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  #11  
Old 06-19-2022, 07:51 AM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 5,490
Default P60G2

Quote:
Originally Posted by sc_pilot View Post
Thank you all for the recommendations. I’ll keep hunting down the P60G2 but will explore some of the other options listed above. Of everything, priming has me worked up the most. I’m not very familiar with paints and haven’t touched a spray gun before. I’m sure I’ll learn but would like to keep the learning expense and wasted materials to a minimum.

And I’m sure when you get in the flow of building, not many people want to take a break to prep and prime parts.😂
I'm no expert but I can spray P60G2, epoxy and urethanes. Feel free to reach out. I've helped a few.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
E-mail: wirejock at yahoo dot com
Builder Blog: http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #12  
Old 06-19-2022, 08:56 AM
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sc_pilot sc_pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Posts: 16
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
I'm no expert but I can spray P60G2, epoxy and urethanes. Feel free to reach out. I've helped a few.
I’ve been reading through the forums and seen a common prep recommendation with your posts. I believe grey scotchbrite scrub with Bon Ami cleanser and look for a hydrophilic surface when washing. Also like the idea of the gorilla tape test to see what sticks. I’ll do a bunch of samples while I wait for my kit and see what works the best.

I also considered the Stewart’s system but I don’t know. Seems the more I read through the primer wars, any primer is better than no primer and is really just a matter of if you can make it adhere properly. Maybe that’s an overstatement. I still am tempted in trying the SEM and Napa rattle cans just to see.

I see all these debates on primer but I don’t see many threads on “I primed with bad surface prep and/or rattle cans, and my plane corroded/broke apart”. If I saw those threads… I think the answer would be clear on what’s the minimum for “acceptable” priming.

As an aside, I’ve also decided on not leaving the blue film on the outer surface. As cool as the blue grid pattern looks, that same rv12 I looked at, you could see a higher degree of oxidation/corrosion/“stuff” forming under the edges of the film. Seems like leaving the surface bare would be easier to see anything that starts to form and address as necessary.

Thanks,
Jacob
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Last edited by sc_pilot : 06-19-2022 at 09:01 AM.
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  #13  
Old 06-19-2022, 10:16 AM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 5,490
Default Primer

Yea. I guess I step up on that soap box often!

Agree. Any primer is better than none if your plane lives in a coastal environment. I use NAPA 7220 on nutplates. SEM is a good product too. If you want simple, consider SEM on fay surfaces. My Mentor, Dave Paule uses it and Stewart as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sc_pilot View Post
I’ve been reading through the forums and seen a common prep recommendation with your posts. I believe grey scotchbrite scrub with Bon Ami cleanser and look for a hydrophilic surface when washing. Also like the idea of the gorilla tape test to see what sticks. I’ll do a bunch of samples while I wait for my kit and see what works the best.

I also considered the Stewart’s system but I don’t know. Seems the more I read through the primer wars, any primer is better than no primer and is really just a matter of if you can make it adhere properly. Maybe that’s an overstatement. I still am tempted in trying the SEM and Napa rattle cans just to see.

I see all these debates on primer but I don’t see many threads on “I primed with bad surface prep and/or rattle cans, and my plane corroded/broke apart”. If I saw those threads… I think the answer would be clear on what’s the minimum for “acceptable” priming.

As an aside, I’ve also decided on not leaving the blue film on the outer surface. As cool as the blue grid pattern looks, that same rv12 I looked at, you could see a higher degree of oxidation/corrosion/“stuff” forming under the edges of the film. Seems like leaving the surface bare would be easier to see anything that starts to form and address as necessary.

Thanks,
Jacob
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
E-mail: wirejock at yahoo dot com
Builder Blog: http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #14  
Old 06-20-2022, 06:58 AM
Girraf Girraf is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 238
Default

I ran into difficulty finding P60G2 a few months ago (even posted about it on VAF). I called around to a few SW stores across my region, expanding my search radius to about 100 miles. I too ran across one person who said they weren't making it anymore but I seriously doubt that claim. I eventually found some on the shelf at a store near Baltimore and my back-up option in Virginia which had to order it, did receive it about a week after my initial call.

Don't give up until you've called every SW within your driving threshold.
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  #15  
Old 06-20-2022, 04:02 PM
BryanStearns BryanStearns is offline
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 19
Default Found more P60G2 :-)

When I started building, I got a gallon each of P60G2 primer & R7K44 reducer from my local (Portland, OR) Sherwin Williams "Commercial Paint Store" to try out; I knew I'd need another gallon of reducer since I've had the best result mixing them 1:2 (instead of the recommended 1:1.5)...

... so I was bummed when I saw in this thread that they were discontinued. Sure enough, my Commercial store didn't have it, but said that the S-W "Product Finishes Facility" (5640 NE Skyport Way, Portland, OR; (503) 249-0222) seemed to have it in stock. (This facility's inventory doesn't show up on the S-W website.)

I called and they had it, so I ended up buying another gallon of primer (to make sure I'd have enough for my build), and three of reducer (one to go with the old primer, two for the new one). The guy there said he didn't think they'd discontinued it, and they have plenty in stock. Dunno if they ship it.

Last edited by BryanStearns : 06-20-2022 at 10:42 PM.
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  #16  
Old 08-23-2022, 10:39 AM
deputychris deputychris is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Central Colorado
Posts: 4
Default

I need to get better about posting on here! I read like crazy.

I am also in Colorado and discovered the only place that carries it is the "Product Finish Facility" which is in Denver. He checked and nowhere in Colorado has it except for them. I called the local commercial and auto and they had no idea what I was talking about. The guy in Denver knew exactly what I was talking about, and when I told him what I was doing he said, "Yup that's what it's for". They were sold out but he had more coming in next week, so he took my info and is going to hold it for me. So it is around and does exist. Good luck.
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  #17  
Old 08-23-2022, 11:10 PM
Thierry A Thierry A is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Casa Grande, AZ
Posts: 46
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Same here in AZ I get it from the Sherwin Williams "Product Finishes Facility".
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  #18  
Old 09-17-2022, 07:29 PM
Cessnadog Cessnadog is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Rochester MN
Posts: 1
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Funny thing, I live in MN and made a few calls around the twin cities and found a SW Store in one of the suburbs that had 16 gallon of the primer in stock, and (I didn’t ask how much) the reducer as well. I asked about a price and was told, “likely about 3x what you expect”. I told him I was guessing $150 a gallon and he said that is about right. He quoted $99 a gallon for the primer and $66 for the reducer.

I made the drive a few days later to pick it up. Once they wrote the invoice the lady said “That will be $368”…. Whoa, fortunately I had the original guy send me an account application so I knew who he was. Turns out he was from a different SW facility in the same suburb. Quick trek to the other store and after I opened an account I paid about $150 total for a gallon of each.

Might be worth a few phone calls.

Tim
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