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Pin Crimpers

Freemasm

Well Known Member
I haven't gotten into the meat of the electrical yet but little things are popping up already e.g. pitot heat lines, wing to fuse disconnect.

Which pin crimpers will be needed? I don't know enough details to ask:

Sub D
DTC
DT
Molex

Does one tool do more than one type? Brands to avoid. Sorry for the vague questions but I need to start somewhere and get some stuff ordered.

Thanks
 
Daniels...

I bought an AF8 and an AFM8, used. They are kind of pricey but they did everything I needed to do. I used Deutsch connectors on almost everything and the AF8M did all the Dsubs...
 
I also used Stein's lower priced crimper tool. I never used the extra cost high density die when I built my G3X panel. Dynon and the others may be different.
 
D-sub

I am a great believer In D-sub connectors. The pins are not difficult to crimp like others are, and the crimpers are not expensive, like Molex and others.
 
I am a great believer In D-sub connectors. The pins are not difficult to crimp like others are, and the crimpers are not expensive, like Molex and others.

What about crimping the bigger power input and ground pins for D-sub? Surely these need a different crimper die? The bigger power and ground pins are like $2 each from Garmin!?!?!
 
Power/ground connectors

D-sub pins aren’t used for main power and ground - those connectors are larger than D-sub pins, unless they are at a signal level. For power/ground, I use PIDG connectors, crimped on the wire. Again, the crimper is not expensive and does a great job.
 
Deutsch DTM connectors are great for the majority of aircraft wiring tasks. For larger gauge wire you can go with Deutsch DT connectors (DT is larger than DTM where the "M" stands for miniature). The DT are designed for 14 to 20 gauge wire. For larger gauges yet the DTP series is available (P stands for Power). Deutsch pins crimp exactly like D-Subs with the advantage they are held by weather-proof sealed quick release connectors. And the best thing yet they do no take a special tool to de-pin like D-subs. After removing the orange wedgelock from the connector with a set of needle nose pliers a small flat blade screwdriver releases a pin from its position. No fuss, bent tool, cursing or damage. As far as tools since the pins crimp just like D-subs the same tools can be used. Note: Deutsch pins come in "open barrel" and "closed barrel". You will want to stick to the higher quality closed barrel pins and sockets. The open barrel type are the more industrial bent tab crimp design like Molex and take different tools to crimp. So stick to the closed barrel. There are some economical Deutsch tool kits available and so I use one of those for Deutsch and leave my Daniels AFM8 to avionic connector pins only. The attached photo shows what the Deutsch compatible took kit I use looks like. It came with an open-barrel tool that I ignore as I only use the two different closed barrel indent crimpers.
 

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D-sub pins aren’t used for main power and ground - those connectors are larger than D-sub pins, unless they are at a signal level. For power/ground, I use PIDG connectors, crimped on the wire. Again, the crimper is not expensive and does a great job.

Gee, that is a really strange comment. Every device that has a D-sub connector on the back of it gets its power and ground through that connector. Garmin boxes have special longer, heavier pins that accept the larger gauge wire, then fit into the D-sub body.
 
The Trig TY91 uses two power input pins because peak transmit power requirements can exceed the capacity of a single pin. Both have to be connected along with two grounds.

Jack
 
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