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Reusable oil filter

WingnutWick

Well Known Member
With the inability to get CH 48108-1 oil filters anywhere I remember seeing something about re-usable oil filters. I searched the forms but can't find it. Looking to see what experience people have with them, what the process is for cleaning and inspecting, and overall how good they are. Seems like something that would pay for itself rather quickly.

Thanks!
 
Challenger oil filter, I have been using these for a while now.
The cleaning and inspecting them is a piece of cake, much easier than the standard filter. You just pull the filter element out and inspect. I usually put it in a glass jar with some fuel in it and shake it. Then inspect the content of the fuel and the filter is already clean.

https://www.challengeraviation.com/newproducts.html
 
I picked up the K&P Engineering filter, it's the less expensive non-aviation version of the Challenger filter. Just installed in 2 weeks ago, so I have another 2 months before I'm due to an oil change and can comment on the cleaning.

All the review I've read and people I've talked to in person have nothing but great things to say about these filters. Easy of cleaning is a HUGE plus for me, I'd be glad to never have to cut open another filter again. The K&P version can be had for under $200 shipped, the return on the investment is quick with our throw away filters hitting $40 each and the fact they can't be found right now.
 
With the inability to get CH 48108-1 oil filters anywhere I remember seeing something about re-usable oil filters. I searched the forms but can't find it. Looking to see what experience people have with them, what the process is for cleaning and inspecting, and overall how good they are. Seems like something that would pay for itself rather quickly.

Thanks!

Here is the thread I think you where looking for:

https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=205885&highlight=s-15

I'm in the same boat. Looking at first engine start in a few months and only have two filters sitting on the shelf.
 
I picked up the K&P Engineering filter, it's the less expensive non-aviation version of the Challenger filter. Just installed in 2 weeks ago, so I have another 2 months before I'm due to an oil change and can comment on the cleaning.

All the review I've read and people I've talked to in person have nothing but great things to say about these filters. Easy of cleaning is a HUGE plus for me, I'd be glad to never have to cut open another filter again. The K&P version can be had for under $200 shipped, the return on the investment is quick with our throw away filters hitting $40 each and the fact they can't be found right now.

Do you have the part # that replaces 108-1s?
 
S15 installation/removal question

For those of you using the S15 version of the filter, I know you have to use the special tool that comes with the filter.

How does the installation and removal compare with a standard Champion/Tempest filter - specifically, the space between the firewall and filter?

I thinking about pro's and con's of the Challenger version vs the S15 model.

Thanks
 
Just ordered one for each Lycoming….

I’ve been impressed that these are used on teh certified helicopters I’ve been flying, and talked with the school mechanic about how he likes them - all positive!

I’ve thought about these for awhile, and this thread finally got me off top-dead-center, especially when I saw the lower price on teh ECS Tuning site - so I just ordered one for each of our Lycs (and clones….) along with two of the nipples I need for two of them. Back ordered, of course, but they should be here when we get back from OSH, and the two airplanes we’re taking to Wisconsin will both need oil changes by then….so it should work out!
 
Good luck with the stainless screen filter. Here is a post by a BMW user that collapsed the filter even though a bypass is built into that specific engine system.

Our Lyc oil inlet suction screens may block all the carbon particles, so just be aware of this possibility.

This engine is a turbocharged engine but also uses full synthetic oil.
Steel Screen Filter.jpg
 
Bill has a point here. The picture ain’t RV, but the danger is the same. I just performed a 50h inspection oil change on my steed, and though luckily no metal was found, quite some carbon present. Engine has 1300hrs since rebuild.

The total screening surface is certainly less than on the paper filter, and my humble advice for those using reusable filters is to open and clean them thoroughly at EACH oil change…
 
For those of you using the S15 version of the filter, I know you have to use the special tool that comes with the filter.

How does the installation and removal compare with a standard Champion/Tempest filter - specifically, the space between the firewall and filter?

I thinking about pro's and con's of the Challenger version vs the S15 model.

Thanks

Here's a side by side image of filters. The K&N is smaller and allows more room.

I don't think the tool (top in 1st picture) is anything special. You could use a strap wrench too.

(Images grabbed are from www.rv8.ch Specifically at http://www.rv8.ch/kp-engineering-stainless-steel-cleanable-oil-filter/)

IMG_5430-1024x768.jpeg


IMG_5433-1024x1024.jpeg


IMG_5431-1024x1024.jpeg
 
+1

I converted to the Challenger a few years ago. Change my oil & clean the filter at 30-40 hours. Posted my recommendation way back. My filter has NEVER looked like the BMW pix above. I’ve only seen a few specs of carbon.
Bought an extra seal when I purchased the filter. Have yet to use it, after 15+ oil changes.
Mine has easily paid for itself plus. Made total sense to me back when filters were obtainable and cost $18.
 
so I just ordered one for each of our Lycs (and clones….) along with two of the nipples I need for two of them.

Not to appear naïve but what "nipples" are you referring to? Photo?

These filters look really nicely made. And the finning of the housing can't hurt for oil cooling! Nice design.....I might just have to order one as well...!
 
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Not to appear naïve but what "nipples" are you referring to? Photo?

These filters look really nicely made. And the finning of the housing can't hurt for oil cooling! Nice design.....I might just have to order one as well...!

It is the the 3/4×16 X 3/4×16 threaded fitting. Some oil housing may not have the thread mount so you need to add it.

Threaded-Fitting-for-websites-600x576.jpg
 
For those of you using the S15 version of the filter, I know you have to use the special tool that comes with the filter.

How does the installation and removal compare with a standard Champion/Tempest filter - specifically, the space between the firewall and filter?

I thinking about pro's and con's of the Challenger version vs the S15 model.

Thanks

compared to a CH48110-1, it is 1 1/4" shorter measuring from top of nut. The diameter is 1" narrower.

It is the same size as a Harley filter...
 
Not to appear naïve but what "nipples" are you referring to? Photo?

These filters look really nicely made. And the finning of the housing can't hurt for oil cooling! Nice design.....I might just have to order one as well...!

My first assignment arriving on this earth was to find a nipple!!...... I had no idea what I was looking for.....:D
 
Just curious for those using this filter. Describe the cleaning process and what solvent are you using? Then where are you disposing of the waste solvent? Can it be taken to a normal oil recycling facility?

Thanks
Keith
 
Just curious for those using this filter. Describe the cleaning process and what solvent are you using? Then where are you disposing of the waste solvent? Can it be taken to a normal oil recycling facility?

Thanks
Keith

I've cleaned my filter twice - once I used about half a can of brake cleaner with the filter in a big plastic food takeaway bowl. Second time, a bit of Jet-A (diesel) in the same bowl. Both times it came out very clean. You could followup with some compressed air, but I didn't.

I'm thinking about trying an ultrasonic cleaner, and had meant to ask here if anyone has any experience with them. Was also thinking about the dishwasher, of course after first cleaned with a solvent.

Disposal of the solvent used: we have waste oil disposal points sprinkled all over the country, and they are fine with a bit of solvent like this. I assume an oil recycling center would be similar.

I have two filter elements so when I'm changing the oil I don't have to stop to clean the filter at that moment, I can do it at my convenience. So far, I have done it while the oil is draining.
 
Just curious for those using this filter. Describe the cleaning process and what solvent are you using? Then where are you disposing of the waste solvent? Can it be taken to a normal oil recycling facility?

Thanks
Keith

I plan to use Dawn dish soap and hot water in a jar with a spacer in the bottom to hold up the filter. Agitate, let set, and pour through a coffee filter and repeat. Dry with a hair dryer and dump the soapy water.
 
.........what solvent are you using? Then where are you disposing of the waste solvent? Can it be taken to a normal oil recycling facility?

Can't speak for our northern brothers; however, it's worth checking for a similar policy/arrangement. Check your local auto parts store. In most of the states, if a business sells oil/oil change products they are required to accept oil for recycle. Let the solvents flash and recycle accordingly.

Your governments and citizens seem more environmentally conscience than most so I'd expect policies and access to be at least as good as down here.
 
Residual Oil in Filter At Oil Change

Can users please tell me how you deal with the residual oil inside the housing at oil change?

Thank you - HFS
 
For those of you using the S15 version of the filter, I know you have to use the special tool that comes with the filter.

How does the installation and removal compare with a standard Champion/Tempest filter - specifically, the space between the firewall and filter?

I thinking about pro's and con's of the Challenger version vs the S15 model.

Thanks

Much easier, the filter plus tool is still not as deep as the Champ, Temp filters. It's a much easier process for me. I always had a hard time with the Champ and Temp due to the clearance to my firewall. Now with the K&P, all is much more simple.
 
Can users please tell me how you deal with the residual oil inside the housing at oil change?

Thank you - HFS

Clean it up/out with mineral spirits, paint thinner, jet A, kerosene...you get the idea.

Dispose of the solvent from above into the waste oil from your oil change...
 
BJ much oil in the filter after oil drained? Much of a mess when removed ?

No messier than a 48110-1...I'd say it contains about 4-6oz, be prepared to dump the contents into a plastic trash bag, or whatever you use to catch the dribbles from your normal oil change.

It weighs less, dimensionally smaller, and it easier to maneuver than the 48110-1; remove it, dump it out, remove the element, clean off the magnet, soak/wash/slosh the filter element in your favorite solvent (Not Toluene, MEK, or Acetone...just good old kerosene, JetA, paint thinner) -- look for chunks. Let it drip dry, air dry, put a new o-ring on (if it looks like you need one), reassemble...go fly...
 
No messier than a 48110-1...I'd say it contains about 4-6oz, be prepared to dump the contents into a plastic trash bag, or whatever you use to catch the dribbles from your normal oil change.

It weighs less, dimensionally smaller, and it easier to maneuver than the 48110-1; remove it, dump it out, remove the element, clean off the magnet, soak/wash/slosh the filter element in your favorite solvent (Not Toluene, MEK, or Acetone...just good old kerosene, JetA, paint thinner) -- look for chunks. Let it drip dry, air dry, put a new o-ring on (if it looks like you need one), reassemble...go fly...

What goes around, comes around …. This is pretty much the exact procedure every mechanic used when all engines had oil screens instead of spin-on, disposable filters back in “the day”….and yes, I am dating myself when I say that all my early airplanes had screens instead of filters.

It’s not rocket science…. ;)

Paul
 
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Every shop should have a 2 gallon bucket 1/2 full of kitty litter to clean up oil and fuel spills. You can let the oil left in the housing drain into the bucketand then wipe out with a paper towel.

Or you could just leave it alone... it's no different than the entire surface of the sump.

Dish soap and hot water works well. Try this experiment....

Take a jar and pour in a teaspoon of engine oil. Now, a teaspoon of dish soap. Fill 1/2 way with hot tap water. gently agitate for 30 seconds. Lay out a few layers of newspaper and dump out the liquid on the newspaper. TRY to find the oil. Take a paper towel and wipe out the jar. TRY to find the oil.
 
Yeah, I had a Frantz oil filter on my '67 Camera for a while. Changing this filter makes dealing with pro-seal seem like a clean job. There is NOTHING messier than a roll of toilet paper full of dirty engine oil!
 
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Yeah, I have a Frantz oil filter on my '67 Camera for a while. Changing this filter makes dealing with pro-seal seem like a clean job. There is NOTHING messier than a roll of toilet paper full of dirty engine oil!

And now you know why I removed it after only 5 oil changes.
 
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