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  #31  
Old 10-13-2022, 01:10 PM
pitts flyer's Avatar
pitts flyer pitts flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 74
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The plans appear to be similar to the WagAero tow buddy... https://www.wagaero.com/ground-suppo...d-tow-bar.html. I have a tow buddy and modified the connection of the tow arms to the main frame to have a pivot. It was originally made so that the arms are fixed, just like the tug plans posted in this thread. The pivot is robust so that it allows the arms to turn from side to side (yaw), but not up or down. This avoids having to lift the machine to make turns. It really works well in the tow mode--that is pulling the plane, but one has to be much more careful when in the push mode, though once you get the hang of it, it works in well in that mode too, to be able to make turns without having to lift the machine. I use it for a taildragger. All of the above FWIW....
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Dave M
RV-4 finished and sold
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  #32  
Old 10-14-2022, 06:11 AM
cccjbr6 cccjbr6 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 196
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Dave, would you post some pictures of the pivot?
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Chris Kimble
Birmingham Alabama
RV-6A Bluebird- Beautifully built by Bob Axsom, maintained by Vic and Nick Syracuse, powered by Thunderbolt
$10/month donation gratefully made (worth every penny and painless)
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  #33  
Old 10-17-2022, 12:24 PM
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pitts flyer pitts flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 74
Default tug pivot pics

Yes, after I return in the US, which will be in about 2 weeks.
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RV-4 finished and sold
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  #34  
Old 10-30-2022, 06:59 PM
RVDan RVDan is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 990
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2 electrical questions were asked. I left the unused controller connectors on. There are several for bike functions, like brakes and brake lights. You could remove them and cap and stow the wires by insulating the ends with heat shrink.

I did not show the wire sizes between the controller and the batteries. The wire size is AWG 14. Same with the jumper between batteries and return wire. All of the power wires for the motor are AWG14. The motor can draw 15A when stalled.

Iíll have to add this info to the drawing.

BTW, I added a drawing to show the hardware stackup for the linear actuator mounting.
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Dan Morris
Frederick, MD
PA28-140 sold
Hph 304CZ sold
RV6 built and sold
N199EC RV6A flying
Retired Aerospace Engineer and A&P/IA
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  #35  
Old 11-04-2022, 02:43 AM
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pitts flyer pitts flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 74
Default Pivoting arms

As I promised now that I am back in the States, here are pictures of my Wag Aero Tow Buddy, modified so that the arms pivot in one axis. Two Oilite bearings were purchased from McMaster Carr and with shims, lightly press fit into the square tubing receiver which used to allow height adjustment of the arms assembly. I use my exclusively with a taildragger, so fixing the height with the pivot was not a problem. The nice thing about the Tow Buddy is the arms can be fixed high or low. On the arms assembly the square tube shaft/socket was cut off and a solid round shaft was welded on in its place. When assembled, a pre-load is set, much like the nosewheel of a Van's aircraft, so that the arms will pivot when pushed, but otherwise will not freely rotate.

Here is a LINK to the photos.

As noted before, this setup makes turning and changing directions with the tug much easier, no lifting the tug, though in the push mode, it takes a bit of practice to get the turning done without starting to jackknife--kinda like learning to fly a taildragger...😃
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RV-4 finished and sold
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  #36  
Old 11-04-2022, 02:52 AM
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pitts flyer pitts flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 74
Default Tug

I should add too that another modification I made to the Tow Buddy was an electric clutch on the drive wheel. Clutch was bought on Ebay. This essentially disengages the motor drive and allows the tug to be free wheeled to and from the airplane. Originally, the motor was directly connected through the chain reductions to the drive wheel, and one always had to use the motor to move the machine, which is also pretty slow. Now, only when the forward or reverse buttons are pressed, the clutch engages and the motor and chain drive will drive the wheel. Another handy feature IMO..
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  #37  
Old 11-05-2022, 11:29 AM
mfcummings mfcummings is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Wellsboro, PA
Posts: 36
Default RV10 Tug

Quote:
Originally Posted by RVDan View Post
Edit- updated with links to files.

Aging and an injury started to make it harder for either my partner or I to move the airplane into the hangar and we decided to look into tugs. Commercially available tugs were just a bit more money than we were up for spending, and I decided to look at making my own.

After watching Youtube videos of what other people did, I found someone who would share what major parts they used. I was concerned that If I chose a motor, gearbox, controller and wheel, it either wouldn't have enough torque or wouldn't be controllable. Having someone provide some insight into the key parts was very helpful. Also, I have gained access to a TIG machine and wanted to refresh my welding skills.

The tug is designed specifically for the rV-6A. I tried it on the RV-9A and it will work with different lugs to pick up the tow bar points. A fairly minor change. It will probably work on a -7A but I haven't looked at a -7A to know for sure.

Besides the basic requirement for it to help me move the airplane, I also wanted to minimize the space the tug took up in the hangar. The result was a unit that was more compact than most and that stores under the airplane wing.

I am open sourcing the information and will make details available to anyone building their own. Depending on how many folks ask I may just email the info to them, or I may make another "how to" video and link the files there.

The tug is quite easy to handle both while maneuvering it for hook up and while towing. It has plenty of power, and at top speed moves at a good fast walking pace. It isn't going to win any races, but that is not what it is for. In some cases, tire traction needs to be increased by applying some weight to the tug handlebar. Maybe 10-20 lbs. tops. The tug itself is fairly light- I can pick it up to my workbench, but heavy enough to get the job done.

https://youtu.be/qyoJmfmVC4g The link to google drive folder for the parts list and drawings is there, and I am putting it here- https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...HV?usp=sharing

I had a significant number of requests for the info, and I have decided to do a tug build video in a couple of weeks.

Thanks Dan for the Tug plans and parts list!!

I finished my tug build last week, based on your plans and parts list. I used it several times and it works great. I did make some modifications based on my own needs. I donít have electric at my hanger so relocated the motor forward to allow for more room in the rear for the battery compartment. The two batteries are in a tray with a quick disconnect so as to easily remove and take home for charging. I also enlarged the sprocket to an 84 to allow for more torque/power. I am using this tug on an RV10. If I was to build it again I might consider using a larger tire? As the tire will sometimes spin loosing traction, at that point I apply enough down pressure until we start moving again. One other reasons for the tug build is so I can pull the plane over to the fuel pumps without getting in and starting the plane up and taxiing. The pumps are about 200 foot away and it works great at pulling/pushing to and from. Attached are a couple photos of the completed tug.

Mike C.

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  #38  
Old 11-05-2022, 05:53 PM
RVDan RVDan is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 990
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That looks great. Thanks for posting your results here. I am curious what mods you made to accommodate the RV 10 nose wheel.
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Dan Morris
Frederick, MD
PA28-140 sold
Hph 304CZ sold
RV6 built and sold
N199EC RV6A flying
Retired Aerospace Engineer and A&P/IA
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