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running compressed air between the house and the garage

Shockwave

Well Known Member
Hello friends. I'm wanting to (safely and within code) run an air compressor line from my basement workshop out to the garage so I can have air as I begin working on the wings. The garage is a less than ideal place for my compressor, as it's 220v and I have a single 110v outlet that is also on the circuit with the lights and garage door opener. The wings are too big to build in the basement short of demolishing some portion of the house to get them out, which I'm trying to avoid doing.

Worse case I could drag out a long hose and run it up the steps leaving the door open, but is there a more elegant solution I can put in?
 
Is your garage connected to the house?

Mine is and I simply ran some 600 PSI PVC up there and it has worked great.

Now, that code thing is another matter.
 
I'd call an electrician about getting another circuit (or two) in your garage. It might be easier to just get the power where you need it now and then you'll be all ready for the upgraded lights, tools, space heater and AC unit you'll eventually want! :D
 
The garage is attached, and the compressor is on the same wall as the garage so I could in theory come out right underneath the door.

I'm still considering a subpanel in the garage so I could get some decent power out there, but I should really only need to match drill and rivet out in the garage and I could do the rest downstairs.
 
Don't use PVC

Many people will tell you, "I use PVC for air lines, and have never had a problem." I can tell you from seeing it with my own eyes, and installing air lines as a professional plumber, do not use PVC. It will break at some point, and it will become shrapnel. The guys saying it will be fine have not yet had a problem, but they will eventually. I just hope they don't get hurt learning that lesson.

The most elegant solution is copper pipe and yes, it is more expensive. If you are not comfortable sweating copper, the next viable solution is pex. Go to you local DIY store, and you can pick up a roll of pipe, some fittings, and crimp rings to terminate them, you will also need to buy a crimper, but they are only about $30. While you are at it, you will likely find it very easy, and affordable, so you might as well put in a couple of drops in the garage as well as the basement. They will come in mighty handy.

As far as codes, I am not aware of any in the plumbing or gas code, It should not be a fire code issue as long as you seal the opening around the pipe with fire caulk. You may check with your local authorities, for a local code, but I would guess they would have none.

Advice worth exactly what you paid for it! :)
 
I have my compressor outside my garage in the back, so I don`t have to deal with the noise. I just drilled a hole in the wall, bought a nice thick airhose, and just stuck it thru the hole and ran it neatly along the wall. That goes to a air-filter, and then to a 3 way splitter.
It`ll take you 3 minutes to install, and its nice and flexible. You are using a hose at the end anyway, why not use a hose all the way, they are cheap.
 
PEX

I have a large shop and need air in multiple places. I said "PVC" once and got a first hand story that convinced me I wanted something else. Black iron was the traditional choice but after seeing PEX used for plumbing and shop air, I went with PEX. It was so easy to run, add drops, and customize. I ended up having air to more locations than I would, had I used solid pipe.

There are even starter kits for PEX air setups now.

EDIT: before my PEX setup, I did what Christian suggested. It worked well for over 2 years. I did install a hose real on the end but the whilevsystem was hose and I used it for everything. If you want "simple" and to use stuff you can get at a local big box store, consider this option.
 
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My own shop air is plumbed with iron pipe, but PEX looks interesting. Given the prices for 100 and 300 foot spools it would be nuts to not run the main line around the ceiling perimeter to allow cooling and condensation. You'll need a few drops to remove the liquid water. Dry air is always a plus.
 
I plumbed my shop air a couple of years ago with PEX, no leaks anywhere. All of it is in the ceiling with drops at various locations in the shop with reels attached to the ceiling. 100' rolls of 1/2" are $30 at Lowes.
 
condensation

As Dan suggested, a few drops to trap liquid water will be needed at various times of the year. Some days, the section of line between the house and garage if a lower temperature will generate more water than you expect. A rivet gun does not use much air and won't be a problem. An air drill or grinder...well, you'll see.
 
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I too am a big fan of the subpanel in the garage. The separate panel means you only run four wires out there once, then you can do anything you want in the future. I have done this in two houses now and it has been well worth it for adding later. Also if you ever blow a breaker or have to run away from your drill press that is spinning a rib around on the fly cutter, the breaker is right there... no that has never happened to me, why do you ask?
 
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A good practice is to slope the air lines back towards the compressor receiver tank to catch any condensation, just remember to drain it occasionally. Also, plumb any drops vertically off the top of the main line and then drop down to help keep any condensation in the main line and not making it easy to get into your air tool. These are standard details for industrial compressed air systems, but make sense on any scale.
 
rapidair PIREP

I ran the rapidair duratec tubing last summer in my basement with the compressor and half my workshop, and out to my garage for the other half of the workshop.

The outside run is under a deck between the two structures, and I wrapped the tubing in pipe insulation from home depot for UV protection, which they recommended.

Install was very easy and, while it's only been one seasonal cycle, no problems so far. I would highly recommend it if you've not made up your mind yet. And if Cleaveland is now selling it, all the better.
 
Note that there is more than one type of tubing, but both are designed for compressed air:

RapidAir: http://www.rapidairproducts.com/rapidair.asp

And Duratec: http://www.rapidairproducts.com/duratec.asp

The hose in the RapidAir system is Nylon while the (commercial) Duratec is aluminum sandwiched between HDPE. They also make the AirNet line, which is all aluminum and can be used with the RapidAir products for higher air volume main runs.

Nothing against the RapidAir/Nylon -- it is what I plan to use, and look like a great system. Also figured the manufacture's (Engineered Specialties) direct product links may be helpful. Also of note from their site (as I've seen these at HF):

Please be aware that Harbor Freight has copied the Rapidair system. This is not our product in their stores. We have had numerous phone calls about the poor quality of this system. You get what you pay for. Buying the original RAPIDAIR brand will provide the highest quality and longest lasting product.
 
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I just talked to Engineering Specialties and they say that it is not recommended to direct bury the nylon tubing. They recommend the Duratec product which is certified for direct bury. Duratec is actually how we got into the product line as they used it for a high volume paint shop line at our local builders assistance center. Works great and is easy and clean to install. It uses more expensive fittings, but you can use Duratec for the bury section with a NPT end on each side and attach to rapid air on either end. I didn't ask E.S. about it, but I would guess that you could bury a cheap 1.5" electrical conduit that is rated for direct bury and run the nylon rapid air line through the middle to avoid the "direct" contact with the soil.

To answer the PEX question, I have used PEX for water plumbing and it is much softer than the skin on the rapid air tubing, I don't know the PEX pressure rating, but I would guess that the fittings would work as would any 1/2" OD tube including copper. We do sell the fittings and air outlets separate. I have used the crimp type and compression type PEX fittings but I have not used it with the reusable push in type fittings. We attempted several years ago to sell the push on fittings for 1/2" copper, but users complained that the sticks of copper were hard to find in their area, so the product was dropped. Rapid air solved this by kitting their tube with fittings and outlets. I think that it will be a hit.
 
Just heard back from Stacy at Rapid Air about PEX:

I checked with engineering here at RapidAir Products, and confirmed that PEX tubing does not have the multi-layer strength factor and also will react with some compressor oils over time, causing compromises in the system, it?s an entirely different material that is not recommended for Compressed air delivery for these reasons. Best to spend slightly more and get something that is directly engineered for Compressed air delivery, especially since compressed air can be dangerous if not used properly?
 
Air

Once you finish your project and move it to the hangar you will want a compressor at the hangar and the house. Just buy the second compressor early.

Pat
 
Been using 1/2 copper line for shop air for nearly 30 years. Very reliable. I've moved my shop several times in that time and taken the tubing with me and strung it up again.
 
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