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Air/oil separators - good, bad, and the ugly...

Air/Oil separators

  • Anti-Splat

    Votes: 54 52.4%
  • Airflow Super Slime Fighter

    Votes: 2 1.9%
  • Nothing

    Votes: 47 45.6%

  • Total voters
    103

Cptnmat

Member
I've made it through phase one and now considering adding an air/oil separator to help keep the belly clean.

Is there a consensus on the Anti-splat version over the Airflow Super Slime fighter? Or is it best to just keep wiping the oil off after each trip (doesn't really take that long if you keep on top of it)
 
I bought the version sold and branded by aircraft spruce and not happy with it. I bought the splat version and very happy with it on both the 6 and the 10. Be sure to get the larger version for the 10. It has it's limits, but seems to work well for low blowby cases.

Can't say they are better than the others out there, but it performs well in my case.

Larry
 
I’ve used this on the 8A and the 8: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php?clickkey=9808

I used this on the RV-10 (the six cylinder version): https://antisplataero.com/products/the-asa-oil-separator

Both work. On install I suggest:
- Mount it as high on the firewall as possible.
- NEVER return the collected oil back to the engine. Collect it in a old style Brasso type can. I get perhaps 1/2” in the can between oil changes. Not all that much but enough to make a mess on the belly.
- On the Antispat NEVER add the crankcase vacuum attachement.

I run the vent line from the separator to the normal “just above the exhaust pipe” location. I add a short piece of aluminum pipe in the end of the vent line to move the hose end away from the exhaust pipe heat.

Carl
 
Antisplat crankcase vacuum attachment

- On the Antispat NEVER add the crankcase vacuum attachment (Quote)

Care to explain ?

Even DanH runs one although modified with an alternate discharge path to prevent blockage.

I’ve run a couple of iterations of this design entering into the collector of my 4 into 1 header and have been happy with the result. However as others have mentioned check for coking at the discharge end at each oil change.

Duff
 
I’ve used this on the 8A and the 8: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php?clickkey=9808.
- NEVER return the collected oil back to the engine. Collect it in a old style Brasso type can. I get perhaps 1/2” in the can between oil changes. Not all that much but enough to make a mess on the belly.
- On the Antispat NEVER add the crankcase vacuum attachment.

Carl
I disagree. The exhaust risk has been well documented and can be mitigated.
 
I disagree. The exhaust risk has been well documented and can be mitigated.

Agree - the risk can be mitigated with additional maintenance (assuming people do it). But what is the gain? I suggest very little if any - and I suspect trying to quantify it would be difficult.

Carl
 
4 options come to mind-

1- You do acro and go full or half Raven/Christen, with or without exhaust augmented breathing or accumulator for prop or oil pressure. Cleaner belly and less oil loss.

2- you go air/oil sep, non acro and drain it back to sump- don't coke your exhaust augmenter IF you use one, insulate the system to keep the return oil, if reused, from condensing any water vapor, considerr the extra safety valve if the coking blocks the exhaust augmentor and the crankcase could otherwise pressurize and pop your crankshaft nose seal. How do you monitor cylinder seal and ring wear issues? I suggest direct reading compression checks using the starter annually, not just a TDC differential /80 psi check if option 1 or 2.

3- above, but do not return oil to sump- catch can to keep belly clean, the fill rate will help monitor blowby and ring or cylinder wear over time.

4- just a breather- find the sweet spot that does not over draught or pressurize crankcase- don't freeze it up in winter- use a whistle slot or safety valve, monitor rings and cylinder by any belly grime increases. I still check my battery by doing a direct compression starter check plus differential /80 psi TDC check.

Originally my belly got a bit dirty because my breather outlet was too much inside the lower cowl high pressure zone and created a bit of slime as too much oil was coming out the breather and the nearest exhaust was not vaporizing it. Put the 45 degree bias facing aft and lengthend the breather outlet about two inches to be in a more nuetral pressure/flow location. Have been happy with it even after doing light acro. I still test both direct and differential compression annualy.

Have had #1 on a Pitts, prefer #4 on the RV-6.
 
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Here's to cleaner bellies!

I've made it through phase one and now considering adding an air/oil separator to help keep the belly clean.

Is there a consensus on the Anti-splat version over the Airflow Super Slime fighter? Or is it best to just keep wiping the oil off after each trip (doesn't really take that long if you keep on top of it)

I have one that came off a Mooney. Works well. The outlet is attached to a welded fitting that dumps the residual onto the exhaust pipes and mostly gets burned up. There is usually very little on the belly of the airplane....which I like!:)
 
Agree - the risk can be mitigated with additional maintenance (assuming people do it). But what is the gain? I suggest very little if any - and I suspect trying to quantify it would be difficult.

Carl

A much cleaner belly, to start with.

I clean my exhaust checkvalve every other oil filter change, 100hr intervals. That time interval has shown itself to be just about right with my flying habits, as it is showing some carbon buildups but nowhere close to blocking off. It adds about 5 minutes to every other oil change - certainly not a large burden compared to the PITA of cleaning an oily belly.

I just remove it, unscrew it, and run a drill bit through to knock off the carbon. Reassemble and install, done. I also have an alternate vent path if it does plug up.
 
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- On the Antispat NEVER add the crankcase vacuum attachment (Quote)

Care to explain ?

Even DanH runs one although modified with an alternate discharge path to prevent blockage.

Crankcase evacuation yes, but my own, not an Anti-Splat.

The Anti-Splat setup for the -10 has been problematical, coking the exhaust tap on a tailpipe rather quickly in some applications. If you choose to run one, be absolutely sure to install the extra relief valve, so if/when the tap cokes shut, the breather gas can still escape.

A tap into a collector location is similar to what I ran on roadrace bikes many moons ago. For the Lycoming, I tap a single headpipe 10, maybe 11 inches down from the #4 exhaust port. I have run as much as 140 hours without it coking shut. Now it gets cleaned at each oil change. Pulls a nice case vacuum. Belly shows exhaust stain only.

https://www.danhorton.net/Articles/Separator-or-Condenser.pdf
 
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Dan, can you share the specs of the check valves you have on your RV-8? Both the exhaust pipe-mounted one and your "safety valve".

Heinrich
 
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Both NAPA/Echlin. I machined the nut off the safety valve to save a few ounces, as it doesn't need threads.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB229003A
.

Ah, good idea to cut off the nut. I thought maybe you had found something COTS like that.

Did some digging and that Napa valve above says it has a 1/2" hose nipple, which is smaller than the stock Lycoming size, but a worm-drive hose clamp should crush the hose into submission. Or use a reducer at the crankcase fitting and plumb the rest of it in 1/2" hose.

Found one with a 5/8" hose nipple, but it has female threads so wouldn't be a direct replacement for Dan's installation, but good for others wanting to copy Dan's DIY setup: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=40788&jsn=722
 
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- NEVER return the collected oil back to the engine. Collect it in a old style Brasso type can. I get perhaps 1/2” in the can between oil changes. Not all that much but enough to make a mess on the belly.

Carl

Kind of a stupid question but want to make sure I understand your solution. You’re saying you mounted a “Brasso” type can somewhere below the separator and plumbed the return into that?
 
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Return to crank case

Seems everyone has their favorite way to deal with Air/oil sep.
Antisplat installation on my RV-10 with modifications due to issues with carbon clogging of the breather tube.
The good, the bad and the ugly:
Hooking up the breather end of the hose to the exhaust, definitely draws a bit of vacuum on the crank case. I measured and verified this before and after installation. (the good) In 700 hrs of operation I cannot find any detectable leaks or seeps
on the engine, none, zero. (the good) Absolutely no oil on the belly.
The belly now collect a hue of brownish carbon that seems to be more difficult to remove than before when a little oil was mixed in with it. (not sure sure if that is bad or ugly)
Due to early issues with a clogged breather line and a resulting emergency landing by another RV-10 , I installed a secondary check valve ( ugly). I now remove the breather hose from the exhaust port every time I change the oil and run a drill bit down the pipe to clear up any carbon build up. There was significant build up of carbon the first time I inspected this pipe but with regular cleaning I see no build up. Catastrophic engine failure may result if you overlook this important maintenance item.
Returning oil into the crank case from the separator seems to be one of those issues most can't agree on. I can't see why oil separated from water is any more contaminated than oil that is sloshing around the crank case.
On Antisplat's system, there was also a claim of an increase in HP due to the vacuum drawn on the crank case. I can't say that I noticed any increase in horsepower but I haven't been able to measure it either.
 
- NEVER return the collected oil back to the engine.
Carl

I dump the excess back into the engine. Followed the example set on my BMW, which does the same (yes it has oil separators instead of PCV). Any oil or moisture separated in the device was originally in the crankcase, so see no issue in putting it back from where it came. WHile running, your crankcase is filled with oil mist and moisture. Simply no harm in putting it back with all the other oil and moisture in there.

Larry
 
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WHile running, your crankcase is filled with oil mist and moisture. Simply no harm in putting it back with all the other oil and moisture in there.

Larry

if the separator system is operating at a temperature above the dewpoint of the components we wish to eliminate (water mostly), none goes back to the crankcase. It's in vapor phase and goes to the outlet, be it the freestream or an exhaust tap.
 
Pics

Dan,
I've been studying up on this quite a bit. I think I'm about ready to order parts. I see the safety valve in your article could you please post a pic of your plumbing into the exhaust?
 
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Dan, I see the safety valve in your article could you please post a pic of your plumbing into the exhaust?

Welded tube. Two braces ensure no fatigue issues. Disk is a simple approach to keeping the valve cool. It works; I had a thermistor on the valve for a while.
.
 

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I went ahead and installed the AntiSplat system, into the exhaust, with the safety bypass valve. So far it’s been working as advertised. My plan is to remove the exhaust tap at each condition inspection and de-coke with a drill bit as required.
 
I have the AntiSplatt evacuation system only - no air/oil separator - on my new RV6. This is my second RV using this system. I get no oil on the belly and very little coking, which I clean every oil change. The only thing I see on my belly is some exhaust soot that cleans off easily.
 
Air-oil separator.....

I have the AntiSplat system.

To be an accurate survey, there needs to be an "other" option as there are many other options besides the two listed.....;) Unless the survey is to determine which of those two options is most used.....

Another survey could be what people do with the drainage from the separator: dump it? Brasso can? Back into the crankcase? It would also be nice to hear from the "experts" on the drawbacks of sending it back to the crankcase. Arguments above to dump it back into the crankcase make sense but may not be valid......:confused:
 
There is no way I would pipe this gunk back into the crankcase! Most of the drainage is water, a little oil, and this is what remains after a few years... too long... I will be checking it at annual from now on...

Mine is machined by a friend based on the Andair separator. Works great... On mine, the collection cup is a part of the separator with a tube to drain...
 

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There is no way I would pipe this gunk back into the crankcase!

Only two ways to to send liquid water back to the crankcase. It left the breather port as liquid (cold engine), or the separator system was acting as a condenser, and cooled vapor back into liquid.
 
The RV9 I bought came with a ASA separator with the drainback to the crankcase. I noticed this winter that my DIY crankcase dryer wasn't getting the humidity in the crankcase as low as I thought it should. I thought maybe it's because the moisture that would normally evaporate from the oil when running was draining back into the engine. So I capped the oil drainback tube on the separator and will monitor the accumulation. No idea if this is a sound theory but the crankcase accumulators on my racecars sure collected alot of water and a bit of oil....
 
My opinion whether you're just using a straight vent tube or some kind of air oil separator do not pipe the gunk coming out of your breather back into the engine. It's full of moisture acids and combustion by products. A catch can is good. Once you see that gunk you would NOT pour it back into crank case.

If you with Van's plans you will have something that works, LIGHT WEIGHT, SIMPLE, LESS COST AND CLUTTER.

Positive suction on the CC breather will increase oil consumption. That is why you bevel end of breather and slot to avoid suction. Put breather over exhaust should burn most water oil off. Real men have planes with oil on belly. Ha ha.
 
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The RV9 I bought came with a ASA separator with the drainback to the crankcase. I noticed this winter that my DIY crankcase dryer wasn't getting the humidity in the crankcase as low as I thought it should. I thought maybe it's because the moisture that would normally evaporate from the oil when running was draining back into the engine. So I capped the oil drainback tube on the separator and will monitor the accumulation. No idea if this is a sound theory but the crankcase accumulators on my racecars sure collected alot of water and a bit of oil....
Yep don't drain back that goop into crank. Either get catch bottle or get rid of the air oil separator. The issue is water is mixed with oil & acids of combustion byproduct blow by.. it's nasty.milky mix. These "seperators" are not like marine engines that runs oil through centrifuge seperators to remove fuel, water and particulates from oil. They spin at 7000 rpm. The purified oil is returned to crank. These things sold for planes are marginal to pointless in returning clean oil to engine. They do return stuff to engine and may keep belly cleaner, a little? At what cost, more oil contamination and internal corrosion due to higher mosture inside engine. Give me dirty belly and blow all that blowby and mosture out.
 
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There is no way I would pipe this gunk back into the crankcase! Most of the drainage is water, a little oil, and this is what remains after a few years... too long... I will be checking it at annual from now on...

Mine is machined by a friend based on the Andair separator. Works great... On mine, the collection cup is a part of the separator with a tube to drain...

I’ve seen sludge like that on oil filler caps. On my Continental, I was taught to take the cap off while cleaning off the bugs to let the engine vent into the air instead of the breather tube to avoid that sludge. Is this an urban legend or good practice?

I can say I see visible vapor when taking the cap off on a hot engine.
 
Positive suction on the CC breather will increase oil consumption.

I'll skip the "don't send bad stuff that came out of the engine back into engine that contains a whole bunch more of the same bad stuff" comment. But, going to need to some detail on the claim that suction on the breather increases oil consumption.
 
Wow, hard claims of "it reduces/increases oil consumption", "it returns acids to your crankcase/sends acids out of your crankcase", "it makes your collars whiter/it makes your collars grayer" ...

I made up the last one, sorry.

Point being, lots of hard beliefs that don't seem to be agreed on or well proven. Maybe we can add this to a sticky with the primer wars etc.

Pick one and move on, but sure fun to watch!
 
Wow, hard claims of "it reduces/increases oil consumption", "it returns acids to your crankcase/sends acids out of your crankcase", "it makes your collars whiter/it makes your collars grayer" ...
I appreciate your provocateur attitude, instigating arguments for your entertainment. However let's be productive.

Rebuttal to the acid comment, since you are directly mocking it and I made that "claim". It's An not unproven. Air cooled large bore Lycoming's have considerable blow-by, including combustion products, including water, unburned fuel and particulates. Combustion products are nasty, acidic and will mix with oil. That is getting inside your crank case at first as gas and mist. You want that to vent before mixing with the oil. Notice oil turns black after oil change? Vent it out with out restriction and without condensing it and returning it back to crankcase. That is my story and sticking to it.

My proof? Decades of using different air/oil seperators and draining the by product coming out from these seperators into a catch can and analyzing. As others said you do not want that in your engine. Half of it is water. The other half is oil emulsifierd with more water and afore mentioned combustion products.

Do these gadgets keep belly clean? Is it worth it, or do you just wipe belly down. My opunion is the belly gets dirty no matter what you do with exhaust and any oil leaks under cowl. It all blows. Acknowledge under plane. Do as you like.

Lycoming - No oil use or super low oil consumption is not normal for these engines. That is a fact. If you are using excessive oil, burning oil you have valve guide, ring, cylinder issues.

I do agree most claims about lowering oil consumption are false. Many Air/Oil seperators only separate you from your money. Its a crank case vent for gosh. It's not rocket surgery (ha ha). These seperators mainly feed water and dirty oil back to engine. If you add a catch bottle it may reduce some belly slime but not all.
 
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Rebuttal to the acid comment, since you are directly mocking it and I made that "claim". It's An not unproven. Air cooled large bore Lycoming's have considerable blow-by, including combustion products, including water, unburned fuel and particulates. Combustion products are nasty, acidic and will mix with oil. That is getting inside your crank case at first as gas and mist. You want that to vent before mixing with the oil. Notice oil turns black after oil change? Vent it out with out restriction and without condensing it and returning it back to crankcase. That is my story and sticking to it.

I don't believe there are harmful acids in combustion gasses. If there were, you would have all sorts of issues all over the engine, as it is constantly exposed to it. HOWEVER, when certain elements of the combustion gas (sorry, don't remember which one it was) mix with water, an acid is formed. These acids can be damaging and they are the white, milky gunk that forms on places like the oil fill cap. If you have this problem, it is all over the engine. The elements of the combustion gas DO NOT not mix with oil. Instead they are held in suspension in the oil. The acids formed by mixing the gas elements with water are large and tend to congeal and form on areas that do not get a lot of oil flow and they cannot be held in suspension. The crankcase is filled with water vapor any time it is running (it is a byproduct of combustion). Even IF you are sending it back from the separator, what's the big deal? The crankcase is already filled with it and that is why it was pushed out to the separator. What could be the harm in sending it back from where it originated?

As I have mentioned in the past, my BMW engine has 2 air oil separators that send the liquid back to the oil pan. I have to believe that if this was somehow damaging the engine, the designers would not have done it that way. I am sure there are some that would say "phooey, folks on the internet are much smarter than those BMW engineers." Others will say "It's an airplane engine and therefore different." I guess we must each make our own choice.

Larry
 
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My airplane had an Anti-splat separator on it when I bought it a few years ago. I had no experience with the things so was a little skeptical, but my oil consumption is zero, the oil always looks clean, and multiple oil analyses even pre-dating my purchase show no concerning trends. I've been prepared to remove it if it's a bad thing, but multiple sources, including this thread, have failed to provide a consensus about good vs bad so I'm leaving it for the time being.
 
I don't believe there are harmful acids in combustion gasses. If there were, you would have all sorts of issues all over the engine, as it is constantly exposed to it.
Larry
Larry I'm not going to argue. Do as you like. Corrosion internally is a big big issue with aircraft engines in part due to how infrequently they are operated compared to the family car. Second is big bore and loose air-cooled cylinders, way more blow-by then a car with tiny pistons in water cooled cylinders. H2O is one of the biggest combustion products whuch the air/oil seperators collect. Pipe that Water back into your engine to your hearts content. Water is formed by condensation after engine is shut down and parks as well as H2O combustion byproduct blow by. Water alone is enough reason to not to pipe the breather vent liquid back into engine.

Below is a short list of combustion by products for unleaded gas. Our leaded Av gas exhaust is more nasty. SO2 is not goodness. Collect the output from air/oil seperators and send to lab for Ph (acidity). All this stuff below goes into suspension in your oil with other Hydrocarbons. Do as you like. Up to you.

Water H2O
Carbon dioxide (CO2) –
Carbon monoxide (CO)
Nitrogen oxides (NOx)
Sulfur dioxide (SO2) –
Hydrocarbons (HC) –
Benzene (C6H6) –
 
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I just vent overboard and wipe off the belly after every flight. Takes only a fraction of the time it takes to clean the bugs off, which I also do after every flight. Always like to spend some post flight time enjoying the recent flight and "petting" the airplane (and updating logbooks). I am never in a hurry to leave the airport after a flight, which typically means going home to do chores.
 
I just vent overboard and wipe off the belly after every flight. Takes only a fraction of the time it takes to clean the bugs off, which I also do after every flight. Always like to spend some post flight time enjoying the recent flight and "petting" the airplane (and updating logbooks). I am never in a hurry to leave the airport after a flight, which typically means going home to do chores.

To each his own. Cleaning the belly of my 10 was a chore I detested. If i didn't do it regularly, it was even worse. Now my 10's belly stays nice and clean so I'm very happy with my decision.
 
However let's be productive.

Yes please.

Air cooled large bore Lycoming's have considerable blow-by, including combustion products, including water, unburned fuel and particulates. Combustion products are nasty, acidic and will mix with oil.

George, let's set aside "nasty" for the moment. As an engineer, perhaps would you be kind enough to quantify "acidic". What sort of acid? How acidic is it?

Vent it out with out restriction and without condensing it and returning it back to crankcase. That is my story and sticking to it.

Mine too.

When the engine is at operating temperature, a good separator does not condense...and if it does not condense, it cannot return liquid water to the crankcase.

My proof? Decades of using different air/oil seperators and draining the by product coming out from these seperators into a catch can and analyzing.

So, again, be an engineer. Let's assume the separator drains to a catch can. Catch cans often do collect water. How did it get there?
 
Yes please. George, let's set aside "nasty" for the moment. As an engineer, perhaps would you be kind enough to quantify "acidic". What sort of acid? How acidic is it?
From MIT "Characterization of the exhaust gas condensate pH values of gasoline engines", Ph is in the 2 to 3 in rich condition. Read the chart below. At best in lean condition 3-6 lean, still on the acidic side. I can assure you our aircraft engines are closer to the 2 to 3 range. One we have a lot of blow by and two we run rich a lot. In other words it is "NASTY". You don't want to keep combustion products in your CRANK CASE. It seems like common sense, no?

https://dspace.mit.edu/handle/1721.1/106780

Scale if acidity and alkaline

More over one big by-product of combustion is H2O, not including H2O that condenses inside engine when parked. You agree dry air inside engine is good. Moisture is an electrolytic and causes corrosion of the steel inside engine (cam, lifters, rods, crank. accessory gears, rings, cylinder bore).

Let me repeat do as you like. Now tell me Dan what is the REASON for pushing the vent tube condensate back into the engine? OIL SAVINGS? No. Keep the belly clean? My opinion this is negligible. As far as acid or Sulfur Dioxide (SO2) is NASTY and acidic (MIT).

My OPINION is the stuff that is aerosolized in the crank case has some OIL but a lot of water and combustion by-products and raw fuel. This is why the EPA wants cars to regurgitate it through the combustion again. In the OLD DAYS crank vents went into the atmosphere. The Gov said NASTY! You could take the goop out the air oil separator and run it back through your induction? Cars do it, and cars have problems because of it. EGR or PCV is done for clean air at cost of coke and gumming up internal engine components. You route that garbage into your Lycs intake you will have the same problems as cars do. Read on...

The fancy Air Oil Separators made from aluminum billets and anodized for cars has a reason. To solve a problem. Positive Crankcase Ventilation is an emission regulation since the late 60's and early 1970's. In the old days it went through a PCV valve in the valve cover back to intake. Now with modern engines, fuel injection, tight clearances, the regurgitated crankcase gases cokes the induction, mass airflow sensor, and valves, i.e., carbon deposits. All of the car PCV oil catchers I see, captures the mucky goop for disposal, doesn't draining it back into the crank case. The idea is lower the contamination in the induction. I am sure some rebels just vent it to ATMO. At least we can still VENT overboard. Dan not sure why you think the crank vent has goodness and you want some of that NASTY stuff back in engine? Really.

I have run TWO air/oil separators on Lycs. I put in a catch bottle on both. I could see through the high grade translucent plastic catch bottle what level of goop was in it, with cowl oil fill door open. I typically would get about 4-6 ounces of stuff every 25 hours. In winter with wet air it filled in half the time, mostly water. Did this keep belly clean? Not really. I had a small accessory case oil leak, valve drain line, and at 200mph everything goes back, not to mention exhaust stains. Also I went upside down occasionally. I cleaned the belly as needed.

When the engine is at operating temperature, a good separator does not condense...and if it does not condense, it cannot return liquid water to the crankcase.
Dan please prove it. Oh yes it is SO hot it just goes out the vent tube AS IF THERE WAS NO SEPERATOR... ha ha. Why have a separator. What happens when NOT so hot. Reminds me of the perpetual motion free energy machine. Dan that mist will cool and condense. I hear a sales spiel coming from anti Splat guy. Over the years going to Airventure I heard all the sales pitches from the latest air oil separators or separate money from your wallet devices. They all claim to do amazing things with "vortex", swirls, heat and blah blah blah. I made my own once from a Tony Bengalis book. It had a pot scrubber inside. It caught a lot but had to clean it out often. The same applied to this DIY model and store bought ones. I want my CRANK VENT to vent. The engine is spitting it out for a reason. I do agree if you run your engine hard, hot, for extended periods of time, almost daily corrosion will likely not be an issue. But why do you want this? WHY? Vent it out Bro. It is called a Crank Case VENT TUBE not crank case feed it back in engine TUBE. Ha ha.

All the many better mouse trap separators do is condense the misty muck into liquid. Once the water cools it will collect in the separator can. Just cut the middleman out and follow Van's plan. Run it just above the exhaust with proper precaution to not create a vacuum and draw oil out of crank case. Burn it off on hot exhaust pipes. BLOW BY, BYE BYE.

So, again, be an engineer. Let's assume the separator drains to a catch can. Catch cans often do collect water. How did it get there?
Dan Thank you I am a Mechanical engineer. I apologize for learning math, physics and science. Dan you love trolling. I enjoy it.

So again I repeat myself. Combustion makes a lot of H20. 5" diameter pistons in air-cooled cylinders have a lot of clearance (compared to tiny car pistons in water cooled jackets with tight tolerances). The Lyc blow by goes INTO the crank case. We established that blow by is NASTY, acidic, SO2, lead, moisture Laden mist with unburned fuel. That is why a VENT is needed. Your crank case is being pressurized by the pumping of pistons that do NOT seal perfectly. Those separators by the way often are restrictions and cause higher crank pressures.

Second reason we have water in our engines, is when you shut down your hot Lyc. sucks in moisture ladened warm air into the crank. As Temps fall at night, air becomes saturated and condenses on inside of engine. Once you start the engine all the churning of engine parts, oil splashing on the wet parts, oil and water mix (like shaking oil and vinegar in bottle, it mixes but will separate over time if left to settle). You have to FLY for awhile at operational temps to burn that water out.

So WHY put WATER back into engine. I know some claim their separator does all kinds of things. Add in the condensate that is fairly acidic,

Dan put your Engineer Cap on. I ask is it worth the cost, weight, complexity and what are the PROS and CONS. Some of these separators are RESTRICTIVE and cause elevated CANK CASE pressures. That can blow seals. It is up to you my friend. Do as you like. I am going to the Church of DO NOT DRAIN CRANK CASE VENT SNOT STUFF BACK IN ENGINE... Blow it over board or catch in a bottle for later disposal. Do as you like. Up to you. Cheers

PS: Someone will say they live in the aired hot dry desert South West? Engine or airframe corrosion is less of an issue. Still combustion makes H2O and that gets into the crank case. You want it OUT and vented overboard. What little oil you lose via the vent is small. Most oil consumption is being burned in the combustion chamber and blown out the pipes.
 
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From MIT "Characterization of the exhaust gas condensate pH values of gasoline engines",

"From MIT" sounds impressive, but the referenced document is a grad student paper, dealing with acid formation in an exhaust gas recirculation cooler...the polar opposite of the desired conditions in a separator. But hey, let's humor your choice.

Ph is in the 2 to 3 in rich condition.

The student predicted PH of the condensate in an EGR cooler would be 2 to 4. When the student actually measured the PH, it ranged from 3 to 6, with lambda (approximately peak EGT) being about 4.

One we have a lot of blow by and two we run rich a lot.

Rich and high IMEP (full throttle) was 6.

Fig%205.2.jpg


In other words it is "NASTY".

Perhaps a wee bit excessive. Not that it matters a whole lot (the above PH values were for water condensed in an exhaust cooler), but a PH of 4 isn't so bad. Apples are in the threes:

Apples%20PH.jpg


I have run TWO air/oil separators on Lycs. I put in a catch bottle on both. I could see through the high grade translucent plastic catch bottle what level of goop was in it, with cowl oil fill door open. I typically would get about 4-6 ounces of stuff every 25 hours. In winter with wet air it filled in half the time, mostly water.

Sure. The question you were asked was "Do you know why"?

Oh yes it is SO hot it just goes out the vent tube AS IF THERE WAS NO SEPERATOR... ha ha.

Correct. If gas temperature is maintained above the dew point of the vapor content, it remains in vapor phase, and the separator has no effect on that content. It's a gas. The separator can only catch materials in liquid phase.

What happens when NOT so hot.

Return to "Do you know why?"

Those separators by the way often are restrictions and cause higher crank pressures.

The Walker separator, marketed by Airwolf, is a positive pressure system. It's actually connected to a vacuum pump outlet or upper plenum pressure. All the others run at near case pressure, or lower if connected to a pump (common in auto racing) or an exhaust vacuum tap (Cubcrafters, Mooney, Cirrus, TAT, Sky Dynamics, and yes, Horton).

So WHY put WATER back into engine.

I don't...except at cold start, before blowby gas temperature trends up with oil temperature. When cold, the blowby gas has aerosol water droplets floating in it, just as cold or hot blowby contains oil droplets. Water in liquid phase is indeed separated and returned to the engine...but comes right back out, in vapor phase, when it reaches operating temperature.

Without an engine return line, the short cold period is when your catch can collects water.

BTW, why am I sure about the separator system temperatures? The gray wire is connected to a thermistor inserted into the separator outlet. Initially there was another in the breather outlet on the accessory case, which confirmed breather outflow and indicated oil temperature were essentially identical. Later it was tasked with in-cowl temperature. Insulating the breather hose with a length of firesleeve, and the can with fiberfrax and aluminum tape, keeps the system from becoming a condenser. Gas temperature only drops about 20 degrees. Both inlet and outlet are well above the dew point for water and fuel. That's the key.

Temperatures.jpg


Thermistor%20(Gray%20Wire).jpg
 
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"From MIT" sounds impressive, but the referenced document is a grad student paper....
Dan you are dismissive of Grad Students at MIT? Ha ha. One of your questions, ‘what acid’. I explained and overall PH of the stuff coming out of vent is “nasty” and acidic. You apparently disagree with no rebuttle. I win this point and your qualification of source is noted.

"The student predicted PH of the condensate in an EGR cooler would be 2 to 4. When the student actually measured the PH, it ranged from 3 to 6, with lambda (approximately peak EGT) being about 4.
You are obfuscating. My point is oh so simple. The vaporized, aerosolized stuff that comes out vent is NOT worth collecting, in my opinion. You can’t avoid returning undesirable chemicals and moisture back into engine in solution with oil or emulsified liquids.

You say it will all burn off the bad stuff when HOT. Yes separator or no separator it burns off if you fly often and change oil at 25 hours. It may take longer with an air/oil can draining back into engine. Another part of the vent gases is combustion products due to blow-by, SO2 for example. Aerosolized oil, thrown off internal moving parts, crank, rods, cam, accessory case gears is good. Yes you could collect that. No simple air/oil “can” separates and purifies oil regardless of sales claims in my opinion. The amount of oil saved is small.

My proof comes from experience with air/oil separators. My oil use is nominal. My aircraft belly needs a cleaning every once and awhile. I am good with that. How many planes fly without air/oil separator? Vast numbers. FAR’s require them? No. I avoid weight, clutter under cowl if possible. Air/oil separators can increase vent backpressure. Anything to promote a dryer internal engine environment and reducing contamination of oil is my priority.


"Rich and high IMEP (full throttle) was 6.
...... Perhaps a wee bit excessive. Not that it matters a whole lot (the above PH values were for water condensed in an exhaust cooler), but a PH of 4 isn't so bad. Apples are in the threes:.
What is your point. "Not that bad". OK. You concede this point the condensate is acidic and gets into crank case. You don’t think this with moisture can increase contamination of engine oil and promote corrosion (especially is disused engines). You can throw all kind of obfuscation at this, but the vented stuff is definitely not neutral or desirable. Why capture anything from vent? Small loss in oil. I just don't think it's worth it. That is my story and sticking to it.

"Sure. The question you were asked was "Do you know why"? Correct. If gas temperature is maintained above the dew point of the vapor content, it remains in vapor phase, and the separator has no effect on that content. It's a gas. The separator can only catch materials in liquid phase. .
Of course correct. You are ignoring the point and mis-quoting me. You feeding condensed crank case gases and droplets back to the engine is dubious. You claim your air/oil separator is special. OK. Prove it.

Dan take measurements with and with drain tube off your air/oil separator and collect it in a bottle. Do a before and after. Is belly cleaner? Is oil consumption down? What is the oil analysis of catch bottle? What is crank case oil analysis before and after air/oil separator draining back to crank case. Oil gets BLACK and we change it every 25 hours. In a car by hours, that is an oil change every 3 to 4 weeks. Yes oil will get dirty regardless by why help it get more contaminated, even if just a little.



Return to "Do you know why?" The Walker separator, marketed by Airwolf, is a positive pressure system. It's actually connected to a vacuum pump outlet or upper plenum pressure. All the others run at near case pressure, or lower if connected to a pump (common in auto racing) or an exhaust vacuum tap (Cubcrafters, Mooney, Cirrus, TAT, Sky Dynamics, and yes, Horton).
Dan you made a logical fallacy called an appeal to authority, and strawman argument, rebuttal to a point not asked or disputed, meaningless, not addressing my comment. I never said air/oil separators can’t condense the vent tube stuff back into a liquid. Also how many thousands of certified planes and EAB kit planes have been produced and flown happily for countless hours WITH NO AIR OIL SEPERATOR?

Old days GA air/oil separators were for WET Vacuum pumps. My 1958 Piper PA23-160 Apache (twin) older then me I swear ha ha, had wet vacuum pumps and aftermarket oil catchers on the vac pump exits. The engine? Nope. Oil coming out the wet vac pumps had no combustion products and nil water.

Doo-dads, F-arkle (Functional Sparkle), fun things to add, not too expensive, promise a lot, and they are hard for kit builder/owners to resist. They tend to be benign. I'm making a point of moisture and “nasty” acid stuff. The damage if any is nominal. My point is why, weight, cost, clutter, and questionable benefit. People like to customize and accessorize their car, motorcycle and plane. I get it. Fun. Looks cool and PFM. No proof of benefit needed.

I see used Airwolf’s (Walker) for sale. Many people put them on and are unhappy with them not delivering on claims. Beech Bonanza guy installed one due to high oil use on his old Continental, thinking it was a solution, not new rings, cylinders, valve guides. Many Airwolf's (made of steel) RUST OUT… Impressive? No.

Air Wolf has “positive pressure”. So? Does that mean all the many other passive A/O separators are inferior? They all return garbage back to the engine to some degree. Airwolf is tied to vacuum pump. Anyone running a vacuum pump anymore on newer planes Std or EAB Cert? Glass, solid state gyros made wet/dry vacuum pumps go the way of the buggy whips.

BTW: Race cars have oil collection due to racing league rules (track contamination) or to make more HP by evacuating the crank case even if oil consumption goes up.

Very simple:

Pro Air/Oil Separator – May keep belly cleaner? (I never saw a big difference as others also observe. NOTE Fill engine oil Max oil 5-6 qts. Put 8 qts blow off 2 qts quickly)
Con Air/Oil Separator – Adds weight, cost, clutter, and may cause faster oil contamination and/or increase average internal engine moisture and higher crank case pressures due to flow restriction.
Bottom: Line: Up to the builder/owner to decide if this extra engine accessory is valuable.


DanH;1670937Return I don't...except at cold start said:
or[/I] hot blowby contains oil droplets. Water in liquid phase is indeed separated and returned to the engine...but comes right back out, in vapor phase, when it reaches operating temperature. Without an engine return line, the short cold period is when your catch can collects water. .
Dan 1st class rationalization. You spend time, money to mount that polished beauty on your firewall. Pretty. You are invested emotionally. It is like the Placebo effect in medication. You believe it “works” it does. It is not 100% bad or good. What I know and have observed, seeing dozens of air/oil designs come and go, calming all kinds of things, bashing other brands, has shown me they are NOT A MUST HAVE (for me).

I am NOT saying all Air/Oil separators are bad, just not value added enough for me to install one and drain the snot back into the engine. Done that been there. Fool me once... I do think some designs are clearly problematic. The ones that can clog for one (like the pot scrubber one in EAA literature, and ASA also has pot scrubber inside in the "can" I recall). Net Negative or Positive for A/O separators? IMHO Nil benefit and possibly (slightly/potentially) detrimental. It's a solution for a problem that does not exist. Take it or leave it. OIL ON BELLY? Stop putting in 8qts in your engine... 5-6qts is all you need. Put more it blows out quickly.

I personally ran many-O-plenty air/oil separators. They do catch water vapor and oil and stuff. Water is oily and the oil has water and combustion products mixed in it. It really looks awful. Left to sit for days it does stratify but not completely. You could put this snot through a processes to separate all the good from bad components, but it takes lab equipment and centrifuge. A HOT metal “can” on the firewall can not do this, at least completely.

You admit two things. It is acidic to a degree. Second A/O Separator adds more moisture to engine after initial start up or taxi back when engine and engine bay are cool. This prevents drying of engine, at least for a period until engine and separator are HOT. Many people take short flights. What about winter and long taxi to and from ramp with cool engine and cool air/oil separator. You shut down after a long taxi back to hanger and send a slug of water into the engine before shutting down. It sits until next flight which could be days, weeks or months. You claim the A/O Sep is so hot water burns off? Nope it is cooling as soon as it leaves engine and mixes with cool air in hoses and can. All this is enough for me to avoid draining condensate back into engine from an air/oil separator.


My observations without air/oil separator was my oil consumption did not change and belly was not that dirty before or after. In fact that is a complaint of many people who install these things. They DO NOT WORK AS PROMISED. Of course the inventor/manufacture says you did not do it right. I reserve the right to be wrong. I see you have conceded my two main points, acidic to some degree and moisture can get regurgitated back into engine. I think we are done.
 
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So, I may have missed the bottom line here...is there any evidence that an air/oil separator causes any demonstrated harm to an airplane engine?
 
So, I may have missed the bottom line here...is there any evidence that an air/oil separator causes any demonstrated harm to an airplane engine?

depends who you listen to. It would appear the above poster thinks he has that evidence, but I am not seeing it. The billion dollar auto maker returns separator output back to the sump, but unfortunately that is not evidence either; though it does provide a strong precedence that is greater than an internet post IMHO. For me, I am going to trust that BMW did plenty of research on this issue and determined this was a safe practice. Poster above just states lots of disjointed particles of info, loosely assembled into a theory. Also, not evidence.

As far as I am concerned, there is NOTHING that makes it to the separator that didn't already exist in large quantities inside the engine. Therefore, it just makes no sense to not send it back from where it originated. Also not evidence; Just common sense. You are never going to convince me that a combustion engine is incapable of dealing with combustion byproducts. Kind of like building a gas tank out of material that is not capable of holding up in the presence of gasoline. If you are concerned about moisture and acids inside your engine, the answer is simple - don't ever run it. If you do run it, you have a 100% chance your crankcase will fill up with moisture and combustion byproducts. Sorry but that is just what they do.

and to say that aviation engines are loose and sloppy and auto engines are tight and clean is just foolish. EVERY combustion engine has blowby, PERIOD. There MUST be a gap in the rings and this gap allows the blowby. This is why EVERY combustion engine has a means to expel or suck excess gasses from the crankcase. The only difference is where they send the output and what they do with the remaining liquids, if separated.
 
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Right...stuff is being returned to the crankcase. Where's the evidence that that is causing engine problems?
 
Ah, sweet nostalgia...

I was around on the AeroElectric List at the turn of the century when alternator load dumps were the hot topic and the vitriol was ramping up (bad pun).

This thread reads almost like Bob Nuckolls tapped out and DanH stepped in to relieve him for a few rounds on a new topic. Serious popcorn shortage looming :p
 
Those Porsche 911 engineers got it wrong man! They just throw that AOS on there to add weight and a service item.

I think this thread has run it's course.
 
Two Blackstone reports, different owners, different airplanes...fuel and water content before and after the installation of separators with sump returns.

Before%20and%20After.jpg
 
I have the simple (and inexpensive) ACS air/oil separator on the firewall.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php
It drains to a ~12oz Brasso can and the breather hose exit extends down to the normal spot above the exhaust pipe.

The first photo is the ~6oz of oil that emptied out of the Brasso can today - about 80 hours of engine operation as I empty the can every other oil change.

The point being if not collected much of this oil that came out of the breather hose would have plated out on the bottom of the fuselage. From experience I can report that 6oz would make a huge mess. This is the reason I have an air/oil separator.

Side note - I’m adding one quart of oil every 30 hours or so - as in I’m not blowing oil out the breather line as you can tell from the lack of stain on the exhaust pipe. 374 hours on the engine.

Carl
No oil return to the engine
No crankcase vacuum valve stuff

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