What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Cabin heater hoses

buz

Well Known Member
Would it be a bad idea to remove the heater hoses that go from the upper cowling to the heat muffs and to the cabin heat valve for the cockpit?

Reason I ask is it seems I get a trace amount of heat coming through the valve when closed and adding tiny but of heat to the cabin. Not good in the summer. I rarely ever use the heat and when I do I can only crack it it gets so toasty.

So will it overheat the muffs if no air is flowing through them? Or I could remove hoses from valve and dump the hot air downward through the cowling?

Thoughts?

Thanks
 
hose

I have the Custom Aircraft exhaust on my -10 and actually built in bypass valves for just the situation you describe. This exhaust pulls heat from two exhaust tubes instead of a muffler, and I ended up not needing the bypass valves...

If you have the Vetterman exhaust, the bypass may help by keeping the hot air which is always present, away from the firewall heat valves. You might try just ducting into the lower cowl to keep the excess heat away...
 
The company mentioned in that thread selling stainless heater valves no longer exists however Spruce sells it for the RV-10: Part# 08-06230
 
Could someone make a suggestion for an appropriate “Y” to split the scat tube coming off the back of the #5 cylinder baffling per Vic’s suggestion in the above link?

Thanks,
 
Can you remove your mufflers?

My vetterman exhaust mufflers are just held on by two large hose clamps. I just remove the muffler, scat, and clamps in the summer months. I called vetterman and that is what he suggested because as previously said if the muffler is on it needs air or it will damage the pipes.
 
Could someone make a suggestion for an appropriate “Y” to split the scat tube coming off the back of the #5 cylinder baffling per Vic’s suggestion in the above link?

Thanks,

ACS has 2" "Y" splitters. One of the choices has an expanded end, the other will fit inside the 2" scat tube. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/2diaytube.php

ACS also has 2" "tees" and a "Y" splitter and "tee" with a valve.

Vans only has a 2" 'Y' tube with the expanded end. https://shop.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/shop.cgi?ident=1625106941-384-60&browse=heatvent&product=air-routing-devices
 
I ended up using the front left air source and split it with a Y adapter and run that to both heat muffs and to both stainless valves. I blocked off the opening behind # 5 cylinder. I had way too much heat in the winter and blocking off the large opening helped with the CHTs during the summer. ACS has the Y adapters. 1200 hours and no issues
 
Would it be a bad idea to remove the heater hoses that go from the upper cowling to the heat muffs and to the cabin heat valve for the cockpit?

Reason I ask is it seems I get a trace amount of heat coming through the valve when closed and adding tiny but of heat to the cabin. Not good in the summer. I rarely ever use the heat and when I do I can only crack it it gets so toasty.

So will it overheat the muffs if no air is flowing through them? Or I could remove hoses from valve and dump the hot air downward through the cowling?

Thoughts?

Thanks

Another somewhat simpler thing you can do is make a rubber seal for the heat valve. Easy to make using high temp RTV. Put mold release, or just carnuba wax works - apply that to the flapper valve face (firewall side), then put a nice bead of RTV around the valve seat opening (ensure well cleaned). Shut the valve fully. Wipe away the excess RTV and let it cure. Clean it all up afterward and you should have a better seal.

That should help with the trace air flow through it and is easier than replacing it.

Although just removing the hose when heat isn’t needed is perfectly fine too.
 
Great info!

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I will have to figure out what will work best for me.
 
I was working on the heater boxes the other day and noticed the arm wasn't allowing the door to fully close. I took the two rivets out holding the door, removed a little material from the arm, added the sealant, riveted it back together. Hoping to be flying by spring...
 

Attachments

  • heat1.jpg
    heat1.jpg
    72.3 KB · Views: 67
  • heat2.jpg
    heat2.jpg
    102.1 KB · Views: 86
Back
Top