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ring flush results

turbo

Well Known Member
excellent results. thank you savvy aviation for making me aware of this procedure. some comps were in the low 70's with air leaking thru the oil fill tube. with some fluid leaking out the exhaust pipe during the flush I also removed the valve cover and gave the exhaust valves a good hit with my huge rubber hammer. comps now back to high 70's and oil consumption up from qt/8 hrs to qt/15 hrs. carry on.
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It works

I think this is a useful trick. What did you do with all the "effluent"?!
The cleanup is the biggest hassle
 
Ring flush

I just did this in the last couple weeks.

I for one thought it would be a great idea if it would work. Nothing to loose and a possible cheap helper.
I have an RV-6A with an 550 hour 0-360 Channel chrome cylinders, CS prop, SDS fuel and ignition burning a quart in 5 hours Areoshell W100 on Costco Premium. Compressions all good and borescope clean.
I did the flush per Savy instructions on a cold engine.
Cylinder #1,3,4 all flushed fine, But #2 the prop wouldn't turn. Did it 5 times and prop VERY hard to turn and solution just dribbled out.
Flew for 5 hours and repeated 5 times on #2 on the hot engine. I got the solution to flush out at about 40 percent of the other ones. Prop still hard to turn, But, it turned.
So? did it do anything to reduce oil consumption NO
I found no change. Good? bad? Not mine to say.
I am going to fly for another 10 hours and flush #2 again.
I even ran mineral oil for 40 hours before just for giggles. Then change to Phillips 15 40
Probably just fly and burn oil, Runs and starts great.
Not going to complain cause I've heard of others oil consumption and tell myself, I maybe lucky.
My three cent worth, Obviously your luck may vary, Art
 
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Probably (always assumed) this is the original. Came from eth Camguard guy. It did unstick some rings for my hangar neighbor and help his oil consumption. Hung a sandbag on the prop because it was in hydraulic lock. Next day was able to flush with hand force only.
 

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  • Oil control ring solvent flush procedure (Ed Kollin, CamGuard).pdf
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Ring Flush

I’ll be doing this at the next oil change on my Pacer with Lyc O-320-A motor. It has 850 smoh and uses 1 qt/4-5 hrs. Chrome cylinders, good compression, runs great. Thanks guys for posting your results. I will do the same.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
 
turbo - - thanks for posting the results, a couple of questions if you don't mind -

a.What oil have you been using, predominantly.

b. does your engine have cooling jets under the pistons?

c. last - do you have timing advance, i.e. electronic ignition

Just curious as to some of the factors that influence the plugging of the oil return passages. I thought some pistons had larger return/relief passages, but I don't know much about these details.

Thanks,
 
turbo - - thanks for posting the results, a couple of questions if you don't mind -

a.What oil have you been using, predominantly.

b. does your engine have cooling jets under the pistons?

c. last - do you have timing advance, i.e. electronic ignition

Just curious as to some of the factors that influence the plugging of the oil return passages. I thought some pistons had larger return/relief passages, but I don't know much about these details.

Thanks,
a. 20/50 phillips
b. have no idea.
c. slick mags.
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Just did mine, 1,2,3 all flushed fine, could hardly get it to flush number four, tried 3 times. We’ll see if it frees up.
 
That means the flush will probably help. Hang some weight from the prop and come back tomorrow. Repeat as needed.
 
SeaFoam??

My neighbor had obviously stuck ring(s) in one cyl of an O-360. Compression was 35:80. I recommended the Camguard / Lycoming / Mike Busch flush procedure, but he was "too busy" for all that hassle.
So he changed the oil and poured in 8 oz of SeaFoam. After about 25 hours of high-power, cross-country flying the compression came up to 72:80. I was blown away!
That was 100 hours ago - still going strong. Good compression and low oil consumption.
Shazamm!
....just sayin'
 
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Seafoam

Before using Seafoam, please make sure that the rubber in your fuel tanks and fuel system are happy with alcohol. The MSDS does not have all ingredients listed, but they do list 10-30% isopropyl alcohol.

Another site says this:

The main ingredients in this sea foam include:

Pale oil, which accounts for 40 to 60 percent by weight
Naphtha accounts for about 25 to 35 percent of the total mixture
Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) makes up about 10 to 20 percent of Seafoam
 
Before using Seafoam, please make sure that the rubber in your fuel tanks and fuel system are happy with alcohol. The MSDS does not have all ingredients listed, but they do list 10-30% isopropyl alcohol.

Another site says this:

From what I have read, IPA is significantly less aggressive to things like rubber and plastic than the more familiar ethanols and metanols.
 
YEP, solvents and seals are to be wary of.
In my neighbor's case, he used the seafoam in the oil, not the fuel. We haven't noticed any problem with the front nose seal (so far). It sure cleaned up those rings, tho.
 
I like.
I did the flush on #3 and have about 10 hours in.
Have not pulled plugs yet to check, but consumption is lower.
Any maybe a little cleaner oil after change.

Amateur tip; careful not to pull all the way back from TDC to BDC prior to pour.
(at least on my IO-360). For me, the mix leaked back into the intake.
Stopped as soon as I began to pull toward TDC.
Clean out on intake was a bit of a pain.

On the first pour, if it is leaking into the intake, immediately pull prop forward just a bit, then continue pour.
 
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