Scott's RV14A: N52XL

[rockitdoc]

I think I have decided on the aluminum vs black. But, will bead blast the aluminum to satin and clear powdercoat it.

[rockitdoc]

I had to adjust my sticks/grips (Tostens) so at full dive, they don't hit the panel. The solution was to cut 3-1/2" off the top of each stick (3-1/4" is recommended by Tosten) and use a modified bushing that Tosten makes that cants the grip in relation to the stick about 10 degrees aft.



The bushing had to be shortened about 1/2" and rounded at the bottom so as not to interfere with the curvature of the stick.

[rockitdoc]

Turns out that by shortening the aft pushrod for elevator and lengthening the mid pushrod the stick can be adjusted quite a bit fore and aft. I shortened the aft rod 1/4" and the mid the same with a resulting aft movement of the sticks nearly 1-1/2"! Now the sticks clear the heater controls knobs even at full pull.

[rockitdoc]

I rearranged the panel again. I didn't like where the USB receptacles were. I moved them both to the far right on the copilot panel. I 'think' this is the final version (v3.3). All the startup bits are far to port. All lights are under the MFD. Center stack contains flaps, fuel, A/P and far to starboard are the USB's and ELT.



Finally got all the electronics boxes mounted behind the panel. This is a bigger job than it might seem. Nearly everything has to be custom fabricated so the bits don't interfere with each other and so the wires have room. Now, I can route all the wires, secure the wires and hook up everything.

[rockitdoc]

I wired both sticks over the past few days. Used dSubs instead of Molex. Got the harness secured and checked all for continuity. All checks out! It should work. Only question I have is that the wire for A/P disconnect (yellow) does not seem to be connected to the large 50 pin dSub, at least according to the plans. But the wire disappears into the 50 pin shell, so not sure what this is about. I'll call Vans.

[rockitdoc]

Installed the canopy switch and wired it today.





Not sure that the wires should exit the canopy all the way forward like I have them, now. Probably have to exit them aft somewhat so they don't get smashed into the sub panel with the canopy closed.

[rockitdoc]

I was wiring the canopy for fans, canopy latch switch and panel lights, but realized that painting it before finalizing all the wiring would be the next step. Easier to paint it, now, before mounting the fans and leds. So, my son and I started prepping it.





After a good scuff with Maroon Scotchbrite I prepped the gun





And shot the wash prime





I will wait until 4 today to shoot the urethane primer, then tomorrow I'll shoot the color and clear coat. The timing is important since the urethane primer has to be scuffed if left more than 16 hours until color. So, tomorrow at 7a color goes on. Clear after that and by Monday morning everything should be cured so I can wire the canopy.

[rockitdoc]

So, the urethane primer went on last night at 4p.






And today at 6a I shot the silver base coat and two clear coats




The rest of today I will install my master switch, ignition switch (backordered since December '22) and the two Pmag test buttons.

[rockitdoc]

This is what my panel finally looks like, I think.

Got the Master, Ignition and Pmag Buttons installed today while canopy cures. I will wire the canopy switch, fans and red and panel lights tomorrow.