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Anyone put a tunnel/console in an RV-6

vfrazier

Well Known Member
Just wondering if anyone has built a tunnel (similar to the RV-4) or a console on the RV-6 floorboard between the rudder pedals? Did you find it useful for anything besides hiding wires and hoses? Got any photos?
 
Center console on floor

I mounted my battery to the forward side of firewall like in RV-7's in order to eliminate the battery box on the floor inside the cockpit in my RV-6. Considering how difficult it is to work behind the instrument panel I would seriously consider the negative impact a console will have. That said, it is an area that is often underutilized for cargo ahead of the CG on a normally aft CG aircraft. I have added securement straps in this area in order to strap down my tent and airplane stakes on trips to Oshkosh. A console storage compartment would provide improved securment and eliminate any possibility of cargo getting loose and interfere with the rudder pedals.
 
My hangar neighbor is in the process of fabricating and installing a console in his 6A. I will see if I can get some photo's.
 
I need some way to hide the filter and fuel inj. boost pump.

I don't think that the console should be very large, maybe only a rounded hump to cover the pump. I figure that the least that I could do is put in a cup holder ahead of the fuel valve while I'm at it.

Of course, it has to be fairly easy to remove to inspect wires, antennas, etc.

Any photos or ideas would be greatly appreciated!
 
RV6 center console

I put a simple .032 (as I recall) channel center console to house electric aileron trim, manual elevator trim, and intercom in my 6A. Works well I think...will post pictures soon.
 
I need some way to hide the filter and fuel inj. boost pump.

I don't think that the console should be very large, maybe only a rounded hump to cover the pump. I figure that the least that I could do is put in a cup holder ahead of the fuel valve while I'm at it.

I just used the RV-7A parts on my -6A for a starting point, modifying them slightly to work with the -6 wing spar carry through. Part of this was covering the space between the center two stiffeners resulting in a shallow tunnel through which wiring, fuel lines, and brake lines run forward.
 
I used Van's RV7 Boost Pump kit and tunnel stuff with fire wall mounted battery like Chiefpilot and others have done. It all fits perfectly with the exception of the aft side of the fuel selector. You can easily add in a couple of sheet metal pieces tied to your spar bolts to clean it up. Simple.
I chose to cut off the heater vent portion just below the vents to keep the back side of the firewall clear. You don't have to do that, but it makes inspections easier.
 
-7 console parts in a -6

Vince,

I fit the -7 center console into a -6. It took some minor modification at both the front and back ends, and a fiberglass layup to complete. But it turned out to be fairly easy to do and came out great. I'll e-mail some photos to you.
 
If you ever need to lay on your back underneath your panel to do any work later on, you want the least amount of obstructions possible in the middle of the cockpit floor area so you have room to move around under there. Personally I would not want any kind of center console tying up the space there. My -6 is pretty open there and still it's a pain to work underneath the panel.
 
Here are a few pictures of the center console in my 6A:

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Paul, thanks for the photos! Always useful to see what others are doing.

Neal, I've got wiring, the FI boost pump and filter, and associated hoses on the center floor already, so a "console" or "cover" of some sort will be required just to keep feet off of the fragile stuff.

I was hoping that a few others had done this already and had a few photos of the floor area "console". Several of you have given me some good ideas and I'll post a few photos of what I come up with. One way or another the stuff on the floor will be covered!

Neal, I do agree that working under the panel is cramped. Ugh. I wish that the RV-6 had a removable boot cowl like the Rockets and RV-4s. That was REAL NICE.
 
I'd like to thank everyone who replied to my original question.

I hate taking an interior apart just to paint and install upholstery. So, I've always put the paint and interior in first and worked upward and inward from there. I find that if I'm reasonably careful, the interior does just fine. Besides, touching up a few paint chips is easy enough to do later.

Here's what I came up with for the "console". I'm quite pleased with it (so far).

RV6%20floor.jpg


Hiding beneath the "tunnel" is the boost pump, fuel filter, and wiring (to be added soon). The wiring is easy enough to get through the spar (not shown) on an RV-6. Then it branches out everywhere from there. Getting through the rear spar will require moving over under the seats to avoid the elevator push rod hole in the spar. Other than that, it should be straightforward enough.

I added a couple aluminum angles to make a "Z" bracket out of the existing floor angles. This gives the new floorboards something to attach to. I did this because I've never been wild about the RV-6 uneven floor. My new floorboards do slightly reduce the amount of space beneath the rudder pedals, but I don't expect that to cause a problem. (I may raise the pedals slightly, but it probably won't be needed.)

You can't see it, but there is black, closed cell foam beneath the floor boards. The foam provides insulation and helps support the floorboards too.

RV6%20floor_1.jpg


I lowered the fuel valve so it wouldn't poke me in the back later when I'm working under the panel. The valve is still in plain site when sitting in the seat, and is still easy (for me) to reach.

Also, I made covers to protect the fuel lines from clumsy feet. Only the loop immediately adjacent to the fuel valve is unprotected. I'll just have to watch the passengers closely and remind them to be careful.

RV6%20floor_2.jpg


A bit of carpet from Home Depot's aviation aisle is just the ticket. Very inexpensive and lightweight. Yes, it could burn, but I'm willing to take some risks.

The carpet is covered with a bit of carpet protection film, also available at Home Depot. It's like a clear post-it note on a roll. Works great to keep drilling chips from sticking in the carpet. After all, I've got a long way to go to finish this bird.

The firewall is insulated with closed cell, flame resistant foam to help keep the heat out. Once again, yes, it could make nasty fumes if a fire occurred, but I'm willing to accept some risk to stay comfortable. (A propane torch will make this stuff smolder, and it smells bad, but when the torch is removed, the fire dies out.) YMMV, use your own good judgement.

RV6%20floor_4.jpg
I used my CNC to engrave the fuel valve bracket. It's hard to see in the photo, but nearly nothing of the original Van's fuel valve bracket remains.
 
Looks nice, Vince! I have floor panels on either side too, with sound-deadening foam underneath. No center console, though, and battery is in the stock location behind the firewall.

I've been thinking about making covers for the fuel lines too, to avoid wayward feet, but I was thinking of making nylon bags to sit there instead... Something that could velcro to the front of the spar, and would stick forward about 6" or so, maybe tapered narrower at the top and wider at the base. It would be a great place for your flight supplement, water bottle, point-and-shoot camera, etc. and would get some weight ahead of your CG for long trips.
 
Rob,

I've thought about doing something similar. Not for anything large, just for maps, pens, batteries, etc.

I would like to install a cup holder ahead of the fuel valve. That might be put off until flying though. I'd rather get her finished and then fool with the non-essential stuff.

I plan to stitch up some cargo pocket for the seat backs also.
 
For the seat backs, check out the Bison Mountain bags. Mine live in the airplane, that has to be the best way to get baggage into that location.
 
Hard to tell from the pictures, but don't forget to tie the .062 skin stiffeners to the the front of the wing spar. I've seen RV-6s that missed these with the result that the forward bottom skin is not as secured as it should be, possibly leading to smoking rivets down the line.

The stock fuel selector tower "legs" do this for the inner two stiffeners, while there are separate and specific parts for the outer floor stiffeners.
 
Brad,

Yes, that is a good reminder for everyone, even repeat offenders like me. It's ALWAYS appropriate to have an extra set of eyes checking your work. Thanks!

Those small angles are indeed easy to overlook and hard to find on the plans even when you know they are needed. The fuel selector "tower legs" will still connect the inner angles, the others will get a part made later.

I plan to make those bits when I install the wings. I may have mentioned, I bought this QB already started from another gent. I have yet to install the wings, but it will be fairly soon.

Rob, those Bison bags are awesome. I'd not seen them before. I already asked my wife to get one for my birthday (next Friday!).
 
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Console

I built one up out of .032. It fit over the top of the two center angles in the floorboards. It covered up the fuel pump and was attached to the fuel selector mounted on the wing spar. I made mine the same shape as the fuel selector side brackets, so it all "looked" like it was supposed to be there. I had the battery on the inside so the cover went all the way up to the battery box. I used 3/16 bolts to secure it that had nutplates mounted to the floorboard angles. I riveted some angles (.032) to the top of the cover on the inside but cut them down to clear fuel lines. I mounted a small fire extinguisher on it.
I wish I took some pics of it.....
 
Aden,

If you take some pics, please post 'em here for the future builders. Or send 'em to me and I'll post 'em for you (since they have to be hosted somewhere to post). [email protected]

Thanks for the reply!
 
I have my strobe power unit mounted on the floor behind the battery. it is covered with a screwed down lid. above that is a box for WAC chart book, snacks, water, camera, x/c stuff, all of which can easily be reached by pilot and passenger. another mod was to hinge the front corner of the battery box for quick access for charging without having to remove the entire cover. [which will happen at strange airport in the morning when you discover you left the main on all night and you need to get going because weather is moving in, of course]
 
RV-6 Tunnel

Sorry for the late reply ... yes .. I put in a tunnel .. it carries a gaggle of wires, the fuel lines, fuel pump etc. I'll dig up the pictures and shoot them to you.

Regards,

David W. Schaefer
N142DS RV-6A "Nerdgasm"
www.n142ds.com
 
Rob,

Thanks for the tip on the Bison Bag. I got one for my birthday and it is totally cool. Love it.
 
I made covers for my AFP fuel pump and the heater diffuser. I tried to use the RV-7 pump mount but the spacing between the angles was off just enough to not let it work without a lot of mods.

tunnel%20covers-sm.jpg

fuel%20pump%20and%20tunnel-sm.jpg
fuel%20pump%20cover-sm.jpg
heater%20cover-sm.jpg
heater%20cover2-sm.jpg
 
Vince, I love the way you secured the top of the tunnel with hinge material for a quick release way to inspect. Great idea. I have been looking for some way of hiding my wiring (I also have my red cube in that area near the firewall).

I especially like the curve to the side walls of the tunnel. Did you have to roll it a little like the forward sections of the rudder and elevators or is there enough flex that it eventually curves on its own? It's looks great and eliminates the "boxy" form factor.
 
Gary,

Van's makes (or used to make) a piece of rolled aluminum for use as wing root fairings. I think I had those pieces in my junk box for 20 years until hitting on the idea of using them for the tunnel sides. They are quite solid and definitely won't roll on their own.

The hinges are a bit of a pain to install, but I couldn't think an any alternatives that gave enough flexibility to get that stuff installed in a rather cramped area. Perhaps a velcro hinge would be just as good? Hmmm, too bad I didn't think of that until just now. :rolleyes:
 
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