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Cerakote for interior?

I'd like to get experiences using Cerakote on the interior. I'm referencing the "C-series" here, which is the air dry version. No oven needed.

I know one builder who swears by using Cerakote instead of powdercoat for those parts made out of metal that rust if you don't do something with them. For example, the weldments on the firewall.

I know another builder who is priming every surface on the inside of the fuse, wings, and emp and it looks pretty nice! A bit overkill maybe, but definitely exudes quality.

It got me to thinking about getting the pro-Cerakote kit with the Iwata gun, which I'll probably do anyway to at least prime the parts that NEED to be primed.

But it applies so thinly and is very strong, so I'm thinking about using it to prime everything. Well, not everything. Those things that eventually require a coat or two of Imron wouldn't get Cerakoted. I'm pretty sure you can't paint anything over Cerakote.

A potential downside is long-term maintenance. Not so much for those areas that will be sealed, but more for the interior parts that get worn. I'm not sure you can just scuff it up and apply a new layer. I'm currently under the impression that you have to media blast everything off, soak it in acetone to get rid of any oils, then re-apply.

Any thoughts?
 
I would not suggest cerakote

I spray both Cerakote and KG gunkote on firearm builds. I have wondered how they would turn out on some parts because both are very corrosion resistant and tough. I like KG a little better because I have found it easier to spray. The thing that would prevent me from using Cerakote for any large areas is the price. Currently the list price from Cerakote is $409 for a gallon. The iwata guns are the way to go, they are very good. In using the two part Cerakote you can not spray a layer over the previous layer you normally have to strip it to bare metal, I am not sure about the c series though.
 
Good wear resistance

I have high wear areas coated by my gunsmith. Examples are instrument panel, throttle quadrant aluminum, floor panels you step on , etc.

Fantastic results and he uses the oven bake process. Did this on a -3 and -4 using Platinum color to match grey interior paint.
 
Couple of questions

@JTWJR. I've had FAs treated with Cerakote, Have had some problems with adhesion on sharp corners but nothing that couldn't be fixed. It is as tough as advertised.

Can it be applied to AL without a primer or bond coat?

Is it flexible enough aircraft application; floor panels being the most abused part I can think of?

Thx
 
As to the price, which at first blush seems really expensive.

If you look at it on a coverage basis, it's cheaper than Akzo and more expensive than Ekoprime.

Akzo gives 357 sq ft/gallon at $366/gallon and Cerakote gives 677 sq ft/gallon at $409/gallon. For a 25sq ft panel, that's $25.63 for Akzo and $15.10 for Cerakote. Ekoprime would be $6.81 following that chain of logic.

Of course, the above doesn't take in to account prep, cleaning, or waste.

Cerakote doesn't require anything beyond the metal prep. It doesn't require a wash-coat or etch compound beyond media-blast or scotch-brite.
 
If I’m reading this correctly; no etch, no conversion coat, and no primer, this would actually a huge cost/time savings. Not exposing yourself and the environment to the heavy metals in Alodine is a very understated benefit.

The baked-on product is flat impressive. It withstands the repeated violence of FA cycling, exposure to combustion byproducts and subsequent solvents. If the room temperature curing product is anywhere close to this durability, it will be impressive.

I can’t paint. Keep trying and maybe one day I’ll be OK at it. I’ll order some and give it a try. Any hints anyone can pass along?
 
@JTWJR. I've had FAs treated with Cerakote, Have had some problems with adhesion on sharp corners but nothing that couldn't be fixed. It is as tough as advertised.

Can it be applied to AL without a primer or bond coat?

Is it flexible enough aircraft application; floor panels being the most abused part I can think of?

Thx

Sorry for the late reply. Cerekote is as tough as nails and should never be a problem on sharp corners. It sounds like the FA's you have had coated might not have been done correctly. Cerekote is not a product to be applied by amateurs. It can be applied without primer in fact it needs to be applied on bare metal.
 
All things I thought I knew. I'll state there is some art to getting a proper profile on internal/external sharp angles. I was worried that being too aggressive would be visible on an outside angle. Took me a second try.

I'm going to try the C series on some floor panels and then flex the f' out of them. Those results will probably be my go/no-go decision point, assuming I can get a good finish. I'll state again, I can't paint but can get by with some small stuff.

As mentioned, the oven cured product is pretty amazing to be able to take the violent abuse of a cycling FA and it looks flat awesome. I'd post a pic but not sure the mods would allow.

Edit = pix of Cerakote application added if mods allow. This was a rusty POS found in a friend’s hangar after he passed. Redone with Cerakote (amoung others things) and now in possession of my Godson/one of his grandsons.
 

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I used Cerakote C series for my Instrument panel on my RV12.

Hardest part was getting it degreased and sandblasted to the appropriate grit. And it was ultimately easier than sanding scuffing priming and then painting and furthermore didn’t require ultra specific temp and humidity requirements. Really happy with it so far.

The coating has held up through a Florida summer and multiple screwdriver hits, scapes, and dissembling.

My next build i intend to do the entire interior cabin with Cerakote C series and any other areas that might make sense.
 
Cerekote is not a product to be applied by amateurs.

That statement comes across as kind of a warning that if you aren't a professional Cerekote applications expert, you shouldn't try to do it.

Is that what you meant?

Seems like Cerekote is very straightforward in telling you how to degrease (heat if necessary), sandblast (or scuff appropriately), clean/degrease again, don't allow any skin contact whatsoever before you paint, etc. If you are competent enough to figure out how to build an airplane, you should be competent enough to read the directions and get an appropriate outcome, right? And if you don't, you probably ignored the directions.

I mean, unless there's something you know as a professional that isn't common knowledge to those of us who only have the Cerekote website and various experts' advice on YouTube and various online forums. If so, can you share?
 
That statement comes across as kind of a warning that if you aren't a professional Cerekote applications expert, you shouldn't try to do it.

Is that what you meant?

Seems like Cerekote is very straightforward in telling you how to degrease (heat if necessary), sandblast (or scuff appropriately), clean/degrease again, don't allow any skin contact whatsoever before you paint, etc. If you are competent enough to figure out how to build an airplane, you should be competent enough to read the directions and get an appropriate outcome, right? And if you don't, you probably ignored the directions.

I mean, unless there's something you know as a professional that isn't common knowledge to those of us who only have the Cerekote website and various experts' advice on YouTube and various online forums. If so, can you share?

Yeah it took awhile to understand the process, but I didn’t find it difficult to do. I found it easier that the 2 part paint process. Now if my instrument panel doesn’t last for 20 years, then i wont be upset. Others might be, and thats where i can see the value of a pro job.
 
I

It got me to thinking about getting the pro-Cerakote kit with the Iwata gun, which I'll probably do anyway to at least prime the parts that NEED to be primed.

But it applies so thinly and is very strong, so I'm thinking about using it to prime everything.
Any thoughts?

There is no mil spec for Cerakote, and no certificated plane manufacturer that I know of, they may be out there, that uses it. You want quick and easy, get everything ready, dimpled, deburred, countersunk, and fabricated, then ship it to shop that applies Alodine Class 1A. There are more shops out there than I was aware of, I was surprised that here in Albuquerque, not an especially large or commercially active city, there are several.

The mil spec for Cl 1A states that, "Class 1A: This class of chromate coating tends to be much thicker than other classes, as well as darker, which provides a high grade of corrosion protection for unpainted items. It also improves adhesion of paint finish systems on aluminum and aluminum alloys."

Now that's what I am looking for.
 
There is no mil spec for Cerakote, and no certificated plane manufacturer that I know of, they may be out there, that uses it.

I'm not building a certified plane. I'd put money on a primary reason they don't use it (or anything non-standard) is they would likely have to get the FAA involved and get permission to change their manufacturing process after a lengthy test period.

As far as mil spec....

https://images.nicindustries.com/ce...spec-od-dt20220422191716553322.pdf?1650655038
 
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