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  #11  
Old 09-24-2022, 07:49 AM
Clipper1 Clipper1 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ
Posts: 55
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The engine has 400 hours on it TTSN (3 years). Is this a problem that sometimes has no specific cause? Assuming the breather line is not blocked.

I assume that sometime the glue around the seal fails and this causes it to leak a little. I've noticed that on the io540 it has a plate covering this seal. I wonder why they didn't do this on the io360/390 engine??
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  #12  
Old 09-24-2022, 12:49 PM
ShortSnorter ShortSnorter is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: NOLA
Posts: 378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clipper1 View Post
I have a little oil leaking from the front of the engine. I'm thinking it is either coming from the prop seal or the crankshaft seal. Is running the engine ok to do or is there a concern that you could blow out either seal? I'm not sure how either seal is secured in and so I am unaware how much risk there is and therefore figured I'd ask.

TIA
FWIW I had to replace my crankshaft seal a few months ago with less than 200 hours on it. I called Lycoming and they said its pretty common on the new motors because the EPA made them change from Pliobond to a "greener" adhesive. Even though the calendar time was over they gladly covered the part and labor under warranty. Instead of the one piece seal that came from the factory I elected to install the split seal. Reinstallation (used pliobond) was cake once the prop was off.
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  #13  
Old 09-24-2022, 05:04 PM
Clipper1 Clipper1 is offline
 
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I actually managed to get my hand and fingers around the starter ring today and could fell the seal. When I moved the prop I could also feel the seal turning, which I'm sure it shouldn't?

Using my fingers I felt it 'click' when I pushed it back and then I went and flew the pattern. No oil at all right now. I've got a spare part and I'm going to change it. Is Pilabond better then Dowling 737?
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  #14  
Old 09-24-2022, 05:41 PM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clipper1 View Post
I actually managed to get my hand and fingers around the starter ring today and could fell the seal. When I moved the prop I could also feel the seal turning, which I'm sure it shouldn't?

Using my fingers I felt it 'click' when I pushed it back and then I went and flew the pattern. No oil at all right now. I've got a spare part and I'm going to change it. Is Pilabond better then Dowling 737?
I’ve always used PlioBond, and never had one break loose inadvertently - just make surer every surface is surgically clean before you re-install. You can find a write-up on the entire process at:

https://www.kitplanes.com/maintenance-matters-45/

Whatever you do, please DON’T fly the airplane again with the seal in the condition you described - you can easily blow it out if its not glued in place, and then you lose the entire engine oil load pretty fast - its a mess, even if you’re in the pattern when it happens! If you’re not in the pattern, start looking for a cornfield……
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  #15  
Old 09-24-2022, 06:15 PM
Clipper1 Clipper1 is offline
 
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Location: Cherry Hill, NJ
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This is an EXCELLENT article. Just what I was seeking out. Also, I feel a little embarrassed that I flew today too.

I cannot tell you how much this information helps. it REALLY is appreciated.
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  #16  
Old 10-05-2022, 01:08 PM
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Low Pass Low Pass is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Texas
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I've chased a bunch of chronic leaky nose seals in my time, so I guess this is a good place to pass along some hard-earned knowledge. For chronic leaky seal situations, consider these two mods.

If your seal has spun, and you're confident it was installed clean and bonded well, you might consider using Proseal. Everyone I mention this to says, "OMG! You'll never get it out." Not true. It bonds very well, yet is still removable.

If your seal stays bonded, but still leaks, I suggest shortening the spring by ~3/8 - 1/2 inch. To do this, just cut off the appropriate amount from the loop end of the spring. Bend over two new loops 90-degrees to the spring and attach as normally intended. Will provide more sealing force.

I've done this on quite a few seals over the last 10-15 years and never once spontaneously combusted or perished mysteriously, yet.

Last, someone mentioned the "retainer plates" on the nose. The newer engines casings are generally cast to accommodate these. Some are drilled and tapped (1/4"), some not. And some of the older casings have drilled and tapped smaller holes (3/16"). So, it varies. But I do like having these plates installed.
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Last edited by Low Pass : 10-05-2022 at 01:12 PM.
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