VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

-POSTING RULES
-Advertise in here!
- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

Keep VAF Going
Donate methods

Point your
camera app here
to donate fast.






VAF on Twitter:
@VansAirForceNet

  #1  
Old 09-02-2018, 06:41 PM
N942R N942R is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Taylor, AZ
Posts: 38
Default ENGINE COOLING

MOST RV's do not cool properly.. There Iv'e said it... Depending on where you live most RV's do not cool adequately.. Ya we douse them with 100LL or climb at high speeds or reduced power and deal with it... The problem is that the Van's baffles do not allow the lower aft one fourth of the rear cylinders to get any or enough air... Also to a lesser extent the front lower one fourth of the front cylinders are not doing much better... Some have tried to add exit air which will
help a little just because the rest of the cylinder gets a little more air but does not
solve the problem...
Take the time and go look at the baffles on an old 60's Cherokee and you will see that they addressed those areas way back then... An instructor and student can beat up on one of those all day long without getting hot.... Ya they have a larger
opening but also going much slower so not much pressure..
The RV's need a duct down the back side of the right baffle and forward under the lower fin area of at least 1.5 square inches and the existing wrap removed from just below midpoint of the cylinder... Also the it needs a duct down the inboard side of the oil cooler and then forward under the fin area. Also 1.5 square inches and the wrap removed... Then holes cut in the baffles above to admit air into the
ducts of at least 2 square inches..
The front cylinders need almost 1 square inch down to below the midpoint of the cylinder and into the wrap..
For your information, I have built 7 RV's of different models, have around
1000 hrs in them, and have been around big bore Lycomings almost since they were first introduced.:: without divulging my age!!!!
It is a lot of work but these engines are expensive and we are kind of relying on them to stay healthy... I have seen 25 to 30 degrees F. decrease in head temps
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-02-2018, 06:48 PM
DanH's Avatar
DanH DanH is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 11,071
Default

Yep, you're right
__________________
Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-02-2018, 09:23 PM
F1R F1R is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: ____
Posts: 944
Default Sketches and photos are priceless and appreciated

Some sketches or photos of your detailed solutions would be appreciated beyond words.

And if that is too much work, just mail them to Dan Horton and he will post them give you credit.

Last edited by F1R : 09-02-2018 at 09:38 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-03-2018, 12:51 PM
N942R N942R is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Taylor, AZ
Posts: 38
Default ENGINE COOLING

As I said in the original post, it takes 1.5 square inches to feed those 1 1/4 deep fins below. Ya cant do it with a 1/16 or 1/8 space into the "wrap" or adding a washer to leave a little space... If you want your engine to be cooled properly you just need to bite the bullet and spend a day or three making some ducts to feed air down there... You will think you are flying a different airplane..... Re read my original post. It works.... The RV cowls have plenty of inlet and outlet area without luevers or cowl flaps or lips added on to them... Ya spent a year building an airplane, what is another day or two making the engine happy.....
High oil temps are usually the airplanes with oil squirts on the cams or pistons.
On those I have mounted the oil coolers on a NACA duct on the "Right side" of the cowl which will solve that problem.. Nothing wrong with the coolers... But that is a separate issue........
Please go look at an old Cherokee and it will be plain what to do... They are lots of them setting around and the old ones with the metal cowl can be opened up easily so you can see... They left the front baffles below midpoint of the cylinder
so they can get air down there..
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-03-2018, 02:56 PM
Toobuilder's Avatar
Toobuilder Toobuilder is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Mojave
Posts: 5,052
Default

Yes. Preaching to the choir.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...&highlight=CHT
__________________
WARNING! Incorrect design and/or fabrication of aircraft and/or components may result in injury or death. Information presented in this post is based on my own experience - Reader has sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for use.

Michael Robinson
______________
Harmon Rocket II -SDS EFI
1940 Taylorcraft BL-65
1984 L39C - SOLD
RV-8 - SDS CPI - SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-03-2018, 05:36 PM
erich weaver's Avatar
erich weaver erich weaver is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: santa barbara, CA
Posts: 1,835
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by N942R View Post
High oil temps are usually the airplanes with oil squirts on the cams or pistons. On those I have mounted the oil coolers on a NACA duct on the "Right side" of the cowl which will solve that problem.. Nothing wrong with the coolers
Would like to see pictures if available. Are there Naca ducts readily available that are large enough for this? Wouldn?t such a set up mean that the duct has to be disconnected every time the lower cowl is pulled?

Thanks

Erich
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-03-2018, 09:04 PM
N942R N942R is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Taylor, AZ
Posts: 38
Default Engine cooling

Oil cooler is mounted to the engine mount at an angle to the airplane ...
NACA on the cowl just butts up to it without being fastened to it...
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-04-2018, 05:31 AM
NYTOM's Avatar
NYTOM NYTOM is online now
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 1,215
Default Any photos / drawings of cylinder 1 & 2

Have know about the problem on rear #3 cylinder and addressing that now as I install my baffling for the first time but a little foggy on the front cylinders.
Just what modifications do you propose to improve airflow in that area. This thread is so timely. Want to do it right or at least close to right the first time if possible. Not understanding where to remove or achieve the 1.5 sq. in addition.
__________________
Tom Norwood
Classic "Short Tail 6A N822PM
TMX-O360 FP. KJNX
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-04-2018, 05:39 AM
F1R F1R is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: ____
Posts: 944
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NYTOM View Post
Have know about the problem on rear #3 cylinder and addressing that now as I install my baffling for the first time but a little foggy on the front cylinders.
Just what modifications do you propose to improve airflow in that area. This thread is so timely. Want to do it right or at least close to right the first time if possible. Not understanding where to remove or achieve the 1.5 sq. in addition.
Click on the link on post #6 , then go to page #2, and see post #12 by alpinelakespilot2000. That shows you most of what you are asking about.

it is only Cyl #2 on the front side that has the shallow fin issue.

Last edited by F1R : 09-04-2018 at 06:52 AM.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:06 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.