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  #1  
Old 05-14-2022, 10:51 AM
97swede 97swede is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 7
Default Help with primer issue!

Hello, first post, and I need some help! I’m having an issue getting self etching primer to stick to aluminum angle. I have done all the research on priming and decided that I would prime parts with rattle can primer for the most part. After a lot of research it seemed that most folks had good success with the SES self etching primer that Aircraft Spruce sells. After a couple of attempts I am still having issues. I have tried roughing the surface with a maroon scotch brite pad, no luck, so I then went to 80 grit paper and still couldn’t get adhesion. I think I have talked enough so please see attached photos and I would love to hear how you folks that have used this have had success. Thanks!
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Last edited by 97swede : 05-14-2022 at 10:54 AM.
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  #2  
Old 05-14-2022, 11:00 AM
skelrad skelrad is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 359
Default

Make sure you: 1) clean the metal to get rid of oils and 2) spray a thin tack coat first, as opposed to just spraying one thick coat.
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Brandon
RV-9A: Fuselage in progress
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  #3  
Old 05-14-2022, 11:00 AM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 5,721
Default Prep

Quote:
Originally Posted by 97swede View Post
Hello, first post, and I need some help! I’m having an issue getting self etching primer to stick to aluminum angle. I have done all the research on priming and decided that I would prime parts with rattle can primer for the most part. After a lot of research it seemed that most folks had good success with the SES self etching primer that Aircraft Spruce sells. After a couple of attempts I am still having issues. I have tried roughing the surface with a maroon scotch brite pad, no luck, so I then went to 80 grit paper and still couldn’t get adhesion. I think I have talked enough so please see attached photos and I would love to hear how you folks that have used this have had success. Thanks!
SEM is pretty good rattle can. Shake it well.
My guess would be aluminum oxide or other contaminate. It forms fairly quickly on bare aluminum. Try scuffing while washing with a powdered cleanser. Bon Ami is best. No bleach. Comet or Ajax work but make sure to rinse well to clear the bleach. Dry and prime as soon as possible.
80 is a bit aggressive. Maroon scotchbrite is fine.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
E-mail: wirejock at yahoo dot com
Builder Blog: http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #4  
Old 05-14-2022, 11:10 AM
97swede 97swede is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 7
Default

I used “Goof Off” to clean the part, I’m starting to think that may be part of the issue. Any recommendations on what to use for cleaning? Denatured Alcohol?
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  #5  
Old 05-14-2022, 11:13 AM
skelrad skelrad is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97swede View Post
I used “Goof Off” to clean the part, I’m starting to think that may be part of the issue. Any recommendations on what to use for cleaning? Denatured Alcohol?
I just use acetone. Cheap and easy. I wouldn't be surprised if the Goof Off leaves residue behind.
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RV-9A: Fuselage in progress
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  #6  
Old 05-14-2022, 11:50 AM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 5,721
Default Aluminum oxide

Quote:
Originally Posted by 97swede View Post
I used “Goof Off” to clean the part, I’m starting to think that may be part of the issue. Any recommendations on what to use for cleaning? Denatured Alcohol?
Ok. Back on my soapbox.
The enemy of adhesion is aluminum oxide. Similar to the red layer of rust that forms on steel. It's only a few microns thick.
It has to be removed and solvents won't remove it. Yes, you can clean with a solvent and call it good. It's your airplane. See me post above. Easy to remove while washing and no harmful chems.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
E-mail: wirejock at yahoo dot com
Builder Blog: http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #7  
Old 05-14-2022, 01:10 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 5,492
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I use lacquer thinner, then the maroon Scotchbrite, then either lacquer thinner or isopropyl alcohol, at least 91%. Clean it enough so that there's no trace of anything left on your rag or paper towel. You'll need to make several passes with different pieces.

I get excellent results with SEM.

Dave
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  #8  
Old 05-14-2022, 01:17 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest, USA
Posts: 2,530
Default Just me

I tried rattle can primer but was never happy with the adhesion. I bit the bullet and went with Sherwin Williams P60G2. I thought it would be a hassle to mix, spray, and clean up. Turns out it is really easy to use. The hardest part is putting on the respirator ( buy a good 3M one from Home Depot).

My opinion is that rattle can is good for a small quick repairs, but it wont take the building abuse I subject my parts to. It seems others have good success with rattle can primer, but the stuff I was able to buy in Southern California were really worthless, in my opinion.

I hope you have better luck.
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WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2022, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
98% done, 2% left to go
To Go: wing mounting, engine baffles, wing tips, move to airport
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  #9  
Old 05-14-2022, 01:29 PM
lipper03 lipper03 is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Fulshear, TX
Posts: 126
Default ezcoat

I've been using ezcoat, maroon pad, prekote clean with maroon pad (or bonami like mentioned), rinse, dry, prime, light coat. I think the ezcoat went on better then the self etch can. I tested a bunch, and have used ezcoat since. Did my vert stab and rudder so far with it. You can check pictures on my EAA page in my signature.

I'd say there is no way goo gone is residue free, I believe that's main part of the issue you are seeing.
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Last edited by lipper03 : 05-14-2022 at 01:33 PM.
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  #10  
Old 05-14-2022, 07:53 PM
97swede 97swede is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 7
Default

Thanks everybody for the help. A good cleaning and light coats worked perfectly. I used two light coats of self etching primer then top coated with EZ Coat. The stiffeners look great and are well protected now!
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RV-10 under construction
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