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C-frame dimpler SIZE…

tireguy

Member
C-frame dimpler 20” vs 22’

Hello,
I bought my RV-10 kit last month. After seeing the lead time I went ahead and bought all four kits at the same time.
I’m a repeat offender as I completed my RV-8 back in 2004.. still flying great today.
So I dusted off my aircraft building tools and compared it to Vans recommended tool list.
My C-frame dimpler/rivet setter was from Avery tools and I measured the throat capacity of 20”..
Vans says I need a 22” C-frame.. for all aircraft except the RV-12.. I asked Vans if it mattered but couldn’t get a straight answer.. so my question is. Do I need a new C-frame.. has anyone built an RV 10 with the old Avery CFrame?
Also does anyone know we’re can buy a “ front end” for the manual dimpler? I’d like to fab my own frame..

Kind Regards.
Allan.
 
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I’d just build a new one from scratch first.. I just don’t want to build a new one if the old one will work.. I’ve got a good seven months before I see the tail kit.
 
Determine which kit parts are widest & require dimpling. If they are less than 40" wide, the 20" C Frame will do. If you got a skin that is wider than that, time to buy or borrow a wider tool for those few dimples...
 
I had about 10 holes in the middle of my lower skin that I couldn't rwach. Ended up countersinking and using NAS1097AD3 rivets for those.

Later I got the tool that holds a rivet squeezer set and one for the rivet gun and I could have used it.
 
Yes, I am too cheap to buy another C Frame & handle those few dimples differently.
Drill a 1/4 hole in the table, put the male dimple die in it, position the skin & carefully free hand the female dimple die using the shank from the C Frame. Light blows to control forming those few dimples.
 
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I used the same 20” turn of the century Avery C frame for my 7 and the 10.
I don’t recall any holes I couldn’t reach and my airframe is finished.
 
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