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gust lock for rudder

I don't have any pictures of my install. It however looks exactly like Greg's, I used his pictures along with his drawings to determine location. The only difference is I painted my 'lock' piece red and didn't use cotter pin deals like him.



For the aileron I literally pull the stick back and secure with the seat belt.

Your rivets should be the same and mine only interfered roughly in that same spot. If you haven't closed your tail up it should be easy to fabricate something just to place behind.
 
Another Rudder Gust Lock Idea

Resurrecting this older thread to show another cheap and easy rudder gust lock idea. Cost = $18. Once made, wedges in between front of seat frame and the 2 bolts holding master cylinder to pedals.

Materials:
  1. 2 Stock wing spar shims. These are the ones in fuse kit to use as spacers during construction. They are removed once wings are installed.
  2. One, 1 1/2' - 3' painters extension handle from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WRSJQN6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  3. One, 1"x1"x2 5/8" aluminum channel (found a scrap piece in friends hangar)
  4. One, 3/8" x 3 1/8" bolt, nut, washer

Super easy to built (see pics), very light, easy to install, and is in the cockpit (avoids removing external gust lock and getting hit by gust before you get into cockpit).

Steps:
  1. Cut one end hole of shim out of two shims.
  2. Cut aluminum channel 2 5/8" long
  3. Cut threaded end of paint stick down to 1/4 long and cut notches for epoxy to grab to
  4. Cut 3/4" hole in middle of channel
  5. Epoxy (JB Weld) stick to channel
  6. Epoxy and bolt shims to ends of channel
 

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More pics of rudder gust lock idea:

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Randy, what stops the two ears that fit onto the rudder pedals from pivoting around the bolt in the square tubing?
 
Ears are epoxied on as well as bolted (bolt alone is very tight). I can’t imagine it pivoting. However, I realize time and wind will have the final word. :)
 
I copied a gust lock from a DA40 diamond aircraft that I used to rent. Made it out of PVC pipe. Locks the peddles to the stick and with straps holds ailerons from flopping. If interested I’ll get some pictures. Marty
 
Here's what I did. Maybe 15 minutes of work and a scrap of sheet aluminum.

https://vansairforce.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=1821&stc=1&d=1598830950

Mine is verry similar to Toobuilders. The only difference is custom sewing by the boss to make a web strap ring that fits around the A500 tail light assembly. So it is a one piece strap with a circle in the middle and a hook at each end.
This is like the 3rd one. Its been hard to find robust web to withstand 80% outdoor parking. Current version is web stolen from ancient ANCRA MC tiedowns. It is far outlasting the stuff we could get from fabric outlets, even UV protected.
 
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I've adapted my tow bar that I carry anyway to also function as my gust lock. Two 1/2" pieces of CPVC pipe (not shown) engage the rudder pedal bolts and a strap secures the stick in place. Here are a few pictures. They might be a little dark.
 

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Mine is verry similar to Toobuilders. The only difference is custom sewing by the boss to make a web strap ring that fits around the A500 tail light assembly. So it is a one piece strap with a circle in the middle and a hook at each end.
This is like the 3rd one. Its been hard to find robust web to withstand 80% outdoor parking. Current version is web stolen from ancient ANCRA MC tiedowns. It is far outlasting the stuff we could get from fabric outlets, even UV protected.

Where's the "like" button! I like your idea even better!
 
I've adapted my tow bar that I carry anyway to also function as my gust lock. Two 1/2" pieces of CPVC pipe (not shown) engage the rudder pedal bolts and a strap secures the stick in place. Here are a few pictures. They might be a little dark.

I did that before and the bar that presses against the rudder pedals slipped off. The rudder was loose, but luckily not damaged when I arrived. Happened more than once. Gave up on the idea.
 
I did that before and the bar that presses against the rudder pedals slipped off. The rudder was loose, but luckily not damaged when I arrived. Happened more than once. Gave up on the idea.

Go back about 40 posts, and just use the Bogart tow bar with 2” tabs on the end. It won’t slip off, locks all 3 controls, no extra weight.
 
Here are a few updated and less dark pictures. I've included the CPVC pipe that gets inserted into the end of the tow bar and engages the bolts on the rudder pedals. Also shown is the black strap I added with a few D rings and S hooks.

The bar stows on a simple mount on the baggage bulkhead and is kept off the aluminum by a few stand offs. No rattling.
 

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Thanks for posting the pics, I think I might have to try this.
Here are a few updated and less dark pictures. I've included the CPVC pipe that gets inserted into the end of the tow bar and engages the bolts on the rudder pedals. Also shown is the black strap I added with a few D rings and S hooks.

The bar stows on a simple mount on the baggage bulkhead and is kept off the aluminum by a few stand offs. No rattling.
 
Simple, Cheap, Effective Rudder Lock

Fabricated from 1" angle and I use #10 screws for the anchor. The threads keep it from working out like a smooth pin will (dont ask me how I know). The screw does nothing to hold the rudder, just keeps the lock from falling off No shear on the screw.
Ed

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is there a suggested rudder gust lock that works well? i know anti splat has one but i have control approach pedals and probably won't work.

This thread drifted and never really answered the OP's question.

Given all of the recent discussion about gust locks, has anyone devised an effective solution to accommodate the Control Approach rudder pedals?
 
is there a suggested rudder gust lock that works well? i know anti splat has one but i have control approach pedals and probably won't work.

kenny

I have the Control Approach pedals and modified the Anti-Splat control lock. I simply bolted a couple pieces of Delrin plastic to the front of each fork with a cutout for the rudder pedal. It fits perfectly. I highly recommend their Ultimate Gust lock.
 
I am going to build something similar to these. That with a lock on the bottom should protect from most storms - unless you are just in the wrong place at the wrong time.
 

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still

I am going to build something similar to these. That with a lock on the bottom should protect from most storms - unless you are just in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Still won't protect from a lot of the torsional damage seen at Osh2022...
 
I think if you had the bent wire or bolt at the bottom and this part way up it would help most wind storms. You would have to secure the top also to be sure and then if it damaged the rudder most likely other parts are damaged too.
 
I am going to build something similar to these. That with a lock on the bottom should protect from most storms - unless you are just in the wrong place at the wrong time.

It looks worth investigating. Just wondering if you used something like this then would a high wind also damage the vertical stabilizer as the unit twists together?

Chris
 
I am going to build something similar to these. That with a lock on the bottom should protect from most storms - unless you are just in the wrong place at the wrong time.

I’ve made these out of one inch pvc, then used pool noodles or pipe insulation. I used para cord at the ends, one end ties permanently, the other I made a loop and a notch in the pvc so it snaps into the groove. It has about the right amount of give to prevent damage.
 
Gust lock

I am going to build something similar to these. That with a lock on the bottom should protect from most storms - unless you are just in the wrong place at the wrong time.

I wonder if that would work with a tent pole type arrangement. It would fold up into a small light package.
 
It looks worth investigating. Just wondering if you used something like this then would a high wind also damage the vertical stabilizer as the unit twists together?

Chris

I've used that design for 20 years on the RV-6. No problems so far and the -6 has seen some pretty stout winds in 20ish years at Oshkosh. Dunno if it would have survived what blew through this year or not. The nice thing is the pool noodles give a nice cushioned clamp, so you don't have the point loads inherent in some of the external locks.

Another option I have considered is some sort of external lock that hooks on to the elevator weldments, which look to be a neat place to attach something.
 
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This is what I have been using for 10 years without fail. The pvc length is set for an over-center at the pivot point holding the rudder pedals tightly. A #8 screw and cap nut holds the spar side from slipping.
 

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Gust protection

I wonder if that would work with a tent pole type arrangement. It would fold up into a small light package.

That's more or less how I made mine for my Pietenpol. I modified hiking poles and used foam pipe insulation. It's quite light. I don't know how well it would work on an RV.

Cheers, Ken
 

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That's more or less how I made mine for my Pietenpol. I modified hiking poles and used foam pipe insulation. It's quite light. I don't know how well it would work on an RV.

Cheers, Ken

Nice! Where did you source the poles?
 
This is what I have been using for 10 years without fail. The pvc length is set for an over-center at the pivot point holding the rudder pedals tightly. A #8 screw and cap nut holds the spar side from slipping.

Be carefull with that. I made one just like that for the 6 and it works great, it even held in the EF1 tornado we had this spring. Figured it was a good design and stood the test of time and made another for the 10 and it let loose one night in Iowa with 35 knot winds. Mine has a 1/2" pin holding it to the spar also. The forces are much stronger in the 10 and the PVC bent just enough to let go. Luckilly no damage to the plane. Re made a similar design with steel tube and that will hold anything. The PVC is fine for moderate winds in the 10, but don't trust it in the nasty stuff.

Larry
 
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Can you explain how the Antisplat holds the elevator at the neutral position. It seems it tries to push the control stick as far back as possible and wedges the rudder pedals against that full elevator up position. Or is there something else that isn't shown that keeps the stick from going all elevator up?
 
It's not readily apparent but the answer to your question is in the geometry of the attach fixture between the control lock and the stick - it's rigid. The angle between the locking brace arm and the joystick is fixed by the attachment hardware and keeps the stick from going full back when the lock is deployed.
 
It's not readily apparent but the answer to your question is in the geometry of the attach fixture between the control lock and the stick - it's rigid. The angle between the locking brace arm and the joystick is fixed by the attachment hardware and keeps the stick from going full back when the lock is deployed.

Makes sense, thanks. Means though that if users have bent their stick so it wouldn't hit the 310 panel, they are not getting their elevator neutral?
 
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Makes sense, thanks. Means though that if users have bent their stick so it wouldn't hit the 310 panel, they are not getting their elevator neutral?

Perhaps. I didn’t bend mine but did change the sticks geometry a bit to clear the panel. I also modified the fork of the Anti Splat gust lock in order to work with my Approach Control pedals. As a result, yes, my elevator locks in a slightly down position but I really don’t think it’s that big of a deal. It still locks very tightly and that’s the most important thing for me.
 

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Perhaps. I didn’t bend mine but did change the sticks geometry a bit to clear the panel. I also modified the fork of the Anti Splat gust lock in order to work with my Approach Control pedals. As a result, yes, my elevator locks in a slightly down position but I really don’t think it’s that big of a deal. It still locks very tightly and that’s the most important thing for me.

Nice modification. I am going to do something similar, since one side of my Ultimate Gust Lock slipped off during the storm at Oshkosh.
 
Perhaps. I didn’t bend mine but did change the sticks geometry a bit to clear the panel. I also modified the fork of the Anti Splat gust lock in order to work with my Approach Control pedals. As a result, yes, my elevator locks in a slightly down position but I really don’t think it’s that big of a deal. It still locks very tightly and that’s the most important thing for me.

That looks like a very good mod, thanks for sharing it! This would also avoid the metal to metal contact on the rudder pedal structure.
 
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