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  #1  
Old 06-18-2022, 01:47 PM
sc_pilot's Avatar
sc_pilot sc_pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Posts: 13
Default Alternative to P60G2 Primer?

I went to my local Sherman Williams to see what it would cost for the recommended P60G2 wash primer and R7K44 reducer. To my surprise, they said that due to supply chain, Sherwin Williams has stopped production on that product. Not sure whether that’s true or not but I was recommended another product. It’s an industrial water based acrylic primer that was touted as having great adhesion to minimally prepped metal surfaces and good corrosion properties. I kind of like the idea of a water based product for clean up and toxicity.

I’m for sure priming my plane because I live 3 miles from the Ca coast and when I went to look at purchasing an 8 year old rv12 kit at my airport, it had the beginnings of oxidation or corrosion. (White speckled surface over the whole airframe. Not sure what it was but I wasn’t at ease looking at it.) I definitely don’t want that starting on the inside of my plane.

However, I’m thinking I might just forgo spraying with the gun all together and just use a high quality rattle can primer. I used some cheap self etching primer on a zenith rudder kit but wasn’t impressed… even with my low expectations. Scratched off easily.

Opinions on this acrylic product? Anyone used it? Rattle can options? How many rattle cans for a plane? I know Brandon Flores on YouTube used rattle cans for most of his kit but I don’t recall him saying how many he used for each sub kit.

Hoping my kit crates and ships out on time in July

Link to the acrylic primer below:
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/pai...urface-acrylic

Product Data Sheet:
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/doc.../035777897324/

Thanks,
Jacob

Last edited by sc_pilot : 06-18-2022 at 02:01 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-18-2022, 02:27 PM
MED MED is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 927
Default

May be a California dodge. At least it was available when I needed it, but supply chain shortages sounds as good an excuse as any. When I first read your handle, I was assuming you were a South Carolina pilot, not a Santa Cruz pilot. If you had been, I was going to tell you to drop by and I would fix you up.
Good luck. This, too, will end . . . I think . . .
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  #3  
Old 06-18-2022, 03:17 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,938
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I would use any of the epoxy primers on the interior. The ones from Kirker, Southern Polyurethanes, Summit Racing, PPG, whatever. All you're trying to do is create a barrier. On the external surfaces, wait until you're ready to paint the exterior and prime at that time.
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Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
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  #4  
Old 06-18-2022, 04:50 PM
Larry DeCamp Larry DeCamp is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Clinton, Indiana
Posts: 1,244
Default Other options

nason, Spies Hieker,stewart systems.
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RV3B sold
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Clinton, IN
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  #5  
Old 06-18-2022, 04:55 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 5,354
Default P60G2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright View Post
I would use any of the epoxy primers on the interior. The ones from Kirker, Southern Polyurethanes, Summit Racing, PPG, whatever. All you're trying to do is create a barrier. On the external surfaces, wait until you're ready to paint the exterior and prime at that time.
Call outside CA. P60G2 is an excellent wash primer. I still use it. Super light.
If not, use a 2K Epoxy like Kyle suggests. AKZO is the standard but I've sprayed a lot of Kirker EnduroPrime. Tough as nails. BTW Kirker manufactures Summit and Eastwood. I buy from Auto Body Toolmart. Look for free shipping coupon code.
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Estes Park, CO
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (3,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit done. Working FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #6  
Old 06-18-2022, 06:40 PM
Jerry Jacobs Jerry Jacobs is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 2
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I was able to buy P60G2 from the industrial SW in Sacramento. I had to call a couple of them before I found one that had the more industrial options.
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  #7  
Old 06-18-2022, 07:01 PM
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PaulvS PaulvS is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 1,130
Default SW acrylic

Looking at the data sheet for the SW acrylic primer, I think it's not really suitable because the dry film thickness is quite thick (up to 2.4 mils = heavy) whereas e.g. the Akzo etch primer that I like (and is no longer available!) is less than 1 mil. Also, the SW acrylic primer is quite slow drying and requires less than 85% relative humidity for application, which will delay the building process.
It would take a lot of rattle cans (more expensive) so better to use a spray gun and quarts or gallons of P60G2 if you can find a source, or one of the other tried and tested products mentioned above.
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Building RV-6A #22320 O-320 FP. Wings and tail complete, fuselage almost done, working on canopy.
Flying my Aeroprakt A-22 STOL and the aero club's RV-9A while I build
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  #8  
Old 06-18-2022, 07:47 PM
mhenriquez mhenriquez is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Blythewood, SC
Posts: 13
Default Skygeek.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by sc_pilot View Post
I went to my local Sherman Williams to see what it would cost for the recommended P60G2 wash primer and R7K44 reducer. To my surprise, they said that due to supply chain, Sherwin Williams has stopped production on that product. Not sure whether thatís true or not but I was recommended another product. Itís an industrial water based acrylic primer that was touted as having great adhesion to minimally prepped metal surfaces and good corrosion properties. I kind of like the idea of a water based product for clean up and toxicity.

Iím for sure priming my plane because I live 3 miles from the Ca coast and when I went to look at purchasing an 8 year old rv12 kit at my airport, it had the beginnings of oxidation or corrosion. (White speckled surface over the whole airframe. Not sure what it was but I wasnít at ease looking at it.) I definitely donít want that starting on the inside of my plane.

However, Iím thinking I might just forgo spraying with the gun all together and just use a high quality rattle can primer. I used some cheap self etching primer on a zenith rudder kit but wasnít impressedÖ even with my low expectations. Scratched off easily.

Opinions on this acrylic product? Anyone used it? Rattle can options? How many rattle cans for a plane? I know Brandon Flores on YouTube used rattle cans for most of his kit but I donít recall him saying how many he used for each sub kit.

Hoping my kit crates and ships out on time in July

Link to the acrylic primer below:
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/pai...urface-acrylic

Product Data Sheet:
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/doc.../035777897324/

Thanks,
Jacob

Try Skygeek.com. Shipping is high because it is considered hazmat.

Manny
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  #9  
Old 06-18-2022, 11:08 PM
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sc_pilot sc_pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Posts: 13
Default Thank you all!

Thank you all for the recommendations. Iíll keep hunting down the P60G2 but will explore some of the other options listed above. Of everything, priming has me worked up the most. Iím not very familiar with paints and havenít touched a spray gun before. Iím sure Iíll learn but would like to keep the learning expense and wasted materials to a minimum.

And Iím sure when you get in the flow of building, not many people want to take a break to prep and prime parts.😂
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  #10  
Old 06-19-2022, 04:51 AM
Reflex Reflex is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 212
Default

I used Stewart Systems EkoPoxy on my project. I've been happy with the results. However, I have a couple of buddies building a -10 nearby who are using P60G2 and the results have been good.

While I think the EkoPoxy might be a bit better product, it's heavier, harder to spray, and the prep is more critical. The P60G2 is an easier product to use, has excellent availability (here), and cures much more quickly. Yes, I believe the EkoPoxy is easier on my body and the environment, but it comes at the cost of dollars and time.

Bottom line, I think P60G2 is a good product and I'll use it on my next project. My opinion is that you've made a good choice and I'd continue to try to find the P60G2.
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Fuse Complete
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