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Is it too much to ask?

Mhesser

Member
Trim those cable ties please!!
I’m a flyer not a builder but back in the old days this would have been a write up when doing A/C maintenance in the USAF. Bloody hands, arms and wrists can be averted with a few seconds trimming cable ties properly.
Think about next time you may need to go in there or the next owner of your beautiful build.

Am I asking too much?
 

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I thought the recommendation was to leave 3 teeth showing on the cuts. I didn't think you were supposed to cut them flush.
 
Old memories

I’m remembering back to my days in missile and a/c maintenance in the USAF 30 years ago we trimmed them all flush. We even used a razor blade if able so the next guy didn’t end up with a bloody arm.
Curious to hear the consensus on this today…
 
Flush side cutter

I use a flush side cutter tool and try to cut them off as square as possible. This tool does not seem to leave as sharp an edge as a regular side cutter, or snips etc.

As we get older we can get cut and bleed more easily too! :(
 
Also try to not have zip ties to engine mounts or metal tubing at all if you can help it without protecting the metal tubing! I like it put a wrap of self vulcanizing silicone tape or even electrical tape on the tubing first.. I’ve seen the zip ties wear away the powder coat and even start to wear the engine mount!
 
I hate those pointy sharp ends. I cut mine with side cutters that leave a little still sticking out. I touch those ends with a hot flat soldering tip to melt them down and flush with the locking collar.
 
Also try to not have zip ties to engine mounts or metal tubing at all if you can help it without protecting the metal tubing! I like it put a wrap of self vulcanizing silicone tape or even electrical tape on the tubing first.. I’ve seen the zip ties wear away the powder coat and even start to wear the engine mount!

It took 6 posts!!!:D:D:D First thing I noticed. I thought this thread was going to be about Zip Ties on steel tubes.

I have to agree with the OP, cut those zip tie ends flush!
 
Cobra Low Profile Zip Tie

I am surprised that no one (yet) as mentioned the low profile product by www.cableties.com to solve this problem.

They are a bit more tedious to install; but, when done properly they effectively remove the possibility of a "blood draw". I have some on the pushrod tubes on my Rocket - been there for almost 20 years w/no issues.

HFS
 

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Tool

The best tool to trim zip ties, that I have found, is a Sprue cutter. It cuts them flush and clean every time...
 
I hate those pointy sharp ends. I cut mine with side cutters that leave a little still sticking out. I touch those ends with a hot flat soldering tip to melt them down and flush with the locking collar.

I do the same in high hand traffic areas.
 
I thought the recommendation was to leave 3 teeth showing on the cuts. I didn't think you were supposed to cut them flush.
That’s a new one, never heard of that before… are you thinking of three threads showing on a nut/bolt?
 
three threads

My first time hearing of the three teeth rule too.
During my navy days I worked on huge trim and drain valves from nuclear subs. IIRC the specs were no less than 1 full thread and no more than three when the nuts were tight.
As I type this, there is healing scratches on my arm from zip ties in the engine compartment!
 
Been an A&P for almost 50 years and never heard of a "3-teeth rule".

Is this in AC 43.13 somewhere?
 
Tie wrap guns

You know, the electronics packaging industry figured out how to solve this a long time ago. Use a tie wrap gun. You don't need the multiple hundreds of dollars one.....the low end ones will do fine. It tensions the cable tie wrap and cuts the tail flush, all in one operation.

I think the "3 teeth showing" mentioned above is either an OWT, or someone is confused about the "2-3 thread showing past the nut" thing on screws and bolts.

Oh, and an interesting aside about exposed tie wrap tails. Used to work for a large computer maker (hint: three letter acronym). Tie wrap tails like the ones posted by the OP were considered a product safety issue and would have resulted in immediately shutting down the manufacturing line in order to screen for and rework all the "bad" parts. Then came the extra "attention" from management, directed at manufacturing, manufacturing engineering (me), and anyone else involved. Far easier to do it the right way, and avoid all the extra "attention". Not to mention all the bleeding on the machine.

Now, if I could just figure out how to not stab myself when using safety wire. :) (Yes, I do know about the safety cable system, https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/nosetool.php?clickkey=4386, just don't do enough safety wiring to justify the price.)
 
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Been an A&P for almost 50 years and never heard of a "3-teeth rule".

Is this in AC 43.13 somewhere?

More hearsay. I've had multiple auto and airplane mechanics tell me I was wrong for cutting them flush. Not sure where it came from or why. Just a thought, the tail on these might be deliberate from someone that doesn't know better.
 
zip ties

"I’ve seen the zip ties wear away the powder coat and even start to wear the engine mount!"

If that ever happens, you need to something about vibrations.
 
Zip Tie Gun....

Works perfectly and adjustable pressure for different sized ties.

I thought everyone used them :D
 
x4 for a zip tie gun! As much as we spend on these airplanes, a good zip tie gun is a tiny investment. And I mean get a good one, like a Panduit.

I'm also convinced that installing zip ties too loosely is the root cause of chafing of metal tubing. I've used zip ties firewall-forward since Day 1 back in 2007 on my -6 and I have found zero chafing on any zip tie I've ever installed. If the ties are tight enough to not be able to move them, they won't chafe.

A zip tie gun does a good job of ensuring proper tension is applied to the zip tie, as well as to cut off the tail with zero sharp edges.
 
I use these ones on my engine mount tubes, and a few other places firewall forward:

https://griplockties.com/

I camped next to the inventer at Oshkosh a few years ago, and he gave me a few to try. I was sold. They are relatively expensive, but I don’t use that many of them. I still use standard ones everywhere else - and I cut the tail off flush.
 
I'm surprised that nobody has noticed that the serated teeth are on the inside of the tie. Aviation items have the serated teeth on the outside to leave a nice smooth surface against whatever it is you are securing.
 
I've never used zip ties on any of my builds. Wax lacing cord all the way!
Always have the correct size on hand and no danger of bloody snags or pokes. Plus you can use them on engine mount tube with no fear of wear or cutting.
Also looks alot nicer than zip ties.....
 
I'm surprised that nobody has noticed that the serated teeth are on the inside of the tie. Aviation items have the serated teeth on the outside to leave a nice smooth surface against whatever it is you are securing.

I don't see how that would be possible with standard zip ties.
 
I'm not sure I understand your response?

There are multiple types of zip ties / tywraps / whatever wording you would like to use. Have a look at https://www.hellermanntyton.co.uk/competences/cable-ties-and-fixings to see what I mean. There are inside and outside serated versions and the inside ones are more susceptible to abrading whatever they are attached to.

OK, gotcha. I didn't realize you were to referring to using a different zip tie than what was in the photo.
 
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