wings:
- Extend tank by 3 ribs for more fuel capacity
- Leading edge extened tank
Thanks
 
Some things I can think of off the top of my head:

1. Drill 3/4" holes in the wing ribs for conduit.

2. Enlarge the tooling holes next to the 7/16" holes in the left wing ribs that are used for the pitot line, so you can use it to run an AOA line with snap bushings. I didn't think of that until I had the top skins on, and it took a really long drill bit to enlarge the existing tooling hole. If you are sure you won't use a combined pitot/AOA probe (i.e. Dynon), you can skip this.

3. Drill a hole in each fuel tank end plate for a possible fuel return, needed for some fuel injection systems. You can always plug it if you don't use it.

That is all I can think of right now for the tail and wing kits.

Of course, the other list we need is a list of those extra things we should order with each kit. There are some good responses to my post on what to get with the fuselage kit, but it would be nice to compile such lists for every kit.
 
Watch the weight

John,
The slider/tip up is my next move. Luggage is a bear to get in and out.
Why the extended range tanks? Does your back/butt not hurt after three hours?

If you're considering really long cross-countries, OK. My buddy, Robby Knox, has the ER tanks in his -8 and one of the reasons was to be able to go to Bermuda and have nearly an hour reserve. What's yours?

Regards,
 
ER Tanks

If you plan to travel Extended range tanks are a extremely beneficial addition. The stock tanks are way too small for IFR travel where missed approach at the planned destination plus flight to the alternate airport plus 45 minutes of fuel reserve are required. Even with 17 gallons of additional fuel any real trip (to California, Florida or New York from Arkansas) requires one or two refueling stops. Fueling stops require time far in excess of that required to pump gas in the tanks. Fly around weather capability is greatly enhanced. I recently made some 3" span racing wingtips for races of 300 miles or less but for normal operations I remount the tip tanks and stock tips with all the required lighting.

Bob Axsom
 
If you're considering really long cross-countries, OK.

Yes, that's my reason also. I probably would make 2-3 hour, biologically necessitated stops, on a long trip anyway, but it?s nice to have a large reserve in case of unforeseen circumstances. Also, a trip to the Bahamas would be nice, stopping at various islands that have no fuel.

However, I just got to see the insides of a partially completed wing yesterday (Thanks Jeff). Now I?m not so inclined to go with ER tanks in the wings at this point. Perhaps a removable tank in the baggage area would be better.

Anyway, I am just looking for various options so that I can plan ahead and do some additional research. I realized that I hadn?t looked ahead in the plans to see where I might need to deviate from the plans for some feature, like the slider/tip-up. If I just blindly follow the plan, I might not be able to retrofit a feature later.

Thanks,

John Edwards
 
However, I just got to see the insides of a partially completed wing yesterday (Thanks Jeff). Now I?m not so inclined to go with ER tanks in the wings at this point. Perhaps a removable tank in the baggage area would be better.

John, could you explain this? I too think the stock tanks are smallish.
 
ER Tanks

John, could you explain this? I too think the stock tanks are smallish.

The current tanks are inboard, where the main spar in strongest. Extending the tank by three ribs looks like an acceptable plan, however extending them the full length of the leading edge may require structural consideration.

Instead, I read that someone placed fiberglass tanks in the baggage area. I assume this is similar to other baggage tanks I have seen where the tank has a small pump feeding fuel into one of the main tanks (at 8gph). With some design effort, I think one could make them removable in case you need the room.
 
Total weight distribution of the tank should be considered, as should total wing bending moment. Fuselage tanks will increase the bending moment at the wing root while pulling G's (or in turbulence), thus decreasing your available margin - not to mention playing with your CG while depleting the fuselage tank. Wing tanks eliminate the fuel-induced bending moment entirely, since the weight is common with the lift. Weight is weight - you still have to carry it - but there are advantages (and disadvantages) to WHERE you carry it.
 
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If I had to...

The current tanks are inboard, where the main spar in strongest. Extending the tank by three ribs looks like an acceptable plan, however extending them the full length of the leading edge may require structural consideration.

Instead, I read that someone placed fiberglass tanks in the baggage area. I assume this is similar to other baggage tanks I have seen where the tank has a small pump feeding fuel into one of the main tanks (at 8gph). With some design effort, I think one could make them removable in case you need the room.

I would put the fuel anywhere to make a ferry flight. But if it is to be a permanent part of the plane, I would put it in the wing.

Number one reason is in an accident (tip-over or anything else) I would not want to be sharing the cabin with a lot of fuel.

The second reason to go with the wing placement of the fuel is that it would be closer to the CG. Using up the fuel would not cause much shift in the CG.

The third reason that I would go with the wing is 'the wing carries the plane not the plane carrying the wing'. You would be placing the extra weight of the fuel in the structure that is doing the lifting. This would reduce the required strength of the wing to fuse attachment. Not that I would recommend leaving out some of the bolts.:eek:

The down side on the extra fuel in the wing (besides a little weight gain for the plane) would be increased turning moment. I don't think that in a 9 or 10 this should effect the enjoyment of the airplane.:)

I didn't add ER to my 9A, but have seen others have done this. I think that adding two extra bays on the leading edge is probably the easiest way to go.

Kent
 
Modifications continued

So far I have the following:

Canopy:
- Quick Release pins for emergency.
- Tip-Up/Slider combination mod

Wings:
- Extend tank by 2 or 3 ribs for more fuel capacity (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=12883&highlight=extended+range)
- Access panels in forward top skin
- ?? holes in ribs for wire conduit
- Fuel return in tanks for fuel injected systems

Panel:
- Affordable Panel's modular panel. (http://www.affordablepanels.com/)

Cockpit:
- Oxygen
- Fiberglass fuel tanks in baggage area

Tail:
- Wire conduit in VS for (XM , GPS receivers, Camera)

This is a good start. Do we have any others to add?

Eventually I'd like to add links (to the thread or website) for all the information.
 
More Modifications

John,

Here are a few more to consider, some I've done and some I'm planning:

Wings:
- Duckworks landing light in each
- Oriented tank vent elbow opposite direction to allow an RV-10 / Rocket style vent (coil in wing root), see http://www.pflanzer-aviation.com/RigFinalAssembly9.html
- homebrew Lift Reserve Indicator on one wing inspection panel see http://www.ch601.org/resources/aoa/aoa.htm

Fuselage:
- parking brake
- conduit under seats & baggage compartments
- drill right side bulkheads under longeron same as left for static line - use that for wiring to magnetometer
- mount magnetometer behind baggage compartment up high
- improved tailwheel fork
- solid link vs. chains on tailwheel
- passing on the tip-up canopy release on the panel
- access panel forward of sub-panel ala Checkoway

Finish Kit:
- Sam James Cowl & Plenum
- Screws / tinnerman washers / nutplates on cowl to firewall seam, sticking w/hinges for top to bottom
- Sam James wheelpants (?)
- Aftermarket fairings for empennage and gear legs

George
 
Pierre,
One of my pet peeves is comparing airplane fuel capacity to human bladder or sit time capacity. The two are not related. I do not think I should have to pump fuel every time I land. We do not by gas for our cars after every trip either.

So, more fuel is good, and the ability to have some extra fuel if we do not have full seats is a great convenience.

I have a Cessna 210 on which I installed the Flint tip tanks. 16 gallons a side, added right to each wing ( with the old tips removed) with 13 number 10 screws into nut plates. That is all that holds them on. The loads out on the end of the wing actually reduce the bending load on the entire wing. A good place to put it. It now has 122 gallons total fuel. My son and I made a very nice non stop flight from western Washington state to Oshkosh one summer, 1446 nautical miles in 8 hours 38 minutes, with over an hour fuel in reserve. Fun, but I would not do it again, too long to sit.

Now building a Harmon Rocket that the first builder assembled with the standard 42 gallon tanks. I added a 15 gallon aux tank in the baggage compartment. It removes easily, and with a pump you transfer the fuel into the left main when there is room there. Full, it is 100 pounds, so with no back seat passenger I can carry some extra fuel for out and return flights without refueling and extended IFR range. This is good.
 
Its more than just about the bending moment of the wing. Extra fuel out there would cause a twisting force along the length of the wing which has to be borne, in part, by that tapered-down spar. The forces do get carried by the skins, too, which are also thinner out there, but unless someone has run the numbers, I would be concerned about what all the impacts are of having another hundred pounds or so of fuel out there. It would be nice to have a bit more fuel capacity, but building the fuel tanks as is is tough enough! :) Has Van's commented on these bigger tanks?
 
Modification Summary

Here are a few more to consider, some I've done and some I'm planning:

Thanks George, I combined your modifications into the list below. This is what I was looking for. Now I can at least research these modifications, and run-the-numbers as Jeff suggests, to see if they are desirable or not.

Are there any others????


Canopy:
- Quick Release pins for emergency.
- Tip-Up/Slider combination mod

Wings:
- Extend tank by 2 or 3 ribs for more fuel capacity (http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...extended+range)
- Access panels in forward top skin
- ?? holes in ribs for wire conduit
- Fuel return in tanks for fuel injected systems
- Duckworks landing light in each
- Oriented tank vent elbow opposite direction to allow an RV-10 / Rocket style vent (coil in wing root), see http://www.pflanzer-aviation.com/RigFinalAssembly9.html
- homebrew Lift Reserve Indicator on one wing inspection panel see http://www.ch601.org/resources/aoa/aoa.htm

Tail:
- Wire conduit in VS for (XM , GPS receivers, Camera)

Panel:
- Affordable Panel's modular panel. (http://www.affordablepanels.com/)

Fuselage:
- Oxygen
- Fiberglass fuel tanks in baggage area
- parking brake
- conduit under seats & baggage compartments
- drill right side bulkheads under longeron same as left for static line - use that for wiring to magnetometer
- mount magnetometer behind baggage compartment up high
- improved tailwheel fork
- solid link vs. chains on tailwheel
- passing on the tip-up canopy release on the panel
- access panel forward of sub-panel ala Checkoway

Finish Kit:
- Sam James Cowl & Plenum
- Screws / tinnerman washers / nutplates on cowl to firewall seam, sticking w/hinges for top to bottom
- Sam James wheelpants (?)
- Aftermarket fairings for empennage and gear legs​
 
Here is what I remember from my 9A project.

I didn't put in the quick release. ( wanted more panel space and knew I would never have a parachute to leave the plane with).

Put in two baggage floor compartment doors. (keep oil, tools in these)

build a hat rack behind the baggage compartment. ( I have never used it)

Kent
 
A couple of things other's have not mentioned...

Coat hanager
SafeAir1 Static ports
Sheet of loop Velcro for the top of the glair shield. (Sorry no picture but it works great to stick GPS & XM antennas up there.) BTW, it feels like velvet.
Small fire extinguisher
AirGizmo for whatever handheld GPS you have
SkyBolt Fasteners for the cowling
AirStopper tubes
Antennas (Comm, transponder, etc.)
Courtesy and red cabin lights
Throttle Quadrant <- One of my favorite mods
 
A few mods

Here's a few mods that I am working on for my 7A:

- center console
- center arm rest
- LED nav lights
- LED strobes
- wing tip landing and taxi lights
- fuse status panel
- controller and LCD with the following functions:
- fuel gauges for capacitive fuel sensors to solve the mogas/avgas
different densities problem
- audio TIVO so you can play back missed messages
- flap position
- timer and clock function

Tracy.
 
Peter,

I have a small embedded linux controller board that contains an audio codec, several MB of RAM, and several MB of flash. I should be able to interface to the RX channel from the radio, and continuously record audio to RAM, tossing out the older data on the fly. When you miss something, you could press a button and capture the last x seconds of audio and play it back.

I'm still getting up to speed on the controller board, so this is a ways off right now. Exactly where I tap into the receiver for the audio input and the audio out I do not know yet.

Tracy.
 
Another One

I was just working on my plane and noticed my new aileron boot holders, so add that to the list:

- aileron control tube boots

BTW, I made my holders from the circular cutouts from the tank end rib construction. Perfect size!

George
 
One more I don't see, but consider essential in my -9A is a sliding sunshade - the one that fixes to the center rail above your head - also fixes to the tip-up canopies as well. In addition, i think I will also install one of the forward tip up canopy devices to me slider - getting bulky items in the rear is a pain, and additional access would be helpful.

Allan
 
extra fuel

I know of an RV10 that has two full sets of fuel tanks in each wing. One inboard and one outboard with a little bit of space in between. I was thinking of doing the same thing only using half a tank on the outboards. I was also thinking of using andair's four tank fuel valve so I could burn off tip fuel first and then the mains similar to the Cherokee 235.:eek:

To solve the "how to run the fuel line problem" I figure on running the outboard line through the inboard tank. I might find out I'm all wet here, but it looks good on paper!!! :rolleyes:
 
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Don't forget...

I know of an RV10 that has two full sets of fuel tanks in each wing. One inboard and one outboard with a little bit of space in between. I was thinking of doing the same thing only using half a tank on the outboards. I was also thinking of using altair's four tank fuel valve so I could burn off tip fuel first and then the mains similar to the Cherokee 235.:eek:

To solve the "how to run the fuel line problem" I figure on running the outboard line through the inboard tank. I might find out I'm all wet here, but it looks good on paper!!! :rolleyes:

You will need four fuel gagues.

Kent
 
If you like to baffle your flying audience with dials go with four gages. But two gages and a switch or one gage and a switch as Pierre says is the best way to go. Less weight, less cost, less to go wrong and less complications.
 
Four gauges/four tanks....

The point that I was trying to make, but didn't explain correctly.:eek:

If you have four separate fuel compartments, then you need to measure and monitor them somehow.:confused:

If you have two compartments, but bigger, then you have half as much to monitor. Yes I know that there are planes out there that have dozens of fuel compartments, with transfer pumps and gauges and switches to manage it all.
Most small plane pilots are used to two tanks to manage.

Less things to manage, less likely to make a mistake. Remember that fuel mismanagement is one of the most common accidents type in small planes.:eek:

Kent
 
Long range fuel tanks

The benefits of being able to carry extra fuel are a mile long, but not at the cost of safety.

I have just finished designing and testing long range leading edge tanks for my RV7A. Having an Aeronautical Engineer as a close Friend was a great help.
It wasn't until he began listing the test that he wanted to conduct that I began to think it wasn't such a good idea.

After modifying just about every part of the leading edge we preformed a static load test, the test was overseen by the engineer just to make sure the tests were done to his satisfaction. Note: I built a tank just for testing.

The tank preformed really well, exceeding our expectations. 7.2 G's with no deformation of the skins or structure and a 9.2 G impact test with no major leaks.

There are other mods that need to be done to the lower outboard skins also to meet the extra loads that will be transfered from the tanks. The one problem we all have is that after testing the undercarriage it was found to be under done even without extra fuel.

Any one thinking of installing long range tanks should be aware that just because every thing looks good even after many hours of flight that it may not hold up at the most crucial time.

Mick

LongRangeTanks
 
I'll try to list mods I made and whether I would do them again or not.

Tail: Nutplated the elevator tips so I could check balance weight tightness. Probably a waste of time.
All ribs anodized. Nice, saves weight, eliminates corrosion

Wings: Not much here. LED position lights, tip mounted landing lights, anodized ribs. Happy with all.

Fuse: Removable steps (in case I ever decide to do some X-C racing.) Questionable value, but took very little extra time. Screws/nuts instead of rivets. Had to have removable baggage floor which took FAR too much time.
Removable baggage floor, bad idea unless you want removable steps
Extra care stopping air leaks. Boots on aileron push tubes, sealing around spar, etc. Well worth the time/weight/money.

Finish: Carbon fiber canopy. Saved 8 pounds, very tight as far as air leaks, looks and works great. Would never do it again if I had to deal with the same supplier.
Leather covered instrument panel. Looks great and ties everything together with the seats/interior.
Wish I had gone with something other than hinge mounted cowl.

FWF: Odessey battery. Do it!
E-mag. Saving 1 gal/hr, much slower idle speed for steeper glide angle.
3 blade Catto. Nice.

Bob Kelly
 
The point that I was trying to make, but didn't explain correctly.:eek:

If you have four separate fuel compartments, then you need to measure and monitor them somehow.:confused:

If you have two compartments, but bigger, then you have half as much to monitor. Yes I know that there are planes out there that have dozens of fuel compartments, with transfer pumps and gauges and switches to manage it all.
Most small plane pilots are used to two tanks to manage.

Less things to manage, less likely to make a mistake. Remember that fuel mismanagement is one of the most common accidents type in small planes.:eek:

Kent

I have considered the complexity, but it is no more complex than the Cherokee 235 I owned, plus nowadays we have all kinds of technologies that we can use on our homebuilds to help with fuel management.

I also think it would be easier to buy an extra set of tanks and cut them down, than to scratch build a larger set of tanks.
 
AFT Baggage Compartment

02042005015up0.jpg


This works well on the 9 due to the different airfoil which allows for a much further aft CG as compared to the 7. With my wife and me we can put on full fuel, 100lbs in the baggage compartment and 50lbs in the aft baggage compartment and still be within CG limits. Also we are still in with only 5 gal of fuel. If anyone would like more details you can PM me.

BTW... As was previously mentioned the boots over the control tubes are a must!

08032005008qw5.jpg


Also forgot to add the oversized oil cooler. Living in AZ this option has payed off in oil temps that rarely get over 180F.
 
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I think what you have done with your rear baggage bulk head looks good. But I was always under the impression that that bulk head was structural and is that not taking it away from being a structural member?
 
I think what you have done with your rear baggage bulk head looks good. But I was always under the impression that that bulk head was structural and is that not taking it away from being a structural member?


One frame back the aft baggage compartment wall is riveted in and below the aft baggage door the ?web? is screwed in place per the plans. I asked Van?s about the mod and all they suggested is a door with some fasteners. I wouldn?t think that would add much strength but that?s all they suggested. Here is an additional picture with the door closed. All in all with the aft wall riveted in, the door closed and the additional riveted in baggage floor this is probably stronger than the original design.

02042005013of8.jpg
 
I still think it's a great idea and glad to know that Van's said it was ok. Too bad it won't work on the RV-7 with that kind of weight. Never enough room in a plane if the wife comes along. I have my baggage area placarded for max weight of 60 pounds. If she saw it was good for 100 pounds it would be full to the maximum. This way less baggage goes.
 
I would work for me

I got a 2.25" prop extension with a C/S Hartzel hanging on it!

My FSDO rep had done this to his 9a so its always been on my list as far as future mods to do...One day maybe

Frank
 
Sam James Cowling on a 9A

I was wondering if any 9A builders or drivers have installed the SJ Cowling. Is it worth it in speed? Any issues encountered? Would you do it again as opposed to Vans stock cowl? Is it the same as on a 7A? I was planning on an O-320 with a CS prop. Thanks for any input.



Thanks George, I combined your modifications into the list below. This is what I was looking for. Now I can at least research these modifications, and run-the-numbers as Jeff suggests, to see if they are desirable or not.

Are there any others????


Canopy:
- Quick Release pins for emergency.
- Tip-Up/Slider combination mod

Wings:
- Extend tank by 2 or 3 ribs for more fuel capacity (http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...extended+range)
- Access panels in forward top skin
- ?? holes in ribs for wire conduit
- Fuel return in tanks for fuel injected systems
- Duckworks landing light in each
- Oriented tank vent elbow opposite direction to allow an RV-10 / Rocket style vent (coil in wing root), see http://www.pflanzer-aviation.com/RigFinalAssembly9.html
- homebrew Lift Reserve Indicator on one wing inspection panel see http://www.ch601.org/resources/aoa/aoa.htm

Tail:
- Wire conduit in VS for (XM , GPS receivers, Camera)

Panel:
- Affordable Panel's modular panel. (http://www.affordablepanels.com/)

Fuselage:
- Oxygen
- Fiberglass fuel tanks in baggage area
- parking brake
- conduit under seats & baggage compartments
- drill right side bulkheads under longeron same as left for static line - use that for wiring to magnetometer
- mount magnetometer behind baggage compartment up high
- improved tailwheel fork
- solid link vs. chains on tailwheel
- passing on the tip-up canopy release on the panel
- access panel forward of sub-panel ala Checkoway

Finish Kit:
- Sam James Cowl & Plenum
- Screws / tinnerman washers / nutplates on cowl to firewall seam, sticking w/hinges for top to bottom
- Sam James wheelpants (?)
- Aftermarket fairings for empennage and gear legs​
 
Rv 9 mods

Dynon/ gretz pitot
Hidden hinges for oil door
Glove box
Conduits for wires in wings
Static/pitot plastic pipes
Stainless steel heat door
Andair gascolator
Emags with auto plugs
Mods to nose wheel
Fancy handle for fuel selector
 
Bruce--Thanks for taking the time to document your build! I'm working my way through your build log.

I'm contemplating the 9A. I'd like the 10, but the total cost in and flight hour cost is looking a bit prohibitive. The 320 in the 9A is a nice solution.

I haven't sat in a 9 yet, so not sure if I would fit comfortably. I'm 6'3" and 200lbs.... The 14 is nice, but the 10 is much nicer.
 
Just me

When i visited Vans, the -14 had just come out. I had a choice to see both, but only fly in one.
I really liked the -14, but i just could not get my head around the difference in price. The performance was no significantly better, but there was a little more room for my wide sholders.

I ended up building a 9A and am glad I did. I think if i had chosen the -14, it would be on the shelf now waiting for funds.

My mods are a little different than Bruce's:
G3X instruments
Gretz pitot tube mount w/ Garmin tube.
new nose gear
elec trim all around
Io 320 w/ mags
PH aviation flap motor
Sikaflex canopy glue (no rivets in plexiglass)
Fiberglass rear canopy skirt
 
John - Thanks for posting your modifications!

I'll have to go through your blog next. I'm working my way thru Bruce's webpage. The Sikaflex is really a nice solution on the canopy. A lot of work, but really nice. I have seen the Sikaflex used in a few industrial projects that are exposed to harsh environments. Bruce--Thanks for all the details!!!

Do either of you have a pic on your blog of you and someone else sitting in the 9? i.e. shoulder space, etc.

I'm currently flying a Cherokee 140, so I'm trying to adapt my thinking on my actual requirements.... Reality versus perceived need.... I think the 9 would fit my mission quite nicely, but I like the idea of the 10, just not the cost. Before joining the Cherokee 140 flying club, I had toyed with the idea of buying a Beechcraft Sundowner. I had also gone for a flight in a Beech Musketeer 150 Sport.
 
I'm not a builder but...

...based on my maintenance experience, I would definitely install the PH aviation flap motor instead of the stock Vans model. It appears to be a much more robust unit and the built-in limit switch is just what you want.

For what it's worth, Vans' new design for the air box appears to be a major improvement as well. (https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/filtered-air-box-fab-instructions/). I had problems with the hinge on the carb heat door, and when I got in there it looked like I wasn't the first one to have that problem on 9JA.

You'll definitely want to try one on. If you're 6-3 and 200, whether you fit may depend on your seated height and also on how the panel is installed. Some taller people can have knee issues fitting into a -9 in my limited experience. Shoulder-width-wise, I owned a Warrior and I don't really notice much of a difference in cockpit width, but my ace copilot and I aren't very big.

The -9A is a nearly perfect aircraft in my opinion. Can't tell you how much I like it. If you fit in it, I doubt you'll go wrong.


When i visited Vans, the -14 had just come out. I had a choice to see both, but only fly in one.
I really liked the -14, but i just could not get my head around the difference in price. The performance was no significantly better, but there was a little more room for my wide sholders.

I ended up building a 9A and am glad I did. I think if i had chosen the -14, it would be on the shelf now waiting for funds.

My mods are a little different than Bruce's:
G3X instruments
Gretz pitot tube mount w/ Garmin tube.
new nose gear
elec trim all around
Io 320 w/ mags
PH aviation flap motor
Sikaflex canopy glue (no rivets in plexiglass)
Fiberglass rear canopy skirt
 
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best Change/addition

The best change i think I did was update the brakes on the rudder pedals to a stainless steel rod as a pivot, instead of the two bolts on each side. So many stories about brakes hanging up and it was really quick fix.
 
Bruce--Thanks for taking the time to document your build! I'm working my way through your build log.

I'm contemplating the 9A. I'd like the 10, but the total cost in and flight hour cost is looking a bit prohibitive. The 320 in the 9A is a nice solution.

I haven't sat in a 9 yet, so not sure if I would fit comfortably. I'm 6'3" and 200lbs.... The 14 is nice, but the 10 is much nicer.

6'2" here and around 200 lb and fit the RV9A fine, if you fit it a bit too snug have a look at the Antisplat Aero "almost a 14" modification and I think you'll have more than enough space.

The RV9A is a phenomenal aircraft indeed.
 
Big holes

Another change I did was enlarge the holes in the ribs that serve as baffles in the fuel tank. This allows for faster filling because it gives the escaping air an easier time to get to the filler neck. I think i enlarged the tooling holes to 1” holes top and bottom.
 
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