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  #11  
Old 06-19-2022, 07:51 AM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 5,374
Default P60G2

Quote:
Originally Posted by sc_pilot View Post
Thank you all for the recommendations. Iíll keep hunting down the P60G2 but will explore some of the other options listed above. Of everything, priming has me worked up the most. Iím not very familiar with paints and havenít touched a spray gun before. Iím sure Iíll learn but would like to keep the learning expense and wasted materials to a minimum.

And Iím sure when you get in the flow of building, not many people want to take a break to prep and prime parts.😂
I'm no expert but I can spray P60G2, epoxy and urethanes. Feel free to reach out. I've helped a few.
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Estes Park, CO
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (3,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit done. Working FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #12  
Old 06-19-2022, 08:56 AM
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sc_pilot sc_pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Posts: 13
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
I'm no expert but I can spray P60G2, epoxy and urethanes. Feel free to reach out. I've helped a few.
I’ve been reading through the forums and seen a common prep recommendation with your posts. I believe grey scotchbrite scrub with Bon Ami cleanser and look for a hydrophilic surface when washing. Also like the idea of the gorilla tape test to see what sticks. I’ll do a bunch of samples while I wait for my kit and see what works the best.

I also considered the Stewart’s system but I don’t know. Seems the more I read through the primer wars, any primer is better than no primer and is really just a matter of if you can make it adhere properly. Maybe that’s an overstatement. I still am tempted in trying the SEM and Napa rattle cans just to see.

I see all these debates on primer but I don’t see many threads on “I primed with bad surface prep and/or rattle cans, and my plane corroded/broke apart”. If I saw those threads… I think the answer would be clear on what’s the minimum for “acceptable” priming.

As an aside, I’ve also decided on not leaving the blue film on the outer surface. As cool as the blue grid pattern looks, that same rv12 I looked at, you could see a higher degree of oxidation/corrosion/“stuff” forming under the edges of the film. Seems like leaving the surface bare would be easier to see anything that starts to form and address as necessary.

Thanks,
Jacob
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Last edited by sc_pilot : 06-19-2022 at 09:01 AM.
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  #13  
Old 06-19-2022, 10:16 AM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 5,374
Default Primer

Yea. I guess I step up on that soap box often!

Agree. Any primer is better than none if your plane lives in a coastal environment. I use NAPA 7220 on nutplates. SEM is a good product too. If you want simple, consider SEM on fay surfaces. My Mentor, Dave Paule uses it and Stewart as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sc_pilot View Post
Iíve been reading through the forums and seen a common prep recommendation with your posts. I believe grey scotchbrite scrub with Bon Ami cleanser and look for a hydrophilic surface when washing. Also like the idea of the gorilla tape test to see what sticks. Iíll do a bunch of samples while I wait for my kit and see what works the best.

I also considered the Stewartís system but I donít know. Seems the more I read through the primer wars, any primer is better than no primer and is really just a matter of if you can make it adhere properly. Maybe thatís an overstatement. I still am tempted in trying the SEM and Napa rattle cans just to see.

I see all these debates on primer but I donít see many threads on ďI primed with bad surface prep and/or rattle cans, and my plane corroded/broke apartĒ. If I saw those threadsÖ I think the answer would be clear on whatís the minimum for ďacceptableĒ priming.

As an aside, Iíve also decided on not leaving the blue film on the outer surface. As cool as the blue grid pattern looks, that same rv12 I looked at, you could see a higher degree of oxidation/corrosion/ďstuffĒ forming under the edges of the film. Seems like leaving the surface bare would be easier to see anything that starts to form and address as necessary.

Thanks,
Jacob
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (3,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit done. Working FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #14  
Old 06-20-2022, 06:58 AM
Girraf Girraf is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 232
Default

I ran into difficulty finding P60G2 a few months ago (even posted about it on VAF). I called around to a few SW stores across my region, expanding my search radius to about 100 miles. I too ran across one person who said they weren't making it anymore but I seriously doubt that claim. I eventually found some on the shelf at a store near Baltimore and my back-up option in Virginia which had to order it, did receive it about a week after my initial call.

Don't give up until you've called every SW within your driving threshold.
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  #15  
Old 06-20-2022, 04:02 PM
BryanStearns BryanStearns is offline
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 16
Default Found more P60G2 :-)

When I started building, I got a gallon each of P60G2 primer & R7K44 reducer from my local (Portland, OR) Sherwin Williams "Commercial Paint Store" to try out; I knew I'd need another gallon of reducer since I've had the best result mixing them 1:2 (instead of the recommended 1:1.5)...

... so I was bummed when I saw in this thread that they were discontinued. Sure enough, my Commercial store didn't have it, but said that the S-W "Product Finishes Facility" (5640 NE Skyport Way, Portland, OR; (503) 249-0222) seemed to have it in stock. (This facility's inventory doesn't show up on the S-W website.)

I called and they had it, so I ended up buying another gallon of primer (to make sure I'd have enough for my build), and three of reducer (one to go with the old primer, two for the new one). The guy there said he didn't think they'd discontinued it, and they have plenty in stock. Dunno if they ship it.

Last edited by BryanStearns : 06-20-2022 at 10:42 PM.
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